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Casings - RH - fruiting?


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34 replies to this topic

#21 FlyingSausage

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 03:11 AM

My first grow is going very nicely with one of the large casings showing pins. I expect the other two large casings to pin within the next couple of days. With the 3 jars that stalled while incubating, I made 1 DE Casing, and 1 smaller casing. Not long ago, I ordered 7 more syringes of various strains and I innoculated 24 1/2 Pint Jars via PF Tek. The 4 Syringes I used are Golden Teacher, Blue Meanie, Ecquador, and Amazon. I also have 5 WBS jars going with B+ for experimentation purposes, and all are showing some signs of Myc. growth.
I will have to build another fruiting chamber as mine is getting kind of cramped. :)
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Pins! :o
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I hope these casings show pins soon
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My Incubator :D
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Comments//Suggestions are welcome!
Peace~

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#22 dukex

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 04:40 AM

Welcome aboard FlyingSausage

Peace...

#23 insight

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 09:57 PM

I know that a casing layer retains the moisture for a casing (as well as the substrate retaining moisture). My casings are in larges Rubbermaids, 2 casings per tub. Well, I need to expand and its a pain in the ass to fan 10 casings more than once a day. My though is to run a few casings on a shelf in open air. Being moisture is held beneath the casing layer, is RH a factor with casings?

#24 chill

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 10:49 PM

My understanding is that casings like abour 70% RH. I've never heard of anyone having casings in the open air. You could do what the LB guys do and put a plastic bag loosely over top to hod in the moisture.

#25 taoistshredder

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 11:35 PM

As casings casing layers exist to retain moisture, the relative humidity doesn't need to be as high as cakes, which have more mycellium exposed to air and will lose more moisture to the atmosphere. 70-80% is good, but I've had them in higher and lower environments, though they obviously don't do as well in lower humidity levels. In open air, my guess is it will dry out, but I don't know - open air, in my basement in the summer, they'd be fine. In my house, ever, no way.

#26 nomoreusmc

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 11:43 PM

Don't do it man!! I tryed this once but it dryed out and then contamed!

#27 cutty

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 09:43 AM

I agree with TS 70-80 is a good RH for casings.If your RH is low I've read that you can lay a piece of wax paper loosely on top of the casing to help keep the RH up.

#28 Lazlo

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 11:13 AM

I just leave my lids on a little crooked to provide some air exchange. I fan and mist once in the morning and once in the evening. No contam issues from air exchange problems.

#29 yoguru

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 02:25 PM

This is my first post here so be gentle... I am working with some Equadors and some mystery prints I had from a while back. I used to do a lot of PF cakes and now that im getting back into it, I wanted to get into casings.

Sooo, I incubate my casings at about 85 degrees or so and after a day, I patch any low spots that are showing through. Then I wait another few days until i get some patches of myc. and then fruit.

Then after a few days in the fruiting chamber the myc seems to slow down, or even go away it seems.

My fruiting chamber is a 5 tier shelf unit enclosed in plastic with an ultrasonic humidifier that is turned on 6 times a day. Humidity gets to a low of about 80%.

Any help would be much appreciated.

yoguru

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#30 yoguru

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 02:30 PM

I guess I didn't really give that much info. The substrates that I'm using are whole brown rice, cracked corn, and wbs. The casing is a verm/peat mixture. The casing that is shown in the pic is a whole rice substrate. This is about the amount of myc i see when i put the casing into the fruiting chamber. So any input on the casing being colonized enough to fruit?

thanks again

yoguru

#31 agentstone

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 06:14 PM

Hrmm.... I dont want to attempt to answer this but do this.. post more info. It will help the experts here better help you.
-Info on subtrate depth, casing depth, teks used for sterilization of both, moisture content of substrate, ect.... steps you took.
Also, ask yourself if you trust your hygrometer. Misinformation from your intruments can lead to some serious confusion and frustration.
Good luck.
:reb:
-Stone

#32 spacecowboy

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 07:33 PM

Hey ya,

Welcome to Mycotopia :)

Here is is a good link for background info on casings:

http://mycotopia.net...html?1107364516

Read through the threads and find out what works best for your situation.

#33 yoguru

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 08:48 PM

Thanks for the help guys, I'm pretty sure after doing some more research my moisture level of the casings is too low. I increased my timer intervals and misted the casings a little.

#34 Guest_Peter Cottontail_*

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 09:13 PM

I also use a mini-greenhouse for fruiting. I've found if you run the humidifier too much, you'll get water buildup on the floor. 80% is a good humidity to shoot for in the greenhouse to avoid problems. You can lay a sheet of wax paper over the top of your casing layer to increase humidity right in the spot where you need it. Personally, when I apply the casing layer, I cover tightly with aluminum foil and let sit on a shelf for only 48 hours, then uncover and place in fruiting conditions. I rarely even see surface mycelium this way. The fruits form below the surface of the casing layer, leaving the casing still able to absorb moisture when you mist or water.
RR

#35 yoguru

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Posted 19 November 2005 - 09:48 PM

thanks rodger, that gives me reasurance that im not putting them in the FC to soon. I'll play around with the wax paper on some of my casings for a little experimentation.




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