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Vovin's DMT extraction...

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#1 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 15 March 2005 - 08:02 PM

Borrowed from Vovin and credit to him is given... He only requests it is free and that he is emailed, so he can give updates as he improves the Tek... I have it saved in a .htm file, though because I saved the (private) webpage, anyone know how to upload it or make it so I can upload it? Maybe I could send it to Zen, if he ever has a chance... Whatever, I have it and will post it if you all know a way...

Edited by wharfrat, 19 June 2016 - 04:12 PM.

#2 rocketman



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 10:46 AM

im definitely interested, i have no idea about the uploading tho.....keep me in mind bro

#3 llama



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 11:00 AM

What date is on your version? I think I've got the latest backed up, but perhaps not. If you've got something new, I'd be interested.

#4 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 11:33 AM

I'm interested in reading it too..

Maybe you could just copy and paste the text? If you want you can email it to me and maybe I'll fiddle around with posting it.

#5 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 16 March 2005 - 01:18 PM

It's the updated tek, llama... Pretty similar just a few revisions and made a bit easier to understand, possibly...

#6 skullfarmer


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Posted 16 March 2005 - 02:34 PM

vovins tek is great! i got an invitation to his tek site last year while i was hanging out at dmtw. im not sure if its the updated version but it is by far the best tek i've seen.i would send you guys to dmtw to ask vovin for an invitation to his site ,but with all the hacking going on over there i dont think its safe :-( . he did give premission to pass on invitations, just not to have direct links. if you guys are xtra nice i might hook ya'll up with invitations. peace

#7 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 07:46 PM

Ok, special thanks to Vovin for the wonderful tek and to PissyBee for sending me the file. I'll include the pictures for each section at the bottom of each post.

Vovin's Unabridged Extraction guide
Version 1.2
September -2004
It is the responsibility of the viewer to discern weither using or posessing any type of DMT is legal in his or her country. This site is intended for informational pourposes only. This website is to be used for legal, scientific research, we do not condone the illegal production of, trafficking in, or use of scheduled substances in any way shape or form. Neither Deep Thought nor it's owner condones the use or posession of illegal substances. Information on this site is a summary of data gathered from forums, websites, and other resources. We cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information provided here. Laws are complex and constantly changing. It is the responsibility of the viewer to discern if the materials are legal in his state and country.

Almost all of the teks I have found were either old and not up to date. Or horribly complicated and thus difficult for the first timer to understand, at least they were for me. Also I have learned that a picture is worth a thousand words and this tek has plenty so I think it will be much easier to follow if you know what the materials look like at each stage of the process.

In this guide I will be showing a complete concise way to extract DMT from Mimosa Hostilis Root bark. I will not be going over different materials or methods that can be used, there are plenty of resources already on that.

It is my will to keep this as a very simple step by step process and eliminate and confusion along the way. I will not be going over the scientific and chemical explanations of the extraction process. This can get a little confusing and is not really needed to do a extraction. This is a very detailed guide and most of the information that has been added here is from experiments and processes that others have refined over the past few years. To make things easier I have labeled the 4 Pyrex containers A,B,C, +D. I recommend you do the same to eliminate and confusion you may have while trying to follow along.

#8 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 07:47 PM

This is the material needed to do a top notch extraction of DMT. Although it is possible to improvise a lot. Do so at your own risk.

The chemicals I use on this Tek has been researched by many in DMT world and has been found to produce the best results and are obtainable by the average joe. You can use other chemicals in place of many of these. For the sake of simplicity I will not go into this in this Tek. The chemicals that I have listed are purported to give the best results, I highly recommend you stick to them if you can. Many chemicals leave residue. The ones I use in this Tek leave little to no residue.

Materials, References, and Suppliers: ( Detailed Materials and Reference List )

Glass Blender
Digital pH meter
Seperatory Funnel - 500 ml
Seperatory Funnel Stand
3 Pyrex 500 ML flasks - Marked A,B,+C
Buchner Funnel and Pump -500ml - Marked D
Filter Papers
Glass Casserole Dish
Turkey Baster

Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark
VM&P Naphtha
Red Devil brand lye crystals
Distilled water
Hydrochloric Acid
Sodium Carbonate

I recommend keeping a detailed log of your process including amounts of liquids and pH balances. This will make it much easier to troubleshoot the process if something goes wrong. Also keep all of the liquids and materials stored until after you have completed the extraction. If you have made a mistake it is possible in certain circumstances to go back to these materials and redo a process to get the DMT out.

#9 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 07:50 PM

Step 1: Breaking Down the Root

Mimosa Hostilis
Quantity Used:50 Grams

It is absolutely essential that you break down the root to as fine material as possible. The result of this process will directly effect the amount of DMT you will extract.

One of the best way's I have found to break down the root is to cut it into small pieces with a pair of scissors. Then freeze the root for 4 hours in a freezer. This makes the root very hard and brittle. Place the root into a blender. I highly recommend a Glass blender instead of a plastic. The coarseness of the root will scar the plastic blender a great deal and you will have a small amount of very fine plastic in your bark.

Once you have sufficiently powdered your bark you will end up with 2 materials. One the powder, the second will be a tuft of very fine fibers. Don't handle or disturb the material any more than you have to. The powder gets into the air easily thus reducing the material. You will be using the powder and the fibrous material in your extraction's.

Photo 1 & 2: Mimosa as it was shipped to me. AA battery has been placed in the image to give a sense of size.


th_mimosa1.jpg th_mimosa2.jpg

Photo 3: Mimosa before it was put into the blender notice that I have cut it into small pieces to make it easier for the blender to handle.



Photo 4: After several minutes in the blender. Notice that there is powder and fiber. This is normal.



Edited by Sidestreet, 10 September 2016 - 03:41 PM.

#10 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 07:53 PM

Step 2: Extraction

Mimosa Hostilis
Quantity Used:50 Grams-Powdered
Distilled Water:600ml Adjusted to a pH of 4 using Hydrochloric Acid - 3 batches

In this next step you will be removing the DMT molecule from the bark. To do this you will create a acidic solution and add it to the root bark. It is very important that you do not overheat the bark material. Heat will break down the DMT and cause a loss in yield.

First place around 600 ml of distilled water in a glass or stainless steel cooker (NO ALUMINUM). Once the water has begun to simmer place a couple drops of hydrochloric acid into the pot. It only takes a few drops to get the pH down to 4. Don't overdo it.

Check the pH. If it is too high then add more acid. If it is too low add more water. Your goal is to have a solution with pH 4. If you allow the water to simmer for a long period of time recheck the pH level before adding it to the root bark.

Place the ground up mimosa from step 1 into jar A. Slowly add the acidified water solution to Jar A using a turkey baster. You want it to be enough water to completely cover the bark material but you don't want too much water because it will make latter steps more difficult. You probably won't use all 600 ml. I used between 300 ml for each extraction. But it's good to have the extra water on hand just in case.

Shake the contents vigorously and allow this material to soak for 45 minutes. Occasionally stir the material. While it is soaking make another batch of acidified water the same way as mention before. Have it warm and read to use. To keep the first flask, Jar A warm use a second pot to boil up some regular water. Place the flask into the pot. This is called a heat bath. It will keep a constant warm temperature for a long while. You may need to re heat the water after awhile. Don't place the heat bath on the stove with the Jar A still inside remove it and reheat the water then place it back into the bath.

After 45 minutes strain the material in Jar A into Jar D (Jar D is the jar attached to the Buchner Filter). Place a filter cloth in the buchner filter head and use the hand pump to cause a vacuum in the jar. This will force the liquid down into the jar and the plant material will be caught in the filter. Try to make sure you get as much of the liquid out of the bark as possible. Once the bark has been strained sufficiently place it immediately into Jar B. Add the newly acidified water to jar B. Allow jar B to soak for 45 minutes.

As Jar B soaks prepare a third batch of acidified water same as above. Once Jar B has soaked for 45 minutes place the contents of it on the filter of Jar D and filter the liquid out. Place the bar material in Jar C and add the newly acidified water to is same as you have done before. Allow it to soak for 45 minutes.

After 45 minutes use the buchner filter set up on Jar D to filter the contents of Jar C. The resulting liquid for all 3 extraction's can now be added into one jar so place them all into jar C now. Now to make sure we got rid of all of the plant material we are going to place a round filter in the buchner filter (D) and filter this liquid again. The result will be your bark solution. Slowly pour the contents of Jar C into the head of the filter. Do not put allot of the liquid into the funnel at once. You will most likely need to swap filters several times as the pores of the filter becomes clogged with sediment. Once you are done filtering place the liquid back into Jar C.

Photo 1:The powder is placed into the first flask

Photo 2: Once the Distilled water is heated and adjusted to a pH of 4 we add just enough of it to cover the bark material in the flask.

Photo 3: The flask is then placed in a pot of hot water. This will keep it warm For the duration of the soak. Notice I have placed a piece of cling wrap on the top of the flask. This ensures no water will evaporate and will prevent accidental spilling. I have poked a small hole in the wrap to allow ventilation. Remove the flask every few minutes and shake. The stove is not on when I have the flask in the pot. I remove the flask and reheat the water in the pot when it cools down.

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#11 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 07:56 PM

Step 3: Reducing and Decanting

Acidic liquid

Place Jar C into the refrigerator to sit overnight. This is commonly call fridge decanting. In the morning you will see a layer of sludge on the bottom of your container. This is sediment that was so fine it passed through your filters in the previous step. But now it has settled and clumped together. Set up the buchner filter once again and run your liquid thru it. Since the sediment is all clumped together it will now catch in the filter much easier. Usually after doing this step I get a extrememly clear liquid that I can easily see thru. If you don't and you have the time try decanting in the firdge again and re filtering.

Now that you have the acidic liquid decanted you want to reduce it down to a workable size. This step may not be neccisary if you have the equipment large enough to handle the amount of liquid you have x 2 ( the basifying procedure will make the volume increase roughly times 2). You will need to place all of the liquid in a glass casserole dish and place it in the oven and turn it to it's lowest setting. Warm the solution. Again keep it warm do not overheat it. This will be a very slow process and will most likely take a hour or two. You should be trying to wind up with around 500 ml of solution. Check the solution every 15 minutes to make sure it is not getting too hot.

If you get a film forming over your solution you most likely reduced it down too much add a little distilled water to the solution and remove it from the oven.

Once you have reduced the liquid down to around 500 ml you can place it into Jar A. I have found the safest way to transfer the solution is with the turkey baster Just suck it from the casserole dish and put it into the jar. If your try to pour the liquid even with a funnel it can sometimes spill.

Photo 3:After you have filtered the material. You will need to place the extracted water into the fridge to sit overnight. You can't see it well in this picture but at the bottom there is a thin film of sludge. This is tiny particles that made it through the filter.

Photo 1&2: After removing the sludge place the liquid into a glass baking dish and place it in the oven set on the lowest setting. After it has reduced a decent amount you can put it back into a flask and measure how much liquid you have. I was able to reduce down to just a little over 500 ml.

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#12 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:03 PM

Step 4: Defatting

Extracted liquid
Naphtha 100 ml X 3

Some people choose not to defat their extraction's. Usually this is the reason why you get a oily result instead of crystals. To get pure crystals you have to defat. You will be doing 3 defats. The process is the same each time.

Place your extraction into the seperatory funnel. Add 100 ml of warm naphtha. DO NOT warm the naphtha directly it is very flammable. The best way to do this is put it into a flask and place that flask into hot water for a few minutes, a heat bath.

Once the naphtha is added you will need to stir the mixture. You can do this by turning the repertory funnel end over end making sure that the cork at the top is in control and will not fall out. I usually tape it on rather thoroughly, keep in mind you will need to allow the air to escape every couple minutes. What I usually do is turn the funnel upside down and open the valve at the bottom for a couple seconds to vent. Do not shake the seperatory funnel. If you do you will trap air in the naphtha and it will be very difficult to get a separation. Turn it end over end for around 5 minutes.

After you have sufficiently mixed the contents sit it in a stand and let it sit still until there is a distinct separation between the naphtha and the extract. This could take up to several hours sometimes. To speed up the process try running hot water like in a shower or sink if it's big enough, over your seperatory funnel and allow the mixture to sit for a few more minutes. This should get the separation to work. Make sure none of the water gets into the seperatory funnel. You will also need to remove the cork and allow air to escape from the container. I usually put a piece of cling wrap on the top with a couple small holes punched in it. This allows venting without evaporation.

Once the materials have separated place a flask at the bottom of the funnel and open the valve. You will need to close the valve quickly when it reaches the naptha. You should now have your extraction in a flask and the naphtha in the funnel. You can discard the naphtha and begin the process again. You will need to do this 3 times. Be sure to clean your funnel well between defats.

After you have finished the third defat you are ready to continue on to the next step.

Photo 1: A picture of the seperatory funnel with naphtha just added. I haven't mixed the liquids yet.

Photo 2: One of the first things I do is tape down the cap of the funnel so that I don't have to worry about it falling off as I tip it to stir the liquids together. I prefer to tip end over end instead of shaking because it creates a whole lot less bubbles.

Photo 3: After mixing the liquids for a few minutes you can see that there are quite a few bubbles in the naphtha. Running the funnel under hot water for a few minutes will help get rid of these pesky little troublemakers. If your seperatory funnel won't fit into the sink use the shower.

Photo 4:
Once the liquids have separated sufficiently I will open the bottom valve of the seperatory funnel and drain out the extract, cutting it off right when it reaches the naphtha.

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#13 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:07 PM

Step 5: Basifying

Defatted extraction
Distilled Water
Lye crystals

You will need to prepare a base solution by taking 200 ml of warm distilled water and adding lye to it. Lye is a very volatile material so be very careful with it. Add very small amounts of lye to the water and stir it well. Test the pH often. You are aiming for a pH of 12-13. Once you have the pH at the desired level. Bring out your extraction and place it into the seperatory funnel. You will now be adding this lye water to your extraction. Do so in small quantities. Very slowly and while stirring the extraction. I usually hold the funnel in one hand rotating it so as to create a whirlpool effect in the funnel and use the other hand to add the base.

You will notice that the liquid will become gray in color and will eventually turn black, this is normal. Check the pH of your extraction. You are trying to reach a pH level of 12. Keep adding the lye water to the extraction until you reach this pH, but stir well to ensure a accurate measurement.

At some point you will probably need to split your liquid because the volume has gotten too big and you cannot add any more base solution. It's totally fine to do this if you need to. This is what I had to do between steps 4 and 5 in the pictures.

Once you have gotten a pH level of 12-12.5 you will need to shake the container by turning end over end. Every couple of seconds stop and release the air that has built up.

The extraction will now look like a thick black tarlike liquid. Double-check the pH level of your liquid and make sure the pH level is over 12. You have now completed the basifying procedure.

Photos 1-7: Here are some images of the basifying procedure as the process carries on. You can easily see where the liquid turns from dark red to gray than to a brownish black.

Photo 8: After adding the base solution to your extract you will have quite a bit of liquid. It over doubled my extraction size which was previously only 550 ml. Now it takes up 2 flasks.

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#14 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:08 PM

Step 6: Extracting the DMT

Basified liquid
Naphtha 100 ml X3 (6 if you had to split your liquid in half during basification)

The time has now come to extract the DMT from the solution. You will be doing this step 3 times to make sure you have gotten all of the DMT you can. Keep your fingers crossed your in the home stretch now.

Place 100 ml of warm naphtha into the seperatory funnel. Tape the cap down and mix the liquids by turning the funnel end over end. Release the bottom valve every few seconds to let off any built up vapor. You need to make sure the liquids are thoroughly mixed and that the naphtha has come in contact with all of the extract. At this point the DMT is making a move from the extraction to the naphtha.

After stirring well allow the funnel to separate until you can see 2 distinct layers. On top will be the naphtha that now contains the DMT. On the bottom will be your basified extract. Usually it takes some time before the liquids separate completely and a definite line can be seen between the two. You can help this process along by doing a hot bath. Place the funnel into the sink or shower and run hot water over it for about 10 minutes. Then allow the funnel to sit for awhile and you should get a good separation. If not reheat the funnel again and perform the same procedure.

You will now need to drain off the extraction. One very important thing here is to get all of the naphtha you can without getting any of the extract. If you get the black extract in the naphtha then this will end up in your final product and this is not good. I usually cut the valve off a little late in the first two separations just to be safe. Any naphtha that is left in the extraction's on the first 2 will carry over into the third and thus there is no worry of loss. The third separation is where you will need to be very careful to get all the naphtha as possible without getting any of the extraction.

Once you have drained off the extraction place another flask at the bottom of the funnel and drain off the naphtha. This is one of the few times I do not recommend cleaning your funnel between processes. Some naphtha will stick inside the funnel and this time it has DMT in it so try to keep it. Now re insert the extract and add a fresh batch of naphtha and repeat the process.

Once you have all 3 of the naphtha liquids extracted from the process let it sit and see if any of the black extraction has made it into your product. If it has then you need to get it out.

You are now ready to do a wash.

Photo 1&2: After adding the naphtha to the basified solution and mixing I ran hot water over the funnel for several minutes. This really helps get the separation. After that I let it set for about 15 minutes. Look how sharp the line between the naphtha and the basified solution is. There is still a few big bubbles but they can be popped with a copper wire easily.

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#15 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:10 PM

Step 7: Washing

Naphtha from step 6
Distilled Water
Sodium Carbonate

This is a somewhat new process that is not found in many of the older tek's. This process will try to remove as many of the foreign chemicals from the naphtha solution as possible. Especially the lye that was added in a previous step. The goal here is to leave only the DMT in the naphtha so that when you evaporate you end up with pure crystals.

Begin by taking about 50 ml of Distilled water and placing it into a flask and adding sodium carbonate to it. Just add a pinch to the water. It doesn't take much. You will only be using this mixture for the first wash. Do not use it for the second and third washes.

A little dab will do yah here, add only a small amount of the water/sodium carbonate solution to your naphtha. If you have 300 ml of naphtha then you want to put around 25 ml of the sodium carbonated water. Mix the 2 together and then place them in a seperatory funnel. Shake the hell out of it this is the only mixing step where the liquids separate almost immediately so no worries about too much agitation. Separate the water from the naphtha and discard the water.

For the second and third washes you want to use only distilled water nothing should be added. 25 ml per wash is sufficient. Perform the same procedure as above. You should not leave the water in the naphtha for too long. This means no sitting for hours letting it 'soak' you need to get it in and out.

Photo 1:After a healthy shaking the water and the naphtha almost immediately separate. Only if all separations were this easy. The water is on the bottom of the funnel.

Photo 2: After 3 washes the naphtha is clear as glass.

Attached Thumbnails

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#16 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:11 PM

Step 8-A: Evaporation

Naphtha from step 7

Note: There are 2 way's to get the DMT out of your solvent. This step will have a higher yield but the other will result in a purer product as well as enable you to resue the naptha. The other process is below.

This is the final stage. Pour the naphtha that you have collected into a glass baking dish. You will now need to let this stuff evaporate. I do not recommend attempting to speed along the process by having a fan blow over the dish. This will cause dust and small insects to get caught in the naphtha.

Patience is a virtue. You need to take your time on this step and let the naphtha evaporate naturally. Lately I have placed a cloth T-shirt over the baking dish. Tape the sides down so that it doesn't fall into the naphtha. This doesn't cause much of a issue with the evaporation as the cotton is porous, and it guarantees that there will be no dust or bugs in your final material. I have heard some people taping a paper towel over the dish to keep out this stuff.

When looking for a place to evaporate remember to keep it away from any and all electrical devices such as motors. These items give off sparks which can ignite the fumes. And of course keep the naphtha out of reach of open flames as well.

The bad thing about evaporating the naphtha is that it smells. So if you are trying to do this in a house or apartment where you don't want others to know you are in for a challenge.

Depending on the volume of naphtha and the size of you evaporation dish it can take anywhere from a few day to 2 weeks for the naphtha to evaporate. Once the naphtha has completely evaporated you will need to take a razor blade and scrape all of the crystals off of the baking dish. Get em all now.

If you are impatient you can speed up the process by using a fan and a large rubbermain storage container. The containers are usually 5-10 dollars at wallmart. People use them to store clothes usually. Cut 2 holes in each end and cover the holes with a thin cloth. Place the fan and the evap dish in the container and close the lid. This will keep out any foreign particles and still speed up the evaporation. This can be placed outside so the fumes can dissipate easily.

Photo 1: Now comes the hard part, Waiting. I have placed the naphtha in the casserole dish to evaporate. Keep your fingers crossed.

Attached Thumbnails

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#17 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:16 PM

Step 8-B: Freeze Seperation

The following process was discaovered by 23. The process is relatively simple to perform and basically results in a recrystalization process which is known to yield a very pure final product.

The only big issue here is that you need to use as little naptha as possible during your 7th step. When crystallizing there needs to be a degree of saturation in the solvent or supersaturation. If there is more solvent than product not all the DMT will fall out. So the key is to use as little solvent as possible 100ml or less per extract, maybe the last extract use 50ml. So during step 7 make sure your chemicals are very warm this will increase their ability to absorb DMT. Cold solvent won't absorb as much as warm solvent.

After you crystallize out of the solvent and filter out the crystals put the solvent back into the fridge to extract a second yield. After placing a flask with the spent solvent in the freezer that there are more crystals in there now. So do this a few times till there no more crystals forming in the solvent. Maybe if you just leave it in the freezer for a few days all the crystals will solidify out, but always double check. You can reuse this solvent for 3 or more extractions. This will save you money as well as at a later time you can evap it off to get any of the remaining DMT although it will most likely be less pure than the original.

As you can see in step 1 you need to place all of the solvent in a airtight container. This is essential if you place it in the freezer open ice will form and as it melts it will get into your naptha.

After 24 hours in the freezer you can remove the container. Then use a metal object to break the crystals fromt he side of the contianer. You must keep the fluid cold as possible. If it begins to warm place it back into the freezer. If it get's warm then it will redissolve the DMT.

Once you have filtered all of the solvent you can scrape the DMT off the filter paper. If you want you can allow the paper to dry this makes the crystals easier to remove.

Place the solvent back into the freezer for 24 hours and see if any more crystals will fall out. If so repeact the seperation process.

After the seperation store the naptha in a container. You can use this at a later time for your next extraction.

Photo 1: After the solvent is removed from the freezer. Pour the solvent off quickly now or it will redissolve the DMT as it warms.

Photo 2:You can see that the DMT has fallen out of the solvent.

Photo 3:Take a small metal item and break the crystals loose from the edge of the container.

Photo 4:Now you will use a buchner filter to seperate the DMT from the solvent. If the liquid has begun to warm too much. Place it back into the freezer. You want it to stay cold so the DMT does not redisolve.

Photo 5:Place the solvent into the filter and perform the seperation.

Photo 6: Scrape the crystals from the filter paper.

Photo 7: All Done

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#18 I_am_me



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Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:21 PM

Step 9: Solvent Wash

This is something I have just recently developed. Even if you follow the tek above perfectly a small amount of basified solution will make it into your final result. This basified solution contains LYE which is extremely harsh to smoke. By doing this solvent wash after you have scrapped up the crystals you can virtually eliminate all of the lye in your final result as well as many other contaminants.

Once you have scrapped up your result from step 8 place it in a small glass container. In another container place a small amount of Naptha and run hot water over it. You want the naptha to be warm to the touch.

Once this is done add about 50 ml of naptha to the flask holding the crystals. If this is not enough to dissolve all of the crystals then add a little more. The goal here is to put just enough naptha into the flask to dissolve the DMT but not too much because you want it to evap quickly. Stir the flask by swirling it around. Do not place anything in the flask as you will disturb the sediment that should build up on the bottom. If the crystals do not want to dissolve then place the flask in a pot of hot water ( heat bath ). This will make the basified junk gummy and it will loose form and sink to the bottom adhering to the bottom of the flask.

Allow the flask to sit for one minute. Then pour off the naptha. Once you have gotten all of the naptha add about 10 ml more to the flask and swirl it around. This is to make sure you have gotten all of the spice. You can then add this 10 ml to the other 50 ml making sure that no sediment from the bottom makes it over. If you feel you still may have DMT in the flask by all means add more naptha and attempt to dissolve it. There's no rule to how many times you can add naptha the sediment after being in the heat bath should be stuck to the bottom quite well. So use as much naptha as you feel is neccissary.

You can now evap off the naptha and re collect your crystals. They should be much cleaner and show a more defined crystaline structure.

If there is still junk you can do a second wash. You should loose very little DMT on each wash so do as many as you need to get a good final result.

Photo 1: I placed the DMT into a 50 ml flask to dissolve. When I first acquired this DMT it was very white but over the period of 10 day's it has taken a yellowish tint.

Photo 2&3: As you can see after the wash there is a layer of crud that has formed on the bottom of the flask. This is base solution that was caught up in the naptha from step 8 and also some dust from the evap process.

Photo 4:Here is a shot after evap. It's not easy to see in this pic but instead of white crystals they have a much more transparent quality. They also do not turn to powder when scrapped.

Attached Thumbnails

  • th_evap1.jpg
  • th_crud2.jpg
  • th_dmt2.jpg
  • th_crud.jpg

#19 I_am_me



  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 2,228 posts

Posted 16 March 2005 - 08:24 PM

Final Notes

What more can I do? I have shown you a simple and concise way to extract DMT from mimosa hostilis. If you follow this tek to the letter I feel confident that you also will be able to have a final product that is very pure.

Since my goal has been to show all who cared to learn a way of extracting relatively pure DMT and I have accomplished this goal in my tek here there is little more that I can do on the extraction process. After all what more could you want than pure DMT to expereince? That being said I doubt that there will be many updates to this tek in the future. It's time for me to move on to other aspects of Deep Thought.

For those who are interested in recrystalization I have left my experiments on this process up.

Now allot of people have a issue with smoking DMT. I have designed a apparatus to do this effectively and the materials can be bought all around town. You can find the design here: DMT Smoking Device.It makes smoking DMT much easier than anything I have found anywhere else.

Also I suggest you checkout the tips section before trying any extraction.


I do not have the recrystalization or the tips section but this is a great tek.

Sorry all of the files are thumbnail size but most are clear enough to get an idea of whats going on.

Again, thanks to Vovin for the great tek and thanks to PB for helping get it here.


#20 phalanx



  • Expired Member
  • 609 posts

Posted 16 March 2005 - 10:01 PM

Wow, what a load of grief!

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