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Cheap Flowhood build


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#1 crazy1

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 08:15 AM

Here is a hood I made that worked quite well before I was able to get a real one.
Here is a picture of a filter hood I made to keep the transfers in a clean air environment.

http://mycotopia.net...=1&d=1180796758

This was done for about $45. Here is a list of the materials:
1) 2'x4' piece of plywood
1) inline duct fan 8" diameter and moves aprox 500 cfm
1) 16"x20" HEPA furnace filter.
1) tube of silicone
some polyurethane
some 1 1/4" screws
a cord with a plug end for the fan

I first ripped the plywood into 1 2"x4' strip, then the wood was 22"x48". Then ripped 4 8"x22" pieces out of that and kept the rest for the back. I then clear coated all the pieces with a clear coat on all sides as well as the front and back of each piece. This keeps any bacterias or molds from growing on the wood. I then traced the outline of the fan on the center of the back and cut it out with a jigsaw. I then placed the fan into the hole and sealed it with silicone. Now cut the 8" strips into lengths to make the sides and top. Don't forget to leave enough to overlap the ends. Now put the box together with the screws and silicone all the corners on the inside. This will keep any contaminants from sneaking in. Now remember that 2"x4' strip you cut in the first step? Use this to frame the outside perimeter of the box front, this will hold the filter in place when the fan is on. Now wire the fan into the cord with a plug end on it. You are now ready to do all your transfers in a clean airstream. To relace the filter just remove 2 of the frame pieces and remove/replace the filter. I didn't silcone the frame pieces on the top and one side.
I start the fan about 1hr before I do my transfers.

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#2 susu

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 08:57 AM

that dose not look like a 99.99% efficensy filter which u will need fore sterile work

#3 crazy1

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 09:03 AM

No it isn't a 99.99% filter. But the cost of one of those is a bit more than most can afford. This set up did really well for me.
I just thought I'd pass it on to possibly help others.
It cut may contam rate by over 50%.
And I did say a "clean" air flow not sterile.

#4 Freaky

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 09:35 AM

Its a good hood for clean flow. And no, you didn't claim it to be sterile.

Thanks for sharing this.

I wonder if you used 2 or 3 of the filters if that would help filter even better. That fan seems to have enough cfm's pushing through to handle 3 filters or so.

Either way, its nice to see it works for you and allows you to do agar :)

#5 crazy1

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 09:38 AM

freaky, I thought about adding a prefilter to the back side of the fan. but didn't get around to it.

#6 Hippie3

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 07:42 PM

i dunno about that actually being
laminar flow ?

#7 TheJackal

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 07:41 PM

Inspired by crazy1's DYI flow hood (http://mycotopia.net...ad.php?p=393838) decided to build this today:

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#8 yerbaadam

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 08:19 PM

For all thoSe planniNg a proppEr lamionAr syStem wiTh A 99.99 filTer:
The tyPe of inliNe fiLTer thAt is uSed in thIs thRead makEs a loVely PRE filTer to caTch thE biG stuFF and take a little load off The reAl hepa. That way You can ReplAce the $10 filter, not The $100 filtEr.
The blOwer, typicAlly sqUirel caGe styLe, Must BE MatChed By thEse VAriAbles:

The areA of thE fiLTer faCe multiplied by the desirEd cubiC fEet PEr minUte (cfm is usually between 100 and 150 foR a Smooth LaminAr floW) AT the Given stATic PRessuRe of thE filTer (anD pRe filter).

Blowers generally have a Data shEet associAted wiTh thEm, wiCh can tEll you hoW manY cfm thE bloWer will foRce AT WHAT S.P.



Anyhoo, in rEgarDs to tHe builD in thIS thRead, I say, If it Works, it WOrKS. Wish i diDn't haVe to Go aNd spEnd Hard cAsH on My lAminar, bUt hEy, thAt is Also whAt workS for mE. Glad Yer liL' sysTem doEs the Trick for you.

Do you G2G in froNt of it wiTH n0 proBlem?

>YEr bUDlEy
NascAr DenRite duDley wuDley do0Dley wo0Dley

#9 TheJackal

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 08:23 PM

freaky, I thought about adding a prefilter to the back side of the fan. but didn't get around to it.


My build above has a Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV) 9 pre-filter and MERV 12 main filter, driven by twin 8" 500 cfm inline duct fans. 50% percent contam reduction is better than no contam reduction at all!

Thanks, crazy1!

Cheers!

Jackal

#10 crazy1

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 08:52 PM

Yeah Hippie I guess I should've just called it a clean air filter.
And yes it did fine for agar and g2g transfers. But the flow hood I have now the filter replacement is about $600, so there is a pre-filter on that one.

Your build looks great Jackal :headbang: Hell of a good job Bro. I'm sure you'll be happy with the results of you labor.

#11 TheJackal

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 09:49 PM

Yeah Hippie I guess I should've just called it a clean air filter.
And yes it did fine for agar and g2g transfers. But the flow hood I have now the filter replacement is about $600, so there is a pre-filter on that one.

Your build looks great Jackal :headbang: Hell of a good job Bro. I'm sure you'll be happy with the results of you labor.


Thanks, I hope so!

Proposed procedure will be to (1) make sure there are no drafts, (2) oust the room and let settle for 15 mins, (3) shower and wear clean clothes with mask and gloves (4) turn on flow hood and let run for one hour, (5) spray and wipe down working area in front of flow hood with 70% rubbing alcohol, (6) transfer work materials to clean working area, (7) spray and wipe down work materials and gloves with 70% rubbing alcohol, and (8) do work quickly.

Any comments or suggestions on proposed procedure?

#12 Hippie3

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 09:57 PM

2] turn on ionizer/s
;)

#13 TheJackal

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:02 PM

2] turn on ionizer/s
;)


How would you incorporate the ionizer into the mix? Put it next to flow hood, and pointed towards work area?

#14 TheJackal

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:09 PM

Below is the fan curve and MERV info. Can anyone figure out what the CFM output of my set up ((MERV) 9 pre-filter and MERV 12 main filter, driven by twin 8" 500 cfm inline duct fans) would be?

#15 TheJackal

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:11 PM

MERV and fan info below.

Ended up removing pre-filters, as they were making the output CFM way low. Now there is a good breeze, even a couple two feet behind flow hood.

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#16 susu

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 06:47 AM

600$ for the filter
crazy1 this must be huge
a 610mm*610mm 99,99% is around 100€

#17 crazy1

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 06:52 AM

Trying to do the math here. Mine is 2feet by 4feet and 5 inches thick. should last about 7 yrs before replacing. It's the style they use in class "A" clean rooms. Filters out particles down to 0.03 microns if I'm not mistaken.

#18 Hippie3

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 09:00 AM

How would you incorporate the ionizer into the mix? Put it next to flow hood, and pointed towards work area?

i set mine on top the 'hood facing me

#19 TVCasualty

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 03:26 PM

Trying to do the math here. Mine is 2feet by 4feet and 5 inches thick. should last about 7 yrs before replacing. It's the style they use in class "A" clean rooms. Filters out particles down to 0.03 microns if I'm not mistaken.


You can work side-by-side with an assistant on that monster! That would be sweet to have that much space to work in! I suppose the $600 price tag means you bought the filter and a blower and built the box yourself, or is there a source of pre-made hoods that big for that price?

Using a prefilter and keeping the room clean in general will give you more than 7 years, too. I have a 12"X24" that is 10 years old and the front ribbing is full of dents, but my contam rates have not changed...yet.

#20 TVCasualty

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 03:43 PM

Proposed procedure will be to (1) make sure there are no drafts, (2) oust the room and let settle for 15 mins, (3) shower and wear clean clothes with mask and gloves (4) turn on flow hood and let run for one hour, (5) spray and wipe down working area in front of flow hood with 70% rubbing alcohol, (6) transfer work materials to clean working area, (7) spray and wipe down work materials and gloves with 70% rubbing alcohol, and (8) do work quickly.
Any comments or suggestions on proposed procedure?


(1.5) Mop the walls, windows, ceiling, and floor w/ a bleach solution (not so strong your eyes water, or use a respirator)

(2) Turn on ionizer/filter (3) close up the room while prepping other stuff (4)continue w/ number 3 above.

Letting it settle then turning on a filter to blow everything around again is unneeded; after bleach mopping let the chlorine fumes circulate and the air get filtered instead of settling to the ground only to be kicked up again later. I also haven't used Lysol or Oust or anything like that in years, and I put some alcohol on a paper towel and wipe down surfaces, not spray them, so I minimize the fumes.

Too much cleaning and disinfecting can be bad for your health, and a fire danger. When I clean in preparation for sterile work, I do the bleach mopping with a strong, eye-watering solution (while wearing a respirator and goggles.. it's a small room and doesn't take long) right over the latex wall paint that was there when I bought the place. I then turn on my true-HEPA flow hood and leave the room. I do this the night before I work, so by morning the fumes are all gone, the humidity is back to normal (working is more comfortable), and the room's air has been impacted on the HEPA for about 6-8 hours. It's clean in there, until I come back in!

One more little detail that is important: I went to Lowe's and bought one of the remnant pieces of linoleum (they have a bunch of 9 foot X 9 foot pieces rolled up and priced as remnants) for $40 and just unrolled it on my hardwood floor so the mopping and any spills all end up on the linoleum. This is also a good, cheap solution if forced to use a carpeted room, which is the worst place to try sterile culture besides the kitchen.




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