Holy Cow [ coir/eco straw pellets/dung ]
Posted 15 July 2007 - 03:31 PM
look it up on google. its like pet bedding. supposedly its made of all natural materials. its basically compressed straw pellets with a binder. the binder i believe is similar to something like the cellulose they use for those clear papers. the information is on the bag. its called eco straw litter. its not used for ponds. more for rabbits cages and pet bedding. basically its like cat litter where it absorbs the urine and expands. this stuff is quite a bitch to get the binder out. the best way to do this is by taking pantyhose and going to your local laundromat and running a cycle with the pellets in the pantyhose without any detergents just plain water. otherwise i wouldn't do something like that in the home washer if you know what i mean. you can go the slow route that i do. it sux, its more work, but sometimes you just don't want to get off yer ass.
what i do is put the pellets in boiling water for about 10 minutes. this ends up somewhat freeing the binder from the pellets. the pellets will expand and you get sort of a straw mud. you then strain this with a metal fine strainer and keep rinsing it with tap water until it almost makes a muddy substance. after this drains a while you then lay it out on a tray and slowly at like 200 degrees bake it and turn it every 15 minutes. by turning, i mean to pick some chunks up and move them around so that some of the smaller pieces get dried out. you will notice it dries out. then you have to lay it out on trays or something flat and fan dry it. there are tons of other ways to do this but this i have found to be the most pain in the ass way. so if you want to do it this way, have fun. or you can simply rinse it out in a washer. but i don't usually want to leave and i don't want to ruin the washer so i do like giant amounts of it at a time. you will find that this is a great addition to any substrate with a dung base. you basically substitute this for your straw. its almost a strawdust after you are done with it. it mixes in perfectly with a substrate made from dung.. a good mix to me might be something like this. (50/50 dung/verm)75% of mix plus 15% additional coco fiber, 10-15% strawdust and you can add anything you need for filler material. more verm, coco fiber. whatever. mix it up all nice and fluffy and then i put in turkey tins in the oven at 200 for 4 hours. i then let it cool overnight. then spawn the next morning or day. each turkey tin stuffed to the brim will fill one 60 liter iris tub that will cover it about 2-3" sub depth. this produces roughly the yield above.
2nd flush: dy=106 grams
pet bed info
Eco-Straw uses special technology to compress high fiber wheat straw into a pellet that is twice as absorbent as newspaper based litter and will absorb 300 percent it's weight in moisture.
When wet, Eco-Straw pellets expand and separate, allowing the wet areas to be scooped on a daily basis. This eliminates waste and the litter will last longer than traditional wood shavings.
Natural fiber from the wheat grass plant is not only safe if consumed by your pet, but can be beneficial to the digestive system of rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas and other plant eating animals.
Eco-Straw is your ideal choice for a safe, dust free litter or bedding for your pet. It is toilet flushable and beneficial to the soil when composted. Heat treatment of the pellets guarantees that Eco-Straw will be mite and insect free.
Eco- Straw is cleaner and more hygienic for your pet than wood shavings. Due to the unique characteristics of Eco-Straw the urine will migrate below the surface area thereby moving moisture away from your pet.
Easier to clean means less time cleaning cages and more time with your pet. Eco-Straw stays in the cage and litter pan and is not easily kicked or thrown out by active pets.
Eco-Straw will not track or stick to coats of animals with long hair, thus making the owner and pet more content and happy.
***the only addition to this would be that its a good medium for growing hallucinogenic mushrooms.
one other thing with the fae about the chamber and all. who has time to fan 7 times a day? i don't. i hardly have time for once a day. its not exactly necessary if you learn how to work the saran wrap. if you feel too much condensation is on the saran wrap. open the corners for a few hours. or tilt the box. its really easy. once you figure out how to regulate the environment. its self sustaining. you don't have to do any type of additional maintenance or anything. just tilt the box once a week in the first flush and after that. you really don't need to tilt it anymore. the third flush has pinned and should be fully mature in two days.
Posted 17 July 2007 - 05:31 PM
sorry for the double post above. internet was having problems.
Posted 17 July 2007 - 06:31 PM
used to used those stove pellets that are compressed wood pellets that they selve for stove ovens up north for heating.
The wood pellets are also very cheap here, many guys build up an oven with these pellets. Nice to hear that they work too. I was thinking to try them but never did it.
Posted 18 July 2007 - 10:46 PM
3rd flush minus a few bigguns.
Posted 18 July 2007 - 10:48 PM
Posted 20 July 2007 - 08:43 PM
Posted 20 July 2007 - 08:45 PM
Posted 25 July 2007 - 09:19 AM
Posted 28 July 2007 - 02:22 PM
thanks doesntmatter for suggesting this press n seal wrap. its awesome. i can't believe i hadn't even heard of it yet. good stuff. clings to anything. it is a bit thicker but if it does create more condensation then i can open up the corners rather easily to regulate rh. 4 new bins birthed using this press n seal wrap. made birthing rather easy without the tape.
mermaidia, i recently picked up a bag of jungle bed from your suggestion. my only problem was i like the compressed bricks because essentially you are paying for less substrate. if you check petsmart, petco, walmart they have lizard bedding substrate. its compressed coir bricks for around 5$ each. they cost 10$ for 3 of them and that is about the price i paid at local hydro stores. so its actually a good marketable price. one of those bricks will expand to at list 11 liters it says. so you get more coir for your buck. i picked up 9 bricks of it. good stuff. thanks for the suggestion.
Posted 28 July 2007 - 03:43 PM
Man, that stuff looks nice and healthy EYA. :thumbup:
Posted 28 July 2007 - 04:18 PM
if so you can open the corners slightly and it allows open air chamber. it will keep in most of the moisture. i have a small fan running in the room. so that probably pushes a little air in there if the corners are open. lately i haven't been opening them at all. originally the sides were opened when too much condensation would buildup but now it isn't necessary if the bin is tilted slightly at 45 degrees one day after pinning starts. initially this is where i get a big amount of moisture buildup.
Posted 28 July 2007 - 05:31 PM
Posted 28 July 2007 - 05:51 PM
I have 4 holes drilled up into the handles of each one of my large bins. As far up as I could go into the handles so bugs have a hard time comming across them. Air exchange is perfect. My thoughts were to do just like you are after watering the casing and just to let them rip until harvest. Everything worked fine except the damn generic press and seal.
Posted 29 July 2007 - 09:08 AM
Posted 29 July 2007 - 09:50 AM
Posted 29 July 2007 - 10:30 AM
pins. heres something cool. i took the entire top press n seal off and it stayed together like a lid. then i did some sub maintenance and put it right back on. it fit back nice and snug. very cool stuff! it actually kept the shape of the lid!:headbang:
yeah in jethros tek he uses all his boxes at a 45 degree angle at all times. my problem was that i didn't have that space with these larger bins. he keeps saran wrap airtight on top of his boxes and tilts them. what this does is allow the moisture buildup to run across the top of the casing or pinning level and actually in turn seems to work like a constant dunk or watering of the casing layer. it doesn't pool. when i use jethros box tek i had great results. i did have problems with the boxes i didn't tilt. and the space was rather jammed at the time. so now im finding out since my method is a bit different bc the condensation drips underneath the black plastic, that i can get away with tilting only at precise times. so instead of say fanning like some people do, i tilt the box. and instead of fanning, i open up the corners slightly.
i can see the condensation the press n seal building up. the only downfall so far is that you can't see through it. with saran wrap you can see through it and you don't need to open the plastic to see what is going on. i always like being able to look at it in case a contam starts or it allows me to see if there is moisture buildup on the pinning level. Now i have to open the corners slighly to see what is going on. lazlo, yeah this glad press n seal is awesome. it sticks to itself, i would fork out the 3$ more for it. just in case. otherwise you basically have saran wrap. most of the time with saran wrap i have problems. it gets stuck to something or doesn't stick to the bin. then it falls. so this press n seal you can just lay it out and move your finger over it and it sticks. and it pulls apart easier as well. so far its really good. only one downside is i wish it were transparent.
also one more thing. i run a small fun in the room so there is a constant airflow in the room. this may play into the air exchange a bit when the corners of the bins are opened. however, the bins are in a closet.