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Lighting ?


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#121 dial8

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Posted 25 October 2007 - 09:36 AM

Yeah 24/7 is fine. I would go with the flourescent light. Direct artificial light is fine but direct sunlight is not.

#122 Hippie3

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Posted 25 October 2007 - 10:01 AM

http://mycotopia.net...light-lighting/

#123 ursamajor

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Posted 25 October 2007 - 10:14 AM

Whups, missed that sub forum. Too bad I have actual work to do today or I could spend my whole day reading it. :eusa_booh

Actually, I often find my questions can get pretty well answered by looking at the "related posts" after I post them. Heh.

#124 EmitFitzhume

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Posted 11 November 2007 - 09:56 PM

Can a florecent light be left on 24/7 in a FC or should it only be on for 12 hours? I know it's essential for pinning but would any negative affects happen if it was left on 24/7? Does the mushroom need a dark cycle?

#125 Hippie3

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Posted 11 November 2007 - 10:00 PM

no darkness is needed, you can leave lights on.

#126 Fresh Brewed

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Posted 12 November 2007 - 07:16 PM

May just be a typo, but depending on the type of FC you have, it might not be a good idea to have the electrical light actually in the FC. I think there would be, at the least, a risk of damage to the light and at the worst a fire or electrical hazard.

#127 kungpow

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 01:11 AM

Like said above I would never put a light inside the terrarium as that might be an electrical hazard. Unless you are going for a total covert operation just set your terrarium in a room and the ambient sunlight will be plenty for the mushrooms to grow.

But to answer your question 24/7 lighting schedule wouldn't ever hurt your mushies.

~Peace Out

#128 EmitFitzhume

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 12:04 PM

The actual electrical light source is outside the FC. Thanks.

#129 MrMycelium

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 12:08 PM

My foaf runs his light on 24/7. Has worked great for him for many years.

#130 myco-curious

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 01:24 PM

First, fungi operate on a circadian cycle just like most living things. Some species are intolerable to light, some species are indifferent to light, and some species require it. Knowing what species we're talking about ultimately determines the answer to the question.

That being said, species such as the common psilocybe cubensis, are indifferent to lighting during their vegetative stage and can be incubated in full light or darkness, however when attempting to induce the fruiting-cycle (initiating pinning) light plays a very important role in reinforcing the circadian cycle it's attempting to follow.

During the "day" period give it 12 hours of a very bright light source in the 5000-6500K color temperature range. Fluorescent bulbs listed as "daylight" color fall into this range so they are ideal. The problem is most fluorescent bulbs, especially those sold as a package deal with a ballast tend to be in the "cool white" (3700K) color temperature range...with the worst being "Plant & Aquarium" bulbs which are only 2700-3000K (very "reddish").

After twelve hours of bright light from that type of light-source, give it 12 hours of a "night" period by turning off the lights. If you have the ability to also control the temperatures of the environment such that the last 4-6 hours of the daylight period where several degrees warmer than the last 4-6 hours of the night period that would be ideal as it's those two signals that the mycelium colony below use as it's guidelines for where it's circadian cycle should be. In my environment, the lowest period is between 3-6AM @ 70-72(F) and the highest period is between 4-6PM @ 75-78(F).

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This, combined with the primary pinning trigger - constant fresh-air exchange - will help ensure dense even flushes...assuming you're maintaining your RH properly throughout the whole process. At least up to the point where the genetics will overrule environmentals in terms of flushes and how prolific a pinner a given sub-strain is going to be.

The fresh-air should not be underrated though. I've seen plenty of passive-air-flow based monotubs with marginal flushes that when cloned, perform wonderfully in environments when the air is fully exhcnaged within the greenhouse several times an hour...once again, assuming the genetics aren't the limiting factor.

#131 Hippie3

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 01:31 PM

During the "day" period give it 12 hours of a very bright light source in the 5000-6500K color temperature range. Fluorescent bulbs listed as "daylight" color fall into this range so they are ideal. The problem is most fluorescent bulbs, especially those sold as a package deal with a ballast tend to be in the "cool white" (3700K) color temperature range...with the worst being "Plant & Aquarium" bulbs which are only 2700-3000K (very "reddish").

After twelve hours of bright light from that type of light-source, give it 12 hours of a "night" period by turning off the lights. If you have the ability to also control the temperatures of the environment such that the last 4-6 hours of the daylight period where several degrees warmer than the last 4-6 hours of the night period that would be ideal as it's those two signals that the Mycelium colony below use as it's guidelines for where it's circadian cycle should be. In my environment, the lowest period is between 3-6AM @ 70-72(F) and the highest period is between 4-6PM @ 75-78(F).


can't hurt but not needed neither.
we see folks do just fine with all kinds of light,
leds, cfls, rope lights, elwire and even xmas lights.
indirect sunlight does seem to have a small advantage
if it's feasible to use
but otherwise anything from a drop-light, shop light
or even a flashlight gets the job of pinning done.

#132 myco-curious

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Posted 13 November 2007 - 01:46 PM

I don't know, I definitely believe that the strongest, most hardy of pins will pin under almost any conditions however I still believe that using strong, "daylight" lighting gives the best possible conditions for dense pinsets.


At some point it would be nice to get a controlled experiment set up using a single-sector isolate and growing out several trays using it, each under identical environmentals varying only the color and intensity of the lighting. Problem is it requires a lot of time and space to meet those sets of controls...

Incidentally, indirect sunlight only gives of light in the 5000-6500K color temperature range during the mid-summer months, so unless you live in a tropical/sub-tropical region, even that falls out of the "ideals". (IMHO)

#133 Guest_peters1982_*

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:08 PM

I know that lighting is an easy question. But I don't have a floresant light. I have a sun systerms 250w lamp, one hps bulb and one mh conversion bulb. Just want to know what bulb is beter or if it maters. Or do I need to go get a floesent tube light?

#134 CoyoteMesc

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:10 PM

If both are available, use the mh for veg and the hps for flower.

#135 Guest_peters1982_*

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:18 PM

For mushrooms? If so can u be more specific on when veg. And flowering w/ shrooms?

#136 CoyoteMesc

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:25 PM

sorry man, this was in the wrong forum,.. No need for either with mushrooms. Just defused light of any sort will work. Dont use the mh or hps for mushrooms. Folks have fruited mushrooms in closets with the only light coming from under the closet door.

I moved this to fungi so you can get more accurate replies. :thumbup:

#137 AmBe

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:30 PM

you should get good results with the light you have

like CoyoteMesc said use your MH conversion bulb for veg and the HPS bulb for flower


edit: didn't realize you were asking about mushrooms, hehe

i was thinking about herb

#138 MrMycelium

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:32 PM

just turn a lamp on in the room and you will be good. lol

#139 Guest_peters1982_*

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 10:01 PM

sorry man, this was in the wrong forum,.. No need for either with mushrooms. Just defused light of any sort will work. Dont use the mh or hps for mushrooms. Folks have fruited mushrooms in closets with the only light coming from under the closet door.

I moved this to fungi so you can get more accurate replies. :thumbup:




Thanks coyote uve done this for me b4. Do I move my cakes to a different room or see what happens

#140 CoyoteMesc

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 10:08 PM

if there any light where they are now?

If you were a three inch tall man, could you see to walk around on the casing and not bump a mushroom? If you could, then thats enough light. If you would trip over a pin cause you couldnt see it, you could use more light.

Personally I dont like to move my projects.




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