12 replies to this topic

[python]

Let me first say, the definition of field capacity ---- which is the amount of water a substance can hold against the force of gravity

therefore there is no squeezing involved at all --- and i think also, that some people often misuse the term "field capacity" for casing materials etc, that they have squeezed (i.e. making the term "field capacity" incorrect in such cases)

For casing materials -- i often recommend that folks use the notebook method . Design some casing materials (different mixes) and add water to them....measuring all the ingredients...and take notes on what works best -- overtime you will accumulate a vast arsenal of information allowing to choose different casing mixes whenever you want, all while keeping perfection.....as far as moisture content goes


but untill then, just think about making mixes that are fluffy but moist --- not wet --- as they arent really proving too much water to the sub, but rather creating a microclimate that is preffered for inducing more efficient, and even pinning

gl

[Lazlo]

Let me first say, the definition of field capacity ---- which is the amount of water a substance can hold against the force of gravity

Exactly. That's why some may here me say 2 drip capacity now.

[python]

moved to fungi.........

:thumbup: laz

[dial8]

But when I measure field capacity I do use the squeeze test. But, that water that drips falls back into the mixing bowl and what was in my hand gets mixed back in so no water is lost.

Squeeze test...take a handful of your mix squeeze lightly and you should see a tiny bit of water accumulate around the fingers. A hard squueze will produce a few drips.

[python]

an option to derive true field capacity would be a thin layer of "mix" put in a colander ---- wet it, and leave it till no water is dripping.........

even a thick amount... like a colander full of wet mix would essentially toss off the field capacity........in a definative sense.......

thats why you have to find 'exact' amounts of water that are added to 'exact' amounts of material to get the 'exact' same result everytime.....

Like dial says, he uses the squeeze test, and thats what id say 80- 90% of people do..........and there is no need to change anything that works well........however, i should say that in the case of a casing mix (well a good deal of mixes)....true field capacity is probably a touch too moist.........

Also, please understand that I am just implying these methods as-to complete your interest in formulas/recipes ---- thus allowing you to form a portfolio of your favorite mixes

[{Mr}fLoYd]

Yeah Field capacity is a lot like everything else in this hobby. Failure. I dont mean that negatively but its true. If you look at a lot of posts the questions can usually only be solved by first hand eperience. how do i know if the popcorn is drained enough, is my casing too deep, ect ect. It took me years of casings and lots of substrates before i got the squeeze down. Its just trial and error. Taking a lot of notes is very very good but ultimatly if you just keep on squeezing substrate mixes and keep on writing things down you will get it. Not only that but a formula is only as good as the consistency of the product you put into it. If you change the brands of the components then your formula might not be right. So keep failing and keep learning. Thats what i try and do. persistancy is the only way to succeed in this game :) GL

[chimp]

I have never measured the amount of water in casing or sub mixture before. Except in pre-made mixtures like hippies BRF mix. I just put the water and mix until the moisture level is correct..If I put too little water I can always add more..If I put too much I can always add more material. Sounds like alot of mental work to
have everything precisely measured. Seems like it would take the fun out of it too.

[wayback]

Field capacity can bit a bit tricky at first, but the addition of those extensively extra recipies merely complicate an already delicate situation. Find a recipe that retains the moisute in your substrate for long enough for pins to form, and then hopefully fruit.

Me? I simply use 10 cups of peat moss, 10 cups of verm, and about a cup of hydrated lime. Oh yeah, I try to use distilled water if at all possible. I mix all those bad boys together and very well by mixing my dry ingrediants first. Afterwards I slowly pour just enough water to obtain that not so magical or mystical several drops of water when mix is squeezed fairly hard.

Naturally, too much water will result in increased contam growth, while too little will mean additional misting will be needed, and that can easily translate into less pins and fruits.

It's really not such a hard task, but yes, it often takes a number of attemps until one gets the hand of the end result. Also, one must take into account the amount of humidity where one lives when composing your casing materials. I've found that a little less water in the casings of high humidity areas works quite well.

Additionally, if you by chance think that your casing mix might still be a bit on the wet side, then distribute a half an inch or so in the bottom of your fruiting chamber tub. With the aid of gravity this should soak up the excess mosisture in a few days.

But don't worry bro, in this hobby there are many pitfalls that can either be viewed as complicated issues, or reduced to eaiser tasks through common sense. If more than a few drops can easily be squeezed out of your casing material, then compensate with the verm.

I hope you get the hang of creating good casings, because the yeild from a decent bulk can be a very rewarding experince. After all, for years I use to look at all those great pics that people send in and think, man if they can do it so can I. But keep in mind, these folks are sending in the best of their best photos, and they too have likely suffered a great many failures before comming up with a picture good enough for bragging rights.

Keep trying, patience is a virtue that pays of in this hobby. There's nothing like watching a great crop grow and produce another personel record.

Grow on bro, grown on and on. Peace.






F

[BuckarooBanzai]

I always test coir, verm or worm castings right before using them. Starting with 10 gm of the dry material, I add very hot water dropwise from a 60mL syringe and stir continuously with a fork.

When the material reaches the point where squeezing the 10 gm ball hard in my hand produces no more than two drops of water, I write down the ratio (weight of dry material to the volume of hot water) and test the other ingredients.

I then hydrate all materials seperately. I'll mix in slightly less water than I need and then stir, stir, stir until everything is uniformly hydrated. If the stuff is a tad dry (squeezing a fistful hard produces no water or only one drop) I'll add a small amount of water. If it is a tad moist (squeezing a fistful hard produces more than two drops) I'll stir back in some dry material.

I only mix materials, by total hydrated volume/weight, after I have the water level of each individual component exactly where I want it.

After mixing, a fistful of the substratre is squeezed hard. If more than two drops of water come out, verm is added to dry it out. I never add water after mixing up the substrate materials.

I always follow a rule that says "Too dry is WAY better than too moist."

[Mermaidia]

I always follow a rule that says "Too dry is WAY better than too moist."

Amen to that!