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the rez effect


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#1 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 11:44 PM

Alright im getting ready to give it my first shot at mycology. im using a rye grain bag and a spore syringe of cambodians. i've been reading around and think i want to give the rez effect a try because it sounds like a very simple casing option. i plan on following the directions on this site-

Casing-Mushrooms Shrooms

Can i expect good results following these directions? seems like i can't post links.

It's basically once the mycelium has fully colonized the rye i put a layer of verm in a tray then break up the mycelium clump and apply it all over the tray making it level then sprinkle another 1/2" layer of verm on top of the mycelium. does this sound correct? i should note i have incubation and fruiting down but just want to make sure this a possible way of casing with just using verm and nothing else.

#2 Hippie3

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Posted 02 September 2007 - 11:55 PM

i edited, replaced your link to the original,
that commercial website took it from here anyway.
:lol:
click this > rez-effect <

#3 golly

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Posted 03 September 2007 - 07:47 AM

Yep,, sounds about right Bliss...Proly the simplest good grain method out there,using Qt jars...
Even simpler though, is fruiting directly from a grain bag, that was premixed with verm ,although your total production maybe a bit less than the tray method ...Have fun..

#4 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 03 September 2007 - 09:52 PM

After the last 1/2" to 1" casing layer is applied should i immediately put under fruiting conditons or let it colonize for a few days in the incubator?

#5 Hippie3

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Posted 03 September 2007 - 09:54 PM

immediate with a casing that thin.

#6 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 03 September 2007 - 10:17 PM

alright thanks

#7 fahtster

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 03:19 PM

you may want to add something to the straight rye... I always had problems with just casing str8 rye grain... the mushrooms always turned out funky looking and seemed to abort a lot, but thats just my experience... I think others have had a similar exp. too. they just grow funny... I dunno. And I tried like five different strains all with similar effects. http://mycotopia.net...wan-nepals.html thats a link to what the chitwan's did... it's just like what the PE's, TC, and others that I did with the straight rye did. It's not beyond me tho to think that it was just the way I grew them but I never had that kind of problem with popcorn or wbs. Not trying to scare ya or anything but you may want to throw some coir in there to help them along. If anyone else has any experience with straight rye, now would be the time to speak up. ;) either way... good luck on your grow! :)

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#8 cheshire

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 04:25 PM

i have also, but i wouldnt put it past myself that its my fault :D

#9 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 05:53 PM

So your saying i should add coco peat wth the vermiculite instead of doing a 100% verm casing?

#10 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 06:03 PM

n/m

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  • Blue hills.jpg


#11 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 09:32 PM

The bags i purchased are rye grain berries nothing else. would i be better off fruiting the substrate clump in the bag with the top cut off the bag for more FAE than casing the pure rye grain substrate?

#12 Hippie3

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 09:36 PM

no, better to case as pure rye will need additional moisture,
which a casing supplies nicely.
or use it to spawn to bulk, straw and/or poo , also water-holders.

#13 Hippie3

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 09:36 PM

So your saying i should add coco peat wth the vermiculite instead of doing a 100% verm casing?

a mix of about 2/3s coir, 1/3 verm seems to perform well.

#14 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 10:09 PM

ok do i need to pH balance the coir or can i do without adding lime?

So hippie when adding the last layer of casing i should put in fruiting correct? on the site i posted in my first post it says after the casing is done put in warm dark place for 3-7 days to allow the mycelium to recover and colonize the casing layer or is there a risk of overlay with doing this?

#15 Hippie3

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 10:25 PM

no lime needed with coir.
you don't reallly 'colonize' the casing layer,
you 'run thru'.
i.e. you want to see a little mycelia in the 'valleys'
but the 'hills' with still just the casing showing.

#16 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 04 September 2007 - 10:53 PM

Should i cover any mycelia that pops up with additional casing material to allow even growth?

#17 fahtster

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Posted 05 September 2007 - 12:21 AM

well, I was actually talking about mixing a little coir in WITH the grain and not just the casing on the bottom and top layers... kind of a coir spawn but more along the lines of the more modern day "rez" effect that "starter"... well, started. lol or you can spawn to straw etc. as hip stated. your call really. both will give you mushrooms if done right... just how many and how they look is all that I'm saying may play a role. Ime anyways. just as the little writing always says: results may vary

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#18 fahtster

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Posted 05 September 2007 - 12:27 AM

as for your question... you can definely patch as needed but about a 30% colonization is usually what is shot for. if the casing layer is colonizing quickly, you may want to patch and check your inside FC temps. too high and myc. will not "snap" into fruiting mode... usually when you add a casing your sub is/should be subjected to a fruiting environment which is slightly lowed temps than colonizing stage... a little more FAE's... and light. that should slow the myc growth so that when the casing is colonized about 30ish % it starts pinning. :)

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#19 CatatonicBliss

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Posted 05 September 2007 - 12:46 PM

The bags i got are 3pound rye grain could i fruit in the bag for first flush then spawn to a coir and verm mix? hmmm

#20 fahtster

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Posted 05 September 2007 - 02:11 PM

well, if you do that your risk for contamination is greatly increased... during your FAE's while your first flush is developing mold spores etc. are going to get on your sub no matter what but the sub is strong enough to defending itself naturally. But if you break the sub up after a first flush, the myc is weakened and far more subject to not being able to fend off the germination of said mold spores... better off picking one way from the start and sticking with that until the life of the sub has expired. :)

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