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Crystal Clear Mescaline HCL -- easy as pie

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#1 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 07:20 PM

This has been a work in progress for some time, enjoy!

It only took an hour to go from the xylene pull to this...evaporate the water overnight and in the morning you will be greeted with the cleanest mescaline hcl you've ever seen. Comes out perfect every time so long as you dry your nonpolar xylene and gas it with the handheld ghetto gasser design -- only has 3 parts. Then collect your mescaline hcl from the gassed xylene jar with a sep funnel and 1/2 cup of boiling hot water (30 seconds)...evaporate off the water overnight. Results seen below, and this is from the 3rd and 4rth pulls on the cactus carboy, still crystal clear/white.

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#2 Hippie3



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 07:31 PM

how ?

#3 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 07:44 PM

Just use a typical tek such as Waylitjim's / Ekstaza's tek here. Collect your xylene from your 4 pulls and then simply dry it with dried epsom salts. Lay a thin layer of epsom salts on a pizza plate in the oven at 400 degrees for 2 hours, then scrape it up with a spatula and put into a jar and seal it to keep moisture out.

Then put your dried epsom salts on a vacuum filter cup with a #101 filter or coffee filter -- fill the dried salts about 1/4 the way up...pour your xylene containing mescaline freebase from your pulls through the filter, turn on the vacuum, collect your dried xylene at the bottom (this will take about 10 to 15 minutes).

Then gas it with the handheld ghetto gasser shown below (takes a minute or two), then just pour your gassed xylene jar into a sep funnel, add 1/2 cup of boiling hot distilled water, wait 15 to 30 seconds, (you don't even need to swirl your sep, just leave it alone)...then drain off the lower water layer, and lay your water out to dry in a pyrex dish.

Put the pyrex dish in the oven at 200 degrees for 30 minutes, then pull it out and put it under a fan the morning you will be greeted with crystalline mescaline hcl shards. Wear a gas mask and gloves and safety glasses when using the handheld gasser with a homemade fume hood. It is very safe, it only makes gas when you need it to exit by gently squeezing on the bottle, then a "puff" about 4 to 5" long of 100% dry anahydrous hcl gas will exit the wand and salt your mescaline, takes about 5 to 10 "squeezes" on the bottle to salt your stuff.

Followed a typical cactus carboy tek to the letter (see the link Hippie3 gave above) then ended up with four 1000ml jars of xylene with mescaline freebase (after 2 weeks worth of pulls...waited 2 to 3 days inbetween each of the four pulls for the carboy to settle before pulling off the top 40 oz or so of yellowish xylene). I didn't have any emulsion problems thankfully and I've used my glass carboy for the 2nd time allready still hasn't cracked, but I keep it in a bucket just to be safe.

This is the ghetto handheld gasser -- requires no sulfuric acid, no epoxy, no jb weld, no glass, no plumbers tape, no multiple jars or anything that will leak. All 3 parts screw together or fit together perfectly real fast.

The gassing was unevenful--I was scared to death to do this because I've never made a gasser before...but my fears were layed to rest after I put it together and used it--possibly the easiest way to salt mesc I've ever used.

Materials needed for the handheld ghetto gasser:

#1 91% isopropyl alcohol HDPE 32 fl oz (946mL) bottle from w******.
#2 Watts A-300A i.d. barb to mip adapter 3/8" by 1/2" from h*** *****.
#3 25' roll of watts polyethylene 1/2" by 3/8" tubing used for food/water uses from h*** *****. cut off a short piece.
#4 box of d*** r** (calcium chloride)
#5 jug of 31.45% muriatic acid
#6 measuring cup
#7 gloves
#8 gas mask
#9 safety glasses
#10 home made fume hood
#11 funnel (for pouring the CaCL & muriatic into the bottle)

Assemble the bottle, mip adapter & hose wand and practice "gassing" a jar of water with air to get a feel for how it operates. Each squeeze will let out 10 to 15 medium sized bubbles. Hold the "squeeze" while the wand is submerged and don't let go of the "squeeze" until you take it back out of the liquid.
It's very easy to operate.

Before beginning, make sure your fume hood is turned on and the fans are pumping air to the outside through the window. Make sure you are wearing jeans, safety glasses, gloves, and gas mask. Have 2 to 4 of your 1000mL or so foaf xylene pull jars (pull #1 and pull #2 jars) sitting in the fume hood with the lids off. Or you can combine all your pulls into a single gallon or bigger jar to be gassed.

#1) Add 500mL (2 cups) of calcium chloride to the empty alcohol bottle, then add 120 mL (1/2 cup) of muriatic acid to the will see it bubble a tiny bit...screw on the barb adapter attachment. The barb adapter should have hose allready attached to it--no glue necessary--they fit perfectly together and will be extremely difficult to pull apart when together. The barb threads into the top of the bottle, perfect fit.

Now just put the hand held gasser in the fume hood and let it sit for 2 minutes (wait for the cacl to do its thing and suck the water from the muriatic, leaving pure concentrated gas in the bottle). Now just pick up the gasser and press on it a little bit and you will see a "puff" of pure hcl gas exit the this a few times in the fume hood so you can make sure the fume hood is working really fume hood has 6 brushless fans and immediately sucks any fumes in the hood and exits them out to the outside right away. There is no "front" to my fumehood, it just has sides, top, bottom & back so I'm able to work freely by just putting my arms & hands into it.

#2) Now insert the wand into the jar #1 --1000mL or so of 1st xylene pull -- make absolutely sure you have dried the non-polar with mescaline freebase through a filter of dried epson salts first to capture any water from the non-polar--it needs to be dry, dry, dry to be gassed and leave us with sparkly white mescaline right away. Squeeze on the bottle while the wand is submerged in the non-polar, it will bubble about 10 to 15 medium sized gas bubbles, then pull wand out while still holding the "squeeze" on the bottle....Repeat this about 5 to 10 more times...this only takes a minute or will immediately see a "snow" of mescaline crystals form in the dried non-polar and they will sink to the bottom.

#3) the recipe given above will produce enough gas imho to gas all four of the xylene pulls from WaylitJim's tek. I only gassed the 1st two 40 to 44oz pulls from the tek tek because I still had to pull the 3rd & 4rth pull. But it was still puffing out plenty of gas when I squeezed on the bottle after I finished up gassing the 1st two pull jars.

#4) hook up the end of an medium power aquarium bubbler ($20 or so) to the narrow end of a long glass pippette and insert the pippette into each of the jars for 5 minutes to bubble air through the non-polar to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas that might be trapped in the non-polar--this will aid in case you decide you want to extract your mesc hcl off with water from the non-polar. It will keep your mescaline pure white and not discolored by any excess hcl in the non-polar.

IMPORTANT: when done gassing, screw the barb off the bottle, put the bottle under a sink faucet, and fill it up to the top with cold water to stop the reaction from producing gas inside the bottle. Then dispose of it properly. The bottle will be warm from the reaction and the water will also serve to cool it down. Don't worry--it doesn't get over 140 degrees.

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#4 Hippie3



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 07:47 PM

#5 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 08:01 PM

Construction of the fume hood:

Materials needed:
#1) 110 Liter sterlite or rubbermaid container
#2) six 115VAC 65CFM brushless computer cooling fans (4.7 x 4.7 x 1.5")
#3) AC cord
#4) soldering iron and solder & electrical tape or screw nuts
#5) 6-32 or 8-32 bolts, nuts & washers for mounting the fans
#6) drill circle tool with blade
#7) ruler and marker
#8) drill & drill bits

TIP: Forward and reverse the drill when you are using the drill circle cutting tool to quickly cut out a circle section for each motor--when you fwd & reverse the drill, I found it cuts through the plastic faster.

Fume hood construction & operation shown below.

#6 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 08:33 PM

THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: When preparing the gassing bottle and when using this tek during the gassing stage, You must wear a gas mask for safety reasons....get one from the place mentioned above or any hardware store...they are about $30 or so, they filter hcl gas, paint fumes, formaldehyde, etc.


The procedure described below is potentially very hazardous. It uses anhydrous hydrogen chloride gas to salt mescaline instead of an aqueous solution. Hydrogen chloride gas is an extremely noxious and potentially deadly compound. The procedures described herein are safe as written, however, accidents are possible. Do not even think about attempting this method without first securing a suitable gas mask or organic vapor mask capable of filtering hydrogen chloride fumes. Learn how to use the mask ahead of time and wear it at all times while the apparatus described is in operation. Work only in well ventilated areas. Do not attempt this procedure in a house where children or invalids are present. Failure to follow all safety precautions can result is serious personal injury or death.

Hydrogen chloride gas is serious business people. Don't fuck around with this. If you are unable or unwilling to follow the safety precautions, then you would be better off not using this method.

All that being said, however, I believe the device shown below to be quite safe. It produces only small amounts of the gas as needed and anyone who can follow directions and has common sense can safely produce beautiful results with this method.

HCL gas is dangerous. Do not breath it. This gasser produces small amounts of gas on demand by squeezing but you still must do this outside (still wearing your gas mask) or use it inside a fume hood. HCL gas will corrode metal stuff on contact, so keep it inside your fume hood. You must wear safety goggles, gloves, pants, and of course, the gas mask at all times when preparing the bottle and using it. But don't worry it is completely safe...this is even easier then the standard titration imho...easy as pie. I construct a new gasser each time I gas by using a fresh empty alcohol bottle. I've used it several times so far, it's very easy to put together and use.

Gas mask shown on the left. Home made fume hood construction shown on the left and middle...then shown in operation on the far right. Just put the fume hood in front of an open secluded window and plug it in. I built the fume hood in a couple hours while watching TV.

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#7 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 08:45 PM

Put the xylene extract pull bottles you have collected so far (or you can combine all the xylene extractions into 1 single gallon bottle or something like that) into your home made fume hood. This picture shows what the first two extractions looked like right after they were gassed for about 1 to 2 minutes...the mescaline hcl falls to the bottom.

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#8 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 08:50 PM

This entire procedure on pull jars #3 and #4 from a cactus carboy tek took only about an hour and a half. Most of the time was spent taking pics. I decided to pull the mescaline hcl out of the gassed jars with water in a sep funnel, as I didn't want to loose any mescaline to the filtering process...last time I lost about 1 gram of mescaline hcl to the #103 2.5 micron filter disc even though it collected about 4 grams on top. I then collected the 1 gram that got thru the filter disc with a sep funnel and water.

If you decide to collect with filtering and vacuum buchner instead, be sure to wash the heck out of the mescaline several times (3 to 4 times) with acetone and rinse it liberally.

You just have to experiment using the 2 collection methods, and find which one you like best. I like using a sep funnel, 1/2 cup of boililing hot water (the traditional way) the best. Don't worry your water is neutral and not acidic so it won't pull out other cactus ca-ca like a typical extraction can do.

Before assembling the gasser (will only take a minute or two) turn on your home made fumehood. Put your safety glasses and gas mask on. The gas mask is very comfortable and works is only about $30 or so. You can use it when doing other things around the house too say if you are painting or doing fine sanding. And it works great for allergies! Put your gloves on. Put your jars to be gassed inside your are ready to go. Have no fear, the ghetto gasser is here.

The gasser was made again by using a funnel to put 2 cups calcium chloride from d*** r** box into the empty alcohol bottle, then added 1/2 cup of muriatic acid, then screwed on the mip adapter/hose top, let it sit for 2 minutes, then it was ready to use--it was very easy and safe...and at the end of gassing the jars, the handheld ghetto gasser does get warm, but it doesn't get all that hot.

I submerged the wand and squeezed it to make bubbles anywhere from 5 to 10 times for each jar. At the end of the gassing which only took a minute or too, water from a nearby gallon of water was poured into the bottle with a funnel to extinguish it. After a while, the calcium chloride will turn rock hard at the bottom and won't come out. Fill the bottle all the way to the top with water when you are done, screw on the lid and put it into a single black garbage bag and dispose of it properly along with your normal trash.

It is so easy to doesn't puff out gas until you need it--by holding the gasser and giving it a gentle squeeze, you will then see about a 4 to 5 inch puff of gas (when it reacts with the moisture in the air, it can be seen). It does not exit gas continuously like a locomotive or anything, it's only available when you need it, so it's very safe. If for some reason you need more gas, just swirl or shake the bottle a little bit...but I didn't have to do that at made plenty of gas and exited the gas on demand just by squeezing...Even after gassing the 2 jars, it still was able to put out more gas easily by squeezing on it...this was all done inside of a fumehood. The fumehood was put in front of an open back window.

1) This is the 3 gallon glass carboy used to hold 1kg of cactus for the 4 pulls, about 2 to 3 days inbetween pulls, and 8 to 9oz of lye (first mixed into a pint of hot water) was added after each pull before adding 40 to 44 oz of xylene (about 1000mL) for each pull. It's been used once before and still hasn't cracked, but then again I put my 9oz of lye into 1/2 to 1 pint of hot water slowly with stirring, then add it to the carboy inbetween pulls. I never put my lye crystals directly into the carboy. I keep the glass carboy in a plastic container when not rolling it around on pieces of carpet just in case though it should ever crack.

2) Cactus carboy pull Jar #3 and Jar #4 right out of the carboy--a long glass pipette made collecting the xylene easy for all the pulls.

3) Drying the xylene containing mescaline freebase -- vacuum flask, deluxe food saver to generate the powerful vacuum, buchner cup with #101 filter disc, 2 jars of dried epsom salt (2 hours at 400 degrees in the oven) but only 1 jar needed to dry both jars #3 and #4.

4) Jar #3 poured into the buchner about 1/4 full of white dried epsom salts to dry it quickly. Turn on the vacuum.

5) This step is out of place but just be sure to bubble air thru each collection jar after gassing for about 5 to 15 minutes to evacuate off any lingering hcl gas. I used a pretty strong medium level aquarium pump, so I bubbled air for about 5 min. This will ensure your mescaline pull will stay white/clear/off white when you pull long as your non-polar was dried properly as well.

6) Closeup of the dried epsom salts after they were used -- they turn yellow after sitting in the xylene. Rinse your now yellow salts and filter disc with fresh xylene through a 2nd fresh #101 filter put on the buchner cup again to top off the jar. This will collect any lingering non-polar from the salts and filter you used.

TIP: Wear your gas mask when drying your xylene non-polar thru the vacuum flask--it is quite stinky and it will keep you comfortable -- your lungs will thank you! Keep ventillation going too to the outside, or you can do this in front of your fumehood to keep fumes down.

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#9 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 09:04 PM

PHOTOS from steps (2) thru (6) from the above post:

The filtering system--can use a water faucet & aspirator but I used a deluxe foodsaver (hit the 'vacuum' button to generate the powerful vacuum), a 1000mL buchner flask, #103 filter paper (slow speed fine crystalline retention), plumbers tape to match the foodsaver to the hose from the flask.

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#10 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 09:11 PM

7) Closeup of mescaline raining out of one of the post-gassed jars as it falls and collects on the bottom.

8) Items for collecting the mescaline hcl from the jars using a traditional water wash: sep funnel, 4 to 6 oz of boiling hot distilled water, collection jar.

9) Sep funnel with Jar #3 added to it, this is right before the water is added.

10) Boiling hot water added to sep funnel holding the contents from jar #3 -- the water is crystal clear even after 30 seconds of standing, I collected it within 30 seconds or so. The mescaline hcl dissolves instantly into the bottom polar water layer.

11) Jar #4 sep funnel with contents

12) Jar #4 water collection (photo not shown, accidentaly lost)

13) I put the pyrex dishes full of water from the sep funnel drainage into the oven for about 30 minutes at 200 degrees, then took them out and left them to evaporate off the water under a fan overnight.

UPCOMING: I'm also gonna do an acetone wash because it doesn't hurt, and I've always been happy with the product from an acetone wash--I've had beautiful rocking experiences over a dozen times with acetone washed mescaline hcl. I'll use a mortar & pestal (acetone wash/scrub) and a buchner funnel & #103 filter paper to do the acetone rinse instead of a funnel & cotton ball to see how it works out...I'm also going to do an everlcear (95% alcohol) re-crystallization, and hope to have pics to show the results eventually.

Please note that the pictures of the two dishes you see at the beginning of this post WERE NOT RE-CRYSTALLIZED! You should do an acetone wash after you scrape it up anyways, then you can re-crystallize it if you want, but I don't think it's really necessary to re-crystallize it...the gassing method gives you pretty nice crystals as is. But do an acetone wash on them for sure.

A few Re-Crystallization threads:
1) research posts
2) me!'s method of re-crystallization (will post below)
3) Rhodium: http://designer-drug...a-b.basics.html

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#11 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 09:23 PM

Acetone wash if you want: This is described in WaylitJim's tek towards the end (plus there are a few pics there of how to do this).

You should always do an acetone wash on your stuff no matter how good it looks. I've ALWAYS had excellent trips (over a dozen now) from acetone washed favorite.

1) Just put your mescaline from the scraped up pyrex dish into a mortar & pestal, add ice cold acetone, and pestal it for a few minutes real good, this will "scrub" the crystals clean.

2) Put a cotton ball into a funnel mounted on your vacuum flask and pour your mixture from the mortar & pestal through it.

3) Turn on the vacuume and vacuume it for a few seconds to pull out any trapped acetone from the cotton.

4) Pull the cotton out of the funnel, and put it under a heater/fan to dry...this may take a few hours...make sure it is absolutely dry before going to the next step.

5) In a few hours when the cotton is all dry, I'll put it back into a clean funnel, then pour boiling hot water thru the funnel & cotton, collect the hot water that falls thru on a pyrex dish, then evaporate off the water under a heater/fan to re-collect the now cleaned up mescaline.

#12 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 09:24 PM

The pics you see at the beginning of this post were what was left right after the water evaporation...they have not been acetone washed yet. They have not been re-crystallized.

Remember, you don't have to re-crystallize your stuff...but if you want, here's one way to do it:

Re-crystallization tek from one of me!'s old posts:

But to further increase potency and to make it as clean as possible, you will need to recrystalize it... you don't have to do this... the powder is big time strong "as is"... but crystalizing it will make it even better. It isn't that hard, but its a tricky task with natural mescaline... the green/yellow impurity seems a crystalization inhibitor of sorts... and you can't ever completely get rid of it with acetone washes alone...

the easiest way is to use 99% isopropanol (most supermarkets...) and acetone:

dissolve your powder in a minumum of isopropyl alcohol (IPA)... and I do mean a very bare minimum... don't be too worried when your solution looks brown instead of clear. Its the Impurity!

the idea here is to make a syrup out of mescaline and IPA... so to begin with, just add enough to wet the drug. Do this in a small pyrex bowl or a small earlenmyer... Heat it slowly and gently with stirring... don't let it burn... if all the mescaline dissolves, good. It probably won't so add just enough IPA until, when boiling, it is all dissolved.

Continue boiling it until a "skin" appears on the top of the liquid. It doesn't have to cover the whole dish, just when you see the skin at all, you know you're close... you'll want to continue boiling off the IPA until you just start to notice stuff precipitating out at boiling temps. Remove it from the heat right then and flood it with ice cold acetone (about the same volume as the solution you're flooding). If you're lucky, it will "crack" on the spot (immediately "rock up"). Be careful when adding the 'tone... it will crack and pop and sometimes crystals will fly out of the bowl or flask! (See if you can catch them in your mouth! laugh.gif ) This is best done in a flask. More than likely, you'll need to put it in the freezer (covered!) for a couple of hours.

Upon returning, you should have a bowl full of very nice crystals. They will be small little rocks and most won't be terribly clear, but they will be very exceptionally pure and should melt right at 181 deg C. Filter them from the liquid, rinse them with acetone and let them dry.

Save the liquid. It still has mescaline in it. Boil it down as before, and put in the freezer again. More crystals should appear. You can keep on doing this over and over but eventually, there won't be any mesc left in it.

Don't expect big crystals. You may get lucky, but so far, large crystals of mesc HCl remain elusive for almost all of us... The material thus crystalized is extremely potent. I think it to be nearly twice the potency of the white powder, but have no subjects other than myself and one other to base that observation on.

your crystals may still have a yellow tint to them... absolutely pure mescaline HCl is white/clear with no hint of color... you can take this material and crystalize it over and over to get rid of the coloration, but at some point, it becomes kind of silly to keep at it. A single crystalzation will give you material over 99.9% pure, even if stained a bit on the crystal faces...

if you feel like getting frustrated, you can crystalize a second time with water/acetone instead of IPA. Do everything identical, except no freezer. Put it in a cold refrigerator instead. For as long as it takes. Water grows the biggest crystals, but takes days on end... sometimes weeks. If you have a lot of mesc on hand, though, so you might stand a chance of growing some really large crystals from water.

(crystalization is easier the more alkaloid you do it with... less than a gram is way hard...)

Be careful when you're boiling this stuff. IPA is flammable, but not radically so. Use a skillet of sand on the electric stove or hotplate. Do not do this on a gas burner. It will catch fire. (If it does, quiclkly stopper the flask or put a piece of glass over the dish... I have had this happen being impatient and boiling the stuff with a crack lighter. (very stupid of me!) It does not damage your mescaline if you put the flames out fast enough. But it will make you shit your pants, so avoid flames!)

The use of boiling chips (tiny bits of broken porcelain... any porcelain will do.) is mandatory when boiling alcohols... just toss three or four of them in the liquid. They provide nucleation points for the release of gas during boiling and prevent nasty "bumps" (when the stuff abruptly boils all at once and ejects itself out of the flask and onto the ceiling). Constant, uninterrupted stirring serves the same purpose but if you're like me, you'll quit stirring just long enough to grab a drink of water and it will happen. Scraping your drugs off the ceiling is a bitch! Be especially careful when the stuff become thick. That's when it will really do it bad. Remove the chips before adding the acetone.

#13 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 09:26 PM

That's it my fellow mycotopia friends...I'm happy to answer any questions you may have.

#14 i01231



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 10:20 PM

wow ... you prolly spend the whole day doing that project. Thanks for sharing your work.

As far as i understand you are are using HCl gas instead of HCL(aq) or (muriatic acid). Without water Mescaline will crystalize within the Xylene and you simply filter it off.

You have used the other teks too and i was wondering if the gasser is more simple than the freezer or Waylitsjim tek.
Whatever .... impressive result .. congrats :bow:

#15 tregar



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Posted 28 October 2007 - 10:34 PM

Thanks my friend !01231. Yes, I'm glad the project is I can take a nice long break! Yes, you are right, if you decide not to collect with water, you can filter the crystals directly out of the xylene with a vacuum system and a #103 (2.5 micron) filter disc. I did do that works, however about 1 gram got through the filter, leaving 4 grams on top of it (5 grams collected in all from the 1st two pulls of four total). You then simply collect your 1 gram that got through the filter with the traditional water collection (sep funnel, 1/2 cup hot water, etc.). The reason that some mescaline gets through the filter is because the crystals are tiny.

However, you would think that the crystals would come out clean directly on the filter...but they do not...they are perfectly formed, tiny and clean BUT each crystal is surrounded by a layer of stained will end up with a mat of yellow/green goo on your filter--you then have to put this into a mortar and pestal then a jar and wash it AT LEAST 3 times or more...then put it back on a clean #103 filter disc and rinse it liberally with LOTS of acetone to get it clean. It must have NO CHEMICAL SMELL or TASTE before being consumed in dreams. This is very important. Traces of xylene affect the brain and can ruin a trip. You must wash and rinse it with acetone.

me! did a great job of describing this also:

A friend wrote to me explaining that his mescaline came out a green paste after gassing...

It is roughly 98% mescaline HCl. Even if green and ugly.

Check out this picture.

That's what it always looks like at first.

I'm really glad he brought this up because, evidently, I neglected to mention this part before. Yes, when you filter it, it will be stained green and look like nasty stuff. What you're seeing is a paste of mescaline HCl (99% pure), toluene, and the dreaded non-polar/polar soluble impurity.

an acetone wash cleans this up.

I have never seen mescaline precipitate as fully formed crystals. I've only observed this with *************** HCl (yes, it did turn out to be ****...) and then only twice. (that one crystalizes if you look at it wrong. Mescaline HCl, on the other hand is notoriously hard to crystalize...)

what these do when they precipitate is they fall as a powder. White powder just like you see in the gassing cylinder.

but when you filter the stuff, the green stained toluene sticks to the powder and stains it. Its unavoidable unless you have a centrifuge.

take all your green stained powder and put it in a small dish or beaker... cover with cold acetone and stir vigorously. Let mesc settle to the bottom. Then decant the now green stained acetone carefully or filter it through the filter of your choice. The mescaline will grow progressively whiter with each wash... three rinses are usually sufficent.

(compare the color of this impurity to Pedro. In fast extractions, it never fails to be the identical green color of Pedro... it has to be chlorophyll...)

then turn it back into your drying dish and let it dry completely.

you should have a very, very nice white powder at this point. It is very, very highly pure and suitable for immediate use...

#16 prankster239



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Posted 29 October 2007 - 05:50 AM

Very good thread :eusa_clap

#17 tregar



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Posted 29 October 2007 - 08:59 AM

Thanks prankster.

Correction: In post #10, you should use a coffee filter or #101 filter disc, not #103 filter disc paper, we are just using a standard filter to keep the dried epsom rocks (magnesium sulfate) on top. No need for a #103, #101 will do fine.

Also, in post #16, I did an experiment to see what would happen if you do not dry your nonpolar, I took one jar and did not dry it...and filtered the mesc. hcl off...the goo mat on the #103 filter will turn out brown instead of bright yellow. There is about 1ml of water trapped in each 1 liter of xylene...the drier the nonpolar the prettier your product in the end, even if you collect with water as I did in this thread.

The boiling hot distilled water you use to collect your mescaline with in the sep funnel is neutral and not acidic, so it will not pull extra crap out of your xylene solution.

Also, when using a 1000ml or smaller sep funnel, it is really only necessary to pour in the bottom layer of your gassed jar containing the mesc. hcl that fell to the bottom. I simply took the gassed jar after it had settled for about 10 minutes and decanted off the top xylene portion into a vacant jar. Then I poured off the bottom layer containing the mesc hcl into the sep funnel then extracted it with 1/2 cup boiling hot water from the microwave in 30 seconds, drained off the bottom water layer from the sep funnel, stick it in the oven at 200 F for 1/2 hour, then take it out and let the rest evaporate under a fan overnight.

In the morning scrape up your beautiful crystals with a razor and clean then with acetone (see the pics at the end of waylitjim's tek to see how to do an acetone wash with a funnel & cotton ball & hot water) or you can use a buchner flask with a #103 filter. Mix your crystals in a mortar & pestal for a few minutes with ice cold acetone--pestal it real good for a while, then pour it on top a #103 filter disc on your buchner, turn on the vaccum, and rinse the mescaline on top with more ice cold acetone over and over. Then let the crystals dry on the filter and scrape them off later. However, the method shown by Waylitjim with photos using funnel/cotton ball/acetone/water rinse of the cotton into a pyrex dish for evaporation works just fine, comes out great.

I've noticed when I cleaned a couple grams with ice cold acetone that I only lost 30mg to the water in the acetone--there's not that much water in the acetone, about 1.2% or so water is in acetone. However, if you want you can still recover whatever you lost to your acetone wash by letting your leftover acetone sit for about 10 minutes, any mescaline that's in it will fall to the bottom. Decant off all the acetone (pour off the acetone) in a vacant jar except for a tiny amount left at the bottom holding the mescaline...then swirl it and pour it off into a pyrex dish slanted at an angle...the mescaline will collect at the top/middle of the pyrex dish, and the acetone will fall to the bottom of the pyrex where it can be poured off. Then just wait for dish to dry, and scrape up the 30mg or so of mescaline on the dish with a razor.

!01231 said:

You have used the other teks too and i was wondering if the gasser is more simple than the freezer or Waylitsjim tek.

Waylitjim's tek must be used before using this tek, you just stop at the point in his tek when you have collected all your xylene pulls...then you convert over to my tek at that point to gas it with anahydrous hcl gas to collect superclean mescaline hcl.

I don't freeze my carboy or anything like that though, I just siphon the top xylene layer after every 2 to 3 days for each of the 4 pulls with a super long glass pipette (doesn't spill anything back into the carboy--it works perfect, but takes a little longer to collect, about 15 to 30 minutes to get all the xylene out). A long glass pipette works far better than a turkey baster...turkey baster's will drip xylene back into your carboy when you are pulling and cause your layer to go cloudy as the dribbling liquid stirs up the contents when the "get away drops" splash back in. Glass pipettes do not dribble at all.

*The only thing in this tek I'm unsure about is using the deluxe foodsaver to generate the has worked flawlessly for me, however, you are safer using a faucet and aspirator to generate a vacuum...I don't know 100% if the foodsaver deluxe is safe to use for this. So, to be on the safe side, use a dedicated chemical resistant vaccum motor or faucet/aspirator piece to generate a vacuum for your buchner flask.

*Also, you will notice that the drying agent used in this procedure is dried epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). It works great and is the preferred drying agent for this procedure. However, the dried salts will crumble when you use them and they tend to "stop up" the #101 filter paper or coffee filter...this is the hardest part of the entire tek because it takes so long to dry your xylene containing mescaline freebase--sometimes it takes up to 20 minutes for the xylene to make it through the filter even with a powerful vacuum's because magnesium sulfate (even from a chemical supplier) comes in a powder form--it doesn't come in granular chunks which would make this part of the process easier...maybe one day somebody will figure out somthing else to use. You don't want to use calcium chloride from d*** r** to dry your nonpolar (even though it would work super fast being in round pellet forms that don't crumble apart) because calcium chloride can be reactive with mescaline freebase. So don't dry amines such as mescaline with calcium chloride, it is not recommended. I hope somday somebody will figure out a better way to dry the xylene. Another possibility might by to use drierite chunks (dessicant or calcium sulfate). It does come in chunks. I'm looking into that.

#18 Dank Side Of The Shroom

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Posted 29 October 2007 - 09:22 AM

damn nice write up.

#19 camMyco


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Posted 29 October 2007 - 10:32 AM

Great write up! I wish I had the confidence to try a chemical extract like that.

#20 tregar



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Posted 29 October 2007 - 10:37 AM

Thanks guys, appreciate the kind words. I am not a chemist and have no chemical background...everything I've learned has been from the forums. It is really quite easy, you just have to study all the pictures and read and re-read the procedure and practice. I had a year of chemistry with lab in college but I didn't learn all that much, I paid more attention to the girls in class.

haha, that's a funny Halloween avatar!

The stuff from the pulls is 99.9% crystalline clear looking -- it absolutely blew me away. Just goes to show what can happen when you dry your nonpolar well and gas with 100% anahydrous hcl gas. There is no discoloration at all in the dish--any color you see is an artifact of lighting as photography is not my specialty. It's beyond white--it's see thru transparent like crystalline.

I still hope in the future we can come up with a substitue for powdery magnesium sulphate (even from the chemical suppliers it comes in powder form). I wonder if drierite chunks (calcium sulfate) would be an acceptable substitue? Anything that doesn't powder would be good--it would keep the xylene flowing thru the filter faster and less mess to clean up. We need a drying agent that's in chunks and won't powder, that is compatible with the amine holding nonpolar.

I would like to thank waylitjim for his excellent tek, had it not been for his acetone wash procedure at the end of his and ekstaza's tek with photos, I would never have cleaned up my super brown mescaline that sat in a container for 3 years (I don't like brown mescaline all that much, but lots of people do just fine with it, cleaned up to tan is great though) arrive at over a dozen beautiful life enhancing experiences.

My chemical genius friend just wrote me:

I don't see why you filter it the way you do. It's not as effective at drying as leaving the drying agent submerged in solvent for a few hours, followed by decanting and filtering the solvent (without the powder). Sure it may not be as quick, but the filtering takes 10 seconds and you also get a much drier solvent.

That said, epsom salts are USP so you can be assured that those are fine. When you dehydrate them, make a layer 2-3cm thick and then break it into chunks instead of making it a powder. My epsom salts look like grape sized chunks. Calcium sulfate would work fine, but you really are going through extra hoops to get the same or a possibly less dry solvent.

Solvents don't dry that quickly, whether you vacuum filter or not. It's true that it doesn't need to be as dry as the submersion method, but that doesn't make the filtering process easier anyway. You can tell when something is dry by observing the drying agent - when the pieces are no longer clumpy, the solvent is dry (well, as dry as the agent can get them anyway).

Oh yeah, :thumbsup: on the crystals!

That's the way I will dry the solvent next time--I will add the dried salt chunks to the solvent, swirl it around, let it sit for a few hours, then decant off the solvent from the drying agent at the bottom, then filter it (without the powder) thru a #101 filter...then it will be ready for the gassing.

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