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Crystal Clear Mescaline HCL -- easy as pie


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#81 tregar

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Posted 18 November 2007 - 08:44 PM

So as to not confuse anybody, I put all the steps together after you have collected your 4 xylene pulls from the carboy, and dried them of course with a few handfulls of dried epsom salts, filtered the now dry solvent thru a #103 filter on a buchner vacuum flask to get out any traces of magnesium sulphate drying agent, and then of course gassed it. Just pour the contents of each of the 4 jars into a single large glass container and dry it and then gas it. When you are done gassing don't forget to bubble air thru the large glass container for about 5 minutes with an aquarium pump connected to a pipette submerged into it...this will drive off any lingering hcl gas from the gassed solvent.

Here's a complete breakdown & overview of the process using the alternate method of collection (not by adding water to the sep funnel to collect the mescaline hcl):

1.) PHOTO 1: Gas your dry xylene jar with mescaline freebase then bubble air thru it for 5 minutes with an aquarium pump to drive off any lingering hcl gas from the solvent, then let the mescaline fall back to the bottom of the jar, takes about 15 minutes.

2.) PHOTO 2: Pour the bottom most layer of the jar or large glass container into a sep funnel, the mescaline hcl will fall to the bottom.

3.) PHOTO 3: Drain the bottom mescaline hcl layer from the sep funnel into a dish, it will be bright yellow (if you used xylene and dried it properly). It may be green. It will be brown if you did not dry your xylene...there is 1ml of water per liter of xylene that needs to be removed via solvent drying with dried epsom salts. Let the majority of the xylene evaporate off over 1/2 hour or so on the dish with a fan blowing over it...as it dries, you will see white mescaline "oozing" out of the goo ball, or as you scoot the goo ball around on the dish, it will leave streaks of white mescaline.

4.) PHOTO 4: Since we gassed our product, the yellow stained xylene washes away very easily and very quickly with acetone. Put your goo ball into a buchner cup with a #103 filter disc, wash and rinse it with acetone several times following this method:

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Post Gassing Clean-up:

A] Drain off the bottom mescaline layer into a dish, it will form a "goo ball". Leave it alone for 1/2 to 1 hour under a fan to evaporate off most of the xylene.

B] Put the goo ball into a buchner cup sitting on top a buchner vacuum flask with a #103 filter disc.

C] Now disconnect the vacuum hose to break the vacuum. Then reattach it, but leave the vacuum turned off. This creates a sealed volume of air, so when you pour liquid on top of the filter paper, the trapped air will tend to keep it there instead of allowing it to drain through.

D] Now using a wash bottle, wash the powder/goo ball with acetone until it's completely covered, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then turn the vacuum on, and filter through the acetone. Now rinse the powder with more acetone as it's being sucked through. This soaking and washing will remove the vast majority of the xylene. Rinse it at least 3 times with acetone. Since the product was gassed, the yellow stained xylene washes away from the mescaline easily and quickly.

E] Cover the filter funnel with a large oversized piece of filter paper, and suck air through the funnel for a couple of minutes, this will help dry the powder and protect it from dust.

F] Now remove the filter funnel and allow the white powder to completely dry.

Once dry, the now off-white to white power will flake off the filter paper, so you won't get mushy paper fibres in with your product. The product will be white if you dried your xylene carefully earlier on before it was gassed, but it's still not done yet--the white mescaline has trapped solvent fumes/residue on it that must be "driven" off by adding it to boiling hot water and letting the fumes evaporate off....or you can do a re-crystallization on it now, then add the re-crystallized product to a minimal amount of hot distilled water and evaporate off the water, then scape up your perfectly clean & pure white to translucent mescaline hcl.

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5.) Last photo: You will be left with a wet mat of white mescaline, plop it off into a drying dish, and as the last bit of acetone evaporates from the drying dish, it will leave a layer of white mescaline on your dish, just scrape it up.

6.) The white mescaline will contain solvent fumes and have a chemical smell and taste...it is now necessary to either add it to a minimal amount of boiling hot water to drive off solvent fumes...put it into the drying dish with a fan blowing over it, then scrape up the mescaline in the morning...taste it and smell it, it will have no chemical residue or smell if done properly...what I prefer to do is re-crystallize it with boiling hot MEK after I have scraped up the white mescaline from the dish....THEN after the re-crystallization is done, I add it to a minimal amount of boiling hot water to drive off solvent fumes and scrape it up in the morning.

HOW TO RE-CRYSTALLIZE:

EXPLANATION:

The MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) thing is a dual solvent recrystallization: MEK and water. The impurities are soluble in both water and MEK, but are slightly more soluble in MEK then the Mescaline is. That's why the Mescaline will drop out first.

This has to be done quite precisely because if you add too much water, then not all your Mescaline will precipitate out. But if you don't add enough water, then the impurities stay stuck to Mescaline powder instead of dissolving into the solution. So you have to use well dried MEK, and once it's boiling, you add 1 drop of water at a time, just until all the Mescaline powder dissolves. This gets both the impurities and the Mescaline dissolved in the MEK/water mix. And then the solution becomes clear instead of shimmery. It would help if you could stir the solution with a glass rod in between water drop additions, as this helps get everything mixed round well, and would help to avoid adding too much water.

After getting the Mescaline powder to dissolve, you boil the solution to drive off the water (along with some of the MEK) until the solution becomes saturated (shimmery again). The loss of some of the water is what makes some of the Mescaline precipitates out as tiny seed crystals. When the solution is cooled down, the rest of the Mescaline grows on those crystals, forming large ones. The impurities stay in the solution.

THE PROCESS:

All you really need to know for a kick ass re-crystallization to turn your yellow, tan to off-white looking sanchez into pure white to translucent mescaline:

2 passes may be needed to turn dark brown sanchez into pure translucent product, judging from White's latest experiment. He used 80% MEK, 20% ISO, water to taste. He added 10x the amount of product as solvent. 1 pass will be all that's needed to turn gassed product (as collected above in post #53 & #54) to pure white to translucent product. Even if you collect your gassed Mescaline hcl with a sep funnel and hot boiling water (drain water off within 15 seconds or less), you should be able to get pure white to translucent product with 1 pass.

I dont know how to simplify it any more than this. Its easy. Put 3 grams sanchez in erlenmeyer flask with 150 mL boiling mek (a large excess of mek.) Use around 50 mL per 1 gram of sanchez. Put a boiling stone or chipped piece of porcelain in your flask too. Add water drop by drop until all the Mescaline dissolves, it will go from a "cloudy" appearance to a "clear" appearance when you have added enough drops of water, this means the last of the Mescaline has dissolved. You can stir it a little with a glass rod after each water drop addition to make sure it mixes in well. If your lab hotplate has a built in stirrer, then you can turn on the stirrer for a while after each addition. Then just boil down until the liquid begins to "shimmer" --- it will take on a shiny shimmering appearance. Stick it in the freezer for a couple of hours. If no crystals appear, simply boil it some more and shove it back in the freezer. Once you have crystals, simply filter them off and rinse with cold very anhydrous acetone. Let dry. Add crystals to a minimal amount of boiling hot water in a pyrex brownie dish sitting under a fan to drive off any acetone fumes...When water has evaporated, scrape up the crystals. Eat crystals. Trip balls.

Make sure you use a laboratory style hot plate with a thin skillet or cake plate of sand with or without added mineral oil added to the sand, or an aluminum cup with mineral oil bath to hold your flask...and a fume hood is a must if this is being done inside. See the pictures at the beginning of this post to see how to build an easy fumehood in under 2 hours. You can do this while you watch TV. It mounts up to an open back window. Keep a fire extinguisher on hand, baking soda, a bucket of sand, wet towel, etc. for safety reasons. Don't have any open flames anywhere, not even a pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear full protective goggles, heat resistant chemical gloves, long sleeve shirt. The powerful fans are of the brushless computer PC type, they are non-spark.

For really big crystals, put the flask in a pot of boiling water that has been taken off the stove and put on a mitten on a table, cover the top of the flask...the pot will take ages to cool down...this will help develop awesome crystals, then when the pot reaches room temp, put your flask in the refridgerator, then move it to the freezer overnight. In the morning you will have tons of beautiful pure white to see-thru transparent crystals depending on how clean your stuff was to start with. The gassing gives you pretty clean stuff anyways, see post #54 for typical color of post gassed product. Your MEK will be brown to gold colored...just filter off your crystals over a #101 to #103 round disc filter sitting in the buchner cup of your vacuum filter flask and rinse them with ice cold anahydrous (dried) acetone.

To make the acetone anahydrous (remove the water) bake a thin layer of epsom salts in the oven at high temp 400 degrees F. for a couple hours. They will turn white. When it cools down crush it up a little, use a spatula to scrape it up. Throw a few hand fulls in your tin of acetone. Leave it for an hour or two and shake it every few minutes. Decant off the top layer of acetone above the rocks and filter it a few times thru a #103 filter disc on a vacuum flask before you use any. If your acetone is anahydrous you won't loose any product when you rinse the crystals.

After the crystals are rinsed dissolve them in minimal boiling hot dH2O and evap. under a fan. Then scrape up crystals when dry. This is always done after acetone rinses to remove any remaining acetone so as to leave a totally solvent free clean product.

Concerning the re-crystallization:

I found a 3 quart stainless steel pet bowl about 7" in diameter and 3" tall to fill with sand to use as my "sand bath" that sits on top the lab hot plate. I also found a compact digital thermometer with 3" probe that reads from -40 degree to 450 degree F, it can be stuck in the sand to read the approximate temp. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, look in the chemical paint isle) boils at about 80 degree C, or 176 degrees. F. I may show pics in a few weeks. You can find a bag of play box sand at any big home improvement store, or get some from your local playground. You can find a fire extinguisher and a box of baking soda at many stores to keep around for safety, keep a wet towel around too. Pick up a pair of safety goggles if you don't allready have one, and a good pair of long chemical resistant gloves for safety. You will need to build my home made sparkless fume hood (see the 1st part of this thread for pictures) if doing inside near a window. Don't forget to get an erlenmeyer flask--it sits in the sand while the contents are boiling. If your hot plate does not have a stirrer, you will need a glass rod or long glass pipette to use to stir the solvent after each water droplet addition. Last but not least, don't forget to add boiling stones or a chipped piece of porcelain to your erlenmeyer flask while the contents are boiling...this must be done to prevent "bumping" so the solvent doesn't shoot out all over the place. You will need a medicine dropper or long glass pipette to use to drop the drops of water in. A buchner filter flask with #101 filter disc would be helpful to have to pour your colored MEK through to collect your clean crystals, then rinse them with anahydous "dry" acetone. Epsom salts will be needed to dry the acetone. Oven required to heat epsom salts at 400 degrees for 2 hours, fridge and freezer needed to grow a large clean crystal matrix.

Pictures to follow in about 4 weeks of the re-crystallization process with before and after photos of the mescaline hcl, this should make it easier for you to follow and understand, I'll re-crystallize different shades in dreams so you can see how they turn out with just 1 pass. Very brown mescaline may require 2 passes to get it translucent.

Good books on mescaline & lab procedures:

The Organic Chem Lab Survival Manual by James W. Zubrick.
The Doors of Perception by Aldous Huxley.
Moksha by Aldous Huxley.
Psychedelics Encyclopedia by Peter Stafford pages 102-155.
Pharmacotheon, Entheogenic drugs, their plant sources & history by Jonathan Ott.
The Peyote Story by Bernard Roseman.
Mescal & Mecahnisms of Hallucinations by Heinrich Kluver.
LSD, my problem child by Albert Hofmann, Ph.D.
Phantastica by Louis Lewin, M.D.
The Varieties of Psychedelic Experience by Robert Masters, Ph.D. and Jean Houston, Ph.D.
Peyote by Edward Anderson.
Peyote and other Psychoactive Cacti by Adam Gottlieb.
Trout's Notes on San Pedro Cactus, Sacred Cacti 3rd Edition.

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#82 tregar

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Posted 21 November 2007 - 12:10 PM

Shroomojo trader said:

Just do tregars handheld gassing tek next time. I was kinda iffy about gassing with ME!'s setup but once i tried tregars super easy method i got pure white crystals, no need for acetone washing or any other bullshit!

Yes, the gasser can give you pure white crystals (see pic above on far right) but they still need to be cleaned. If you smell and taste the white product it will have a xylene taste and smell similar to "dirty socks" this is due to the solvent residue, that's why further cleaning is mandatory. Wash with acetone and rinse at least 3 times with acetone, then re-dissolve in some boiling hot distilled water to drive off any solvent fumes, then evaporate down to the crystals which are then scraped up.

Best thing to do is a re-crystallization after you collect your gassed white product seen above. Even Litmus did this on his suphate crystals, see the deep knowlege vaults here on cactus. Then after the MEK recrystallization is done, add white to translucent crystals to a miminal amount of hot boiling hot water to drive off any lingering solvent fumes, evaporate off the water, then scrape up the clean crystals. Still a few weeks away from the re-crystallization. Waiting for funds to buy an important piece of equipment.

Foaf's simple mescaline extraction (from the vaults here):
http://mycotopia.net...extraction.html

Checkout sulphate tek by litmus, notice he does a re-crystallization to get translucent crystals, it is also possible to get translucent hcl crystals by re-crystallizing the white hcl gassed product seen above.
http://mycotopia.net...-need-help.html

#83 L-Dopa

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Posted 21 November 2007 - 12:40 PM

tregar, I've followed your posts on a variety of subjects and continue to be impressed with your intensity to detail. I definitely think you're the most interesting poster on any of the forums I've read.

I really enjoyed your previous posts relating to LSA, and this one is no different. IMO, I think your writing is getting more organized and clearer to read. Great job.

I hope you keep up the good work and continue to provide references for the information you relate. Some real research is evident and your posts are informative and entertaining.

When you say you're "waiting for funds to buy an important piece of equipment", keep in mind that what's often short changed in these discussions is an awareness of analytical chemistry, and the end game often comes down to some attempt at analytical characterization. Add that aspect to your posts (e.g. beyond pictures), and I think you'd be writing some of the best stuff posted on forums, now or at any time in the past.

#84 tregar

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Posted 21 November 2007 - 01:07 PM

Thanks L-Dopa.

The last 200mg dose my friend and I took in dreams had us laughing uncontrollably (2 hours after taking the dose) at practically everything on a movie and the following tv shows that was the slightest bit funny, very therapeutic. It was essentially telling us not to take life so seriously, that it's ok to laugh for hours on end...very similar to the laughing fits that we've encountered in the past on acid, only this had us laughing even longer. Low doses can be therapuetic and fun. At other times I've enjoyed just listening to music and zoning out on the pretty colors, and enjoying the subtle euphoria, incredible meditative state...you never know what's gonna happen sometimes. The book "Lysergic" has a story about some people who took mescaline and laughed for hours too, "mescaline makes you laugh alot" is a quote from someone in the chapter on mescaline. In the book "Mysticism, sacred & profane" Professor R.C. Zaehner took 400mg of mescaline and laughed after every question the investigators (trip sitters) asked him, everything was just so damn funny. Laughter can be powerful medicine, mescaline seems to know what you need and when you need it. Mescaline is indeed powerful healing sacred medicine.

#85 Gringo Biloba

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Posted 24 November 2007 - 10:56 PM

Tregar, I've got another way for you around the HCl gas when crystalizing. Use Tartaric acid instead of HCl. It can be obtained from wine making supplies/u-brew type stores. It's a white crystaline solid and extremely easy to handle.
Next time you're at the end of your extraction and you have your dried solvent containing mescaline freebase, slowly, while stiring, start adding Tartaric acid and monitoring the pH. Keep adding until you get to 6.9 and then stop. Let the solution/suspension sit overnight in a refrigerator. Next day filter off your Mescaline.bitartrate crystals.
Hope you find this useful.

#86 tregar

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 09:10 PM

Thanks Gringo, I've got some 99.9% DL racemic tartaric acid in a container here that I got a few years ago from a wine making supplier, thanks for the tip on the tartaric salt, that's a first, never heard of mescaline tartrate before!

I know some people have had problems with trying to make the citrate of mescaline before, didn't come out too well...but I might be willing to try the tartrate if you think anyone has ever done it before.

I used that when working with LSA and friends as tartrate is the preferred salt for those agents.

#87 Gringo Biloba

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Posted 25 November 2007 - 11:26 PM

I imagine the citrate would be very hygroscopic and even if you managed to filter out some crystals, they would eventualy turn to puddles.
The tarate is quite common with various amphetamines and is actually used in the industry for racemic resolution (of isomers). It should work quite well.

#88 tregar

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 02:03 AM

Ahhh, thanks...sounds doable.

Very little on this, google only pulls up 2 listings for "mescaline tartrate" but here is one short thread on it from the nook: Board Message

Interesting.

#89 swine

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 09:34 AM

super sexy thread we have here. :loveeyes:
wow, cant believe ive never heard of adding an acid thats solid. even tho ive considered using citric acid for safety in the past, i always figured id dissolve it first. i suppose thatd be fine as well, however im still worried about having acid in the precipitate. if i try this i better get a better electronic ph meter, mine sucks.
heres an old correspondence with me about HCl(g) via CaCl2/HCl(aq).

Having never tried generating gas with HCl/CaCl2, I can't speak to its dryness... but what has been found is that natural mescaline is very highly sensitive to moisture in the gas... much more so than meth or pseudo for reasons that remain obscure... one can't go wrong in having multiple driers in the system. What happens when the gas isn't 100% anhydrous is that the mescaline precipitates in particles too small to be captured with any sort of mechanical filter. It isn't the end of the world, as one can still collect the drug with water, but it is something of a pain in the ass having to wait for the water to evaporate...

HOWEVER, i dont think hcl/cacl2 hcl gas is very wet at all...i remember reading at the hive that it should be very dry.
------
now, *important* safety note:
when using a respirator one must use the correct cartridge. the cartridges shown on tregars mask are 3M 6001 Organic vapor carts. hcl is inorganic, and hence that mask will not filter hcl and could trap hcl in the enviroment inside the mask. get the yellow 6003 cartridge.

#90 tregar

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 12:28 PM

Thanks swine. Yes, it is extremely dry, that's how I'm able to get white product so long as the xylene containing mescaline freebase is dried properly with dry epson salts (400 degrees F in the oven for 2 hours) Yes, the old hive is where this technique originated. The gas is not wet at all, it is very dry. I remember reading that gas derived from the use of aluminum foil and hcl would be quite wet though, and potentially dangerous process.

The pic I took does not show the two additional filter pieces that clip onto each of the sides, as I noticed later on that I forgot to show that. Stick with the best cartridge you can get that is guaranteed to fiter hcl gas as swine states. I own two different gas masks.

RE-CRYSTALLIZATION:

The re-crystallization can be used by anyone to turn even dirty sanchez or brown looking mescaline into crystal clear product.

Re-crystallization in a couple weeks, it's being done on a water bath, using a hotplate stirrer and a buret clamp fastened to a ring stand to hold the 250ml erlenmeyer flask in the water bath. Do not let the erlenmeyer flask containing the 150 ml of pre-dried MEK and the 3 grams of mescaline touch the bottom of the hotplate, it needs to be suspended in the water so it is not touching the bottom. Don't worry, the stir bar will still spin, as the magnetic pull from the hotplate/stirrer still works with the flask suspended up to 1" above the bottom. The water bath needs to come up to the level of the mek in the flask, or slightly below. Add boiling stones to the MEK in the flask. The water bath maintains a constant temp of 210 degrees, even at the lowest setting on the hotplate, the liquid dry mek inside the flask is maintained at a constant 192 degrees, mek boils at 176 degrees, it is slightly over the boiling temp, no big deal, this just means it boils away a little bit faster than normal. The bowl holding the water bath is a stainless steel mixing bowl, it sits on the hotplate/stirrer.

The hotplate has a built in stirrer, this is used to stir the mek after each addition of water dropplet, the water dropplets are added until the MEK goes from "cloudy" appearance to a "clear appearance". When the clear appearance is noted, no more water dropplets are to be added. Then just boil down the MEK until it starts to "shimmy", then take it off the hotplate and put it in the freezer, if crystals start to form after 2 hours, you have done well, if not, put it back on the hoplate and boil it down further, then put it back in the freezer and see if crystals start to form after 2 hours...

As the pure crystal matrix grows, the impurites are excluded from the growing crystal matrix. As the impurities are left behind they turn the MEK a brown or golden color. Filter out the pure cystals in a vacuum buchner cup over a #103 or #101 filter disc to catch them on top. Then rinse them with acetone. Then dissolve the crystals in a minimal amount of boiling hot distilled water, evaporate off the water and recover ultra-pure clean crystalline mesc. hcl.

The re-crystallization applies to all forms of mescaline, not just the mescaline derived from this tek...though this tek just gets you one step closer to white/translucent pure mescaline hcl. So I may start a new thread on how to do the re-crystallization.

Materials list:

* Ring stand
* Stainless steel mixing bowl to hold the water bath on the hotplate/stirrer
* Buret clamp (should have rubber jaws to hold grip on the flask, I don't like metal touching glass, or you can wrap plumbers tape around the jaws or the neck of the flask.) It's easy to find buret clamps with rubber coated jaws for about $7.
* 125 to 250 ML erlenmeyer flask
* distilled water and pipette to "dropper the drops of water in"
* 150 ML of pre-dried MEK (dry the mek in the can with dried epsom salts, decant off the top portion of the MEK above the rocks and then filter it thru a #103 filter disc)
* 3 grams of non-pure or dirty mescaline
* boiling stones (alumina or teflon typical boiling stones)
* hotplate with built in magnetic stirrer
* stir bar
* home made fume hood
* open back window
* electronic temperature probe/thermometer (about $12 from dept store, kitchen section), not necessary but handy to measure temp of the water bath.
* fridge and freezer - allow the slow growth of large crystals, move your post-boiled MEK to room temp, then to fridge, then to freezer overnight for the best largest crystal growth.
* fire extinguisher (for safety reasons on standby, can never be too safe)
* sand/wet towel (on standby for safety reasons, can never be too safe)
* safety goggles and gloves
* remember no open flames, no lit pilot lights, no smoking.

#91 tregar

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 02:33 PM

Re-crystallization continued...

1) Buret clamp with rubber coated jaws for suspending an erlenmeyer flask in the water bath.

2) Shown in second pic: hotplate/stirrer, stainless steel bowl, erlenmeyer flask, fire extinguisher.... not shown yet: buret clamp suspending the flask in the water about 1/2" to 1" above the bottom. You should not let the flask touch the bottom of the hotplate as shown in the pic.

The flask shouldn't be touching the bottom of the bowl. It does matter, because if it is touching, then the bottom of the flask will heat up hotter then the rest of the flask. This creates a heat gradient which stresses the glass, it's not as bad as just plucking it on a hot plate, but it's not good for it, and it's more likely to bump. Bumping is when the bottom of the liquid heats up hotter then the top, and then it super boils spraying stuff all over. Constant stirring, or boiling stones help stop this, but bumping is minimized by using a water or oil bath, rather then putting it on the heating element.

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#92 tregar

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 03:16 PM

Water bath with buret clamp (has rubber coated jaws $5), octagonal stir bar $4, 250ml erlenmeyer flask $6, stainless steel mixing bowl $5, ring stand that sits underneath the hotplate/stirrer. Flask is suspended in the water bath so the bottom of flask does not touch the bottom of the bowl. Water in the bath will come up to the liquid level of the 150ml MEK & 3 grams mescaline hcl in the flask. I could also use a 125 ML smaller erlenmeyer flask to hold the 150ml of MEK, will experiment to see which flask is better. Bottle of alumina boiling stones $12 (add 10 to 15 stones to the liquid in the flask).

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#93 tregar

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Posted 06 January 2008 - 08:27 PM

I was finally getting ready to do the re-crystallization of my mescaline hcl using MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, from the paint section) when my electronic scale broke, it completely lost power, it's not the adapter, it's putting out volts, but something inside the scale. I will have to fix it or order another one, that's the only reason my re-crystallization has not been started yet. I am finally getting some privacy to carry out the dream research but then the scale broke, so I am set back once again by about a week or so. I also don't have alot of leftover money to blow on a scale after bills, etc. I allready had to buy a hotplate/stirrer and other stuff you see above.

I need to be able to weight out 3 grams of mescaline hcl to put into the flask. I'm going to go ahead and use the 125 ml flask instead of the 250 ml flask.

I also want to be able to weight the resulting end re-crystallized product so I can compare beginning to ending weights.

Maybe someone will beat me to it, but please be patient, as soon as I get another scale, I will begin and post my results. I will be re-crystallizing mescaline of various shades from different extractions that I've saved up.

The super-dry gassing shown in this thread got me the closest to white mescaline. All of the past extractions using the typical foaf's tek have yielded brown mescaline .

I am extremely impressed with the quality of the mescaline from the gassing ....only 200mg for both of us had us laughing hard for hours, it was more potent than any of my past dozen or so mescaline hcl trips I've had in the past, and I don't quite understand why. I wonder if "density/compactness of the crystal matrix" has anything to do with it...hmmm.....that's something me! once speculated.

I also accidentaly discovered how to seperate the other "sedating alkaloids" from the mescaline hcl by using a simple micron filter.

The stuff that had us laughing for hours was the "total alkaloid" (ie, sedating + pure mescaline) from the trichocereus macrogonus:

This is a short trip report when my wife and I took 200mg of off-white Mescaline hcl produced by gassing with a handheld hcl gasser. It was then acetone cleaned and added to boiling hot water to drive off any remaining acetone residue. The clean mescaline was then scraped up from the dish after the hot water evaporated off. Very close to pure. A re-crystallization will be done on the stuff in the future to get it as pure as possible, to further increase potency.

We have never had a trip this potent with only 200mg. We watched the movie "election" with Matthew Broderick that just happened to come on tv, then we watched the movie "waiting" that happened to come on after it. Both movies are funny while sober.

But while under the influence of a small dose of this mescaline, the movies were overwhelmingly funny...after the initial 2 hour come up, we then both had un-controllable laughter for hours and hours, even after both movies were over, we were still laughing at just about anything on tv. We both had tears coming out of our eyes from laughing so hard. It was loads of fun....I've taken over a dozen trips on 200 to 300mg of tan Mescaline, but this trip just blew both of us away with it's insane potency at 200mg. Equal to 1 and a quarter hit of *very good acid*. We had never gotten laughing fits from mescaline ever before this time.

Mescaline is always enjoyable, fun & spiritual....but this was just so much fun we had laughing fits for hours, the same kind of laughing fit you get on good acid at low doses. Don't underestimate the power of cleaned up Mescaline, or nearly pure mescaline. Incredible substance, overwhelmingly positive & upbeat emotional state the entire time.


I might add that this was the "full-spectrum" gassed alkaloid product, with none of the sedating cactus alkaloids removed. These can be seperated out, I will explain later. But essentially the sedating alkaloids will fall thru and collect back in solution, while for the most part, the mescaline will collect and "stay with its own" on top the #103 filter. My wife and I both sampled the "sedating alkaloids" twice at doses of around 300mg, and they are indeed very very sedating...and have none of the same effects as mescaline.

My friend persona commented (concerning the re-crystallization process and why it's a good thing to do it):

The impurities within extracted cactus definitely can have a negative effect on the trip.

Having assayed both, I can say this from experience, as well as from a theoretical standpoint.

While it is true that losses will be greater purifying your product, the end result is a product that is cleaner, healthier, and overall more enjoyable.

I'd rather eat a little bit of black caviar than a lot of salmon caviar.

The losses from purification, if done properly, should be no more than 10-15%. Well worth it.

Edit: Oh yeah, and increasing the purity of a substance may or may not increase potency, depending on the impurities present. In this case, I would say that there is a but small increase in potency per fixed amount of weight - but that tiny increase is in part due the negation of the effects of the other alkaloids, so while quantitatively the increase was very small, qualitatively the increase was large.

I think tregar's post is an excellent affirmation of this.

Of course, he is one lucky person to get effects off such small doses. I think I could do full public appearance on any dose up to 400mg. Above that, I begin to get "real" effects.

200mg... I don't think I'd get much of anything on that. I wish I did though, mescaline is so damn impotent compared to other psychedelics.


I don't know if the "gassing" had anything to do with it, but when I gassed it, it caught all sorts of other alkaloids as well.

I ended up with a several gram pile of stuff that fell thru the #103 2.5 micron filter -- these were the sedating alkaloids, my wife and I tried then twice, both times they caused us to feel very sleepy, we were begging for a pillow even at 7pm, they are very very downing.

The stuff on top the filter was the pure mescaline.

The stuff that made us all giggly was the full spectrum stuff that was collected with water after the gassing--it contained both the mescaline and the other alkaloids that were sedating, I don't know if that had anything to do with why we got the laughing fits or not, but it sure was powerful, neither of us have ever had a low dose mescaline trip hit us that hard, it was a 2 hour comeup, then smooth sailing from there, that's when we were trip trip tripping big time off just 200mg.

I still have a big pile of the sedating alkaloids from the tricho macrogonus....see my gassing thread, it's easy to seperate them out if you want, but I seem to like the full alkaloid effect so far...it surely seems potent in the brain dept.

Imagine my disappointment when I ended up with over 3 grams of sedating alkaloids rather than mescaline--I took 300mg of the stuff that "fell through the filters" literally, and all it caused was extreme sedation, similar to a sleeping pill, has none of the euphoria, stimulation, of mescaline.

I then purposely took more of it and gave some to my wife twice, and again same thing...it acted as a sleeping pill, and there is quite a bit of this stuff in the trico. macrogonus anyways.

So you can have it two ways, you can take the full spectrum alkaloid or you seperate the sedating alkaloids from the pure mescaline and take only the pure mescaline, you can have your cake and eat it too basically.

From page 65 of Trout's Notes on San Pedro, 2005:

Trichocereus macrogonus -- Reported Analysis:

10-50 mg of total alkaloid per 100 gm. fresh;
Mescaline (MS, IR) (Over 50% of total alkaloid)
3.4 Dimethoxyphenethylamine (MS) (1-10% of total)
3-Methoxytyramine (MS) (1-10% of total alkaloid).
Tyramine (MS) (1-10% of total alkaloid)

I don't really want to call it pellotine, whichever one of those things above is sedating, then that's what it is....Which one could it be?

By the way, I gave this stuff to my wife twice by accident, thinking it was mescaline, and it made her extremely drowsy, she wanted to lay down and go to sleep the rest of the night as well--it is not stimulating at all, and has no euphoric qualities as mescaline does.

I took it twice myself, and my wife wanted to kick my ass for giving it to her--she complained for days about how tired it made her--and all I could say was "I don't know what happened! This wasn't supposed to happen!". I gave her and me both the pure sedating stuff that fell through the filters, thinking it was also mescaline (like the stuff that's ON TOP the filters--it IS mescaline), but the stuff that fell through is most assuredly not mescaline. It is good only as a sleeping pill imho, perhaps it plays some role when taken with mescaline to potentiate it -- nature often mixes uppers with downers--take kratom for example or poppy pods, have mix of upping stuff with downing stuff.

The 200mg each that we took in this trip report came from the 3rd and 4rth pulls, they were gassed of course, but then were collected directly via a water pull...no filtering or anything like that on the 3rd and 4rth pulls, so it got all the alkaloids, full-spectrum in other words.

This all sort of opens up a can of worms...so many questions become apparent:

1) Does gassing collect additional alkaloids that a typical a/b extract does not?

2) Why did 200mg have such a profound effect? Was it the extra downing alkaloids in the mix? Was it something else?

3) If somebody else builds the handheld gasser (and I promise it is NOT dangerous when used properly) maybe they can confirm my findings...you will also need a vacuum buchner setup and #103 filter discs (2.5 micron)...just gas your xylen, then filter it thru the disc...the mescaline will collect on top and the other alkaloids should fall on through the disc and collect back in a vacant jar. Then just extract that xylene jar with water to collect the "downing alkaloids". Now you will have two piles, mescaline in one, and downing alkaloids in the other. Combine them in the appropriate ratio, then trip....then compare to just the pure mescaline pile....which is more potent? Are there any subjective differences?

4) Free Spirit gets excellent results from the syrup....is it indeed possible to gas the xylene and end up with all the same alkaloids that are in the syrup? who knows until more people experiment...maybe, maybe not.

5) Lets take the pile on top the filter (the pure mescaline) and play with it and dose it several times--is it more potent?

6) One day we will need to NMR this stuff.

7) One thing we know for sure, is that my wife and I had a hell of a fun time with the mescaline, it was just as good as *good acid* from the effects we got, couldn't be happier...even the music tripped us out at this low dose...it sounded great....I've experienced laughing fits from good acid several times usually with at least a couple hits, and when it occurs, it is a thing of beauty not to be missed, entertainment for hours. Never have I had it happen with mescaline, but this stuff just hit really strong, we could tell by the way it came on, then transformed into this beautiful lucid laughing trip 2 hours after dropping.

I labeled it "pellotine" cause that's what Dr. Heffter named the downing alkaloids in peyote he sampled. There are 2 or 3 I think though, all with similar names.

QUOTE

In Heffter's experiments pellotine was found to be physiologically feeble, one-thirteenth grain (0.005 Gm.) causing only temporary stiffness in the legs of the frog, two-thirteenths grain (0.01 Gm.) producing stiffness, heightened reflexes, strychnine-like tetanus, lasting from three to four days, ending in recovery. In man, from seven-tenths to nine-tenths of a grain (0.045-0.058 Gm.) produced only temporary sleeplessness with sense of weariness. Pilcz (W. K. W., ix, 1896) has used pellotine as a calmative in fifty-eight cases of insanity in doses of from one-third to one grain (0.021-0.065 Gm.). About half the cases were markedly affected, sleep coming on in from half an hour to an hour and a half after the hypodermic injection and continuing through the night. No disagreeable results and no collapse occurred, although Langstein is said to have seen collapse following the dose of seven-tenths of a grain (0.045 Gm.).

http://www.heffter.o...view2/chap2.pdf (lots of info on the sedating alkaloids here, first few pages)

200 to 300mg of this stuff will knock you on your ass no problem, it will put you to sleep and keep you asleep imho. A pillow is your best friend if you take it.

#103 (2.5 micron) filter discs can be found on ebay.
Vacuum filter buchner funnel and cup can be found on ebay too, I used a deluxe food saver to generate the vacuum, used the vacuum "port" hole on the food saver, it comes with a hose, you just wrap a little plumbers tape around the hose so it mates to the tube coming off the buchner filter flask, and you have a strong vacuum at the touch of a button, or can use a faucet and aspirator. The mescaline tends to "keep to its own" as persona pointed out to me, that's why the crystals stay together on top the filter.

Clean the mescaline on top the filter with acetone at least 3 times, rinse it with lots of acetone, dry the acetone beforehand to reduce loss, then drive off the acetone fumes by adding the resulting white powder to some hot water, let water evaporate, then scrape up the mescaline from the pyrex dish when dry. Perform a re-crystallization if you are adventurous and want it really pure (my next project in the works).

For the stuff below the filter that collected back into the xylene, just pour the jar into a sep funnel, you will see the "other alkaloids" collect together in a pile at the bottom of the sep funnel, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of boiling hot water to the sep funnel, the alkaloids will collect in the water immediately, then drain off the bottom water layer quickly within 15 seconds or less to get it as clean as possible, then take the water and evaporate it off, recover the alkaloids, they will be pretty close to white or transparent looking on the pyrex, scrape them up and clean them with acetone/mortar & pestal/cotton in a funnel/rinse cotton with hot water, evaporate off the hot water to recover alkaloids when dry. My "other alkaloids" looked like ice shards, very transparent looking when on the pyrex dish before you scrape them up. When I first did this, I mistakenly though it was mescaline, sampled 200mg of it the first time, made me tired as hell, then took 300mg a second time, made me even more tired, wife had to prod me over and over to try to keep me awake while we watched a movie, but it did not work, I got really upset when she didn't allow me to sleep, all I wanted to do was sleep, I kept dozing out over and over, finally I just went to bed. Then wife sampled the material at two different doses, made her tired as hell too at 7pm, doesn't matter what time you take it, you will want to pass out. This ate up all of several weeks, two different doses, two different people, one week apart dosing for both people. After 4 trials, I get upset because I can't figure out why the "mescaline didn't work at all", wife gets upset and wants to kick my ass for giving her "supposed mescaline" but she knew better too, it was definately not mescaline, we both get upset cause all this work, no results, so I go to the forum, and then we figure out what happened. The entire time we were only taking the stuff that fell thru the filter. We both then take the "real mescaline" a week later and all is good again.

Sample pile 1 (mescaline) by itself on one day, then sample pile 2 by itself on another day...we found all the stuff that fell thru the filter to be heavily sedating, it hits pretty hard after about 1 to 2 hours, have pillow on standby.

Add pile 1 (mescaline on top the filter alkaloids) to pile 2 (misc. alkaloids that fell thru the filter) to get full-alkaloid spectrum material.

I extracted 1kg of trico. macrogonus...

If you end up filtering the gassed xylene from pulls 1, 2, 3, and 4, you should end up with approximately 2 to 3 grams of "other sedating alkaloids", using tricho. macrogonus leaving around 9 grams on top the filter overall of "pure mescaline".

I only filtered pulls 1 and 2 which gave me 1.5 grams of "other alkaloids" below the filter. With 4.5 grams on top of mescaline.

The pulls 3 and 4 were collected directly with water, there was no filtering, so they were full spectrum, this was the "giggly material" we sampled at 200mg each, and it hit hard & strong for some reason, we have never experienced anything quite like it before at such a low dose....still a little bit of a mystery. Keep in mind that not many people have experimented with gassed material either...still in its infancy. I refer to our trip as "laughing gas mescaline" It felt funny during the come up, for the 1st 2 hours, as if we knew that it was gonna be strong...we were not prepared for the somewhat strong come up, then at 2 hours, it was all but heavenly, smooth sailing for the next many many hours till 2am, utter bliss.

By the way, my wife got tired taking only 80mg of this "other alkaloid" material all by itself...she did not fall asleep on 80mg, but she stated she wanted to take a nap, she got really drowsy around 7pm after taking it at 5:30pm, I only took 200mg and 300mg of it, made me very tired after 1 to 2 hours. I tried to fight it, I really did, but you just can't win...it would make a great sleeping pill. Dr. Heffter talks at length about the sleepy effects from some alkaloids that were seperated from peyote in the paper I linked to earlier at Heffter Research Institute.

I collected pulls 1 and 2 differently from pulls 3 and 4 for the sake of science to experiment with different methods of collection.

It really wasn't worth doing a 5th pull, it only returned a very small pile of material, about 3/4 of a gram.

I know this is bound to be highly controversial, I'm just stating our experience with it, as I do know that no one here has actually used #103 filter disc to filter gassed product except myself so far...me! did not use these discs as he wanted to use materials that were available to everyone, such as coffee filters, sep funnel only, etc. Others will have to experiment with this process to confirm my findings. It was not my intention to "open up a can of worms", but it is what it is.

Anyways, I just wanted to mention my findings concerning the "other alkaloids" I discovered in trico. macrogonus. Don't let anybody tell you that there is "just mescaline" in these cactus...there is a pretty nice little percentage of other alkaloids as well. Somebody should try this process with bridgesii to seperate the other alkaloids out.

My personal scientific discovery was that 1kg of trichocereus macrogonus cactus contained 1 part "sedating alkaloids" to 3 parts "pure mescaline". The "other sedating alkaloids" can be easily seperated out using a #103 (2.5 micron) filter disc. Just combine both piles together to get the "full effect", or you can just take 1 part sedating alkaloids to 3 parts pure mescaline to get the same full-spectrum reaction. Or you can now seperate out the "pure mescaline" all by itself to take on it's own without the "sedating alkaloids". Keep in mind that some people have experienced very powerful visuals using the whole cactus syrup and a "godly experience" in some trip reports I have read while not getting the same quantity/quality experience when using only pure mescaline as a comparison. It's up to you to figure out what you like best. It could be the opposite for you...who knows? This is all fairly new, cutting edge stuff. The only way we will know is thru experimentation by others.

Some people prefer the "syrup" to "pure mescaline", I believe this may be one way, via gassing to collect the "full spectrum alkaloid" effect of the whole syrup in crystalline form. Others can find no difference between the "boiled down cactus syrup" and "pure extracted mescaline". It is subjective.

A few people who enjoy the "syrup":

Kube:

with closed eyes vivid landscapes in the desert with blue and yellow geometric patterns on tric. macrogonus tea/syrup.

free spirit:

w/ mescaline i find the visuals to be very unique. moreso on syrup than on pure. using trich. macrogonus as well too.

the visuals were not distortion based like shrooms and acid seem to do. the visuals instead were like 'slid' over the existing imagery. like laying a stencil over it. (for example, i could see the wall and the chair, and they werent distorted at all, but overlaying it all were these intricate patterns)
w/in these visuals, ive seen various different landscapes. interestingly they tended to favor mayan or incan themes. temples, or vast statues and walls that were like canvases.
lots of geometric shapes...

never gotten the same visuals on pure mescaline. only the foul foul syrup!

Afro88:

Exactly the same visuals I've had in my mescaline experiences. I used Pedro and boiled it into a tea. Definite incan theme, blocky angular shapes and characters. At one stage there were about 20-30 squares overlaid onto each wall of the room aligned up into a perfect grid that all uniformly moved horizontally towards the corner, while shifting between the colours blue, red and green. Amazing stuff, I felt extremely grounded and blissful the whole time.


Now on the crystal:

droop23:

I've been wondering a lot about the high doses people report taking too. For me 300mg of hcl (very light tan/yellow) is definitely a full psychedelic experience with complex 3D CEV, simple 3D and complex 2D OEV, intense flights of imagination, deconstruction of the ego leading towards recall of Buddha-mind, etc. 450mg of hcl ramps the OEV up to complex 3D/4D, can detach me completely from my body/surroundings, and causes my whole being to vibrate with intense energy. I've done up to 350 at shows,etc but can't imagine going much higher in a situation where I'd have to retain at least some control. 450 requires a "safe place" for at least the peak if not much of the ascent. It's been a long time since I've had any acid, but I'd compare 300mg hcl to maybe 150 mcgs of lsd and 450 to about 250mcgs...... Interesting how different all our heads are....

I'll now return to the original topic and get back to posting more on the re-crystallization in a week or two.

#94 prosrman

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Posted 19 January 2008 - 06:44 PM

thanks much tregar. huzzAH!

swim would recommend drying the nonpolar even if you intend to titrate because it removes the impurities and lye stuck to the water.

when gassing, swim prefers to drip 28% HCl onto 90% H2SO4 with magnetic stirring. the vapors are led through a tube packed with CaCl2, then a suckback trap, then bubbled into the nonpolar/freebase solution. tregar's method is also quite viable. generating gas using HCl(aq) + NaCl + heat is not recommended.

a $30 mask will not help you, a proper full-face HCl-reducing mask costs $300 but you don't need it and you don't need a fume hood either. simply keep some NaOH solution handy to bubble excess gas into once your freebase is titrated if excess pressure remains in the system. once the pressure has stabilized excess acid can be poured down the drain with cold running water.

swim recommends placing a piece of ordinary white paper over the opening of the nonpolar/freebase jar while gassing. stop gassing immediately when the paper begins to change color, it is a litmus indicator that registers quickly and will prevent you from overgassing.

hive bee unda the sea,
-prosrman

#95 tregar

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Posted 20 January 2008 - 07:44 PM

Nice tips prosrman, thanks. Long live the bees.

#96 tregar

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Posted 05 February 2008 - 04:54 PM

This thread is being continued here:

Please post all questions and comments pertaining to mescaline hcl re-crystallization/purification here:

http://mycotopia.net...t-w-photos.html
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