Rolling with his ideas, I have been playing around with it for a few months. I have done two dozen sandbags, different ways, with varying results. Here is what I am currently doing, which has produced far greater results than any other method thus far while still staying inside a sandbag and neglecting it for a long time.
Basically, you start off with your sandbag of choice. Mine are 12x10x24 gusseted polybags. Add a container, which here I have been using 11x12 aluminum pans. You wrap the inside of the pan in a bag of some sort. The pan itself will reduce side and bottom pinning, which have been my greatest nuisances while using this TEK. The bag just helps to keep the pan from being ruined for future use.
You then place this into your sandbag firmly on the bottom. If you ever decide to mist your bag for any reason, RH, this will also allow the water to collect underneath the pan eliminating the risk of over soaking your sub. I do mist occasionally between flushes.
I then pull out my already prepared spawn. In this case it was an isolate of Arg, on a popcorn G2G. I spawned 1 pint of Arg, and then transferred into a container like(5 pints of popcorn already pasteurized) this with 4 holes stuffed with Polyfil. Allowed to fully colonize. Total time for this was about 5 days.
I then pulled out three pint jars, that I had prepped 2 days earlier. One jar was field capacity Very coarse(large) Verm Pasteurized. The other 2 jars pictured are of a 60/40 Pasteurized Coir/Verm. This will be for my Casing Layer. All Pasteurization was done at 15psa for 90 min. This is overkill some have said, but I don't like to take risks so I Pasteurize everything to the best of my ability. All Casing matter was moistened, loaded in loose jars, and PC'd.
I then empty my fully colonized Grain into the pan after spraying some Oust in the area. I of course wear gloves with all work. The Grain is broken up and distributed somewhat all over pan. I then empty my jar of moist Verm in with this, and mix evenly and smoothly. Thus we have a Rez-Effect within a Sandbag.
Next I seal the bag up with a rubberband. With the shape of the pan, and design of the gusseted polybag, the bag stand upright far better than a standard sandbag on its own. No more need to hang in someway or tie up. The shape allows in moisture from the RH to run down sides of bag, and not drip onto you spawn and damage any Myc.
Now we use a clean knife to cut small holes into the bag, about 1/2-3/4" holes that you will stuff wit polyfill. I have found that more holes around the sub work far better than a few. This pan method also makes it far easier to control the polyfil and keep it from getting tangled up with your spawn, which was another big problem. Trust me, not fun to pull polyfil of every fruit.
So I place the holes about one inch about the edge of pan, and place a hole every 5-6". Then place a hole on each short side 1/2 way up the bag. Then a hole on everyside at the top about 2" below rubberband. I did alot of playing with hole placement and the FAE in these bags, and this has worked the best thus far.
Final results should look something like this.
This bag is then placed back into incubation condition for around 3 days. Once knotting starts, the casing layer will be applied in about 1/2" proportions.casing all the way around but about 1" from egde.
Remember, this is a NEGLECT TEK. Once your bag is fruited, whether your case or not, just sit back and watch or don't watch. Check on it in about 7-10 days and you will be ready for harvest. No fanning required, not misting. It's all set to take care of it's self. After first flush, a dunk or misting may help, but I went 2 strong flushes with nothing.
This will also serve as my grow log to show this method. This is my third run this style, first with casing. The first two produced very nice flushes, around 2oz dry each bag between 2 flushes. I'm hoping to go for 3 with adding the casing layer post-knotting. May also dunk this, as I have some other bags.
