Fruiting in greenhouse.....
Posted 20 December 2007 - 09:51 PM
Just seems to be taking long for this batch.....
Its 3 pints of wbs spawned to 3 pints of straw/composted cpoo, fully colonized in a 2.5 gallon zip lock into a log shape sorta, cased with coir. Introduced light to it one week before i cased (after full colonization of sub) and dropped temps to fruiting (75-76) in my closet. after the week was over, i added the casing layer and put it into the greenhouse to start its pinning/fruiting cycle. Still no signs of myc trying to attach itself to the casing layer or signs of knots/pins after a week.
Posted 20 December 2007 - 11:40 PM
Posted 20 December 2007 - 11:56 PM
i just misted today for the first time, it was medium brown looking, instead of dark brown. i will continue to do so. after i get pins, do i want to continue misting? or wait till first flush is done to resume misting?
Yep , u still need to mist exposed casings, as they will gradually lose moisture with an 80%RH...That may or may not be the reason for slow growth..It's pretty easy to tell when coir is drying out by the color change..If it's moist then there may be some other reason..
is there any good videos or threads reguarding standardized proper procedures on running a gh? I have the video from youtube (800 megs) of mushy cultivation about pf cakes and rye berries and agar multispore. But they just use little terrariums like tubs and 10 gallon fish tanks. Havent seen anything like the sort for gh growing. Would love any info on this to help me stay ahead in the knowledge department :)
Posted 21 December 2007 - 12:39 AM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 01:17 AM
you should be able bump up humidity if you stick another humidifier in there. 80 is pushing it imo. I get 95% with two cool-mists in a 6x7 room. hardly ever have to spray'em down, plus they dont get dried out mid-fruit.
this is casings, not cakes. it was my understanding that casings like 80% humidity, whereas the cakes need 99-100% . is this wrong?
Posted 21 December 2007 - 08:34 AM
It can be beneficial to gradually expose the trays to more fresh air as they move toward fruiting..If your new casings are initially covered with foil, then a gradual loosening of the cover helps to conserve moisture as the sub matures..
It's either that or more frequent misting when the RH is on the low side..
80% is slightly low but doable..
It is of great importance to have the optimum moisture content in a sub as pinning time nears..Hopefully yours have not dried down too much..
Posted 21 December 2007 - 09:34 AM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 03:49 PM
cubies is what i am growing by the way, gc strain on wbs spawned to poo/straw with coir casing layer.
Posted 21 December 2007 - 06:05 PM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 06:25 PM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 07:12 PM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 10:25 PM
You've got some greenhouse issues you need to work out. All of the inputs should've been piped in at the bottom of the greenhouse to be honest. Don't feel bad, I did the exact same thing sort of. Not through the roof, but the last tier wall. IMHO i'd get rid of the coolmist you're using for FAE and would go to a straight up fan that's mounted in a box. Put it on a timer to come on once and hour for 15 minutes. Timers are cheap. One thing about piping the humidifier through the roof is, all of the moisture that's being piped in falls straight down. You'll also need to get yourself a small fan that can take a bit of moisture, put that on the shelf of the first tier. Screw this. Do you want to see a photo of the one I have that's the same size as yours?
Something else, can you afford a $110 humidistat?
Posted 21 December 2007 - 10:39 PM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 11:01 PM
Posted 21 December 2007 - 11:35 PM
Posted 22 December 2007 - 12:32 AM
Here's the greenhouse that's the same as your's that I have. The FAE fan can be mounted anywhere, but the ultrasonic should be piped in to the first tier's wall. This way the moisture from that's being pumped in doesn't fall on your projects, it rises up with a fan. I have a fan on the bottom shelf that keeps the moisture from doing that. Really, it doesn't matter if you have a fan, in which you should to keep things evened out in there.
The fan is on a timer to come on once an hour for 15 minutes.
Posted 23 December 2007 - 12:01 AM
Posted 23 December 2007 - 12:35 AM
what is your timer settings?
foaf finds that you can get a chamber that size completely working with only 20 minutes every two hours. or 10 minutes of humidifier and airflow time per hour.
here is an excellent timer. it has 14 on and off settings a day. it may be something as simple as lowering your airflow. if you find your casings are drying out too fast. yes you can mist, but you want your airflow a bit lower not to dry anything out. especially when it comes to casings. if your fruiting cakes, keep your rh at 100% at all times.
this is available at home depot for around 20$.
Intermatic Timers - Consumer Indoor Timers - Digital Timers - DT17C
sometimes you can eye the rh just by looking at the condensation on the sides. id say in your pic above you are at or close to 100%. the sides are drenched. does your humidifier push out heavy airflow?
but this isn't always the case. ill show you a pic below of a chamber that has 100% rh and you can't even tell by looking at it. it has very slow airflow and nothing dries out. in fact, misting doesn't even need wasn't even done on some of these trays. if you have more airflow in one chamber than another, this may have to be adjusted. but in this case. it all worked well.
if it is your airflow, you may need to regulate that by a timer.
then when you get everything working perfectly. you can change the timer setting to drop the rh a bit.
although from the way the coir looks in the pictures. your moisture level looks to be fine. so this may not be the problem it may be just a matter of waiting just a bit more till something happens. and now after reading your last post, looks like everything is working for you.