
Pan Cyan FC setup
#21
Posted 12 January 2008 - 01:00 PM
fahtster
#22
Posted 19 January 2008 - 04:11 PM
Do you think it plays a significant/necessary role in increasing RH with the setting and timing you have it on?
I've setup two "FedPan" tubs exactly as you've shown here, all except for the heating pad. I've used a heating pad before, so I know how much it can help if it's on for any length of time. For my current setup though, I have the entire room(about 6'x7') kept around a constant temp of 80-82F. Do you think this will work well enough without a heating pad?
#23
Posted 19 January 2008 - 05:04 PM
A few years back hardly anyone grew Pan cyans,
today they're as common as cubensis around here.
It's threads like this which have helped demystify the cyan.
#24
Posted 19 January 2008 - 11:02 PM
I've setup two "FedPan" tubs exactly as you've shown here, all except for the heating pad. I've used a heating pad before, so I know how much it can help if it's on for any length of time. For my current setup though, I have the entire room(about 6'x7') kept around a constant temp of 80-82F. Do you think this will work well enough without a heating pad?
Sounds like it should work well, my only concern is that the inside of the fc is a higher temp usually than the outside; due to thermogenesis. Mabye kick the room temps down a few degrees 77-80f for optimal fc temps . Then you'll be on a gravy train with biscuit wheels :thumbup:
-feds
#25
Posted 24 January 2008 - 05:57 AM
I will do everything I can to help this be a Pantastic world Jim, thank you so much for your kind words :bow:
Sounds like it should work well, my only concern is that the inside of the fc is a higher temp usually than the outside; due to thermogenesis. Mabye kick the room temps down a few degrees 77-80f for optimal fc temps . Then you'll be on a gravy train with biscuit wheels :thumbup:
-feds
Hmmm, I hadn't thought of that. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks feds.
#26
Posted 05 February 2008 - 05:24 PM
by: BuckarooBanzai
The Tropic Air unit is just a plastic box with a sponge inside of it. There is an aqauarium stone in the bottom and a VERY cheap/loud air pump included. You could build one for less than $15 in parts from Wal Mart.
A jar with an air stone on the bottom and then stuffed fully of polyfill works better than the Tropic Air, IME. Also, if you spend $30 on your air pump instead of $10, it will put out far more air and make far less noise. In the aquarium air pump world, the more you pay for it, the less noise it makes...
If you add 1/2 cup of bleach to the Perlite once every two weeks, you don't have to worry about cleanup/contamination. My Perlite hasn't been cleaned/changed for 4 months. Be aware, the grow room will have a mild "moist chlorine" smell, almost like a pool.
#27
Posted 28 April 2008 - 04:24 PM
just a couple questions:
-the holes that you drilled in the bottom, would it be beneficial to cover the holes with tyvek, to allow for the CO2 to escape, but keep the humidity in?
-with the perlite layer plus the tropicaire, is it ever too wet, or is the point to get it as close to 100% humidity as possible? (im using cubes)
-if you had the finances, would it also be beneficial to add a CO2 controller, and potentially elimate the CO2 from the air as much as possible, to allow for more oxygen?
-and for heat, you suggested a heat mat; if you had heat mats, would you be able to use the heat controller inside such a moist environment?
(http://www.amazon.co..._sim_hi_title_2)
-does the heating pad/mat ever get hot enough to melt the plastic bin?
sorry for asking so many questions; this is the best self-automated set up i've seen- i'd like to maximize the potential!
again, fantastic! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
#28
Posted 28 April 2008 - 06:49 PM
2. cubies need about 85-90% rh during fruiting IF cased, cakes need about 100%.
3. co2 controller useless as is extra oxygen.
#29
Posted 28 April 2008 - 07:50 PM
i like the heat controller it seems like it could definitely come in handy
#30
Posted 28 April 2008 - 08:01 PM
#31
Posted 28 April 2008 - 08:14 PM
ill keep everyone updated
#32
Posted 28 April 2008 - 08:17 PM
It's very easy to overheat the sub ,even with a controller..It's important to place the thermal sensor under the tray and over the mat...Also verify the actual temp with a thermometer when first setting up...
#33
Posted 28 April 2008 - 10:10 PM
#34
Posted 04 July 2008 - 01:28 AM

This is a unit which I made recently but haven't tested completely because my present setup is already moist enough.
Simply a screwtop tupperware container with the exit tubing siliconed to the lid.
At the base is a flat round aquarium airstone on top of which is a layer of kitchenwipe cloth(the type with heaps of holes) and perlite added.
The hole at the base is larger than the tubing to allow the free passage of water since the unit is designed to sit in water to a depth that covers the airstone.
Salt and/or bleach may be added to the water for sterility.
There is sometimes a little bubbling from the lower hole when the unit is first turned on but this soon subsides to just moist fresh air exiting the upper tube.
I think it works much better than the tropic-aire and I hope someone can check this out and report back here. :rasta:
#35
Posted 04 July 2008 - 02:48 AM
:eusa_clap
#37
Posted 04 September 2008 - 04:13 PM