Re-crystallization of mescaline hcl attempt w/photos
Posted 06 February 2008 - 12:12 AM
I have used the deluxe food saver for many years now, and it has never broken, it pulls the strongest vacuum I have ever had the pleasure of using, this thing kicks serious ass, great for use when using a buchner vacuum flask. I have no idea what the pull of it is though. It never struggles, just keeps on going, if it does shut down, you just re-hit the vacuum canister button and it continues on...plus it packs a mean steak.
side by side
.6 grams perfect snow white / 2.10 grams pretty close
both have the consistency of talcum or baby powder, extremely fine and dense -- will disappear into the skin if rubbed on it, it is that super-fine.
Posted 06 February 2008 - 01:53 PM
Have you tried it yet? Let us know how it goes.. :]
Posted 06 February 2008 - 09:22 PM
This procedure will clean green, yellow, orange, and brown colored mescaline! So if you are concerned about impurities like I am, this works.
The reason why all of the 3 grams of mescaline did not come out perfect snow white was because I believe I added way too many water droplets after the MEK started boiling at 180 degrees F.
I added 80 drops of distilled water, when I should have added maybe 10 to 20 drops.
I will be doing this re-crystallization procedure again someday in dreams, but this time I will get the water drop ratio more on target, so I end up with a majority of perfect white product.
Here's the theory behind the MEK & water re-crystallization:
Tregar asked many years ago:
Can the sanchez just be added to boiling MEK on a hotplate outside, allowed to cool, then put in freezer for a while till xtals formed, then filtered off under vacuum? Or is there more to it than that, what is with the adding of distilled water to get out cloudiness...don't understand any of that.
No, that wouldn't work because mescaline.hcl is practically insoluble in MEK, but it is soluble in water. The MEK thing is a dual solvent recrystalisation: MEK and water. The impurities are soluble in both water and mescaline, but are slightly more soluble in MEK then the mescaline is. That's why the mescaline will drop out first.
This has to be done quite precisely because if you add too much water, then not all your mescaline will precipitate out. But if you don't add enough water, then the impurities stay stuck to mescaline powder instead of dissolving into the solution. So you have to use well dried MEK, and once it's boiling, you add 1 drop of water at a time, just until all the mescaline powder dissolves. This gets both the impurities and the mescaline dissolved in the MEK/water mix. And then the solution becomes clear instead of shimmery. It would help if you could stir the solution with a glass rod in between water drop additions, as this helps get everything mixed round well, and would help to avoid adding too much water.
After getting the mescaline powder to dissolve, you boiling the solution to drive off the water (along with some of the MEK) until the solution becomes saturated (shimmery again). The loss of some of the water is what makes some of the mescaline precipitates out as tiny seed crystals. When the solution is cooled down, the rest of the mescaline grows on those crystals, forming large ones. The impurities stay in the solution.
This procedure is definately an art and not a precise science...you have to be really good at determining how many drops to add (once the MEK starts boiling at 180 degrees) to go from "cloudy" to "clear".....after that you boil it down till it starts to "shimmy" or you see crystals start to precipitate out and cling to the inside of the flask, forming a sort of "ring" of very tiny crystals.
Then you turn off the hotplate and transfer to freezer or cool by going from hot-->room temp--->fridge--->freezer for super large cystals to form. I just put it straight into the freezer, and collected the crystals 8 hours later.
Please, if anyone has done this before in dreams and can help answer my question....
1) HOW MANY DROPS OF WATER DID YOU ADD to get your boiling solution to go from "cloudy" to "clear" ??? -- someone I know of in the past has gotten this process to work perfectly, can you add some input for us? please? thanks.
2) When your mek solution was boiling with the mescaline what color was it? It seems that if your solution is cloudy but "clear" that it's easier to determine how many drops of water you need to make it "clear". My solution was light orange/yellow colored, so this is what made it so hard to tell when I went from "cloudy" to "clear", hence my overshooting or even undershooting the amount of water drops to add.
- Root likes this
Posted 06 February 2008 - 10:49 PM
I used about 5 dropper fulls (80 drops) which was too many drops.
Had I used 24 drops (1.5 dropper full) I would have had about 2.7 grams of all perfect snow white mescaline hcl in dreams.
Then it only takes a few minutes to boil it down to where it shimmys (or you start to see tiny seed cystals precipitate out) then you take it off the heat, this is correct, it only takes a few minutes of boiling after the drops of water are added to get it boiled down to the shimmy stage.
Now I know.
Posted 08 February 2008 - 09:34 AM
Posted 08 February 2008 - 11:17 AM
I have been looking into $50+ buchner setups with hand pumps and trying to justify spending that much but this is great!!!
what is that box in the middle a check valve?
Posted 08 February 2008 - 01:39 PM
What I did was buy the $60.00 large buchner kit, throw away the hand pumps (they are virtually useless) and attach the hose to the deluxe food saver vacuum port, works great. Has worked for years. Use plumbers tape to mate the hose from the deluxe food saver to the hose coming off your glass buchner flask. Just check out the photo above and you'll see how to do it. No check valve needed. That thing you see inbetween the hoses is just a piece that comes mounted to the hose that comes with the deluxe food saver, it is a mating nipple.
This is a GREAT LAST STEP! It really is very easy and takes up only an hour or so. Most of the waiting is just waiting for the water bath to get to temp...do this in a fumehood though, cause boiling MEK smells kinda strong.
No open flames, no cigarette smoking, no lit pilot lights, and you are good to go. Have fire extinguisher nearby just in case, but you will not need it.
Put 3 grams mesc in 125 mL of dry MEK, add stir bar...you will not need boiling stones if you have a stir bar.
Then heat up your water bath...when the temp of the water bath reaches 180 degrees, the MEK will boil.
Then add 16 to 22 drops of distilled water till it turns "clear".
Then just boil it down (takes only 5 minutes) tell you see tiny crystals start to fall out and gather in a ring.
Put in freezer, collect crystals 8 hours later, rinse with a small amount of acetone, dissolve crystals in hot water if you want and evaporate off the water in a pyrex brownie dish...scrape up your mescaline...it's ready now.
To get even better plates of crystals, let your flask cool down to room temp, move to fridge, then move to freezer.
If you start off with brown mescaline, when you add it to the 125 ml of MEK, it will turn a brownish or color similar to coca-cola. No matter what color your mescaline, or the amount of impurities, this process will work to get it clean.
Posted 16 February 2008 - 05:49 PM
So next time I will be recrystallizing 2.0 grams of mescaline in 100 mL of dry MEK, and once the MEK starts boiling at 180 degrees F, I will add about 11 drops of water (or around this amount till the solution goes from "cloudy" to "clear"), then boil it down till it starts to "shimmy" or until tiny crystals start to crash out of solution and collect on the inner flask walls.
This is what we know so far (given):
*** 3 grams mescaline in 150 ML dry MEK requires around 16 drops (1 dropperful water) added when boiling at 180 degrees F.
Set up a proportion.
*** 3 grams is to 150 ML dry MEK as 2 grams is to X mL of dry MEK.
So that means, if I want to re-crystallize just 2 grams, then...I should use about 100 ML of dry MEK.
*** 3 grams is to 16 drops of water (1 dropperfull) as 2 grams is to X drops.
So that means, if I want to re-crytallize just 2 grams in 100 ML dry MEK, then I will need to add only about 11 drops of water to the boiling MEK.
Conclusion: 2 grams is to 100 ML dry MEK will require about 11 drops of water added when boiling to yield good results in the freezer.
Update: The 2.10 grams of mescaline came out perfect snow-white color.
Will show pics soon.
Posted 17 February 2008 - 12:26 AM
Posted 17 February 2008 - 07:20 AM
Posted 17 February 2008 - 02:43 PM
Could you tell us how you separated the pure mescaline from the rest of the alkaloids?
Posted 17 February 2008 - 05:26 PM
Cactuswren, I have found that if you gas your xylene which contains the mescaline freebase (and other alkaloids) you will capture ALL of the alkaloids in the cactus, not just the mescaline, so your end product will be a mix of all the alkaloids in the cactus (full-spectrum), not just the mescaline. I have seperated the other alkaloids from the mescaline, and they are very sedating, will actually put you to sleep if you take 100 to 300mg of these "other alkaloids". The gassed product (all white still) is very similar to injesting cactus tea. See the gassing thread for more info. Gassing leaves nothing behind, it gets it all. Glad you enjoyed the thread. Yes I agree that chocking down the cactus in raw form or injesting cactus tea is one of the hardest things to do. It will NEVER be popular and serves as a deterrent to casual experimentation, recreational use etc.
Thanks for the info. That's what I'd like; gassed, full spectrum, Peyote or San Pedro powder. Unfortunately, I'm not comfortable trying this without some direct guidance/supervision. I know you think it is relatively easy to do, but I just don't think it's as simple as baking a cake. Maybe I should put up a want add in the chemistry Dept. at the Univ. "Wanted: knowledgeable chemist to assist and teach full spectrum extraction of psychotropic cactus". :lol:
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:31 PM
Maybe I should put up a want add in the chemistry Dept. at the Univ. "Wanted: knowledgeable chemist to assist and teach full spectrum extraction of psychotropic cactus".
Hi stochatic. Yes, it's very easy to do...I go over how to do this in the gassing thread.
Could you tell us how you separated the pure Mescaline from the rest of the alkaloids?
I'll post it again here, but in a shortened more easily understood form:
If there is any thread that should be starred, it should be this one, as the culmination of all the work I posted is easily explained here in a shortened more easily understood form.
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:33 PM
Poet & Writer Junger wrote this after tripping on psilocybin with Dr. Hoffman (from "LSD, my problem child"):
Mescaline is the finest psychoactive substance SWIM knows of... all the power of LSD but none of the freak out of shrooms... beautiful multicolored visuals surpassing either Psilocin or LSD... yet it is characterised by an extreme feeling of peace and well being and connectedness to Everything That Is... SWIM has never heard of anyone ever having a bad trip on the stuff... never, ever, ever... it is very, very kind...
This is the ghetto handheld gasser -- requires no sulfuric acid, no glass, no epoxy, no jb weld, no plumbers tape, no multiple jars or anything that will leak, and it's disposable. All 3 parts screw together or fit together perfectly real fast.
More light was hidden in the dark grain that burst from the ear, more yet in the green juice of the succulents on the glowing slopes of Mexico...[Translator's note: Junger is referring to LSD, a derivative of Ergot , and Mescaline , derived from the Mexican peyotyl cactus.]
The gassing was unevenful--I was scared to death to do this because I've never made a gasser before...but my fears were layed to rest after I put it together and used it--possibly the easiest way to salt mesc I've ever used.
I've used it 3 times since...easy and safe.
Materials needed for the handheld ghetto gasser:
#1 91% isopropyl alcohol HDPE 32 fl oz (946mL) bottle from w******.
#2 Watts A-300A i.d. barb to mip adapter 3/8" by 1/2" from h*** d****.
#3 25' roll of watts polyethylene 1/2" by 3/8" tubing used for food/water uses from h*** d****. cut off a short piece.
#4 box of d*** r** (calcium chloride) from w******.
#5 jug of 31.45% muriatic acid
#6 measuring cup
#8 gas mask
#9 safety glasses
#10 home made fume hood
#11 funnel (for pouring the CaCL & muriatic into the bottle)
Before beginning, make sure your fume hood is turned on and the fans are pumping air to the outside through the window. Make sure you are wearing jeans, safety glasses, gloves, and gas mask. Have 2 of your 1000mL or so foaf xylene pull jars (pull #1 and pull #2 jars) sitting in the fume hood with the lids off.
#1) Add 500mL (2 cups) of calcium chloride to the empty alcohol bottle, then add 120 mL (1/2 cup) of muriatic acid to the bottle...you will see it bubble a tiny bit...screw on the barb adapter attachment. The barb adapter should have hose allready attached to it--no glue necessary--they fit perfectly together and will be extremely difficult to pull apart when together. The barb threads into the top of the bottle, perfect fit.
Now just put the hand held gasser in the fume hood and let it sit for 2 minutes (wait for the cacl to do its thing and suck the water from the muriatic, leaving pure concentrated gas in the bottle). Now just pick up the gasser and press on it a little bit and you will see a "puff" of pure hcl gas exit the wand...do this a few times in the fume hood so you can make sure the fume hood is working really good...my fume hood has 6 brushless fans and immediately sucks any fumes in the hood and exits them out to the outside right away. There is no "front" to my fumehood, it just has sides, top, bottom & back so I'm able to work freely by just putting my arms & hands into it.
#2) Now insert the wand into the jar #1 --1000mL or so of 1st xylene pull -- make absolutely sure you have dried the non-polar with mescaline freebase with dried epson salts first to capture any water from the non-polar--it needs to be dry, dry, dry to be gassed and leave us with sparkly white mescaline right away. To do this, just add 2 hanfulls of "dried" epsom salts to your jar(s) with xylene. Let it soak for 1 to 3 hours...every 10 minutes shake the jar to let the epsom salts mix. Then when you are ready 1 to 3 hours later, just decant off the xylene from the epsom salts at the bottom....filter the xylene through a #103 filter disc in a buchner flask...this will clean all the epsom salt particles from the xylene. Your xylene is now "dry" and ready to be gassed.
Squeeze on the bottle while the wand is submerged in the non-polar, it will bubble about 10 to 15 medium sized gas bubbles, then pull wand out while still holding the "squeeze" on the bottle....Repeat this about 5 to 10 more times...this only takes a minute or two....you will immediately see a "snow" of mescaline crystals form in the dried non-polar and they will sink to the bottom.
#3) the recipe given above will produce enough gas imho to gas all four of the xylene pulls from foaf's tek. I only gassed the 1st two 40 to 44oz pulls from foaf's tek because I still have to pull the 3rd & 4rth pull. But it was still puffing out plenty of gas when I squeezed on the bottle after I finished up gassing the 1st two pull jars.
#4) hook up the end of an aquarium bubbler to the narrow end of a long glass pippette and insert the pippette into each of the jars for 15 minutes to bubble air through the non-polar to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas that might be trapped in the non-polar--this will aid in case you decide you want to extract your mesc hcl off with water from the non-polar. It will keep your mescaline pure white and not discolored by any excess hcl in the non-polar.
IMPORTANT: when done gassing, screw the barb off the bottle, put the bottle under a sink faucet, and fill it up to the top with cold water to stop the reaction from producing gas inside the bottle. Then dispose of it properly. The bottle will be slightly hot from the reaction and the water will also serve to cool it down.
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:36 PM
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:38 PM
1) After you gas your jar(s), the mescaline "rains" out immediately and falls to the bottom of the jar.
2) Then bubble air through each jar(s) for a few minutes to bleed off the excess hcl gas trapped in the water.
Attach end of aquarium tubing to the narrow end of a long glass pipette.
3) Then you pour the solution thru a buchner funnel with a #103 filter disc. The mescaline will collect on top the filter. So long as you dried your xylene containing mescaline freebase properly, you will end up with some white stuff. If you did not dry your xylene properly, you will end up with brown mescaline...because then the gassing turns into "just a messy time-wasting sort of titration" instead of near-perfect looking product. The gasser is 100% anahydrous, it creates VERY DRY gas. When gas is made using aluminum foil dropped into muriatic acid, the gas is VERY WET as well as somewhat dangerous. View the idiots making hcl gas with aluminum foil & muriatic to create explosions for kicks on youtube for example. That's some dumbass shit. This procedure/process is very safe and effective though.
Then you clean the mescaline at least 3 times with liberal amounts of acetone, wash and rinse it real good. Then you can either add the now rinsed mescaline to a brownie dish with a small amount of boiling distilled water to "drive off" any remaining solvent fumes. Put a fan over the brownie pyrex dish on the "high" setting. When all the water has evaporated off, then you can scrape up the mescaline hcl, it's now clean. Or you can re-crystallize the mescaline (see thread in the "advanced lab procedures" sub-forum.)
Something my friend and I have discovered, is that the pure mescaline hcl will collect ON TOP the #103 filter disc with heavy vacuum applied, but all of the non-mescaline alkaloids (very sedating) will fall thru the filter and re-collect back in the xylene in your collection jar. We found that if you are extracting trichocereus macrogonus you will end up with a pile of "highly sedating alkaloids" in the collection jar mixed in with the xylene. To collect those alkaloids, you simply pour the xylene into a sep funnel, add 1/4 cup of boiling hot water, drain off the bottom water layer within 10 to 20 seconds, and then evaporate off the water -- you will be left with all sorts of non-mescaline alkaloids. As persona mentioned, the mescaline hcl tends to "stay with its own kind". He helped me to better understand why this occurs.
This is the first time on the internet that this has been accidentaly discovered--ie. the seperation of mescaline hcl from the other alkaloids using a simple 2.5 micron filter disc. The dosing was also accidental in the beginning, when we sampled the alkaloids that fell through the filter, we thought we would be taking mescaline too, but NOT TRUE! The other alkaloids have entirely different effects on the brain, as we soon discovered.
These alkaloids can either be re-added back to your "pure mescaline hcl pile" that you collected ON TOP the #103 (2.5 micron) filter disc, like a tossed salad, for the "full spectrum alkaloid effect" which is similar to ingesting cactus tea or you can simply sample it all by itself. You will end up with about 1/4 of your extract being these non-mescaline alkaloids and about 3/4 of your extract being pure mescaline. This is all highly dependent on what variety you are extracting. I would love to see what someone ends up with when they extract from bridgesii.
My friend and I sampled these "non-mescaline" alkaloids three seperate times, in varying dosages from 100 to 300mg, and found that they will kick in within 1 hour and quickly lull you to sleep or put you in a heavy hypnagogic state. It makes a great natural sleeping pill. Refer to this paper by Dr. Heffter to learn more about the sedating alkaloids in cactus (this paper only examines peyote alkaloids however): http://www.heffter.o...view2/chap2.pdf
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:39 PM
- witchdr11 likes this
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:39 PM
You MUST clean the mescaline from the gassing with lots of acetone...smell the crystals, you will sense it smells of xylene...if you put some on your tongue, it will burn because of the xylene trapped around the crystals...it has to be washed/rinsed properly.
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:40 PM
Posted 18 February 2008 - 01:45 PM
You can find all the parts you need at Radio Shack (the 4 to 6 fans), the plastic box at Target, and the bolts and nuts at your local hardware section or store. You can find the drill circle tool with blade on ebay for cheap (less than $9).
Construction of the fume hood:
#1) 110 Liter sterlite or rubbermaid container
#2) six 115VAC 65CFM brushless computer cooling fans (4.7 x 4.7 x 1.5")
#3) AC cord
#4) soldering iron and solder & electrical tape or screw nuts
#5) 6-32 or 8-32 bolts, nuts & washers for mounting the fans
#6) drill circle tool with blade
#7) ruler and marker
#8) drill & drill bits
TIP: Forward and reverse the drill when you are using the drill circle cutting tool to quickly cut out a circle section for each motor--when you fwd & reverse the drill, I found it cuts through the plastic faster.