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    Mycologist Babe

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 01:59 AM

just wanted to Rant & Rave about those fucking flies. god dammit, they get into it somehow...i haven't figured it out... fucking annihilated my batch...

i guess next time i'll duct tape the edges or something... it's fucking gross to see ded gnats stuck on the moist edge... they're just gross, period!


#2 destroy_erase_improve



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Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:01 AM

cal, it probably came from something you bought, like peat moss. put up the sticky strips to catch the mature ones. it works. as far as the larvae go, there is a thread about this somewhere. i dont remember what it said to do.
and yes it is pretty gross :)

#3 Guest_Peter Cottontail_*

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 07:27 AM

They breed in the soil of your houseplants, so find the one they are crawling out of and treat the soil with this http://www.gardensal...n=1962&ss=gnats. The adults will feed on your myclium, which is why they're attracted to cakes and casings. However, to this day I have never had a contam that I could blame on the gnats. They seem harmless enough, but if the adults really bother you, get some of the habenero pepper spray from your local hydro store. You'll still need to get the BT to kill the larvae in your houseplant soil. I've heard the yellow sticky traps will catch them, but I tried some clear sticky traps and they land, walk around, then fly right off. lol.

#4 dkextbmx



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Posted 06 May 2005 - 01:38 PM

Yessss gnats are a fuckin know what..I HAVE YOUR SOLUTION!

Two small things you need to do and you can let those little fucks fly around all day if they want...

1. Coffee filters and rubberbands... put a coffee filter on top of every jars and rubber band it...they cant get in through the noc holes anymore...that clears up that problem.

2. "TAT" fly papers. Any fly paper will can find them at ACE hardware or Lowes. I've got prolly 60 gnats stuck to those can watch them just fly into the paper..its funny... o.0

3. Get rid of soil, Any soil or any rotting food or anything that just doesnt smell right in your house... this will take them out for sure.

Those 3, very quick and very inexpensive methods....will get rid of your gnat problem...I had 2 batches lost to those annoying little I got 18 jars more then 50% colonzied..and I still see gnats all the time...

[put the fly paper up in the closet or room where the jars are..prolly like 5 feet from the jars...i'd say 2-3 traps in a room or closet will insure they never get a chance of getting to your suculant tasty jars.]

Be sure to get those coffee filters on the jars...they won't effect air getting in or out..but will get rid of those gnats. Good luck bro and I'm glad i can finally help someone the way so many others have helped me! :rolleyes:

#5 Hippie3



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Posted 22 April 2006 - 02:04 PM

strain of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt/H-14) provides very effective fungus gnat control for houseplant growers and home greenhouses. Populations of fungus gnats (often called "fruit flies") usually peak during winter and spring. The tiny adult insects lay their eggs in peat moss, humus-rich organic soil and potting media. The larvae then feed on plant roots, including those of young seedlings. Infested plants wilt, roots rot and the plants may eventually die.
With Knock-Out Gnats, however, the larvae ingest the larvicide and die! Use as a soil drench, 2-8 tsp. per gallon of water. Make three weekly applications to control successive generations. You can monitor effectiveness of Knock-Out Gnats with sticky traps.

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#6 Hippie3



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Posted 22 April 2006 - 02:08 PM

Bacillus thuringiensis

by W.S. Cranshaw1

Quick Facts...

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring bacterial disease of insects. These bacteria are the active ingredient in some insecticides.
Bt insecticides are most commonly used against some leaf- and needle-feeding caterpillars. Recently, strains have been produced that affect certain fly larvae, such as mosquitoes, and larvae of leaf beetles.
Bt is considered safe to people and nontarget species, such as wildlife. Some formulations can be used on essentially all food Crops.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is an insecticide with unusual properties that make it useful for pest control in certain situations. Bt is a naturally occurring bacterium common in soils throughout the world. Several strains can infect and kill insects. Because of this property, Bt has been developed for insect control. At present, Bt is the only "microbial insecticide" in widespread use.

The insecticidal activity of Bt was first discovered in 1911. However, it was not commercially available until the 1950s. In recent years, there has been tremendous renewed interest in Bt. Several new products have been developed, largely because of the safety associated with Bt-based insecticides.


Unlike typical nerve-poison insecticides, Bt acts by producing proteins (delta-endotoxin, the "toxic crystal") that reacts with the cells of the gut lining of susceptible insects. These Bt proteins paralyze the digestive system, and the infected insect stops feeding within hours. Bt-affected insects generally die from starvation, which can take several days.

Occasionally, the bacteria enter the insect's blood and reproduce within the insect. However, in most insects it is the reaction of the protein crystal that is lethal to the insect. Even dead bacteria containing the proteins are effective insecticides.

The most commonly used strain of Bt (kurstaki strain) will kill only leaf- and needle-feeding caterpillars. In the past decade, Bt strains have been developed that control certain types of fly larvae (israelensis strain, or Bti). These are widely used against larvae of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats.

More recently, strains have been developed with activity against some leaf beetles, such as the Colorado potato beetle and elm leaf beetle (san diego strain, tenebrionis strain). Among the various Bt strains, insecticidal activity is specific. That is, Bt strains developed for mosquito larvae do not affect caterpillars. Development of Bt products is an active area and many manufacturers produce a variety of products. Effectiveness of the various formulations may differ.


Bt is susceptible to degradation by sunlight. Most formulations persist on foliage less than a week following application. Some of the newer strains developed for leaf beetle control become ineffective in about 24 hours.

Manufacturers are experimenting with several techniques to increase its persistence. One involves inserting Bt toxic crystal genes into other species of bacteria that can better survive on leaf surfaces (e.g., the M-Trak formulation of san diego strain).

The highly specific activity of Bt insecticides might limit their use on Crops where problems with several pests occur, including nonsusceptible insects (aphids, grasshoppers, etc.). As strictly a stomach poison insecticide, Bt must be eaten to be effective, and application coverage must be thorough. This further limits its usefulness against pests that are susceptible to Bt but rarely have an opportunity to eat it in field use, such as codling moth or corn earworm that tunnel into plants. Additives (sticking or wetting agents) often are useful in a Bt application to improve performance, allowing it to cover and resist washing.

Since Bt does not kill rapidly, users may incorrectly assume that it is ineffective a day or two after treatment. This, however, is merely a perceptual problem, because Bt-affected insects eat little or nothing before they die.

Bt-based products tend to have a shorter shelf life than other insecticides. Manufacturers generally indicate reduced effectiveness after two to three years of storage. Liquid formulations are more perishable than dry formulations. Shelf life is greatest when storage conditions are cool, dry and out of direct sunlight.


The specific activity of Bt generally is considered highly beneficial. Unlike most insecticides, Bt insecticides do not have a broad spectrum of activity, so they do not kill beneficial insects. This includes the natural enemies of insects (predators and parasites), as well as beneficial pollinators, such as honeybees. Therefore, Bt integrates well with other natural controls. For example, in Colorado, Bt to control corn borers in field corn has been stimulated by its ability to often avoid later spider mite problems. Mite outbreaks commonly result following destruction of their natural enemies by less selective treatments.

Perhaps the major advantage is that Bt is essentially nontoxic to people, pets and wildlife. This high margin of safety recommends its use on food Crops or in other sensitive sites where pesticide use can cause adverse effects.


The greatest use of Bt involves the kurstaki strain used as a spray to control caterpillars on vegetable Crops. In addition, Bt is used in agriculture as a liquid applied through overhead irrigation systems or in a granular form for control of European corn borer. The treatments funnel down the corn whorl to where the feeding larvae occur.

Many formulations (but not all) are exempt from pesticide tolerance restrictions and may be used up to harvest on a wide variety of Crops. This also makes Bt useful in applications where pesticide drift onto Gardens is likely to occur, such as treating trees and shrubs. The exceptional safety of Bt products also makes them useful where exposure to pesticides is likely during mixing and application.

To control mosquito larvae, formulations containing the israelensis strain are placed into the standing water of mosquito breeding sites. For these applications, Bt usually is formulated as granules or solid, slow-release rings or brickettes to increase persistence. Rates of use are determined by the size of the water body. Make applications shortly after insect eggs are expected to hatch, such as after flooding due to rain or irrigation. Bt persistence in water is longer than on sun-exposed leaf surfaces, but reapply if favorable mosquito breeding conditions last for several weeks. Although the israelensis strain is quite specific in its activity, some types of nonbiting midges, which serve as food for fish and wildlife, also are susceptible and may be affected. For information on mosquito control, see fact sheet 5.526, Mosquito Management.

Use of Bt (israelensis) for control of fungus gnat larvae involves drenching the soil. Bt applied for control of elm leaf beetle or Colorado potato beetle (san diego/tenebrionis strain) is sprayed onto leaves in a manner similar to the formulations used for caterpillars. Bt does not control shore flies, another common fly found in greenhouses.

Insects Controlled by Bt

Kurstaki strain (Biobit, Dipel, MVP, Steward, Thuricide, etc.):

Vegetable insects
Cabbage worm (cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, diamondback moth, etc.).
Tomato and tobacco hornworm.
Field and forage crop insects
European corn borer (granular formulations have given good control of first generation corn borers).
Alfalfa caterpillar, alfalfa webworm.
Fruit crop insects
Achemon sphinx.
Tree and shrub insects
Tent caterpillar.
Fall webworm.
Red-humped caterpillar.
Spiny elm caterpillar.
Western spruce budworm.
Pine budworm.
Pine butterfly.
Israelensis strains (Vectobac, Mosquito Dunks, Gnatrol, Bactimos, etc.)

Black fly.
Fungus gnat.
San diego/tenebrionis strains (Trident, M-One, M-Trak, Foil, Novodor, etc.)

Colorado potato beetle.
Elm leaf beetle.
Cottonwood leaf beetle.

1 Colorado State University Cooperative Extension entomologist and professor, bioagricultural sciences and pest management. 11/99. Reviewed 3/03.

#7 malefacter



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Posted 22 April 2006 - 02:08 PM

bug zappers work to

#8 Hippie3



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Posted 22 April 2006 - 02:17 PM

bug zappers

are good entertainment
on a hot summer night...

#9 suckerfree



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Posted 22 April 2006 - 10:49 PM

The BT works great... I usually use it every 3rd or 4th watering (MJ). And I add a squirt to each of my drain buckets. It's fine to mix with organics, but it's not for use with chemical fertilizers, as that will kill the BT.
I've had outbreaks before with my mushies, but they never caused any problems. I hang a few flytraps around, and even set one of the flat kind down near the casings to try to catch some of the adults.
Eliminate any standing water.... even outside your house if you can help it.
You can see the larvae in the pupa stage with the eye, they are white, and appear to jump. Look in standing water, or on the top soil(MJ). Use a nicotine spray to get those bastards.
With all the plants around the house, I find it impossible to get rid of ALL of them, but I can knock the numbers down drastically.

#10 the jesus

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:38 PM

So I've got some tiny flies in my terrarium. Fruit flies maybe. It is a monotub with polyfilled holes and I am fanning 3-4 times a day. How can I KILL them?

#11 rocketman



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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:44 PM

welcome to the world of gnats......they will be around a while. I have them from my houseplants pretty much year round. they hatch in the soil/substrate and annoy the hell out of you.

#12 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:46 PM

No-Pest Strips made by Hotshots. keep them away.
home despot has em :) end of the pesticide aisle, $4-5ea
dont get em wet & replace every 3-4mths. hang em up :)

ps- you can use them inside each tub for now to kill/repel them, just dont get them wet.

#13 the jesus

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:47 PM

So they will be there until these cakes get tossed or can I combat them?

#14 the jesus

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:48 PM

Cool Cap. I was posting at the same time. Although that seems like it treats the symptom not the disease. Are there preventative measures I can take?

#15 Lazlo


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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:55 PM

The only thing you can do for now is, use the hose of a vacuum cleaner to suck them up with. You'll have to do it a couple of times a day until the flush is over to keep them minimal. Once the flush is over, you'll have to dunk the cakes and replace or sterilize the perlite if you're using it for humidification. Sometimes you'll get lucky and will be able to drown the larvae during the dunk. Sometimes not so lucky though. Always keep your eyes peeled for them daily.

#16 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:59 PM

no, ya got it backwards.
'no pest strips' are the preventative.
ive yet to try mixing neem seed oil (solid) into my substrate,
because i simply havent had to yet, but its a worthy experiment.
other than that, i cant think of anythin else that may keep em at bay.

what ive done is hang the strips at grow-level
on the hook they give you on a fishing line (actually i used chain :lol:)
you can go nuts and put them inside too. :) or on top of lids.

what i meant by putting them inside the tub now,
was to 'drive them out' ....hopefully!!
good luck :thumbup: and hope this helps. maggots suck.

#17 the jesus

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 11:01 PM

Thanks Lazlo, do you think a little bleach would be in order for the next dunk? I just inhaled one of the bastards. This is fu#&in' WAR!

#18 Lazlo


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Posted 19 September 2006 - 11:02 PM

I wouldn't worry with the bleach.

#19 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 11:05 PM

hows about sprayin a lil DEET in there? :D :D
spice things up...kick it up a notch, if u will :lol:


#20 the jesus

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 11:12 PM

Right on thx guys. Cap I'll hit the depot for strips tomorrow. I'll let you know how the bug battle goes. "This aggression will not stand man". Thanks again.

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