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Eatyualive's Chamber of Shrooms


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#1 eatyualive

eatyualive

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 02:02 AM

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Stealth Steel Work Storage:
The Construction of
Eatyualive's Chamber of Shrooms


Reasoning:
You never know when a fire will happen or an emergency and the police or
fire department barge into your place when your not around. This is going to be a step by step detailed explanation from start to end. I try to give as many details as possible but my scatter brain just has trouble organizing threads. Hopefully this one, will be a bit more clear.
LCD Track Lighting or LCD Battery Stick Ons: Under 20$ for the plug in, 8$ for the stick on battery powered.
This is 8$ at lowes. It has a velcro strip and sticky tape on the backside.
You can hang these anywhere. But, the batteries will run out far
before the light will. The batteries run AAA and it takes 3 per each one of these lcd. They will last approximately a week for 4 hours a day. You can get a rechargeable battery pack for AAA's and you should be fine. So, if your using the lcd battery light for direction only.
Otherwise the batteries will run out quite fast. Or you need to get the plugin set. The prices range from 18-30$.


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They have all kinds of designs and colors to choose from.
This will in turn be plugged in and wired through the back of the cabinet.

post-5996-138188865761.jpg

It can plug in and you can run wires behind this utility closet, making
it difficult to see. but this one won't have any wires going in
or out. real simple. old skool. you could even run a fan in there.
small cpu fan would work. but not necessary. just air out if the temp
builds up too much. 6 foot tall 3 foot wide and 18" deep. thats the downfall
of this one, but one of the sturdiest ones.

post-5996-138188865769.jpg
post-5996-138188865756.jpg

Lcd on
The cabinet does have slight cracks. At the top of the chamber where
light escapes as well as holes on the sides where the shelves
go. you could close them easily but the door is a bit difficult. It is very
hard to see even in full dark.
This is it stuck to the top of the chamber. you could also potentially line
this with 5ml plastic stick the plastic just below this light, then
make a mist machine below on the lower shelves pumping it directly into your
5ml, pvc pipe grow frame. just for ideas. but this is just real
simple boxes stacked.


post-5996-138188865766.jpg
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Also, not real sure if this lcd thing will work.
But it is worth a try.
This thing is about 200$ and probably the best value for its price of what
was available without shipping. potentially you can stack 6 of these iris bins.
which are 12"x24"x17.5". this cabinet is pressing real tight when
the lids are put on. so the lids have to go. press n seal will be used in place of
this. test runs going soon. keep this updated!
lcd

post-5996-138188865775.jpg

This thing below is going to be called the
Honanator:Big mother 24" wide.
Available at office depot.

post-5996-1381888652.jpg

Ok to something a bit more economical. Here is a study done to test sizes. All inner dimensions obtained from manufacturer. Every 1/16th of an inch counts. Make sure you account for the lid dimensions as well. Use your worst case scenario by measuring the length and with of the lid.

post-5996-138188865322.jpg

Now its a Reality
The 24" wide hon won the comparison test along with iris clear stack 12 gallons. Shape and space wise, they take the cake. The ikea chambers came in 2nd but the problem is, the lids are flimsy and weak. They don't stay on unless you buy the extra accessories to lock them. They end up costing the same amount as the iris clear stack but these things lids pop off easily. It is quite annoying and you would have to tape the lid down to get it to work the way you want it. And it has a smaller volume of space than the clear stack. If you can see very closely in the study it has volume, cost, number of containers, and interior dimensions. Everything was well thought out before anything was bought or tested.
This was several weeks in the planning stages and some tedious measuring
and climbing up on walls at home depot, lowes, target and walmart.
24" depth x 36" wide x 72" height. 12-12 gallon containers fit in here. these are small iris clear stack. they stack easily and are very sturdy. 11$ each at office depot.


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If you get something like this, make sure you find out the interior dimensions from the manufacturer first. Then make sure you have accurate measurements of your bins. Take a measuring tape to walmart and ikea, target, big lots. You can't go wrong. It takes time, but you can find it. This fits nicely. A little pricey but does the trick.....
Tub Construction: 12 gallon Iris Clear Stack
15 3/4"Wx21 3/4"Dx10 5/8"H.
Holes per bin: 16. 5 on long sides 3 on short sides
Tools Needed:
1) Iris Bin Clear Stack 12 gallon. 11$ office depot online. best bin you can find. very sturdy these things can carry more than 50lbs.
2) 1" Drill bit or 1" hole saw. this will make life easier!

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look a few posts below for some information from coyotemesc and tv casualty for details.
3) drill with good torque

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4) tape measure
5) sharpie pen
Total Time Required: 1 hour
Procedure:
This is fairly self explanatory. You have 5 holes going on your long side and 3 on your short.
The holes will basically zigzag from bottom to top. For every 2 bottom holes you have one top hole between. if there are 3 bottom holes, then you have 2 top holes between them.
1) First of all you want to figure out your volume of substrate you will be using. Easily done using a trash bag. Simply fill a turkey tin worth of substrate (this is a personal measuring tool. one turkey tin of sub=1 bin. this included 2-3 quarts of spawn will hit the sub depth of 3.5"). this is also the method used to pasteurize turkey tins. so fill your turkey tin with vermiculite by volume. then add 3 quart jars full of vermiculite into your trash bag. rearrange it in your bin and level it out. This is a quick way of judging your sub depth. do it however you want, this is just how it was done to illustrate the idea.

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2) Take a sharpie and your tape measure and mark each spot on the bin where the center of the circle will be.

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Roughly the height of these iris bin chambers are 12". we are placing the lower holes near the substrate or casing level at 4". This means that 1/2" below that 4" spot is where the bottom of the hole will be.
this allows for a 3.5" sub depth at all times.

post-5996-138188865627.jpg

The sub depth will never be deeper than this for these tubs. this is because that one turkey tin of volume fills this height perfectly. if you have deeper sub depth give yourself room for leeway. so say 5"
because you never know when you need to bulk it up a bit. this is all relevant to the size chamber you use, the height, the volume everything. personally the higher your chamber is the better
this gives it much more volume. just like a dub tub. if you could get a double high chamber, that would be the best you can get. but lets work with what we have now. however, it may not fit in your storage chamber to keep stealthy. try measuring all of this out before you go and buy everything. save
yourself the headache.

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So, your lower holes at 4"

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And your upper holes at 7".

 

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Then eye it horizontally and try aligning your holes directly in the middle of your two lower holes and directly horizontal with the other upper holes you drilled.


 

3) Drill your holes. Make sure you do this slowly. If you do it too fast you may crack holes you don't want or break parts of the plastic off. It will happen but the more patient, the better.

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So total time for all drilling and measuring. 1 hour. Not to shabby for 192 holes! this along with a steel combination lock box can fit in a small fridge. good stuff!
Test run #3

is coming along nicely on a 2nd flush. This is multispore pesh. a clone was taken via 9er tek two days ago
and is on grain now. also coming is two varieties of tex strain. one has a more orange cap the other has a yellow white cap. trying to revive this old characteristic. had one flush on hip's donkey doo but prints weren't taken only this clone that is about to be slurried in a hurry is left. so wish us luck...also this has the above light cycle set. so this is the 3rd test run with this light cycle.

2.jpg

Everything looks extremely healthy with both these clones. and with tv's slurry tek. damn.. watch out!
Cloning Done Via 9er Tek Cloning Method
http://archives.myco...html?1073960464
http://archives.myco...html?1005797715
This is also a collective thread to gather ideas about 9er tek. I worship this tek likes its made by the gods themselves. By hand of Zuess it come. I am sure everyone has something good to add. Please feel free.
http://mycotopia.net...-additions.html
After the clone was taken into syringes. One 10 cc syringe was injected into 2 -1/2 pint brf jars. This ended up colonizing in a few days. Once it colonized. The 1/2 pint cake was then used as a Slurry IN a Hurry and grown out on 20 quart jars wild bird seed spawn.
If you haven't seen it, this is the 3rd step you want to add to the 9er tek. This is freaking awesome!
http://mycotopia.net...three-days.html
Follow TV's steps and learn it before you innovate. there are ways ofdoing it more simplified and it works well. But, first learn the tek, then experiment.

My Ratios for Slurry Tek
I do a ratio of 1/2 of 1/2 pint cake blended to 1/2 pint distilled water. This is 1/4 of a pint of mycelia. This is all blended in a 1 pint jar with a small mouth lid.
This half cake, is enough lc for 50 jars. Usually I'll do 25 jars per sitting. and half of the cake is always thrown out and even half of the solution is also poured out. yes, thrown out! A little bit, goes a
long way. You can likely get 100 jars off one half pint cake using this method. Where if you scrape the 1/2 pint with a fork, you may only get 10-12 quart jars. You can simply pour the blended jar like your g2ging your jars, but pour it for just a split second. You don't want too much lc.
I am in experimentation now and you will see it in Tv's thread. I tried 1:1 ratio of cake to distilled water. basically 1/2 pint to 1/2 pint. It ended up turning to mud. But its colonizing well now.
This is a thread of the previous grow with this clone. This is a very rocking clone of Treasure Coast. 4 More Strains Are about to be tested now. Tex Clone Yellow Cap, Tex Clone Orange Cap, Mazatec
clone and PES Hawaiian clone.
https://mycotopia.ne...re-coast-clone/
https://mycotopia.ne...ut-the-bigguns/
Spawn Run
This spawn run took 5 days. it was allowed to colonize for two more days after that and birthed.
all the rhizos are pointing up like tree trunks. each bin looks like this.

http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-t2.jpg

Incubation/Fruiting
Lets say you have 8 chambers going but you have 4 other that are spawned a week later to keep a rotation going. In order to get this to work, you need black plastic available at paint sections of walmart and home depot. Simply cover up the chambers your incubating and place them at the bottom of all the other chambers. then when they are birthed, take off the black plastic and place them at the top of the stack closest to the light.


http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-bp1.jpg

A note about Condensation Buildup
Here is a picture of when the condensation on the lids gets too high. Pay attention to this. This is bad.
You do not want this. And notice this is right after full colonization. Often if nothing is done and your using the lid, without fanning. you will get contams easily. if you gently and quickly wipe down the top so that the condensation is gone, this will help out when you get closer to fruiting. personally this is where most
of the problems are caused if there are any. so if you make sure you catch it at this point, all should be well. 1 out of 8 of these bins did this. most likely it was the bin that had the triple spawn ratio compared to the other 8. it just worked out that way during spawning. nothing will be fanned until a day or two after pin development happens.


http://mycotopia.net...oms-lidcond.jpg

This is with no casing layer.

The substrate
1:1:1 ratios of strawnet:
coco coir: vermiculite. It was then topped off with a
10% dusting of horse field apples. Or shall we call them gold nuggets. That sounds better!

Condensation Woes
You will notice in this picture that there is just a tad bit of condensation on the substrate itself. this is tolerable on a substrate. but if you have a casing, you do not want this at all. when you begin to see more than tiny speckles of water on the substrate that means there is too much condensation on your substrate. this may happen when you have a 4" deep substrate. this means, either you have to fan, you can tilt your chamber to allow the moisture to run down the casing, or you can vent if you using press n seal or saran wrap on your tubs as lids.

http://mycotopia.net...rooms-prims.jpg

relative humidity regulation
if you are using your lids for your lids, and they are air tight. then you have to deal with this at that point.
anymore time spent with a drenched substrate may be room for contams. you can open up a few polyfil holes to allow moisture to escape but you don't want too much moisture to escape so keep it under 4 hours. this is in turn regulating the relative humidity slightly. you can get a gauge for this, when you figure it out. it depends on your substrate depth, ratios and such to adapt it to your own tolerances. but foaf will find opening two polyfil holes for 4 hours does the trick usually. usually when the pins start to develop and fruiting occurs. the moisture condensation will be at its peak. By this point, the fruits will produce their own moisture and it can certainly contaminate the hell out of your bin, if you don't do this correctly.
this is why you try and drop your rh 10% when fruiting occurs. so if its out of hand, open more polyfil holes. foaf has actually left the saran wrap lid off at times and the entire bin fruited open air with all the moisture escaping. the moisture kept under the substrate was enough to fruit it and allow the fruits to mature.
so being in this closed space storage. you may be able to get away with allowing the lids to either sit loosely or just take them off. this is just an idea but it did work in a closet. the moisture would most likely be kept in better from this cabinet so if this is experimented with, it will be noted later.
at times, the condensation buildup can get out of hand. so much that even if you soak up the water, your still having to soak it up a few times a day. foaf will use paper towels to quickly soak up excess moisture on the top of the substrate by gently and quickly swabbing the surface trying to soak up the extra moisture. not much pressure is added so that no damage occurs to the developing primordia.
if none of this works. you can add a slightly dryer casing layer to soak up the extra moisture and then wait till it colonizes before birth. or you can do a late casing method by fahtster.
you can even add sterile dry vermiculite as well. this is if, the moisture is completely out of control.

Full Test Run Treasure Coast Clone 1
here are a few of them after spawning.


http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-tc1.jpg

Lighting Notes: Lighting Cycle
The bins will receive natural light for roughly 4 hours a day. This will be later in the day closer to sunset. They will receive exactly 1 hour early morning light. The lcd lights will be turned on for a few
hours just for directional purposes. This will be natural daylight but will be very indirect. Only enough light that it cracks into the space between the blinds. 2 bins have been tested with 100% success and no warped growth either. When the lcd lights were on, it made the fruits reach upwards for them. so conserve your batteries or get rechargeable batteries if your not wanting modern technology attached to this storage cabinet. This cabinet will be all natural no strings attached, good ole stone age fun...
well not stone age but you get the drift. not automation.The pesh are fruiting very nicely with minimal light. the daily fannings will be enough light along with the 3 extra hours for Pinning . the fanning will occur early in the morning and early evening. so two times a day.

Primordia 4 days in


http://mycotopia.net...s-primordia.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...s-primordia.jpg

Pinning: 6 days in
Pins formed. Fanning has begun. Two times a day. Once in the morning, once in the evening. For 10 seconds each so a total of 20 seconds of fanning is going to take place daily.


http://mycotopia.net...rooms-pins1.jpg

This picture below is what the substrate will look like when it is just about to pin. Pins should form in the next 12 hours or so. It has one or two pins on it, but this is generally what it looks like.


http://mycotopia.net...rooms-pins2.jpg

2nd day pins, condensation is starting to increase. not a bad pinset for 4 hours of light a day. and minimal daylight. only cracks of light coming in through the blinds. the room appears very dark when your in it.

http://mycotopia.net...rooms-pins1.jpg

side view for a different perspective

http://mycotopia.net...ms-pinsside.jpg

Condensation as an Indicator That Fruiting has begun
This picture is 2 days into pinning. Just before the pins are going to start to mature. This is generally when fanning begins, or polyfil holes are taken out to allow a bit of the rh to drop. If your using saran wrap lids you most likely won't have to do this unless your using older spawn past 3 generations. You will notice in this picture that the condensation on the sides looks misty and scattered. And very random. Its even and there are no drips yet.


http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-c1.jpg

In this picture below you will notice that this bin is just a step ahead of the above bin. This happens. They were done at the same time but there is about a days difference in growth between the two. You will notice how the condensation started to drip. This is an indicator that fruiting is beginning. This is when you really have to either start giving some fanning, simply open up some polyfil holes, or even tilt your chambers for a few hours. It is all dependent upon what method you use. But here lies the real problem. This is the sensitive spot. If you allow the rh to get out of hand, the condensation on the substate or pinning surface will really cause problems. So tilt, lower rh, or fan real heavy. You could do combination of all of these things. But if your lazy, well you may just want to open the poly holes. Disregard any of this if your using automation this is strictly for single tubs with lids on them. You can generally judge by the amount of condensation on the substate when you will want to lower your rh. If you see drops then you want to lower your rh. If it looks like a fine mist. Your fine.

http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-c2.jpg

Starting to Pop
One thing. Treasure Coast never fails to be very slow from pin to fruit. I feel as though it should have popped two days ago lol.



Sending good vibes your way my girls
http://mycotopia.net...ms-f4.jpg?stc=1
top left corner a small portion was surgically removed. probably just over paranoia but surgery was done very quickly.
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-f1.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-f3.jpg

Fanning is Too Much Work
Well after a week of going back to fanning. Conclusion is This sux! Too much work. Will most likely go back to saran wrap or pns lids.

Pin Porn: Almost There
wow this is an eternity. come on tc, hurry up, hurry up girl.....just creepin along. now creeper were even slower than tc. but so far, tc takes the cake on slow fruiting.....wow!


http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-f3.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-f4.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-f3.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-pr2.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-f6.jpg

Pins to Fruiting 6 days



http://mycotopia.net...ms-b2.jpg?stc=1
http://mycotopia.net...ms-b4.jpg?stc=1
http://mycotopia.net...ms-b7.jpg?stc=1
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-bp2.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-b7.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-b6.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-b7.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-b8.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-b5.jpg

Condensation During Fruiting
You can see the condensation on the sides increase dramatically from pins to fruit. notice it on the lid as well again. there wasn't any condensation on the lids until last day of fruiting.



http://mycotopia.net...ms-condside.jpg

Final Update
Ready for printing!


http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-pr1.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-pr8.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-pr9.jpg

Conclusions
Test Run 1 Success. Subs were a bit dry this round probably need to up the moisture content. Other than that, a good 8 hour dunk will be done on each tub to prepare them for the 2nd flush. May do a few of these late casing experiments to mess around with the timing.
BTW, this is nothing special. Its just a storage locker with bins in it. But it just looks so damn cool with the lighting! oh yeah!



http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-h4.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-h3.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-h1.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-bp9.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...hrooms-bp10.jpg
They love me!
http://mycotopia.net...rooms-heart.jpg

press n seal=no fanning. pns=unstable stacking.
lids=fanning. lids=easy stacking higher volume lids=your best bet 64 quart and higher. gives you more time between any type of air introduction if its needed.
can't have automation hooked to this. trying to be silent with no wiring. ups and downs to everything.
the idea is no wiring or automation. the chambers haven't been fanned for 1.5 days during fruiting and so far no problems have happened.
weak flushes but, a few minimal adjustments will fix that up. just getting a feel for this test run.
test run 2 spawned. pesh clone.

Great job, keep the pics coming!

as you wish...bc now i have officially declared myself a dudeist monk!(check out the dudeist thread)
 


http://mycotopia.net...-shrooms-h2.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-bp4.jpg
http://mycotopia.net...shrooms-bp5.jpg

two bin harvest below. the surface area of the substrate is definitely playing a factor.



Update: 2010

These are 68 quart sterilites that are 7 bucks at target. i drill the bottom of the holes at 5.5". i drill 3-1.5" diameter holes on each long side triangulated like above. 3 on the long side, 1 on the short side at the top of the tub on the short sides. so a total of 8-1.5" diameter holes. the bins work excellent. here is an example of this tub in use.
http://mycotopia.net...multispore.html
10 of these tubs fit in this particular setup. this is working out well. the large volume tubs seem to perform better with no maintenance at all. those smaller iris tubs are just a little undersized. maybe need a smaller substrate in the tub to make it work exactly right. now the setup is tweaked perfect. a computer fan was wired to a cell phone chord to setup a slow breeze on a time in the chamber. set 15 mins every two hours when its closed.

http://mycotopia.net...s-sterilite.jpg

these tubs are much taller than the smaller iris. they allow the fruits to get upwards of about 14" but some bend over and get really tall. checkout any burma thread posted by me you will see.
here is a cpu fan wired into a cell phone 12v ac adapter. put on a timer. then hung from the top of the chamber with sticky flat magnets found at wallmart craft section near markers and such. there is soft wire used for bonzai trees used to hang from the top of the bin. we just want a little airflow in there. enough to survive if this thing is closed for 8 hours at a time. it is right down the center of the bins pushing air straight down. the fan has to be about 6" away from the top or the fan won't blow air.

http://mycotopia.net...wiredcpufan.jpg

Update 2010: Fanning
Since using the sterilite higher volume tubs, fanning is not necessary. only one a few select strains. these being the pe varieties. the polyfil is removed during fruiting only for a few hours until the condensation on the sides of the bin doesn't appear to be dripping anymore.

every once in a while you will get some old spawn tubs that might show weakening. you may need to wipe down these bins or even fan them a little.

so far, there have been zero issues like this running this setup for over a year. its running much smoother. the one key factor here is that you want airflow over the bins. so that you won't have to fan. if you sit them in this storage chamber for more than 8 hours without airflow it will cause a large amount of moisture to buildup on the sides of the chamber. as long as you catch this if you need to leave the bins with no airflow for a while. then you will be fine. but going anymore than 8 hours might give you issues.

sitting the bins in room with a ceiling fan is perfect for this. but if you want the setup to be very stealthy. then rig up a cpu fan to give the airflow you need. along with some lighting. the point is, nothing has to be complicated, you don't have to fan at all if you pick and choose your system wisely. these bins are perfect for this setup and size. they fit perfectly and 10 fit in the cabinet. however, the iris 64 quarts are excellent as well. but the bases run a little wider so you can't fit them the width of the cabinet. so in this situation, the sterilites are perfect. any tub over 50 quarts id say is going to give you more breathing room between any air introduction compared to something lower. the older 44 quarts as demonstrated in the initial setup of this thread, worked but with some strains there were issues. the large volume tubs seem to work with all strains with no issues.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by eatyualive, 16 August 2014 - 10:04 PM.

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#2 Dank Side Of The Shroom

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 02:12 AM

hells yes bro. :bow::bow::bow:thas sick.

#3 Freaky

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 09:24 AM

:cool:

I've used a cabinet before, only I made mine into an incubator which worked really really well for me.

That will be nice and stealthy for you! I like the stacked tubs :teeth:

#4 mycobri

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 09:37 AM

wow beautiful creation man :thumbup:

#5 eatyualive

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Posted 19 May 2008 - 12:56 PM

got something really cool coming soon similar to this! in the works...

#6 eatyualive

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Posted 22 May 2008 - 11:09 PM

...]

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#7 eatyualive

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Posted 25 May 2008 - 07:12 PM

...

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#8 Sunstar

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Posted 25 May 2008 - 07:43 PM

nice work Eats :eusa_clap

#9 CoyoteMesc

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Posted 25 May 2008 - 08:06 PM

Awesome thread eats.
If you dont mind a suggestion?
I dont want to step on your toes in no way.
You have kick ass ideas and the thread
is proof of that for sure.
Have you ever tried a hole saw bit?
The small bit holds the saw in place and cracking
would be less of an issue?

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#10 eatyualive

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Posted 25 May 2008 - 11:08 PM

Awesome thread eats.

If you dont mind a suggestion?
I dont want to step on your toes in no way.
You have kick ass ideas and the thread
is proof of that for sure.

Have you ever tried a hole saw bit?

The small bit holds the saw in place and cracking
would be less of an issue?

Posted Image


well, too late now lol. that was alot of drilling. but. next time... lol. just have a power drill is all. didn't even look at home depot but will pick one up next time. and any suggestions are always appreciated.

#11 TVCasualty

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 07:29 AM

Hole saws work well on plastic bins, but it takes a careful touch. I found that starting the pilot bit at higher speed is fine, but as the bit gets through the plastic and the teeth of the saw start to bite, they have a tendency to grab the plastic and just about make the bin do a cartwheel. That problem also is conducive to making cracks in the bin.

I found that after the pilot bit pokes through, holding the drill at a slight angle and keeping it at a fairly slow RPM starts a channel for the saw teeth that prevents grabbing (drill the pilot hole straight in, only angle the drill after that). I then carefully twist my wrist around, just barely cutting into the plastic, until the entire diameter of the hole is outlined by the saw (takes 2-3 seconds in real time after some practice). Once you get to that point you can crank up the RPM's and finish the hole real fast. Be sure to not put much pressure on it as you drill since it can grab the plastic. I've found it takes me about 5-10 seconds per hole (>1" dameter) when using a hole saw. Definitely expect some practice blunders at first. You can often drill 5-6 holes before you need to poke the cut pieces out of the hole saw, which can sometimes be a pain in the ass.

You'll also probably have to take a utility blade or something and clean up the edges of the hole, especially after the hole saw gets a little dull. When it gets a lot dull, definitely get a new one otherwise you're essentially melting your way through and the hole edges get ugly.

#12 eatyualive

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 09:00 AM

Hole saws work well on plastic bins, but it takes a careful touch. I found that starting the pilot bit at higher speed is fine, but as the bit gets through the plastic and the teeth of the saw start to bite, they have a tendency to grab the plastic and just about make the bin do a cartwheel. That problem also is conducive to making cracks in the bin.

I found that after the pilot bit pokes through, holding the drill at a slight angle and keeping it at a fairly slow RPM starts a channel for the saw teeth that prevents grabbing (drill the pilot hole straight in, only angle the drill after that). I then carefully twist my wrist around, just barely cutting into the plastic, until the entire diameter of the hole is outlined by the saw (takes 2-3 seconds in real time after some practice). Once you get to that point you can crank up the RPM's and finish the hole real fast. Be sure to not put much pressure on it as you drill since it can grab the plastic. I've found it takes me about 5-10 seconds per hole (>1" dameter) when using a hole saw. Definitely expect some practice blunders at first. You can often drill 5-6 holes before you need to poke the cut pieces out of the hole saw, which can sometimes be a pain in the ass.

You'll also probably have to take a utility blade or something and clean up the edges of the hole, especially after the hole saw gets a little dull. When it gets a lot dull, definitely get a new one otherwise you're essentially melting your way through and the hole edges get ugly.


ive used this 1" drill bit for 10 years and it hasn't dulled yet. and i only cracked two holes and that was because i got impatient. and... it doesn't really need to be cleaned up much after the drill bit just a few pieces of plastic being pulled and that is all. either way it works. and it all depends on your preference. i have no experience with hole saws but they look good. will try next time. more updates coming soon. 8 chambers were filled with treasure coast clone. the rest will be filled with mazatec clone and pes hawaiian clone.

#13 CoyoteMesc

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 10:02 AM

Once the drill bit gets through the plastic bin you put the drill in reverse. That prevents the 'grab' and still cuts through. Kinda like putting the blades in backwards when using miter and skill saw while cutting tin.
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#14 eatyualive

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 12:10 AM

...

#15 eatyualive

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 12:29 AM

...

#16 eatyualive

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 06:21 PM

..

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#17 chimp

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 06:43 PM

:bow:

Great ideas!

#18 eatyualive

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Posted 30 May 2008 - 10:03 AM

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#19 eatyualive

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 05:32 PM

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#20 eatyualive

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 05:59 PM

..

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