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WBS, G2G, MONOTUB, horse poo


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#1 sporocap

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 07:39 PM

It's been a while.... Alright a FOAF inoculated 30 WBS jars with brazillian.... ample steps were used to guarantee no contams (proper soak of 18 hours, rised the WBS thoroughly and let dry for 15 minutes before loading in the jars then PC for a solid 90 minutes at 15 PSI, Had brand new Syringes ordered from Ralphsters, brand new tips ect)... He thought. Lost 20 WBS jars to The mean green..... Very sad. However, he did his first grain to grain transfer Using his newly built glove box. The thing is ugly as hell but works. and turned 2 jars into 14. And the Mycellium is a brilliant white after just 1 week and the jars are 3/4 the way colonized. This friday when he gets payed he will order 30 LBS of pre-pasturized horse poo. He plans to mix 10 LBS of Poo in with 6 fully colonized Qt jars of WBS. He does not plan on layering but just doing a good mixing. The "monotubs" he bought are 20 Liters. Now he is thinking these may be to small for the size of mix he plans on using. As this is his first spawn to bulk he is not sure how this will look and if he should get new ones. He was hoping to have the monotub about 4-5" thick. Also, He was told that the Poo will create all the humidity neccessary to grow and also creates a certain amount of heat and room temperature with some polyfilled holes for fresh air exchange is all that is needed. So I guess the questions are.

1.) Any idea Why all the contams? Possible contams from the syringe? has anyone had this happen when ordering syringes?

2.)Is this an appropriate size for a monotub setup?

3.)Is this a good mixture 10 LBS Poo to 6 qt jars?

4.)Should he just mix the poo and WBS in the same tub he plans to grow in?
and what steps should be taken to mix the poo? Just some gloved hands?

5.)as far as the monotub climate requirements is the information I spoke about accurate?


6.)One more question I didn't touch base on.... Every 1 says that the incubator should be at about 85°F to be most efficent. Is this measuring ambient air or the bottom of the tub? He is using a tub in tub incubator and had the digital thermometer suspended off the bottom using a shot glass so the thermacouple was half way up the jars But he got to thinking what if the bottom is much hotter than this killing mycellium. So He just left the tub at 80°F just to be on the safe side. Where is everyone else taking there readings? Also do people use anything for fresh air exchange in there incubators or is this unncessesary?

He's Gotta go put more jars in the PC for the next G2G

Thanks in advance you guys are the best!!


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#2 Looky

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 08:04 PM

It's better to error on the side of caution with the temps. 80 is better than 90. 80 is pretty perfect, the jars are a little warmer on the inside. I don't measure my temperatures, I just check them frequently. After doing this awhile I know what to set my electric blanket at to keep it at a good temperature. My jars are slightly warm, but not hot. Since I use an electric blanket that goes all around the container that holds the jars, I think that the jars from top to bottom maintain a fairly constant temperature. I think 80 would be better.

#3 gsmith1981

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 08:45 PM

room temp works too. i'd just use the incubator during the cold seasons and turn the heat off during the spring/summer

#4 sporocap

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Posted 17 May 2008 - 02:00 PM

Can somebody please answer the other questions? my FOAF just orderd the poo and it should be here in 3-5 days.... He has a lot of time and money invested in this project and wants it to go as smooth as possible.... Thanks for the advice on the temps!!!! Also He notices even when colonization of a jar is at 80% when shaken the jar looks like plain WBS with a light white dust color. Is this how it's going to look when mixed in with the poo or should it be Solid white?

#5 twoguysupnorth

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Posted 18 May 2008 - 08:02 PM

i like to mix it in too, but i havnt ever layered really. yes you will be able to see the grain instead of being all white when you do this (scooping/shaking it out from the jars pulls some of the white off). lower temps arent bad when doing this either. i think 80's has been the tops.

#6 golly

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Posted 18 May 2008 - 08:56 PM

Better to have two smaller tubs than one big one [eggs in basket dealio]
With horse poo i prefer a bit shallower depth 2 - 3"
The more dense the sub - the thinner it can be...I seem to get better ratio of harvest with
2-3"+ casing......If no casing then a bit deeper..
As far as green mold in your jars..If they were PC'd long enough the contam was likely introduced durin innoculation or there after..Check your jar filters and use the GB for nock'n up....

#7 sporocap

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Posted 19 May 2008 - 01:43 PM

wow.....poo gets expensive real quick.........so Should he just mix the poo with the spawn inside the monotub he plans to grow it in?

#8 sporocap

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Posted 29 May 2008 - 01:43 PM

Alright...... It's looking good so far.... Mixed 10LBS if poo with 6 quart jars tuesday night and the mono tub is looking about 35 % colonized. He put a digital thermometer/hydrometer in the tub suspended just above the poo and it is reading 80° F by 45% RH..... The room ambient temp is just 67°F so Im getting a 13° rise in temp from the poo? Is this normal? how long do I wait to case? I should keep the lid on right? I can see through the sides but it is difficult with all the condensate and really want to get a good look. Im SO Exited!!!!!! Finally!!!!

#9 twoguysupnorth

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Posted 29 May 2008 - 07:44 PM

your rh should be higher. 80+% you can take the top off to mist or whatever. not to much though untill it is completely colonized, which is when you should case it.

#10 sporocap

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Posted 30 May 2008 - 11:45 PM

My foaf thinks he's ready to case..... but not sure.... The substrate is 90-95% colonized. Is this the right idea??? So To sterilize his casing layer what does he do? he plans on using Coir/verm 60/40 SO what he soaks the coir then mixes a big batch with verm... Put in Quart jars then PC at 15 psi for an hour? Then put 3/4" of casing loosely on the top???

#11 twoguysupnorth

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Posted 31 May 2008 - 12:25 AM

i personaly havent sterilized the casing, and the same one you are using(coir/verm). it could be pasturized instead, with boiling water and/or baking it in the oven at the temp. 170 deg.our lowest temp. is 200 so i leave the door cracked and it is covered in tinfoil. if it is fully colonized a thin casing seems to work.

#12 ride-like-hell

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Posted 21 January 2009 - 09:22 AM

I'd look into silicone injection ports and work out of a glovebox to be safe. Wash hands(gloved) in alcohol and mix tub by hand. Wait til 100 percent colonization to case and lightly give it an inch and a half layer of your 60/40 and step back. Dark and warm till white pokes out of casing, then cool and fan it during fruiting. Good job




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