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would you use this for a monotub?


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#21 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:29 PM

I would definitely leave the substrate in the tray. It will be hard to handle and most likely end up broken if you try to take it out.

Also, you just want it to pin on the top and edges - not on the bottom.

Make sure the tray doesn't touch the edge of the FC tub. Condensation will run down the sides of the FC and waterlog the substrate if it drains into the tray.

#22 Looky

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:34 PM

the plan for this tub is to have no perlite. in the future bulk sub will be put in here with a liner and it will be used as a monotub that way. like a standard monotub as i understand it

the question until then is, can that tray pictured just be put in there, with nothing else and use the whole setup like that as a mickey moused monotub? thanks


Sorry, wasn't paying attention. That that should work.

#23 chrisnh

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:35 PM

I would definitely leave the substrate in the tray. It will be hard to handle and most likely end up broken if you try to take it out.

Also, you just want it to pin on the top and edges - not on the bottom.

Make sure the tray doesn't touch the edge of the FC tub. Condensation will run down the sides of the FC and waterlog the substrate if it drains into the tray.


cool, so you are saying it's ok to put that tray (full of colonized dpoo soon) into the tub and treat it the same way you would as if it had been done properly as a monotub? just for this time, from now on it will be done right, but sometimes things don't work out right, spawn will colonize as it wants and the post office will deliver things when it wants lol. and as for the future, if there is exactly 3 inches of sub in the tub, how high should the start of the bottom holes be? thanks guys, always helpful :)

#24 chrisnh

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:36 PM

Sorry, wasn't paying attention. That that should work.


sweet thanks. and hey, if you were able to pay attention 100% of the time, with the number of posts you have.....i'd really question the quality of your fruits! thanks looky, always informative

#25 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:39 PM

Yep, the litter tray will fruit just fine and dandy.

A smaller tray in a larger tub is a little safer way to control humidity the first time or two, anyway.

#26 Looky

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:42 PM

3.5-4 inches. You will probably find that this is the way you want to do it in the future. It will probably be a lot easier to dunk the way that you have it now. This could end up being a very fortunate unforseen thingamajigy. I have seen a lot on monotubs made the way that this one is going to be.

#27 chrisnh

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 09:47 PM

3.5-4 inches. You will probably find that this is the way you want to do it in the future. It will probably be a lot easier to dunk the way that you have it now. This could end up being a very fortunate unforseen thingamajigy. I have seen a lot on monotubs made the way that this one is going to be.


well no shit? that just goes to show you, even a broken clock is right twice a day. btw, that is not something you wanna say when you had a huge fight with your girl and you find out you were wrong about what you were fighting about and she goes "well, do you have something to say?" wow, not a good night!

#28 Looky

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 10:11 PM

well no shit? that just goes to show you, even a broken clock is right twice a day. btw, that is not something you wanna say when you had a huge fight with your girl and you find out you were wrong about what you were fighting about and she goes "well, do you have something to say?" wow, not a good night!


She'll forget all about it by the time your next substrate is made. :eusa_sile:eusa_shhh

Yo may decide that you want to do your monotub directly in the container next time, but a lot of people have gone the way that you're doing it this time.

#29 chrisnh

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 10:13 PM

the inside dimensions of this tub are quite diff than the ones given on amazon. they are 15in by 12in by 11 in high. would 1 inch holes(seems to be the standard) covered in tyvek/micropore tape be too big for this? was thinking of having 2 on the bottom of the long sides and 2 on the top of the short sides. thanks :)

#30 Looky

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 11:02 PM

I think that would be ok. I'm not completely sure. Making a dubtub or a monotub is not really an exact science. I would do 1 less than you think you need. Since you have a cat litter box inside, you will be able to always pull it out and add another hole if necessary. The way you described is what the "monotub" looks like in the glossary under monotub. Yeah, I think what you described is how most would do it.

#31 chrisnh

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 11:16 PM

I would do 1 less than you think you need.


good thinking. or maybe just make the holes smaller(3/4in) because i like the idea of 1 hole on each side. maybe it's the ADD. then if needed at more of the smaller holes

Yeah, I think what you described is how most would do it.


niiiice

#32 eatyualive

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 10:04 AM

no, iris 44 quarts, 64 quarts, sterilite 54 quarts. look on their websites. good stuff there. the taller the better.

#33 Looky

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 10:11 AM

no, iris 44 quarts, 64 quarts, sterilite 54 quarts. look on their websites. good stuff there. the taller the better.



I was referring to the holes that he is going to drill in the sides. I think that most people with this tub would probably put 2 holes on each side, a total of 4 holes up high and 4 holes down low.

Oh, I think you were probably answering no to the original question/title of this thread..... I would have gone with a sterilite too, but he already bought this. He should be able to make it work though, don't ya think?

#34 Hippie3

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 01:10 PM

i prefer several smaller holes
so i can open/close some as needed to tweak humidity / airflow,
easier to tape too.

#35 mushhut

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 11:20 PM

Think pollyfill is the best and easiest. Just studff the holes or un stuff as needed. No glue or silicone. Chris don't know what you mean, pollyfill messy. I think tyvek and glue messy and time consuming.

#36 Looky

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 11:23 PM

i prefer several smaller holes
so i can open/close some as needed to tweak humidity / airflow,
easier to tape too.


I too like shotgun holes. Works great :thumbup: and like Hippie pointed out, there are nice advantages.

#37 chrisnh

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Posted 17 July 2008 - 02:18 AM

well by messy i mean when it gets wet and old. guess there's only one way to find out what will be the preferred way.. try them all :)

#38 chrisnh

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Posted 23 July 2008 - 02:15 AM

btw, always meant to ask this. if a monotub has holes covered with polyfill/tyvek/micropore and is sometimes never opened until harvest, so no fanning. how does it get FAE (not just gas exchange) to trigger pinning?

#39 Looky

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Posted 23 July 2008 - 02:22 AM

Light triggers pinning. Slight temperature changes will create FAE. The thread that Feds had, he said that he did no fanning the whole time, and that the slight temperature changes allowed for Co2 to escape and for O2 to be drawn in.
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#40 chrisnh

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Posted 23 July 2008 - 02:37 AM

but wouldn't that just be gas exchange and not true fae if it's going through poly/tyvek?




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