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Brewing [Psychedelic] Beer


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#21 mushit

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Posted 26 January 2006 - 08:01 PM

It would depend on how long you want to keep it. If it was just a week or two it would be OK. Any longer and contamination would come into play. There are many airbourne yeasts that love this kind of environment. Not to mention the residual sugars that are present in the solution that provide nutrients.
(the point I was trying to make originally. ;) )

#22 Hippie3

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:27 PM

any brewers here now ?

#23 mushit

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:47 PM

I used to. But I stick with the wine now.

#24 Hippie3

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:58 PM

care to share your experience, knowledge ?

#25 mushit

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Posted 28 January 2006 - 10:21 PM

As far as the beer goes, I used the kits. The one thing that really makes a difference in the flavour is the use of dextrose instead of white sugar. Gave it more body. Also, I had to cut down on the amount of sugar to use. I was getting 9% brew and three or four beer would knock your head off!!
Cleanliness is the biggest thing. Anything that touches the beer must be sterile or it may get contaminated. Sound familiar? ;)
It is pretty cheap too. About $6.00 would give you 2.5 cases of 24.

#26 anticheffy

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 02:17 PM

I brewed for several years while I was still achef and had access to a commercial dishwasher that sterilized large loads of bottles quite well.

Its too much work to do at home for me, all those bottles to wash and sterilize, and the mess to clean up, it got to be a drag so I stopped.

but man, some kick ass brews were seriously abused there for a while !!

syrup tanks from coke machine make great 5 gallon kegs, most brew shops sell all the fittings to make yourself a kick ass co2 powered keg system !!

#27 Dogfield

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 03:26 PM

Just so happens I am mashing a bitter from grain right now.
That is the hardest way, the way the commercial brewers do, but boy does it taste good. Grow my own hops too.

For a newbie brewer:
Get together materials, you will need:

1)Plastic 5 gallon bin ideally with lid

2)20 litres worth of carbonated plastic or glass soda bottles with screw lids (the bigger, the less hassle filling, I find 1 litre ideal)

3)6ft of plastic 1/4-1/2inch hose or tube.

4)40 pint homebrew kit (usually just malt extract and hop oil in a can with a yeast sachet on top)

5)2lb bag of sugar

6)Some kind of sterilisation chemical(sodium metabisulphate will do)

7)large spoon

8) measuring jug/funnel

Method

Make up a couple of pints of sterilising solution as the instructions on the packet indicate.

Slosh around clean 5 gallon bin put spoon in bin, leave for 10 minutes,pour away, and rinse bin and spoon with tap water.

Open top of homebrew kit can and sit in a bath of hot water,in a bowl or sink, just to soften the malt extract(makes it easier to pour)

Pour kit into bin.

Rinse kit can with some boiled or hot water and pour into bin.

Add sugar

Add 8 pints of hot/boiling water to the bin and stir with spoon to dissolve sugar

Make up contents of bin to 5 gallons using cold water.

Sprinkle on yeast sachet

Put on lid or cover with a clean cloth and leave at room temperature for 5-10 days or until the bubbles stop surfacing.

Make up a gallon worth of sterilising solution and put into a sink with the plug in,put the 6ft of tubing into the sink.

Stand your empty rinsed bottles on the surface next to the sink and put a couple of inches of sterilising solution into each, then top up with cold water, and leave for 10 minutes.

Fill the jug with sterilising solution and put the bottle caps in. Leave for 10 minutes.

Empty bottles and rinse with a little cold water, do the same with the lids.

Using a dry funnel, or cone of plastic/ card, put 1/2 teaspoon of sugar for every pint your bottles hold into each bottle.

Put your bottles on the floor on some paper or a cloth(easier to clean up) and raise your 5 gallon bin carefully ,trying to not disturb the sediment, onto a place at least higher than the tops of the bottles.

Drain and rinse your tubing, then hold one end into the bin just below the surface of the beer,suck the other end until you see beer coming down the tube. Shove the end from your mouth into the first bottle.

Quickly move the tube to the next bottle when you see the beer within 2 inches of the top of the first bottle. Move the end in the bin down the bin as the beer is syphoned out being careful never to let it touch the bottom.

Repeat until there is only 1 inch of beer left in the bin. Leave this as this will have alot of sediment in it.

Put the lids on the bottles and leave at room temp. for three days then move to a cooler place.

Can be drunk straight away but impoves with time, 3 weeks is a good time to wait.


(Gosh,I didn't realise what an effort it is to write such instructions. Well done to all that give such detailed methods in other parts of this forum and I am sorry if these are not up to those standards!)

#28 Hippie3

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 03:44 PM

Its too much work to do at home for me, all those bottles to wash and sterilize, and the mess to clean up, it got to be a drag so I stopped.


yeah, that's why i stopped too.

#29 Dogfield

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Posted 29 January 2006 - 05:19 PM

Not so bad if you use a kit and the big 2 litre bottles, you only need 10 for a 40 pint brew, and a couple of hours work.

I make wine as well but the latest tipple is cider.
We have a mill and a press which we use to make apple juice which we pasteurise. But this year I have 120 pints of cider on the go.
Just press the juice, throw in some yeast and leave for a few months...

#30 Hippie3

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Posted 30 January 2006 - 08:17 PM

yeah
but if yer drinking 40 pints a week
that's alot of work for a drunk.
;)

#31 mushit

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Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:10 PM

Man, I would love to get some fresh squeezed juice for cider. Tried using canned juice, but it just doesn't cut it.
I make fruit wine from apples, dandilions, elderberries, strawberries, blueberries, rhubarb, (mmmmmmmm), and everything but grapes.
Yes, Hip, it is alot of work, but it is worth it. Hee Hee:D

#32 Hippie3

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Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:13 PM

being lazy
nowadays i use a kit
and brew [vint] wine in 5 gallon batches,
much less work
and i'm awfully fond of fruit
so i make mine to my own taste preference.
often that means black cherry wine,
which i often mix into a sangria-like blend,
some cherry 7-up and cut up oranges, limes, lemons, etc.
scrumptious!
even the kiddies like it.
;)

#33 mushit

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Posted 30 January 2006 - 09:43 PM

MMMMM Black cherry spritser. /drool
There's nothing wrong with kits. In fact it has a higher success rate. No need to sterilise the fruit.
I made black cherry wine once. It was Great!! I used the wild cherry and it took alot to get enough to make 1 gal of wine. I think it finished at around 14%.

#34 Raul del Angelo

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Posted 30 January 2006 - 11:08 PM

We brew and vint, and right now I got so many cases I
had to stop. As a beginner it was hard to wait for
the beer to age a bit. Once you get a few batches
ahead and the beer can get a few months old it
is a lot better. I've tried all grain brewing and
its good its much more work.

I like the wine kits a lot. The wine you get is better
than I would generally buy from the store and
I'm always proud to share it. I think our wine is
better than most people will ever taste. Once
the initial investment is made the rest of the
costs are minimal.

If you get a batch that you don't like its easy
to distill it, leaving you with brandy. I use a
devise called a chinese still. Its easy with
no expensive equipment required. If anyone's
interested let me know and I'll share the TEK.

Peace, Raul

#35 Dogfield

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Posted 31 January 2006 - 08:37 AM

OOh, yes please. I would be interested in an easy way to distill.

#36 Raul del Angelo

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 10:12 AM

The Chinese Still is called that because it uses a
wok, a Chinese cooking pan, to provide the condensation.

The items necessary are available in most house-
holds and the procedure is pretty simple.

A large pot is used to contain the low wines,
this is the product to be distilled. I use my
brew pot which is a 5 gallon stainless pot about
12 inches in diameter. In the pot you will need
a container to collect the condensate. I use a
tall cylindrical glass piece that looks like a
flower vase. It's about 4 inches in diameter and
maybe 6-7 inches high and pretty heavy. This
sits on an inverted bowl in the bottom of the
pot. Instead of using a lid on the pot you use
a wok filled with snow or ice. Because of the
low temperature and shape of the wok the
alcohol will condense and drip into the exact
center of the pot below.

About a gallon and a half of low wines are put
in the bottom of the pot. The bowl is put in
next and inverted so there is no air trapped under
it. A bowl isn't the best to hold up the condensate
cup, a bowl or stand with a hole is preferred
to keep the condensate cup from moving about.
The condensate cup is put in next and the wok
filled with the ice or snow is last. Put it on the
stove and heat slowly. When the low wines reach
about 160 degrees F condensate will start to drip
into the cup. When you collect the first 10-20cc
(28 cc's or 3 tablespoons to the ounce) dump it
out. This contains the low alcohols and fusal
oils which are bad for you, causes hangovers.
Continue to collect and taste. The product
should be about 80 proof. When the low wines
reach much over 175 degrees F the quality of
the production will drop off quickly. If you are
distilling cider at about 10% alcohol you should
get about 1.5 pints per gallon and a half of
feedstock. Collect the condensate frequently
and taste. When the quality drops continue to
collect another 8 ounces or so. Keep this
separate and include it in the next batch.

The only problem you could have with this
is with the bowl that the condensate con-
tainer rests on. Its best to use something that
will allow bubbles trapped under it to pass
through as not to disturb the jar that catches
the booze. Just so the jar that collects the
drips isn't on the bottom of the pot or floating
in the low wines. And remember that if you
make a mistake you can always dump
it all back in and start over.

Remember this isn't fine sipping whiskey,
this is pretty raw. If you wish to
improve the quality of it, put it through
some type of water filter like a Britta
water pitcher. After 3 times through
the filter it will be so good you could serve
it to your mom.

And please if you have a question or
problem PM me.

Peace, Raul

#37 Dogfield

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Posted 02 February 2006 - 10:42 AM

Nice one Raul!
I think this would be a great way of making use of any beer or wine etc that isn't very tastey.
I find myself putting up with crap drinks sometimes just so I don't waste the alcohol.
I shall save this tek for future use.
Thanks again.
:cool:

#38 anticheffy

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Posted 08 February 2006 - 09:19 PM

hehe

I used to do that too Raul

we called the end product Boom Boom

it actualy wasnt that bad

#39 dead_diver

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Posted 09 February 2006 - 10:13 AM

Ugh, thought of beer in plastic bottles freaks me out LOL! Pop-top Grolsch bottles work great if you decide to get into brewing on a small level . You can get empties for free from most bars,etc. You can even buy replacement rubber grommets for the tops. For your first brew I would recomend a kit. Start with an ale instead of trying to lager until you start to get the hang of brewing. I still use malt in the can and add extra dry malt instead of dextrose to bring alc content up. On rare occasion I will do a partial mash but to me the difference in taste isn't big enough to go through the trouble of mashing. Coopers bitters is a good kit for beginners. It has lots of hops in it, thus the bitter name, and you can add lots of extra dry malt to it and still retain a good hoppy flavor. If you drink alot of beer then go with the soda kegs. It beats the hell out of cleaning dead roaches and lizard mummies out of beer bottles in the bathtub. I used to keep track of which bottles had dead things in them and serve those ones to my friends. Just kidding. Remember that just about any homebrew regardless of if it is from a kit or mash will taste better than the swill that is passed of by American breweries as beer.

#40 chill

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 05:56 PM

The comments about using high alcohol liquids for exctraction are correct. Also, from all the reading I've done water is a poor choice for trying to stabalize psylocibin.

You could try it, I mean it can't hurt.

I used to brew beer from scratch (grains and hops). I thought about it and decided that if I were to try it I would throw the shrooms in when I was doing the boil and then filter them out with the grains.

I would use a LOT of shrooms as I think the extraction would be low and the loss due to water high. Maybe like 5 grams per bottle, say two ounces per 12 pack.

That said I encourage you to try since you never know until you do.




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