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Good light to use in grow chamber? [elwire source]


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#1 drgonzo1969

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 06:48 PM

I wanted to make my grow chamber completely automatic. i got everything covered except for lighting. Is it ok to put a normal flourescant light in my grow chamber? Will the condensation damage the light or electricute me?

#2 Dank Side Of The Shroom

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 07:17 PM

http://www.elwirebes...com/elwire.html

get a clear one or blue. waterproof and really good in small containers.

#3 drgonzo1969

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 08:31 PM

i forgot to mention that i am going to put the light on a timer. Those lights are pretty cool though. I might consider getting some for my apartment.

#4 Guest_Peter Cottontail_*

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Posted 03 December 2005 - 08:51 PM

A fluorescent light and ballast will heat up a terrarium too much. I'd suggest putting the light on the outside of the unit.
RR

#5 obscured by clouds

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 12:13 AM

I have been starting to use HIGH Intensity LEDS.

There are so many possibilities with em. No worry about moister or heat

AND HOW ABOUT THIS a Blue Light; Luminous Intensity of 2500 - 5500mcd (bright), 472-470nm (wavelength) at 3volts...

basic wiring needed and everything else @ radio shack...cheap

easily customized to your needs......

I am working on a cool tek for this combo....:rasta:

#6 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 12:04 PM

DON'T PUT AN ELECTRIC LIGHT INSIDE YOUR GROW CHAMBER!!!!!!

At the very best, the high humidity will rust the metals inside the fixture and ruin your light within a few months. At the very worst, you could get electrocuted or start a fire. People will tell you that you can't get seriously hurt by 120 residential line voltage. THEY ARE WRONG!!!!! 120 is more than enough to kill you.

Cut a window in the top of your chamber and cover it with glass/plexiglass. Put the light OUTSIDE the chamber. If you insist on putting a light inside, get a battery operated one.

ObscuredByClouds:
DAMN! I thought I was going to be the one to break with how kick ass high intensity LEDs were! I've got a chamber lit by six of the 5500mcd items and it is working like a champ. Have you messed with any of the new 11000mcd "SuperFlux" units? They are still SO expensive, I've yet to put my money down...

Also, have you checked out any of the LED "light blubs?" I just got a 36 LED bulb from Korea that fits in a regular socket and puts out MUCH more pleasant light than an incandescent. The LED bulb has a much more complete spectrum and is FAR more comfortable to read under. And it should last roughly 12 times as long as an incandescent while consuming about 1/6 the power.

Finally, have you seen those bleeding edge NASA LED arrays? Stupid light output with almost no current consumption (and virtually ZERO heat generation). NASA has actually had successful hydroponic grows using ONLY LEDs!!!!

If you are interested in comparing notes, please shoot me a PM...

One thing I've learned: if you rough up the LED with sandpaper, you get better light diffusion. If you sand it flat on top, it kills the "focus factor" and gives you much better spread at much shorter distances.

#7 drgonzo1969

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 03:55 PM

alright, i was afraid of that. so how does one go about wiring these LEDs?

#8 obscured by clouds

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 04:31 PM

Ah ha you asked! :rasta:

It's not that bad. Here is my idea, like I said I am working on a pictorial tek.

I don't have all the info (part numbers...) yet.

But for now this is for a 3v or 12v system (easily changed for whatever)

So from the one source that I could find numbers was from the “old” mushroom cultivator book. Basically it broke down to this, suggested: 140 microwatts per 10 nanometer, per lumen of blue spectra 440-495 nm.

So with that in mind, I came across this; high intensity LED’s from here (just one example)

Model Number The Blues
Blue wave length: 470 - 472 nm
Luminous Intensity: 2400 - 18000 mcd
Viewing Angle: 15^, 30^, 45^
Power: 3.4 – 4.0 volts

(You have to either choose between the Viewing Angle and Luminous Intensity. Smaller VA stronger the LI, visa versa but this is relative to the growing area and distance from.)


Visit the local Radio Shack. Start with the power source its 3.5 - 4.0 volts or maybe 12v depending on the LEDs
There’s is a female power plug installed in to the box.

I got one of there project boxes but much better can be made.

I am using RCA jacks and a RCA “distribution plate” for power (x8), causes its low voltage and it’s convenient for me to work with.

The resister is 10 ohm. To find the "size" you need try this link

And don't for get the fuse, they can hook you up.

I solder and made plugs for every connection (got’a have flux!), no “hard wiring”. Plenty of the correct wire, connectors and heat shrink.

The RCA “distribution plate” wired and solder in parallel

The male RCA jacks are solder and the leads to connectors 4-5 inches long.

The cables, I ran the wire through tubes (air type) and each side is numbered. The reason is you can run the power and build it in your grow area; one end plugs into the power and other plugs into the light.

With the parts in hand it shouldn't take more then a hour or two....

I hope this is useful or at least thought provoking. As with everything this could be modified for your needs.

BuckarooBanzai
I will PM you with what I am working on, this is just a quick guide.


Basic part list:
LED
Resistor
Fuse
Power supply
Female adapter for power supply
RCA distribution plate
Male RCA solder type
Connectors
Wire
Solder
Flux

#9 drgonzo1969

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 06:10 PM

wow this will work perfectly for my set up. however, i am a neophyte when it comes to electrical circuits. I am sufficient with a soldering iron but thats about it. Could you give me a more detailed description of how to put this together? Maybe get some pictures? Thanks. I really appreciate the help.

#10 obscured by clouds

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 06:25 PM

wow this will work perfectly for my set up. however, i am a neophyte when it comes to electrical circuits. I am sufficient with a soldering iron but thats about it. Could you give me a more detailed description of how to put this together? Maybe get some pictures? Thanks. I really appreciate the help.


Yeah, but if you know how to solder then you half way there.

Picks will come, I'm finishing it up, so all the information will be digested and it will be a simple procedure to follow.

:rasta:

#11 chill

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 06:53 PM

something to consider is just cutting a whole in the top of the chamber and covering with plexiglass.

There is no need for lights really. Just turning the room lights on and off during normal living should be enough.

Things that I automate are heat (tub in tub with fishtank heater), air (fish tank pump) and moisture (perlite).

#12 drgonzo1969

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 07:55 PM

I thought about just going the plexiglass route but i'd rather not cut up the lid. I am trying to make my rubbermaid look as inconspicous as possible (other than the air hoses and electrical cords). that is why i want to keep the light inside the rubbermaid. plus LEDs would make my terrarium look sweet. Thanks for all the help.

#13 Grimocin

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 08:51 PM

if possible use ambient light , remember they dont need alot of light , just as long as the light source is coming from above them and its enough light were you can see the cakes within straining your eyes, then its enough. i've seen tiny 13watt mini-floro tubes that have power cords at walmart (most just use batteries) , it wouldnt heat up too much if put on a timer. my mushies only get 4 hrs of light a day from a 20watt cfl.

#14 obscured by clouds

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 08:53 PM

if possible use ambient light


yes, but for my set up there is none so.......

#15 drgonzo1969

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 09:29 PM

My terrarium doesnt let light in. I thought about using a flouro but i am not to keen on the electricution risk. By using LEDs i could position them at different positions in the terrarium thus making sure that all angles of the cakes are getting more than sufficient light. OBscuredbyclouds, let me know when you finish up your tek. i am dying to get started now.

#16 obscured by clouds

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 10:23 PM

Check this out :rasta: near completed

I'll re-post it on 'topia when I'm done......soon..........:eusa_pray

#17 ratdog

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 04:32 PM

If your too lazy, or not technically inclined enough to solder....

clear christmas lights. 99cents just about everywhere right now.... even cheaper after christmas!

you can even take out bulbs to reduce the amount of light.

the only problem i've ever had from them is if the lights touch plastic wrap for extended periods of time, you might develop holes. (dont let the lights sit on top of your fruiting chamber... suspend them from above.)

peace
- rat

#18 agentstone

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:12 PM

I wonder what kinda results you would get form using one of those small box strobe lights. I bet that would penetrate some casing:teeth: and get to that myc.

anyone ever tried or heard of that?

-Stone

#19 obscured by clouds

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 10:47 PM

anyone ever tried or heard of that?

-Stone


NO....but used to joke about growing weed on a strobe...you now your high now your not now your high your not............

Seriously though I think mutations would happen..

#20 hydrodad

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Posted 07 December 2005 - 11:47 PM

I use a low wattage flourecent placed outside and above the chambers.




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