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LED Lighting Tek......(pictorial)

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#1 obscured by clouds

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Posted 05 December 2005 - 08:54 PM

I don’t know it this is a “Tek” or suggestion or the validly of this (pictorial). I can’t say that this is a proven idea.
I had to solve my own lighting issue for my grow set up and came up with this.
I am aware of limited role light plays (pinning and direction of growth), so from the one source that I could find numbers was from the “old” mushroom cultivator book.
Basically it broke down to this, suggested: 140 microwatts per 10 nanometer, per lumen of blue spectra 440-495 nm.
So with that in mind, I came across this; high intensity LED’s from here (just one example)
Model Number the “blue lights”
Blue wave length: 470 -472 nm
Luminous Intensity: 2400 - 18000 mcd
Viewing Angle: 15^, 30^, 45^
Power: 3.4 – 4.0 volts
(You have to either choose between the Viewing Angle and Luminous Intensity. Smaller VA stronger the LI, visa versa but this is relative to the growing area and distance from.)
Possible positive: high output with minimal heat, minimal power consumption, easily adaptable like inside the fruiting chamber. Possible Negative: I don’t know…
Here’s what I did, basic parts list all of witch can be bought at Radio Shack:

  • LED’s (of your choice)
    Resistor (depending on the LED’s)
    Fuse (depending on the LED’s)
    Power Supply (depending on the LED’s) (power adaptor M type) “wall wart”
    Female adaptor for power supply (Coaxial Power Jack), preferable M type (depending on the power supply)
    Project box
    Wire (18 – 20 gauges)
    Connectors (depending on the wire)
    Solder and Flux
    RCA (male solder type)
    RCA distribution plate
Visit the local RS. Start with the LEDS that you want to use then get the power source 3.5 - 4.0 volts, or a 12v system (automotive) (power source= wall wart)
Here are some of the basic things that you’ll need…
There’s a female power plug installed in to the project box “type M” most common type. With this type there is an inner and outer um.. .connection; the inner is power and the out is ground, the third could be for an (on/off switch not used since it will be on a timer) pictured on the right / left is a RCA jack
The female power adaptor solder and heat shrink
I got one of there project boxes but better can be obtained. The hole is for the RCA “distribution plate” and power adaptor.
I am using RCA jacks and a RCA distribution plate for power (x8), causes its low voltage and it’s convenient for me to work with.
RCA “distribution plate” wired and solder in
There are inner and outer connections; the inner is power and the outer is ground, red to fuse and black to resistor.
And the fuse for the 12v is ½ amps, wired between the power adaptors / RCA dis plate on the power side.
The resister for the 12v is 10 Ohms. To find what you need try this link ,
and yes you need one. I wired it between the power adaptor and the RCA dis plate on the ground side. Then cover with a heat shrink.
I solder and made plugs for every connection (got’a have flux!), no “hard wiring”. Plenty of the correct wire, connectors and heat shrink.
On the bottom is the power adaptors (the white plugs in the wall wart cord)
RCA jacks have and inner and outer connections; the inner is power and the outer is ground pictured on the left / right is the female power adaptor
Male RCA jacks, solder and the leads to connectors (there are better ones out there, just had a bunch to get rid of). I made them about 6 inches long. The RCA leads with connectors are for the “cable”…
There are three parts the Leads (picture above), the Cables (picture below) and the end lights, I ran 18 wires through a 3/8 air tube and each side is numbered. Then I used smaller tubs for the individual LEDS. The reason is you can run the power, build it in your grow area; one end plugs into the power and other the lights.

The finished “box”, power (bottom right), fuse (bottom center), resistor (top center) RCA “plate” (bottom center)

I hope this is useful or at least thought provoking. As with everything this could be modified for your needs, go for a 12 volt system for lights and maybe a small fan to mix up the air or timed exhaust or intake (through a filter either way) .
With the parts in hand it shouldn't take more then an hour ½ to make if you take your time.
I can use any and all suggestion or critique would be appreciated.

#2 spacecowboy


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Posted 05 December 2005 - 09:03 PM

Thx for bringing this topic up,

I was just thinking about it the other day while playing with my LED flashlight that takes no batteries, just shake it for a min and you get light for 100 min.

My light also has a blue LED, and it is very bright. As for mushrooms, they need no light to grow, but it does trigger pinning, and the wavelength that triggers the pinning is in the blue wavelength but I don't know if my LED blue is in that wavelength.

Here is some more info for you to go over:


#3 MNL



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Posted 06 December 2005 - 07:18 AM

I'm playing with LEDs to get tall, straight mushrooms. Try the wide angle, or better, sand the top of a 20 degree led flat to diffuse the light. 20 degree bullet LEDs are vary focused, so you would need lots to hit every cake with any intensity. The wide ones do a better job IMO. The wide angle have lower MCDs, but that is a mathematical factor of their focus - IE same LED die cup on the inside, but light is more, or less, spread out.

I used a little blinker circuit to blip the light every so often. Its been going months on 4 AA batteries. Try a 555 timer if you have one around. Also check out the 'joule thief' for a nice way to get all the power out of your battery.

#4 Guest_Peter Cottontail_*

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Posted 06 December 2005 - 10:48 AM

Nice. People should bear in mind, the more LED's you use, the lower the required resistance of the voltage drop resistor. Voltage drop formula is I(I) X R. (current squared times resistance)

Don't read too much into the paragraph in TMC that mentions blue light. My experience is that a full spectrum lamp(such as MH) still provides the best pinset.

#5 obscured by clouds

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Posted 06 December 2005 - 10:52 PM

Nice. People should bear in mind, the more LED's you use, the lower the required resistance of the voltage drop resistor. Voltage drop formula is I(I) X R. (current squared times resistance)

Thanks RR,
That is good information to know:bow:

#6 Hippie3



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Posted 25 January 2006 - 08:30 AM


also see el wire-

elwire is great for halloween & parties

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