
Waylit's Pan cyan Tek
#1
Posted 07 October 2005 - 11:41 AM
They can be difficult at times, with this method you can grow them in 5 easy steps. This recipe was intended for P. cyanescens, but can also be used for cubensis.
1-Measure and prepare your substrate
2-Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook
3-Innoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry
4-Apply casing layer
5-Fruit your jars
I've been using plastic PP5 containers containers which work great. I can fit 9 into the PC at once, and this recipe will make 9 containers. Each lid has a 1/2 hole drilled in the top with a tyvek patch. I use a hot glue gun to apply the filter patch. Here's a pic of the lid and container.
1- Measure and prepare your substrateShred 10 cups of horse manure very finely and soak in water overnite. I like to add a half cup of bleach and hydrated lime to the water. The next day pour thru a collander and squeeze the manure out by hand. Set the manure aside, and remember it will not be pasteurized.Add 10 cups of vermiculite to a large bowl and stir in 2 cups of brown rice flour. Moisten the vermiculite and brown rice flour to field capacity using regular or distilled water.
Combine the BRF/Verm with the horse manure and mix it up really well. You want to evenly distribute the brown rice flour.
2- Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook
Gently pack down the substrate so there's no big air spaces. As usual, add a nice layer of dry vermiculite on top. Seal the lids and cover with aluminum foil. Sterilize in the pressure cooker for 1 hour.
3- Innoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry
If you only have spores, you can also use this substrate recipe. Starting with spores will add about 1 week to the colonization time. My agar method goes as follows, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto a colonized agar plate. Using the needle tip, mix up the mycelium and water and draw the slurry back into the syringe. No need to dig into the agar layer, just scrape the mycelium off the surface of the agar. Inoculate the containers with 6 cc of mycelium water. They'll be colonized within 15 days and ready to fruit.
4-Apply casing layer
I like to use 50/50 cactus mix and vermiculite. Before mixing in the vermiculite, add hydrated lime and gypsum to the cactus mix, this will help pH balance the casing layer. This casing mix works great for Pans, it has good aeration and is fairly contam resistant. The cactus mix contains forest humus, sphaghnum peat moss, earthworm castings, and sand. I pasteurize the casing mix for 1 hour. After it cools, apply the casing layer 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Hydrate the casing layer really well and cover the jars with foil for a few days. Usually 2-3 days is sufficient, this gives the the mycelium a chance to recover. Make sure to poke a few holes in the foil to allow air exchange and prevent cobweb mold.
5- Fruit your jars
Finally! The fun part. Remove the foil from the jars and place them into the fruiting chamber. Only mist the casing if it's dry. Misting the mycelium can delay pinset, and misting pins can cause aborts. Pans will normally start pinning 7-10 days after casing. Just remember to keep the temps warm, the air fresh, and the humidity high. That's it for Waylit's Pan cyan Tek.
Good Luck ;)
~Waylitjim
- the_other_chap, Foster, coorsmikey and 15 others like this
#6
Guest_golly_*
Posted 07 October 2005 - 02:05 PM
#7
Posted 11 October 2005 - 05:58 PM
or do you angle the needle and innoc. at several points pf style?
#8
Posted 11 October 2005 - 06:19 PM
The jars are fully colonized in 2 weeks time, and ready for phase II.
If you plan on using spores, I recommend adding a bit more BRF to
the formula. I believe Golly is trying equal parts manure, verm and BRF.
#9
Posted 11 October 2005 - 06:43 PM
#10
Posted 11 October 2005 - 07:04 PM
#11
Guest_golly_*
Posted 11 October 2005 - 08:11 PM
In one set of jars there was only 1 innoc point and they are running way behind but should colo soon...5 have been cased and awaiting pinning..
btw "Gladware" is all pp5
- Thatmonk likes this
#12
Posted 11 October 2005 - 08:27 PM
#13
Posted 11 October 2005 - 09:01 PM
#14
Posted 11 October 2005 - 10:04 PM
Very cool and informative grow log. What's the humidity and air exchange gotta be kept at
for the cyans to grow at a steady rate?
Pans like it a bit warmer then cubs:
Incubation & Spawn run - 79-84°F
Cropping - 75-80° F with relative humidity @ 85-92%
These were kept in a greenhouse which stayed warm and humid with lots of fresh air.
A humidifier was set to run every other hour for one hour. Air exchange was provided with
an air pump and tubing which directs fresh air to the different shelves of the greenhouse.
Optimal air exchange is twice an hour, although I like continuous fresh air.
were do u get the containers pp5
Look for any polypropylene containers that have the (PP5) stamp.
They usually have the rating in a triangle on the bottom.
#15
Posted 11 October 2005 - 10:31 PM
Do you place the tubs or anything on this pad? or is it placed at the bottom of your greenhouse?
#16
Posted 11 October 2005 - 11:29 PM
The thermostat has a temperature control range of 68-95 deg F. Smaller mats are available,
but mine is (48 in. X 20 in.) It's placed on the bottom shelf of the greenhouse, with nothing
sitting directly on top of it. It's recommended to use a thermostat, but if you don't, make sure
you get a quality heat mat...otherwise it could be a fire hazard. The Hydrofarm mats are made
really well, meaning they don't overheat, so you don't really need the thermostat.
- Cigarsam likes this
#17
Posted 12 October 2005 - 12:46 AM
#18
Posted 12 October 2005 - 10:44 PM
Here's an isolate of Goliath that's being tested out.
The 3 factors when choosing an isolate were:
Pinset, Size, and Quickness.
Do you think one of these days you can go through a step by step process of this isolation method. It would be nice to see the genetic selection in progress. I would also love to see this TEK in the main TEK page.
- tattoo22 likes this
#19
Posted 13 October 2005 - 12:19 AM
cubensis or cyanescens, you'll need to find a superior substrain. It's best to
start with just one drop of spore solution on agar and then seperate the
strongest growth to new dishes untill you're down to only one substrain per
dish, then you can fruit each substrain. This process can take a while, but
in the end, you end up with a master culture which can be kept for years.
RR did a nice writeup on this a while back, here's the link.
Mycotopia Web Archive: Strain-Isolation on-Agar.-w/pix
- Black_Swan likes this
#20
Guest_pcsillypj_*
Posted 13 October 2005 - 04:06 PM
matter how many iso's he did with the pans
he could never get a good substrain....lol
but maybe he just had bad luck...