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Waylit's Pan cyan Tek


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#1 waylitjim

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 11:41 AM

I've been working on a recipe to simplify growing Pan cyans.
They can be difficult at times, with this method you can grow them in 5 easy steps. This recipe was intended for P. cyanescens, but can also be used for cubensis.

1-Measure and prepare your substrate
2-Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook
3-Innoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry
4-Apply casing layer
5-Fruit your jars

I've been using plastic PP5 containers containers which work great. I can fit 9 into the PC at once, and this recipe will make 9 containers. Each lid has a 1/2 hole drilled in the top with a tyvek patch. I use a hot glue gun to apply the filter patch. Here's a pic of the lid and container.



1- Measure and prepare your substrateShred 10 cups of horse manure very finely and soak in water overnite. I like to add a half cup of bleach and hydrated lime to the water. The next day pour thru a collander and squeeze the manure out by hand. Set the manure aside, and remember it will not be pasteurized.Add 10 cups of vermiculite to a large bowl and stir in 2 cups of brown rice flour. Moisten the vermiculite and brown rice flour to field capacity using regular or distilled water.
Combine the BRF/Verm with the horse manure and mix it up really well. You want to evenly distribute the brown rice flour.
2- Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook
Gently pack down the substrate so there's no big air spaces. As usual, add a nice layer of dry vermiculite on top. Seal the lids and cover with aluminum foil. Sterilize in the pressure cooker for 1 hour.

3- Innoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry
If you only have spores, you can also use this substrate recipe. Starting with spores will add about 1 week to the colonization time. My agar method goes as follows, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto a colonized agar plate. Using the needle tip, mix up the mycelium and water and draw the slurry back into the syringe. No need to dig into the agar layer, just scrape the mycelium off the surface of the agar. Inoculate the containers with 6 cc of mycelium water. They'll be colonized within 15 days and ready to fruit.

4-Apply casing layer
I like to use 50/50 cactus mix and vermiculite. Before mixing in the vermiculite, add hydrated lime and gypsum to the cactus mix, this will help pH balance the casing layer. This casing mix works great for Pans, it has good aeration and is fairly contam resistant. The cactus mix contains forest humus, sphaghnum peat moss, earthworm castings, and sand. I pasteurize the casing mix for 1 hour. After it cools, apply the casing layer 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep. Hydrate the casing layer really well and cover the jars with foil for a few days. Usually 2-3 days is sufficient, this gives the the mycelium a chance to recover. Make sure to poke a few holes in the foil to allow air exchange and prevent cobweb mold.

5- Fruit your jars
Finally! The fun part. Remove the foil from the jars and place them into the fruiting chamber. Only mist the casing if it's dry. Misting the mycelium can delay pinset, and misting pins can cause aborts. Pans will normally start pinning 7-10 days after casing. Just remember to keep the temps warm, the air fresh, and the humidity high. That's it for Waylit's Pan cyan Tek.

Good Luck ;)
~Waylitjim

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#2 waylitjim

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 12:49 PM

Here's some Pan Cambos fruiting in containers:

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#3 waylitjim

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 12:53 PM

Here's Goliath showing off it's heavy spore load ;)

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#4 waylitjim

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 01:22 PM

Here's an isolate of Goliath that's being tested out.
The 3 factors when choosing an isolate were:
Pinset, Size, and Quickness.
These are one day away from harvest.

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#5 waylitjim

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 01:30 PM

And the final shots before decapitation ;)

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#6 Guest_golly_*

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 02:05 PM

Good save Waylit...mine are still a cookin..was gonna rate this thread but there's no rating mushies yet....

#7 red_lenses

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 05:58 PM

Jim when you shoot the jars(spores) do you just innoc.through the hole in 1 point?
or do you angle the needle and innoc. at several points pf style?

#8 waylitjim

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 06:19 PM

I remove the lid and use 3 or 4 inoculation points, with 6 cc's of LC.
The jars are fully colonized in 2 weeks time, and ready for phase II.
If you plan on using spores, I recommend adding a bit more BRF to
the formula. I believe Golly is trying equal parts manure, verm and BRF.

#9 red_lenses

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 06:43 PM

How many cc's of spores would you use?

#10 BennyBlanco

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 07:04 PM

were do u get the containers pp5

#11 Guest_golly_*

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 08:11 PM

On my jars/tubs i put a layer of tin foil right under the lid , so to innoculate ijust unscrew the metal lid and shoot right through the foil in 6 places using about half a cc/ml per hole...the foil just helps to reduce the exposure of the substrate...then srew lid back on...the same could be done with a plastic tub and plastic wrap...
In one set of jars there was only 1 innoc point and they are running way behind but should colo soon...5 have been cased and awaiting pinning..
btw "Gladware" is all pp5
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#12 rockawayrooms

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 08:27 PM

Very nice indeedy Jim,thanks fer sharing your tek!!:rasta:

#13 Old_Recordings

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 09:01 PM

Dope additional pictures. Very cool and informative grow log. What's the humidity and air exchange gotta be kept at for the cyans to grow at a steady rate?

#14 waylitjim

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 10:04 PM

Very cool and informative grow log. What's the humidity and air exchange gotta be kept at
for the cyans to grow at a steady rate?


Pans like it a bit warmer then cubs:
Incubation & Spawn run - 79-84°F
Cropping - 75-80° F with relative humidity @ 85-92%
These were kept in a greenhouse which stayed warm and humid with lots of fresh air.
A humidifier was set to run every other hour for one hour. Air exchange was provided with
an air pump and tubing which directs fresh air to the different shelves of the greenhouse.
Optimal air exchange is twice an hour, although I like continuous fresh air.

were do u get the containers pp5


Look for any polypropylene containers that have the (PP5) stamp.
They usually have the rating in a triangle on the bottom.

#15 shobimono

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 10:31 PM

You had mentioned that you use a heating pad. What brand? Is it a reptile pad or a seedling pad? or are they the same thing?
Do you place the tubs or anything on this pad? or is it placed at the bottom of your greenhouse?

#16 waylitjim

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 11:29 PM

The heat mat is made by Hydrofarm, they make the best (safest) heat mats on the market.
The thermostat has a temperature control range of 68-95 deg F. Smaller mats are available,
but mine is (48 in. X 20 in.) It's placed on the bottom shelf of the greenhouse, with nothing
sitting directly on top of it. It's recommended to use a thermostat, but if you don't, make sure
you get a quality heat mat...otherwise it could be a fire hazard. The Hydrofarm mats are made
really well, meaning they don't overheat, so you don't really need the thermostat.

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#17 SmellMyFingers

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 12:46 AM

:bow: Nice...very nice:bow:

#18 SporesMan

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 10:44 PM

Here's an isolate of Goliath that's being tested out.
The 3 factors when choosing an isolate were:
Pinset, Size, and Quickness.



Do you think one of these days you can go through a step by step process of this isolation method. It would be nice to see the genetic selection in progress. I would also love to see this TEK in the main TEK page.
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#19 waylitjim

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 12:19 AM

The process of strain isolation is the same with all species, whether it's
cubensis or cyanescens, you'll need to find a superior substrain. It's best to
start with just one drop of spore solution on agar and then seperate the
strongest growth to new dishes untill you're down to only one substrain per
dish, then you can fruit each substrain. This process can take a while, but
in the end, you end up with a master culture which can be kept for years.
RR did a nice writeup on this a while back, here's the link.
Mycotopia Web Archive: Strain-Isolation on-Agar.-w/pix
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#20 Guest_pcsillypj_*

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 04:06 PM

RR was saying in a post a while back no
matter how many iso's he did with the pans
he could never get a good substrain....lol
but maybe he just had bad luck...




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