Paradox
©
Fisana

Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Making a Still from your Pressure Cooker :)


  • Please log in to reply
26 replies to this topic

#1 Soliver

Soliver

    Deviant

  • OG VIP
  • 3,212 posts

Awards Bar:

Posted 01 May 2009 - 09:49 PM

Sorry for the delay in posting these pics, but here they are :)

Overall, it took about two hours to set this up. My first (and so far,
only) run was a three gallon batch of:

3 quarts blended, canned pears from my tree
three pounds cane sugar

Boiled for about 45 minutes, tossed in bucket, bread yeast from the
grocery store tossed when it reached 'just right' hand-warm temperature,
fermented for two weeks, strained and dumped into the still.

I won't lie to you: the resulting product wouldn't sell in the current
marketplace, but it was liquor, and does the job :) Got about 3/4 of a
pint of fairly potent liquor out of it, and for what it's worth, I drank it
all, (not in one night) didn't die, go blind, or get any more hungover
than I would've from any other liquor.

I tossed the first 100mls just to be safe. If anyone has any questions,
etc., I'm happy to post more details (the pics of the ghetto rig sorta
speak for themselves) if anyone wants more info...

Just goes to show that you don't NEED a fancy setup to do this, although
it would probably result in a superior product. As it stands, if society as
we know it grinds to a halt, I can now make beer, soap, AND liquor.

Armageddon fiesta at Soliver's house :)

Attached Thumbnails

  • Still.JPG
  • Still Lid.JPG
  • Still Setup.JPG
  • Still Lid Close.JPG
  • Sol Still.JPG

  • Frequency likes this

#2 hyphaenation

hyphaenation

    Former Staff

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 13,661 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:33 PM

I can now make beer, soap, AND liquor.


... AND potent plant extracts , while reclaiming the solvents. :eusa_thin

Not to say you'd do that ...

#3 redenbacher

redenbacher

    Mycophiliac

  • Expired Member
  • 99 posts

Posted 02 May 2009 - 12:54 AM

Now, I know about the way someone can make hash extract using a pressure cooker (erm, through hearsay...) but is there any way to extract mushrooms using one? Because that'd be cool...

#4 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 02 May 2009 - 07:15 AM

Now, I know about the way someone can make hash extract using a pressure cooker (erm, through hearsay...) but is there any way to extract mushrooms using one? Because that'd be cool...

psilocybin dissolves easily in most solvents including water
so not much point.
plus the heat of a pc would destroy much magic.

#5 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 02 May 2009 - 07:15 AM

Sorry for the delay in posting these pics, but here they are :)

Overall, it took about two hours to set this up. My first (and so far,
only) run was a three gallon batch of:

3 quarts blended, canned pears from my tree
three pounds cane sugar

Boiled for about 45 minutes, tossed in bucket, bread yeast from the
grocery store tossed when it reached 'just right' hand-warm temperature,
fermented for two weeks, strained and dumped into the still.

I won't lie to you: the resulting product wouldn't sell in the current
marketplace, but it was liquor, and does the job :) Got about 3/4 of a
pint of fairly potent liquor out of it, and for what it's worth, I drank it
all, (not in one night) didn't die, go blind, or get any more hungover
than I would've from any other liquor.

I tossed the first 100mls just to be safe. If anyone has any questions,
etc., I'm happy to post more details (the pics of the ghetto rig sorta
speak for themselves) if anyone wants more info...

Just goes to show that you don't NEED a fancy setup to do this, although
it would probably result in a superior product. As it stands, if society as
we know it grinds to a halt, I can now make beer, soap, AND liquor.

Armageddon fiesta at Soliver's house :)

solly,
is that a thermometer sticking up there ?

#6 Guest_jay pheno_*

Guest_jay pheno_*
  • Guest

Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:17 AM

love this kinda stuff , but are you worried at all about the aluminum ?
ive read that alchohal under pressure with heat can dissovle it to some point where it carries over into the booze ,, ph of the mash contributes also .

ive got a 8 foot off set head still here ,ive held off finishing this one becuase i couldnt find a stainless steel beer keg for the boiler , im afriad of aluminum allready got alzheimer's from excessive weed smokeage , what was i talking about an why am i nekkid ,,, lol

ooh , i remember now neat still bro ! first one i made was after i started trying to learn to make beer an wine ,, every batch i made tasted like rotton camel pee, had excess booze that tasted like assholes so looked into makeing a still to get rid of all the awefull booze i made , lol

#7 Soliver

Soliver

    Deviant

  • OG VIP
  • 3,212 posts

Awards Bar:

Posted 02 May 2009 - 10:20 AM

Yep - I used the rubber end of a syringe plunger (they pop right off) as a gasket to
plug the "emergency over-pressure" hole that is usually plugged by a hard plastic
plug. Poke a hole in the syringe-plunger tip, work it into the hole, then stick your
thermometer in there.

Knowing the temp of the vapors is essential, as methanol / ethanol, etc., evaporate
at different temperatures - example, if the vapor temp is in the mid 60's, you're distilling methanol, so you dump that part out (well, here's a link that says it better than
I ever could)
http://www.homedistiller.org/
follow: distilling - distilling the wash - distilling

Ethanol burns off at 78 degrees, so when your temps start shooting up over that,
your distillation is pretty much finished, anything left coming out is considered "tails."

At least, that's my understanding of it all.

The pop-up valve on my PC screws apart in two peices, so I took it off and used a
brass bolt, a few washers, and a random gasket I had laying arond to plug it up.

As you can see, I drilled a synthetic wine cork with two different sized holes to attach
the coil to the PC outlet, then used two hose clamps to tighten it all up.
Ghetto, but it works, and when I'm all done, I can return my PC to PC operation in about
three minutes. the copper coil is also my "wort chiller" for beer brewing, so I don't have
to hide any of my setup out in the woods or inside the walls.

I haven't read anything about aluminum and ethanol reacting weirdly, but I have
seen a lot of boilers made from aluminum, especially modified beer kegs and 1/2 kegs.
By the by, the ethanol isn't EVER under pressure, it's an open-atmosphere system.
One bonus of using a PC is safety: if you boiler ever DOES get blocked / clogged,
you'll know it before it becomes a safety issue, as long as you keep a checkout on
your pressure gauge... if it goes up, something is seriously wrong.

My next project will be a copper reflux column. I have all the tools, and a bit of
experience with soldering copper pipe, all I need now is the time (unlike Mick, time
is NOT on my side these days :) )

I have wondered about distilling a shroom-mash, but like Hip said, it dissolves so well
into straight ethanol, why bother?
Now, a hempen brew may be a different situation... If one were to make a mash using
male plants, trimmings, etc., would the THC evaporate with the ethanol, or would it
be left in the pot?
It'll be forever until I ever have enough material to even consider, but it's an interesting
question.

:)

soliver

#8 hyphaenation

hyphaenation

    Former Staff

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 13,661 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 02 May 2009 - 10:24 AM

would the THC evaporate with the ethanol, or would it
be left in the pot?


Stays in the pot ... the honey pot ! :rasta:

*hint* as your hempen mash (which was well strained) gets lower , you slip it into a stainless steel bowl and set back in your honey pot. Now it will adhere to the bowl which is easy to scrape with forceps and a blade.

Had you done it completely in the pot you'd be scraping the bottom of the pot to get it. Much , much easier this way and less chance of burning it.

#9 Soliver

Soliver

    Deviant

  • OG VIP
  • 3,212 posts

Awards Bar:

Posted 02 May 2009 - 09:55 PM

Hyph-

I've read your post ten times and have come to the conclusion that
I have no idea what the hell you're talking about...

clarification?

:)

soliver

#10 hyphaenation

hyphaenation

    Former Staff

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 13,661 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 03 May 2009 - 12:40 AM

Soliver pardon me I was a bit elusive in my answer. Here's what I meant. I'll write it as a mini-tek:

Posted Image



Honey Oil Tek 4 Soliver


By honey pot I meant your PC. I grew up calling the vessel a "honey pot" and it kinda stuck.

Basic soak:

Depending on the solvent soak times will vary. You can use isopropyl , alcohol and others but I would recommend petroleum ether (white gass , naptha). Used it for many , many years without incident. I'll go ahead and explain as if you were using pet-ether (esso iosol is the brand I use). You can replace the ether with something else if you choose.

Soak Cannabis trim , leaf or bud for 2 to 3 hours at room temperature , preferably in a glass gallon jar. After the allotted time pour this through a large coffee filter into another glass gallon jar. If you have lots of material to use the second jar can be filled with weed to double the oil in the solution.

So now you have a jar of wet weed and a 3/4 filled jar of ether solution that was filtered. Notice its not green because either is much more selective than isopropyl (which would be dark green with chlorophyl). Rinse the leaf-filled jar with a small amount of ether and pour that through the filter. Improvise an implement to squeeze the last drops out of the leaf jar (precious juice!).

Now discard the leaf in the jar outside so it can compost (as is its flamable)
Take your gallon jar of solvent (doubly impregnated with oil if you soaked two batches of material) and add it to your PC honey pot. Depending on the size of your unit you may do half a time.

They way I do it is to take the PC outside , open it , add the oil-laden solvent , close it properly (double check) and return it to the still and hook it up properly (triple check).

Slowly start to heat the PC honey pot. Let heat build ... slowly. Ether has a lower boiling point than water and with start to evaporate quickly. Ideally you have a metal escape pipe that has a thick poly tube chunk attached , perhaps 4 inches long (im talking the very rigid stuff) and that is clamped tightly to both the copper coming from the PC and the still line. This is a view window and you can see the vapors trailing through. This comes in handy to know if you are close to done (way less vapors visible towards the end of the process).

I hope I haven't lost you in my explanation. I'll continue ...

As the crock heats up to perhaps medium to medium high heat you will see vapors in the tube , if you have no view tube you will start to see drips into your reclamation vessel. Slow at first and then it starts pouring out. magically its clean , as if it was never used. Everything is in the PC ...
So you watch closely and as the constant pouring becomes dripping again you know you are close. Now is time for what I was explaining :
Turn heat off and unplug heat source if possible (avoid sparks, open the window that you close to conveniently). Unhook still pipe from PC crock and take crock pot outside. Open it. Thick liquid inside , a small pool.

Now if you were to just finish the run as is and you evaporate all the solution out ... the oil will adhere to the bottom of the PC. Not so easy to scrape and can be a mess (experience tells me this). Thats why I mentioned the stainless steel bowl. They come in many (choose one that fits inside your PC) sizes and if you pour the last bit of solvent-oil into the bowl while its hot it easily comes right out entirely.

Place the bowl inside your PC. Lower it in carefully. Place lid back on , hook up still , turn on heat , watch for vapor , watch for drips. Don't turn it on high , just as high as you need to hear it boiling and rumbling inside and no higher unless there are no drips.

When the dripping slows right down to single drips like a tap your done. Remove the PC take it outside, open it and carefully take the bowl out (or wait a bit). The last step is taking a hair dryer to the bowl to chase the last of the solvent and water out of the oil. Most of the oil will adhere to the bowl solidly at this point but there will be a leading wet edge that you chase around as you turn the bowl on an angle.

When the oil is completely done it will stick right to the bowl solidly. Let it cool and scrape it up with a razor blade.

This is what I call basic honey oil. There are several steps to clean it up to make the best product you've ever seen (just a guess) but i'll save that for my next post if you have an interest.

So now you have a bowl of oil and your solvent back.

More later if you want ...

Cheers

PS: I found a link where I describe the process cleaning up the above to make red honey oil ... "the red oil" of renown.

http://mycotopia.net...html#post436057

and another go at explaining the remaining processes.

http://mycotopia.net...html#post434278

Attached: finished pure honey oil

Attached Thumbnails

  • hun.JPG

  • Frequency likes this

#11 Frequency

Frequency

    Code Demon

  • OG VIP
  • 1,705 posts

Posted 03 May 2009 - 01:21 AM

Hyph-

I've read your post ten times and have come to the conclusion that
I have no idea what the hell you're talking about...

clarification?


I believe he was simply suggesting that you put your material into a metal bowl which is easy to remove and scrape as apposed to direct contact to the PC which would be (I would imagine) a pain in the ass to scrape.

Awesome thread and teks! :eusa_clap

#12 hyphaenation

hyphaenation

    Former Staff

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 13,661 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 03 May 2009 - 01:27 AM

I believe he was simply suggesting that you put your material into a metal bowl which is easy to remove and scrape as apposed to direct contact to the PC which would be (I would imagine) a pain in the ass to scrape.


Bingo.

#13 Dan Dare

Dan Dare

    Pilot of the Future

  • Free Member
  • 201 posts

Posted 03 May 2009 - 07:19 AM

I've built many stills over the years, including one from a pressure cooker, similar to the one described except I used a quickfit glass condenser (& still head w/thermometer). The problem you'll find (or have found) is that some of the yeast will carry over and is difficult to remove (easily detected by odour and taste), even if a column is employed. I used a vigreux column (to increase reflux) and still had discernible yeast carry over (even after multiple redistillations).
An easy surefire way of removing it is to combine your final distillate with a little activated carbon, mix well and vacuum filter and you'll be left with clear, pure distillate.
  • Hippie3 likes this

#14 HuckFinn

HuckFinn

    Mycophiliac

  • Expired Member
  • 42 posts

Posted 03 May 2009 - 07:48 AM

Nice ghetto rig soliver, you must have done sonething right. afaik most 1st timers say their hootch is nearly undrinkable. i still have a bottle from my 1st run (which was better than i expected) that im holding onto so i can look back and realize what a noob i was.

stills are like women, they all have their own personality and each wants to be worked in their own special way. which definitely adds too the learning curve. just keep good notes on operating temps, sg. of wort, head/tail cuts, etc... and the product will just get better and better. makes me want to build a pot still so i can make some absinthe
glhf soliver :eusa_clap

#15 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 05 May 2009 - 08:38 AM

what kind of thermometer did you use there ?

can a pc with no pressure gauge be used [safely] ?

#16 TVCasualty

TVCasualty

    Embrace Your Damage

  • OG VIP
  • 10,867 posts

Awards Bar:

Posted 05 May 2009 - 08:59 AM

IMO it can so long as it's not closed up, but all I got is my opinion.



Sweet setup you got there, Soliver! And I like hyph's honey oil tek a lot too. I've been making the green oil nastiness for a while (using 100% alcohol to extract) and can really only tolerate it when I melt it into chocolate. I also isomerize it before flashing off the last of the alcohol (lower the pH to ~1.0 for a few hours, then neutralize -I use 100% H2SO4 at 5 drops per ounce of weed or trim and a 1/4 teaspoon baking soda per 5 drops of acid to neutralize). Doing this can potentially boost potency 2-6 times depending on starting material; the more 'couch lock' you get from the weed, the greater the potentiation since the couch lock is from CBD, an inactive resin that isomerization makes into active THC, plus all the THC is made higher-rotating so the overall effects are a beautiful body buzz and a clean, clear, but still very stoned head.

I think doing an alcohol extract of the weed first, then re-extracting with the ether would be great for large amounts since it would require a lot less ether since all the cellulose would already be gone.

And you could make the alcohol with your PC still; that's a nice self-sufficient closed-loop production system! [Note: you can make your ethanol 100% pure w/ a molecular sieve such as 3 angstrom zeolite]

#17 hyphaenation

hyphaenation

    Former Staff

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 13,661 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 05 May 2009 - 11:17 AM

I think doing an alcohol extract of the weed first, then re-extracting with the ether would be great for large amounts since it would require a lot less ether since all the cellulose would already be gone.


True & Truer ...

Btw: Apologies if any of this herbal extract talk has muddied up your excellent thread Soliver , got off on an explanation tangent.

#18 Soliver

Soliver

    Deviant

  • OG VIP
  • 3,212 posts

Awards Bar:

Posted 05 May 2009 - 09:10 PM

what kind of thermometer did you use there ?

can a pc with no pressure gauge be used [safely] ?



I used a standard meat thermometer purchased from a home-store... I now
have a nicer / easier to read digital meat thermometer that I plan on using
next time.

Most boilers don't have pressure gauges, so you should be AOK. It's an open
system, and you really only have to worry about blockages if you're boiling a
chunky mash, or if you're using a super-small gauge coil... along those lines,
don't use a coil that has a crimp (from over-excited bending), as these spots
are likely to block up, if anything will.

If you're sure to keep an eye on it the entire time, you'll KNOW if there's
a blockage. It's really quite simple, although making a superior product
is, I'm sure, like all these things, an art :)

soliver

#19 Shadowlord

Shadowlord

    Shadowmancer.

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 4,933 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 10 May 2009 - 12:55 PM

Thanks Soliver,
Cool thread on PC conversion.
As is usually the case here at Mycotopia, I learned more than I thought.
On top of the PC still, I get Hyph's Honey oil info!
After making lots of ISO oil, I look forward to trying the cleanup tek to get that red oil. Rather than that green that becomes kinda amber.
Always get more than you come for here at 'Topia!

Thanks Soliver and Hyph!

#20 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 12 May 2009 - 03:46 AM

wash out the chlorophyll with a water soak before doing the extraction= green gone




Like Mycotopia? Become a member today!