Paradox
©
Fisana

Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

redworm farming


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 11:59 AM

If you are looking for a way to earn extra income, a retirement job, or even a new livelihood, then raising earthworms might just be the thing. This is one occupation that will certainly keep you close to the soil—sometimes up to your elbows in it. Posted Image [/SIZE][/FONT]
The primary market for your squirming livestock is the ever growing recreational fishing market. Most people who are heading out for an afternoon of fishing simply don’t have the time or place to dig up a can full of lively fishing worms. You can fill their need for live bait by having good, healthy bait worms available.
To help prepare this article, I spoke with a veteran worm wrangler from down in Slocomb, Alabama. That’s where Tom Bowe and his partner Lorraine Brashear live and raise redworms on their nine-acre homestead.
When they began, they started with little more than a handful of starter stock, purchased from a worm vendor in neighboring Georgia. They fed and raised them for a year before making the first sale. However, that amounted to nearly $1400!
Tom and Lorraine don’t normally sell the worms on a retail basis. They do, however, ship thousands of worms to places as far away as Washington state. They sell much of their stock to worm “bait runners.” These are the guys who buy cupped bait wholesale, then head out on a wide route to resell it to vendors all over their area. Selling to the runners is also good for Tom and Lorraine. When packaging worms for the runners, Tom cups them up in small containers that look sort of like extra short cottage cheese containers. The small blue cups are available from a food supply company and are the same type of cup that convenience store delis use to put potato salad or coleslaw in. In some areas, Styrofoam cups are used for the same purpose.
I asked Tom why he raised redworms instead of other types of worms. He said he has tried others but has found the redworms to be hardy, tolerating both the heat of Alabama summers and the 10 to 15 degree cold snaps that they often get in winter. Redworms also don’t have to be refrigerated like many other types of worms. They can also take a lot of moisture. They can tolerate overwatering better than most other types of worms. Redworms are very prolific and they grow very well and very fast. Tom said redworms can double in volume every two to three months. They are the easiest livestock to raise.
Tom usually keeps the main breeding population in pits dug into the clay soil with a roof overhead. The pits are about a foot and a half deep and 6-8 feet wide, and are filled with peat moss and rich feed. The soil itself is heavy clay, so the wigglers aren’t too eager to go burrowing out of the loose diggings of their happy home. Once they are coming along, he moves them into the rows of blue plastic barrel halves to “finish,” that is, to fatten and finish growing. From there, they are cupped and sold or packaged and shipped.
You can also raise your worms in other containers. Old chest freezers or bathtubs make excellent worm beds and are at a convenient working height. Concrete blocks can be used to frame up a worm bed, and I’ve seen illustrations of rows of large plastic storage tubs lining shelves inside a garage or outbuilding. Each tub contained its own population of worms. With any worm container, be sure to provide a few drain holes, covered with some fine screen or mesh to allow excess water to drain. The mesh will keep any errant wigglers from escaping. Tom uses only peat moss for bedding. It is light, loose, and fairly inexpensive when purchased in quantity at some of the big home supply stores.
Posted Image Worm castings

In addition to the worms, another market exists for the worm “castings.” That’s what they call worm poo, a highly sought after by-product that can be sold as fertilizer for $1 a pound or more. Worm castings are very rich in nitrogen, phosphate, calcium, magnesium, potash, and other nutrients.
Once your worms have been in place for some three or four months, they should have created a usable supply of castings. To harvest, just dump the contents of the bin onto a flat surface. Hang a bright light over the pile and the worms will head to the bottom of the heap. Begin picking through the old bedding, which should be full of castings. Work slowly and check to be sure that the worms are heading downward and are not being removed with the old bedding and castings. Look also for the small yellowish-colored egg capsules. Each one of those contains up to 20 or so baby worms. Be sure to put those back in with the worms. You may also use this opportunity to divide some of the worms into new bins or remove them for cupping. End up by adding some fresh bedding to the original bin to replace what was removed.
Use the castings/compost as you would any other ultra-rich soil amendment in moderation. It is rich stuff and will really give your plants a boost.
An enterprising worm rancher can easily add worm castings to their product list. Tom told me that he has considered getting more into that part of the business, but currently applies the castings from their operation to parts of their own homestead.
Feeding the herd

Feeding your redworms doesn’t have to be really scientific. Provide them with a diet of simple vegetable materials. While they aren’t particularly finicky in their dining habits, they do have a few likes and dislikes. Kitchen scraps are great. Here are a few other feeding tips to keep in mind.
DO feed:

  • Fruit and vegetable scraps, peelings, and trimmings
  • Coffee grounds and filters as well as teabags
  • Eggshells, the more finely crushed the better
  • A few old paper napkins, towels, tissues, cardboard scraps, etc.
  • Chopped plant trimmings
AVOID feeding:

  • Litter box refuse (including cat litter and droppings)
  • Animal matter including meat and bones
  • Milk and other dairy items
If you have a friendly relationship with a local grocery store, you might be able to come up with outdated produce to feed to your worms.
Over the years, Tom and Lorraine have found that their customers order for various reasons. They want to:

  • Start their own worm business
  • Sell bait to vendors
  • Raise worms so they never have to buy bait again
  • Create the biggest, baddest compost pile in their neighborhood
Tom and Lorraine currently raise their redworms in a sizeable 20' x 70' worm barn. They have millions of worms in their pits and barrels and will get orders for up to 2000 cups per week during the busy season.
It’s not all been a bed of roses…or redworms, as the case may be. Tom has accidentally killed plenty of worms over the past 10 years. He said that the best ways to kill worms is to add too much fresh, hot manure to the worm bed, or to let the worms get too dry. Although you can drown worms, they can take too much moisture a lot more readily than they can stand being too dry.

Worm veterinarian There are just a few problems that might occur in the worm beds, whether they are in the ground or in bins. The table below might give you a few ideas on solving some of the more common problems.
Posted Image

Selling and shipping

Another of the attractive aspects of the mail-order part of the business is that redworms are easy to ship. To ship live worms, Tom and Lorraine begin by picking up some used woven plastic feed sacks. They can be had cheaply or even free if they’ve got a hole in them. Lorraine cuts them down and sews them into smaller bags that will accommodate about 3 pounds of damp peat moss and 2 pounds of lively redworms. The bagged wigglers are put into a USPS Priority Mail box and shipped to the customer. Tom insures each package. He believes that is the only way to do business and it ensures satisfied customers.
I asked about pricing, and Tom told me that they currently charge $42 dollars for two pounds of redworms. That equals about five thousand wigglers. They offer pricing discounts on larger quantities. All of their prices include priority shipping by USPS.
Tom mentioned that he is not out to make every dollar in the redworm business. He enjoys working with the worms, dealing with people, and working at his own pace. Tom and Lorraine have helped many people get started in the business. They love the fact that they get to work at home. Tom also said that the worms are quiet, and that makes for a peaceful place. The worm operation gives them the freedom to do other things.
Now that you are pumped up to get into the business, Tom and Lorraine can help you do that as well! Their website, www.redwormcountry.com, contains a wealth of information useful to anyone interested in getting into the worm raising business. They may also be reached at 334-886-3547 or by e-mailing them at [email protected].
Becoming a bait “runner”

As an alternative to doing the actual raising of the worms, you might consider becoming one of the “runners” Tom referred to. I contacted a bait dealer in my area of southwestern Indiana who does just that. He supplies bait of different types to vendors.
Kenny Renner has been in the business for more than 18 years. He owns and operates Renner’s Wholesale Bait and serves more than 70 businesses in about a 100-mile radius of his home in southwestern Indiana. During the busy season, he easily logs more than 225 miles per day.
He deals with a variety of live baits including crickets, redworms, beemoths, mealworms, Canadian nightcrawlers, minnows, and goldfish. His customers include bait shops, convenience stores, and anyone else needing fresh, lively bait to sell to their customers. He buys his worms and night crawlers in bulk and packages them himself in consumer-ready containers. Kenny uses the shallow Styrofoam or plastic deli containers described above. They easily hold a dozen nightcrawlers and cost from 5 to 6 cents per cup and lid.
With the volume that he sells, Kenny buys most of his worms live from “worm ranches” like Tom and Lorraine’s. He adds about 20% to his cost when he sells to the retailer. He has dealt with the same suppliers for many years but gets different baits from different suppliers.
The biggest problem in the business is keeping bait alive and delivering lively stock to the retail customers. An air-conditioned box helps keeps worms alive during delivery. The retailer is required to supply the needed equipment to store and display the bait for sale. That may include aerated tanks, refrigerators, cricket cages, etc.
Currently, prices for a couple of his baits run something like this:
Nightcrawlers wholesale for about $1.30/doz. The retailer then marks them up to about $2.10/doz. Wholesale redworms cost the retailer about $1.50/doz. They then mark them up to about $2.50/doz.

Tips to get started Tom offers some good advice for anyone wanting to get into the redworm raising business:
1. When ordering your initial stock, get some big ones as well as some breeding stock. That way you can begin cupping worms immediately and have some product to sell. That will help get a cash flow going.
2. Stay away from scams such as the "buy worms from us, raise them, and we will buy them all back" type plans.
3. Get about $100 or more of worms to start. That will give you an ample supply of worms for breeding and for selling immediately.
4. Remember that it doesn't take a lot of space. One blue plastic barrel sawn in two lengthwise sections can house about 5 pounds of worms in each half.
5. Use only peat moss for bedding. It is available at any chain home supply store or garden center.
6. Feed them manure, but be careful not to add "hot" manure such as fresh poultry manure.
7. Remember that food and moisture are the keys.



#2 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 12:02 PM

btw worms are also good high protein animal feed-
feed to any birds you raise, pigs, dogs, etc.
also useful for raising catfish in a barrel.

#3 SharkieJones

SharkieJones

    Moderator

  • OG VIP
  • 3,269 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 01:03 PM

Nice, are you raising worms on the farm?

#4 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 01:11 PM

almost ready to begin,
collecting rabbit poo atm .

#5 plantman21

plantman21

    Mycotopiate

  • Expired Member
  • 881 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 02:03 PM

I hate looking all over the yard for rabbit poo, they hide it like Easter eggs.:rasta:
Plantman

#6 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 02:28 PM

not wild / free-range rabbits- caged.
:lol:
my problem is that
the chickens keep eating up the poo.

#7 masterplain88

masterplain88

    Mycotopiate

  • Expired Member
  • 809 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 03:08 PM

farmer of all trades:eusa_thin

#8 shroom_seeker

shroom_seeker

    Still seeking...

  • Honorary Former Staff
  • 3,612 posts

Posted 09 July 2009 - 03:18 PM

Cool thread Hip i hope to farm redworms someday. Your Animal Farm forum is inspiring, looks like someone's gonna be ready for armageddon. :amazed:

#9 muddz

muddz

    Mycophiliac

  • Expired Member
  • 62 posts

Posted 11 July 2009 - 08:20 AM

i always shocked em out of the ground pretty easy and fast

#10 -=Zeus=-

-=Zeus=-

    -= In The Flow =-

  • OG VIP
  • 2,019 posts

Donator


Awards Bar:

Posted 11 July 2009 - 12:04 PM

Very cool thread Hippie! I have been thinking about starting a small bed for my own usage, and when I tilled my garden spot in the backyard it was full of fat worms. I think I'll gather up a few dozen and throw them together and see what happens.

#11 masterplain88

masterplain88

    Mycotopiate

  • Expired Member
  • 809 posts

Posted 11 July 2009 - 12:16 PM

might be a dumb question but what to do with the worms in the winter.

Edited by masterplain88, 11 July 2009 - 12:19 PM.
like northern states


#12 Golden Teacher

Golden Teacher

    Forever Grateful

  • Expired Member
  • 263 posts

Posted 11 July 2009 - 09:02 PM

might be a dumb question but what to do with the worms in the winter.


I live in Northern Arkansas. Would it get too cold during the winter months to keep a worm bed going outside?

Temps can often drop well below freezing.

Hipp, your up in Missouri, so what will you do with your worm beds during the cold winter months? It can get wickedly cold in MO.

This would be a cool project to have an eternal supply of worm castings to grow bulk shroom tubs.

Thanks for sharing,

GT

#13 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 11 July 2009 - 09:04 PM

it'll be in my barn

#14 Hippie3

Hippie3

    DUNG DEALER

  • Founders
  • 40,642 posts

Posted 11 July 2009 - 09:05 PM

btw
you can't just use ordinary garden-variety earthworms/nightcrawlers for this-
get the right kind.

#15 mrmyc

mrmyc

    Mycophiliac

  • Free Member
  • 74 posts

Posted 12 July 2009 - 04:53 PM

I started a continuous flow worm bin in a 32 gallon trash can a couple of months ago. I don't have a camera but you can check out this link to see how it's put together.

I put 3 pounds of bed run Eisenia Foetidas worms in the bin to start. These worms are considered to be excellent composting worms.

Some things I've learned...

Our bin is outside and it's been hotter than three shades of hell. I found that running a fan at the bottom door and putting a gallon sized ziplock bag of ice on the top keeps the temps under control. Having enough vent holes on top of the bin helps too.

Chop up your worm food into small pieces. It's also a good idea to either freeze fruits or veggies, or nuke em for a few so as to kill off the fruit fly eggs.

Remember that some stuff takes longer to decay into worm food. They're not eating the trash itself but eating the bacterias and such that are breaking it down.

They like some foods better than others. I hold by the rule of everything in moderation. There are list galore stating what you can and can't feed and for everything on the don't side there's folks doing it with great success. See what works best for your bin.

Keep a spray bottle of h20 handy to mist the top of the bin. They like it good and damp but not too wet.

Best advice I can pass on is don't overfeed. Also, don't fuck around with your bin once you get it set up. Don't dig around to check on your worms. Adding the extra air into the mix by stirring seems to heat things up considerable.

Biggest bonus for us is that we've eliminated 2 to 3 trips a week to the trash bin. Gotta love that.

Hey, Hip, I do remember reading somewhere that when you feed rabbit droppings that you need to be careful of urine soaked pellets. Something to do with the acidity levels.


#16 dimebonic333

dimebonic333

    Mycophiliac

  • Expired Member
  • 16 posts

Posted 21 October 2009 - 06:56 AM

It is absolutely fantastic that there is a thread about this, I cannot find decent info on farming redworms. In fact, its the reason why I left the shroomery and joined today.

#17 Beast

Beast

    That's Mr. Beast to you..

  • Expired Member
  • 3,930 posts

Posted 07 November 2009 - 05:22 PM

I love my worm bin, I've had it for 5 years now, and have produced an insane amount of worm castings from it. Its a better design than the basic single bin described above, as the worms automatically separate themselves from the pure castings in the lower bin and move into the 'fresh' food in the upper bin once its all consumed from the lower one. Also the bottom bin functions as collector for casting tea which is great for feeding plants as well as the hydration for pf cakes.

http://mycotopia.net...cheap-easy.html

#18 dimebonic333

dimebonic333

    Mycophiliac

  • Expired Member
  • 16 posts

Posted 07 November 2009 - 05:49 PM

why cant you use garden type? i live in texas and the soil is top notch here. plenty of red and brownish/grey worms under my compost pits.

#19 Beast

Beast

    That's Mr. Beast to you..

  • Expired Member
  • 3,930 posts

Posted 07 November 2009 - 06:09 PM

why cant you use garden type? i live in texas and the soil is top notch here. plenty of red and brownish/grey worms under my compost pits.


Technically, red worms, are 'garden type'. However the night crawlers and other earthworms not included in the 'red worm' category tend to dig a single burrow that they live in, coming out at night to forage. These worms don't like to live in the same soil as the red worms, which are known as composting worms due to their tendency to churn the soil. The night crawlers get pissed that their burrow gets destroyed and they go look for somewhere else to live.

Thus, the red worms are ideal for this job, especially if you're going to specialize in a worm bin. Best bet is to buy a .5lb package of them from a garden store, or online from someplace like www.tiptopbio.com.




Like Mycotopia? Become a member today!