44 replies to this topic

[Burger]

This is a grafting technique I have been playing around with known as wegde grafting (I have also seen similar grafts performed by members here using the term 'impale' grafting).

What ever you like to call it, the methods are very similar, simple to perform and yield great results.

It is used to graft slightly more advanced/established cacti seedlings, in this case approx. 1 year old.

The seedlings being grafted in this example are three varieties of Trichocereus (Pachanoi hybrids, Peruviana Icaro and Pasacana) and the stocks are Perekiopsis.

The tek can be used on small pups/off shoots, and is also excellent for Lophophora ;)

When grafting very young seedlings using the standard 'flat-cut' method, there can, and usually is some degree of loss, due the fussy nature of seedlings at that age.

However using this tek I have had 100% success, and there is no need for humidity chambers, heatmats etc.

A Pereskiopsis is basically cut approx. half way up the stem and then cut into a point or 'wedge' using a razor blade.

It is best to remove any areoles from the top of the Peres that will be inside the seedling, to prevent new shoots growing out through the seedling and possibly pushing it off.

A seedling is then cut with a flat cut and a small section from the base is removed using a sharp fine pointed blade or scapel.

The cut to the base of the seedling doesn't have to be too neat or the exact shape as the Peres, just a conical shaped hole approx 5mm deep.

I like to use the fatter, upper section of the seedling, it makes mounting easier and gives a larger starting point when graft starts growing.

The seedling is then simply pushed firmly down onto the Peres so it actually penetrates slightly.

Once in place, the seedlings are held down using electrical tape with a small piece of paper towell or tissue over the top of the seedling to prevent the tape sticking.

I leave the grafts in low light conditions for a week, then remove the tape and place back into normal growing conditions.

The last pics were taken one month after the grafts were originally done. The growth increase is obvious.

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[Dr.Hallucination]

Very nice write up and photographs Burger.:eusa_clap

[HUMBLE STUDENT]

Those are some nice cactus! I bet you had a hell of a time getting them outta that bowl lol. nice grafts also

[Burger]

Very nice write up and photographs Burger.:eusa_clap

Thanks Doc, I hope it helps someone out there :pirate:

Those are some nice cactus! I bet you had a hell of a time getting them outta that bowl lol. nice grafts also

The Cacti I used for the grafts were actually easy to remove as they were cut off at the base, and the roots left in the container. ;)

They do come out quite easily though, being in sand. I scoop out a few at a time using a small spoon and carefully separate the roots.

awesome burger :bow::bow:

ive been playing around with this impale/wedge method myself an found that one of those cheap plastic pencil sharpeners work well for makeing the Pereskiopsis pointed ,

just stick the Pereskiopsis in the pencil sharpener an turn it a few times , lol

Good idea using the pencil sharpener jay :lol: I wouldn't have thought of that.

For my next project I'm am going to attempt using multiple Pereskiopsis stocks on a single Lophophora button to see what happens :cacti:

[teesus]

beautiful grafts! i tryed my first wedge graft on pereskiopsis two weeks ago but i didn't taped it down. i'm not shure if it took yet. have you ever tryed this methode without using tape?

[eastwood]

Great work.Looking forward to seeing some updates.

[Burger]

beautiful grafts! i tryed my first wedge graft on pereskiopsis two weeks ago but i didn't taped it down. i'm not shure if it took yet. have you ever tryed this methode without using tape?

Hey teesus.

I haven't tried without the tape, though it would likely still work if pushed on firmly enough.

I use the tape to make sure of a bond, it's a simple step to gaurantee success.

[Burger]

These grafts have exploded with growth.

The growth of the hybrids has been unbelievable.

While the growth of the Peruvianus and Pasacana, while not as impressive, has still been very good.

I will get some better pics tomorrow when the lights are off...

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[prism]

You are doing exactly what I have been TRYING to do. Thanks for the nice pics!! I love the pots too. Awesome for Pere's.

Nice job as always Burger.

I have been doing the impale graft too and mine have tended to root while on the perry. I don't see roots on yours lol... I will be using your method now.

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[rocketman]

archive material cactus grafting teks when thread runs its course.

Burger you say cut half way down on the pereskiopsis. Maybe you should add how many inches to leave, as halfway on a one inch pereskiopsis isnt wise nor is a 2 footer cut in half to graft.

What do you think the minimum and optimum size of the pereskiopsis should be as well as the minimum age of the cacti. You say more established yearlings, but could this work with younger seedlings possibly?

Edited by rocketman, 19 October 2009 - 01:47 PM.

[Burger]

Burger you say cut half way down on the pereskiopsis. Maybe you should add how many inches to leave, as halfway on a one inch pereskiopsis isnt wise nor is a 2 footer cut in half to graft.

What do you think the minimum and optimum size of the pereskiopsis should be as well as the minimum age of the cacti. You say more established yearlings, but could this work with younger seedlings possibly?

The Peres I used, ranged from approx. 8-12 inches tall on average, before being cut, and is what I would consider 'optimum'. Though I have used slightly taller stocks and cut them just as short, and they worked fine, but could possibly shorten the life span of the graft.

Regular grafting of young seedlings onto Peres seem to prefer the upper new-growth section of the stem, however when wedge grafting, I use the more chunkier part of the stem, it makes it easier to push the scion on and tape it, without the Peres bending or breaking.

I have found it best cut the Peres down to approx. 4 inches in height (give or take a little either way). It supports the scion well, without becoming too top heavy too early, especially when grafting columnar cacti.

Although wedge grafting is best suited to larger seedlings and offsets, it should work on slightly smaller seedlings, where the size still allows for them to be pushed onto the stock without much damage.

I have successfully wedge grafted a few small Loph offsets and simply sharpened the Peres into a finer point to accomodate the size.

As promised, a few more pics....

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[rocketman]

:cacti: :thumbup:

muchos gracias!

edited to ask: Do you find removing the leaves from the pereskiopsis helpful in directing more energy to the scion as opposed to the leaves?

[Burger]

:cacti: :thumbup:

muchos gracias!

edited to ask: Do you find removing the leaves from the pereskiopsis helpful in directing more energy to the scion as opposed to the leaves?

I would have to say no.

Because it is the Pereskiopsis that is supporting the scion, I like to leave as many leaves on as possible.

More Peres leaves would catch more light and likely transfer more 'energy' to the scion imo.

The exception being, I sometimes remove the very top set of Peres leaves if they are too close to the scion, and carefully trim back the areoles from that leaf set. It prevents, or slows the Peres from growing unwanted new shoots.

I will also mention that I use store-bought gereral purpose premium potting soil, no need for fancy cacti mixes when growing Pereskiopsis.

I love the pots too. Awesome for Pere's.

The pots are 50mm square X 120mm deep and are called 'tubes'. The beauty of using tubes, is they are cheap and you can fit alot into a small area, yet their depth still provides ample water retention and root space. A good pot for maximising growroom efficiency.

[Burger]

If you don't mind may I ask you what you are useing for lighting? what spectra the floros are.

I ask because i'm starting some lophs and bridgessi, yours seem to be doing amaziing.

My lighting setup consists of a combination of a 50/50 mix of 4' cool white and Gro-lux fluorescent tubes, spaced 4 or 5 inches apart.

They run on an 18/6 schedule (18 hour on/6 hours off) per day, and are are positioned as close to the top of the plants as possible without touching them.

Though when growing from seeds, I would recommend positioning the lights approx. 6 - 8 inches above the seedlings to avoid burn.

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[prism]

Man that setup is great!! I need that to veg my Cannabis under. Hee hee!!

[Burger]

These cacti have all been degrafted except the Pasacana, and will soon be potted up.

The Peruvianus ended up nice and chunky in the short time they were grafted, and I'm looking forward to growing them out, as the genetics are supposedly great. ;)

A few more pics of the final product.

Happy growing people, and I'll see ya'll on the next round :pirate:

Burger...

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