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#41 waylitjim

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 06:10 PM

That's cool....

Since you can use 100% coco coir as a substrate....
Does that mean one could theoretically spawn a colonized grain jar
to to a tub of un-pasturized coir?

I guess there's only one way to find out ;)

#42 sandman

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 07:30 PM

sounds like the "ultra lazy super dont want to mess with shit but still get lots of mushrooms" tek to me jimmy. Ill try if you try. You got a cam?

#43 destroy_erase_improve

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 07:41 PM

are there any threads of people using 100% coir for substrate. if so what is the colonization speed on it?

#44 vrooota

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 08:17 PM

I've used straight coir as a sub, colo speeds and pinsets were so so; a dab of castings makes it much better
Also make sure any coir you leave laying around is completely dry, as I've had damp stuff in a container go green before

#45 reefer

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 09:10 PM

"i think maybe folks should just stop
pasturizing their coir casings."

I agree. foaf stopped pasturizing and just started using it off the brick and didn't get any contam problems.

"are there any threads of people using 100% coir for substrate. if so what is the colonization speed on it?"

Well, I don't have pics but foaf usually spawns coir casings with brf cakes using 3 - 1/2 cakes and 1 pint of coir. (already moist and expanded) Spawn was mixed with the coir very well and compacted down. Allowed colonization for 4 days before adding casing layer (verm/coir) and exposing to fruiting conditions. Nice pinsets followed 10 days later. Worked great, each of those casings produced about 18g-21g dry from the first flush and kept going for 3 or 4 good flushes. (dunks in between)

EDIT: Also, foaf ran out of verm once and did the Double End Case tek with coir on some BRF cakes and got great results.

#46 waylitjim

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 09:10 PM

I've tried a few different types of coco,
and the nicest I've come across is Atami Bcuzz Coco.
It's available at hydroponic shops worldwide.
The quatlity is top notch, and it's not compressed like most coco.
http://www.atami.com/

"From the beaches of Sri Lanka and other tropical islands, Atami produces coco peat.
Coconut shells are cut and cleaned, then steamed and buffered. Coco substrate is light and stable.
Atami coco substrates are internationally certified by RHP. Available in 50L bags"

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#47 reefer

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Posted 09 May 2005 - 03:45 PM

Another note on coir-
Its commonly used as substrate in amphibian terrariums because of its moisture holding ability. Its kept very moist and comes in contact with lots of froggy fecal matter and still doesn't start to grow mold very easily.

#48 Guest_bluez_*

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Posted 15 October 2005 - 02:10 PM

Hi all-

I have used coir for the first time to case and I am a bit worried about the moisture that I have in my casing right now. I cased the crumbled cakes about a week ago and the growth is popping up on the suface at about 50-60% coverage.

Now, the coir is much drier looking than when I cased it....this is evident by the color. It is not as dark now. When I take a pinch off of the top where it is not colonized it does not feel wet....but when I put it on my lips, I can feel that it is damp. This is the way I automatically went to do it as my lips are more sensitive than my hands. How moist should they be right now? I have the casings in a growhouse with the humidity at 90-98%.

I am bugging out since I think I should have misted these casing earlier in the process, but now since the mycelium is popping up on the suface, I stand the chance of doing damage to them if I spray.....this is my logic anyway.

What is my play here?

#49 I_am_me

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Posted 15 October 2005 - 05:11 PM

I think they'll fruit regardless but if pins aren't present you can still spray it down. Usually the tops of casing layers seem to dry out a little which is better than being too wet. I would probably just leave it and keep fanning, maybe spray if it looked really dry and seemed to stall...

Also I'd recommend keeping your lips off the casing. Mouth's are pretty dirty as far as bacteria is concerned, although we do all reallllly love our mycellium. :D

#50 Guest_bluez_*

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Posted 15 October 2005 - 07:30 PM

I am not doing any fanning actually. These casings are in a greenhouse/growhouse with a humidifier running. I am running it for 30 min every 3 hours.

I think this may too much right now. Who would have known...a digital timer with 30 minute minimums. I think I may need another. Guage says 98% on a polytherm after 30 min cycle, down to 95% right before it kicks in. If I am correct, I should get this at 90% after primordia start, right?

btw, I didn't put my mouth _on_ the casing......I pinched a bit of loose coir from the top of the casing and tested _it_.

#51 I_am_me

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Posted 15 October 2005 - 08:43 PM

Around 95% the whole time will work just fine really. Its hard to monitor, much less control the humidity down to a few percent.

#52 sandman

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Posted 16 October 2005 - 01:31 AM

shouldnt you mist it if its not pinning and dry? I would think so, I know how fast coir can dry the hell up.

#53 Guest_bluez_*

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Posted 16 October 2005 - 07:43 AM

Thats what I am saying. I guess my fear was to stunt the pinning of the casing by spraying it because there is mycelium growth popping out on over 50% of the top of the casing.

If I can just get over that stunt....even if there will be a stunt of growth, I think making it more moist will be adventageous in the long run. Am I on the right page? I done screwed up already, by not keeping them up on max moisture....coir _does_ indeed dry out fast

Btw, is there any quantitative way to tell me how moist these should be right now?

#54 Hippie3

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Posted 16 October 2005 - 09:46 AM

you'd need to weigh it to get a quantitative way to judge water content.
i'd just dribble/inject water gently as/where needed instead of misting

#55 sandman

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Posted 16 October 2005 - 10:40 AM

hip, is it bad to spray a casing of 50/50+ as it dries out before pinning? You guys can get your casings to pin without ever misting? My casings seem to dry out every other day it seems and I have been misting them. There is no mycelium poking through the casing at all, seems to really not even be colonizing the casing.

#56 Hippie3

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Posted 17 October 2005 - 07:50 AM

you should not have to mist a casing near pinset,
you should have already gotten moisture levels in
the casing up before.
if your casing is drying out too fast,
you may need a thicker layer, or higher humidity, etc.
but you can/should mist before pinset, as needed.
see
http://www.mycotopia...html?1022292767

#57 Shroomhog

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Posted 29 November 2005 - 11:00 AM

I was looking on ebay and saw coir (Coco tek natural coir) is this the right type and is $79 for 36 bricks a good deal.

#58 Shroomhog

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Posted 29 November 2005 - 11:09 AM

Another question. They have coir mats on there too and I was wondering if you could cut these to size and pasturize them, then just place them over your substrate.

#59 MurCurY

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Posted 29 November 2005 - 06:01 PM


It's best use imo, is as a filler material in a balanced compost mix. Mycelium can easily colonize it, and coir holds a ton of moisture. However, its cost makes that use prohibitive.


i have a local place that will sell it to me for $.50 a brick....and will cut me a deal at 50 bricks to $.30 a brick.

#60 Mosach

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Posted 07 January 2006 - 03:14 PM

I've been using coir in my casings since day one, now that winter is here I can't find any locally. I don't want to order any through the mail, so I was wondering what a good alternative for coir is. The brand I was using was grow brix, its coir and some vegetable matter compressed into a brick.

Thanks!




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