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BHO-Butane Honey Oil


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#1 psilocypher

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 04:25 PM

I was wondering if other people experience the same effect from the smoke that i get...

When i take a small hit, i get an expansive feeling in my lungs (fairly normal i suppose) and a mild sharp pain sometimes in the lower throat and chest cavity...

I use very clean (near zero impurities) butane and a honey bee extractor.

I Purge it thoughly...

Anyone else experience this?

I don't get this sharp pain from smoking bud though...so im thinking some sorta chemical perhaps...

Peace

#2 hyphaenation

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 04:35 PM

http://wiki.answers....t_is_butane_gas

Q: What is Butane

A:


Butane is a gaseous component of natural gas, much like gasoline is a component of crude oil. While petroleum products like gasoline are refined, natural gas products like butane are extracted. Butane can also be produced from crude oil, but in much smaller quantities. Butane is often added to regular gasoline to boost performance without creating a highly volatile product. Other common uses for butane include refrigeration, heating and fuel for cigarette lighters.
But first, a quick chemistry lesson may be helpful. Butane's chemical formula is C4H10, which means the butane molecule consists of four carbon atoms surrounded by ten hydrogen atoms to form a straight line. Imagine a four-segment carbon caterpillar with ten hydrogen legs to get a visual idea of a butane chain. This form of the colorless gas is technically called n-butane (the n stands for 'normal'). N-butane has a relative called isobutane, which is used primarily as a replacement for the refrigerant freon in refrigerator systems.
Butane is one of dozens of gases derived from raw natural gas. It is often combined with propane to form a new product called LPG, or Liquid Propane Gas. This is the bottled gas sold for use in camping stoves and outdoor gas-powered grills. Propane may deliver more energy than butane, but butane has a certain property that makes it ideal for containment. When butane is compressed, it becomes a liquid very quickly. Once it is released into the air, however, it reacts with an ignition source to become a highly flammable gas. Unlike some other natural gas derivatives, butane only releases carbon dioxide as a waste product, not carbon monoxide.
If you take a close look at a transparent cigarette lighter, you should see evidence of butane in its liquid state. Once the holder depresses a valve, the liquid butane loses its pressure and becomes gaseous again. The flame is similar to a burning candle, because butane is considered a 'paraffin' gas. The liquid form of butane remaining in the lighter is slowly expelled, much like the candle wick only draws enough liquid wax to maintain the flame.





http://encyclopedia....dia.asp?GasID=8


Gas Properties
Molecular Weight

  • Molecular weight : 58.123 g/mol

Solid phase

  • Latent heat of fusion (1,013 bar, at triple point) : 80.165 kJ/kg

Liquid phase

  • Liquid density (1.013 bar at boiling point) : 601.4 kg/m3
  • Liquid/gas equivalent (1.013 bar and 15 °C (59 °F)) : 239 vol/vol
  • Boiling point (1.013 bar) : -0.5 °C
  • Latent heat of vaporization (1.013 bar at boiling point) : 385.6 kJ/kg

Critical point

  • Critical temperature : 152 °C
  • Critical pressure : 37.96 bar

Gaseous phase

  • Gas density (1.013 bar at boiling point) : 2.7 kg/m3
  • Gas density (1.013 bar and 15 °C (59 °F)) : 2.52 kg/m3
  • Compressibility Factor (Z) (1.013 bar and 15 °C (59 °F)) : 0.9625
  • Specific gravity (air = 1) (1.013 bar and 21 °C (70 °F)) : 2.076
  • Specific volume (1.013 bar and 21 °C (70 °F)) : 0.4 m3/kg
  • Heat capacity at constant pressure (Cp) (1.013 bar and 25 °C (77 °F)) : 0.096 kJ/(mol.K)
  • Heat capacity at constant volume (Cv) (1.013 bar and 15.6 °C (60 °F)) : 0.088 kJ/(mol.K)
  • Viscosity (1.013 bar and 0 °C (32 °F)) : 0.0000682 Poise
  • Thermal conductivity (1.013 bar and 0 °C (32 °F)) : 13.6 mW/(m.K)

Miscellaneous

  • Solubility in water (1.013 bar and 20 °C (68 °F)) : 0.0325 vol/vol
-----------------

That last part there mentions butanes solubility in water. As we know the Cannabinoids we want are not water soluble. Therefore if you water wash your oil it not only removes non-psychoactives like chlorophyll , tar and particulate , but it also will remove most traces of the solvent.

I always water wash my oil and remove the wax.


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#3 psilocypher

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 04:42 PM

WOW thanks for the reply, very informative there...:bow:...

And how would i go about water washing the oil?

Again, thanks for such a detailed reply :bow::bow:

#4 hyphaenation

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 05:33 PM

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Firstly make oil in your preferred solvent. Don't endanger yourself or others in the process. When that's done , do the following.

- Take a large jar and add near boiling water (make sure jar is hot first)
- Add oil vial spoon or blade , put lid on partially loosely.
- Wear thick gloves when handling hot jars
- Over the sink LIGHTLY shake the jar and depressurize the lid by loosening (you will hear the rush of air) , repeat
- Close lid tightly
- Start shaking up and down violently , take a break for a second , shake more
- Place jar in a warm water bath , then cooler , then cold
- When water is cold inside jar remove oil puck layer from surface or repeat with hot water again. Pour water inside jar through coffee filter and discard.
- Place oil in stainless steel bowl and chase water out with hair dryer on high.

Here's a few details:

Water level should be 2/3 up the jar. If its a biggish batch use a gallon jar. Glass jars that are wide at the top work best, so a pint would be great for small batches.

Observe that at first the oil sits on top of the water before you shake it. Once you depressurize and ans shake the oil temporarily "mixes" with the hot water , due to a combination of heat and the violent shaking.

As soon as you stop shaking the oil rises to the surface , because as we all know after and oil don't mix. The water becomes filthy with water solubles like chlorophyll and other non-psychoactive. Now its time for the progressively cooler batch waters to cool the water in the jar down. It would just break if you set it in cold water so you need to start by setting it in a bath of warm and then cool... to cold. This makes the oil completely harden to a puck on the surface. Its easy to get out because it gloms to itself.

Remove all the oil you can from the jar surface and pour the dirty water from the jar through a coffee filter to recover any oil in suspension. Scrape the coffee filter with a spoon to recover. Throw dirty water away.

Now you need to get the water out so that the next steps go good. Place the water washed oil in a stainless steel bowl and chase the extra water out with a hairdryer. This method works excellently. Keep rotating the bowl as you hairdry the leading edge of the melting oil , in front of that will be water droplets. Chase it around until there is no water of any kind.

Your ready to proceed with the dewaxing. My friends and I discovered this process many years pre-internet when making and washing oil. This should work with many solvents like ether etc , but I haven't tried with butane. For purposes of explanation i'll show how we did it.

Take a bottle of acetone and fill a jar 3/4. For this any jar mouth size will do , in fact smaller is better. Place oil in acetone , helps if you've made acetone warm first with a warm water bath. NEVER use a lighter to melt oil at this stage. When oil is in acetone stir it to let it fully dissolve. Place lid on and very lightly swirl jar to mix acetone and oil. Place jar in hot water bath ,run under hot water tap , then set in hottest water the tap will give. This will allow full mixing.

Now take that hot jar of acetone / oil and run it under warm water , then slightly cooler , eventually cold. Set it in cold water bath. This step works great in winter because you can just set it outside. If not put it in the freezer when its no longer hot.

Magic happens inside there. Cannabis oil is full of wax and it coagulates when extremely cold. It should look like its snowing inside the jar. That's wax.

After a few hours in the fridge the process should be complete. Now while its still very cold pour it through a large coffee filter , use a funnel and have a jar to catch underneath.

Depending on the strain of Cannabis there should be a whole bunch of wax in the coffee filter. At first its dark so when your done pouring , pour a little more clean acetone through the wax. Let that wax dry and you have yourself an useful product there to wax your snowboard or seal a boat.

Now the last step is two parted.

If you want to cash-out now and smoke your water washed , dewaxed oil just evaporate the acetone and hairdry fully in the stainless steel bowl.

If you want to go on to oil glory and remove the color so you can clearly see through the vial and also take out other impurities you can do a charcoal filtering.

To do this simply add some clean acetone to your jar of dewaxed oil/acetone. use tall , wide jar for this stage. The oil will freely mix with the acetone and you can use a spoon to help it.

Get some powdered activated charcoal used for cleansing in healthfood stores. Stir in 3 or 4 tablespoons of the charcoal powder to your acetone/oil jar. Stir it good and put lid on.

Let this sit overnight. By morning another miracle happens ... What was dark inside has been shed the light. Much of the colours and impurity have been pushed to the bottom of the jar. The charcoal sits on the bottom inches of the jar.

All you have to do is get a thin fishtank tubing and siphon the liquid out of the jar. To do that you very carefully snake the tubing down inside the jar and place it about an inch above the charcoal line , no lower or it will suck it up. Place the other end on the tubing in a jar lower than the first (google siphoning if lost) and carefully holding and watching the bottom of the tubing above the charcoal , get the siphoning going without getting any acetone in your mouth. You can do it.

When the liquid is siphoned into the other jar there will be that inch that you didn't suck up. Just add more acetone to the jar , stir and get a second pull in 12 hours when it settles.

Your almost in the land of honey !

Just take your last jars worth you collected and evaporate the solvent really , really well .... chase that mofo with the hairdryer until it sticks to the bowl and won't move at all (don't burn it though)

Here's a few pics of what it should look like.


Posted Image


Posted Image

Posted Image

http://mycotopia.net...html#post703134

Best of luck to you.

Edited by hyphaenation, 27 January 2010 - 05:48 PM.

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#5 Teonanacatl38

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 05:44 PM

Good stuff mang...shits potent as a mofo.....

:thumbup:Enjoy:thumbup:

#6 psilocypher

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 05:59 PM

Seriously the most clean, amber, pure looking oil i've ever seen...

When im doing big batches im gonna use the infomation you just passed on...:bow:...Thank you so much...:bow:

Im sure many others will find this invaluable too...

I love my oil :loveeyes::loveeyes: once you puff the oil, herb just ain't good enough anymore...:rasta:...usually.

Thanks..:headbang:..

#7 hyphaenation

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Posted 27 January 2010 - 06:00 PM

The wax is a very useful industrial product. If we we're like Paul Stamets we'd likely get a patent on it ...

Not that we invented the process , more rediscovered it through trial and error solving the red oil puzzle.

Many uses for that stuff once the solvent dries out of it. You'll notice it shrinks considerably when it melts and changes color & form. It will be / could be big in the cosmetic industry as well as it makes a great sealant.

#8 greenie

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 12:59 AM

hyphaenation: THAT IS THE MOST INCRDEIBLE honey oil i have ever seen in my life! thank you soo much for that tek. i will have to bust out a new tube and try this out. you have inspired me!!

#9 ShroomGuerilla

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:40 PM

That is a great write-up hyph.

I am definitly going to try the acetone-charcol trick with my
hexane-honey.

Thanks

#10 Freaky

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 06:44 AM

Archive material.

#11 Djaanteh

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 02:09 AM

Experience has shown not all brands of Butane are created equal.
All have some percentage of contents which is NOT Butane.

Needless to say, ingestion of vaporized oils which are unknown and potentially harmful is something to be avoided.

A simple method exists to determine the amount and most importantly the vapor pressure/temp of the "NOT Butane" components.

get a small clean clear water glass. Using one of the adaptors from the butane lid and pliers to hold it so you can trigger the flow of Butane into the glass. Flow about 20 ml into the glass.

As the liquid boils, keep the glass tilted so the liquid collects in corner of wall/bottom. as it gets close to gone tilt the glass so the remaining liquid moves towards the open mouth. manage the rate of evaporation and tilting so you end up with a stain along one side of the glass.

http://mycotopia.net...=1&d=1295938380

That stain is oily impurities from the Butane.
some of it is volatile at 35 to 40 ^C and the heat of your hand may cause it to disappear. Most will withstand heating the outside of the glass with a lighter or over a stove element. (NO Butane and open flames!!)
Some residue will NOT evaporate, no matter what.

Guess where that residue ends up??? Yep that's right. Use a can or two of Butane in your extraction, and you do the math. How much residue from 20 ml? How many ml total in your extraction?

How much of that stuff can you afford to inhale?

You owe it to yourself to find the lowest residue Butane you can. And to do tests to know that you aren't getting more than you bargained for

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