De-Mist-ifying A Cool Mist Flow
Posted 20 February 2006 - 09:23 PM
Normally, when one uses a cool mist in a home, the balls evaporate in the air or immediately after landing on the surrounding surfaces. That is because in a normal home the relative humidity is low (probably under 40% if someone is using a cool mister). In a mushroom tub, though, the relative humidity can be in excess of 90%, and those drops can linger and collect on the surfaces they land. This can be a problem leaving standing water on the mushroom chamber floor or, worse yet, on mycelium.
When cool mists were first recommended for tiny mushroom chambers, it was suggested that the output of the cool mist be run through a long garden hose to make sure the mist hits the hose's walls. This was a basic way of demisting the output, but it doesn't work perfectly (some mist makes it out) and it won't work for larger hoses very well at all.
A better way is to use a small amount of some material that will stop the mist but allow the humid air past with almost no back pressure (since cool mist units can't push air). This is a pretty hard material to find, but I found something that works very well, excelsior moss (many craft stores carry it):
This stuff is amazingly resistant to mist yet allows humid air through with very little back pressure. I have been using it in my 1" PVC tube in my own set up for some time now:
I use about the amount of a golf ball in the tube. I don't pack it tight, just tight enough to get the job done. By using this material, the output is not restricted too much and is mist-free. Because liquid water isn't thrown out, the water chamber last a long time. I don't have to fill the chamber but once every four days to a week even running 24/7.
Posted 20 February 2006 - 09:35 PM
I had a copy of one of PFs early DIY and he suggested pop bottles as de-misting resevoirs. Of course they fill up and have to be emptied etc.
Pain in the butt IMO.
Any problems with growing contams on the moss?
Posted 20 February 2006 - 09:46 PM
Posted 22 February 2006 - 03:05 AM
Posted 22 February 2006 - 05:07 PM
Posted 01 March 2006 - 10:36 PM
i do similar
except i use a small amount of loose polyfil
i figure a synthetic fiber is less risky
Posted 01 March 2006 - 11:40 PM
Posted 01 March 2006 - 11:47 PM
Posted 02 March 2006 - 01:31 AM
Also, I have tried polyfill very loose and the cool mist cannot blow through it well. Even at the most loose I could go, it cut flow a lot when it got wet for me. This stuff, on the other hand, gives almost no resistance to air flow.
Posted 02 March 2006 - 08:19 AM
a bit of a PITA.
yours is larger diameter but more airspace too.
got me thinking...
Posted 02 March 2006 - 06:00 PM
Then again, I haven't added any bleach or peroxide to the fill water either. Just tweaking for now..
Posted 02 March 2006 - 06:37 PM
leaves ungodly amounts of salt residues
Posted 03 March 2006 - 02:22 AM
At first, I thought maybe the air flow was so high that it was actually pushing moisture out, you know, air drying the whole works. But opening up a vent in the Cool Mist didn't help, and in fact dropped RH a coupla percentage points.
Given what has been posted above, do ya'll think I should somehow try to impede the flow of mist as above? Would that actually increase the RH? Or perhaps something else would help? Appreciate any and all input!
Posted 03 March 2006 - 02:31 AM
Posted 05 March 2006 - 11:48 AM
Posted 05 March 2006 - 03:53 PM
This is a great idea you have BH ...I have noticed blue spots forming on mushroom caps from the mist that contains h2o2 or bleach ..Wonder if u could rig the filter fibers so that excess water condensing on it ,just rolls back into the resevoir....
Posted 05 March 2006 - 04:10 PM
Because liquid water isn't thrown out, the water chamber last a long time. I don't have to fill the chamber but once every four days to a week even running 24/7.
the water does go back into the chamber i believe