Questions on casing... [merged]
Posted 19 February 2005 - 06:59 PM
Posted 19 February 2005 - 07:26 PM
try a casing layer of 50/50 verm/peat with a pinch of lime
or a 60/40 verm/coco casing layer
BTW You say its not doing so well, in what way?
Posted 19 February 2005 - 08:09 PM
Posted 19 February 2005 - 10:01 PM
Posted 19 February 2005 - 10:08 PM
Posted 19 February 2005 - 11:33 PM
Posted 19 February 2005 - 11:49 PM
Yeah, i'm a fan too. But it does overlay, which can screw you up trying to pick mature fruit and leaving unmature fruit nearby to finish.
Posted 20 February 2005 - 07:26 AM
use a 50/50 peat/verm blend instead
add lime to correct ph as peat is acidic
Posted 08 April 2005 - 03:33 PM
i've been viewing this site on and off for a couple of years, but am new to the boards. i hope this question isn't too dumb for you guys.
i've got about 7 casings (substrate = pf cakes, 1" thick layer, casing is 1/2" on top and bottom, straight fine verm) in three different terrariums. i was having trouble getting them to fruit for a few weeks, then bought a thermometer and realized it was too warm in there. i dropped the temp to 74-78 degrees farenheight and have fruits now.
the casings are doing ok, but are fruiting unevenly, and most of the shrooms are either abhorts or small. i'm not complaining exactly; they still get the job done, but this is nothing like some of the good flushes i've had in the past
i fan them out twice a day (w/ a hairdryer pointed out of hte terrarium, so it sucks the old air out), and I don't think CO2 is a problem but i'm not positive. does anyone know what the ideal CO2 levels are for growth, and maybe where to find an accurate CO2 meter? how much would such a thing cost? i don't want to fan more than i have to for fear of contams.
my other question is about the moisture levels. the whole setup is hooked to one ultrasonic humidifier by hoses. it's on a timer, 15 min intervals. there are valves on the hoses to adjust the amount of moisture going to each terrarium. the terrariums are differnt sizes, and two of them definitely had problems with being too wet up until a couple of weeks ago. i've been adjusting the valves and messing around with the frequency of misting (going between 4 times per day and 10), trying to get the water levels right, but i don't know exactly what i'm going for. i've read that 70% humidity is good for casings, but is it the ambiant humidity that really matters, or the amount of moisture in the casing itself? what are ideal conditions?
sorry this is so long. thanks for any help you can offer.
Posted 08 April 2005 - 04:00 PM
If they are big rubbermaid style bins you can cut holes in them, stuff with polyfill and just have a fan running in the room.
OR, you could use the old Fanning TEK more often:
1. Grab cardboard.
2. Raise arm.
3. Lower Arm.
Or, you could hook an aquarium air pump up to each of them.
Computer fans with coffee filters?
I like the idea of FOLLOW ME HERE:
Cone shape HEPA filter (find it at target by vacuums.
Mattress Air Pump (Get the 112V one with all the plastic nozzels (Target)
1" or 3/4" or 1/2" clear tubing (Lowes, Depot)
fittings (They are grey and made for the tubing, ACE, ACO, Depot (limited)
Hook all that shit up on a timer to flush out the air.
HEPA glued to --> Blower (tape up holes) --> Hose --> T Connector --> Hoses... fitting for inboun hose on bin --> Substrate level outlet with polyfil.
Inlet high, Outlet low.
Clean air on a cycle.
You may just want to fan more.
A Pre-filter of coffee filters would extend the life of the hepa.
Posted 09 April 2005 - 12:22 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 12:28 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 12:37 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 12:47 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 12:53 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 01:03 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 02:15 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 02:27 PM
The casing layer is not supposed to have nutrients in it, but still be able to retain water and air. Coir, castings, manure are all nutritive substances used in substrate, and aren't ideal ofr the casing layer. Peat moss and vermiculite are the two most popular substances for the casing layer. However, peatmoss is slightly acidic, as is mycellial waste, so adding enough hydrated lime to raise the pH to about 7.5 is also recommended. I have used coir and vermiculite in 50/50 ratio for casing layer, and everytime got infested with green mold and cobweb mold, and who knows what else. I'm making the move to peat,lime, and vermiculite or just peat and lime. Dirt seems like a readily available standby, as long as its not to nutrient rich?
You need to up the fanning then. I've use coir/vermiculite for years with no probs unless i've gotten lazy on the fanning. That's why I roll open air now!!! Your 100% right as far as not having a nutrient rich casing.
Posted 09 April 2005 - 02:31 PM
Posted 09 April 2005 - 02:35 PM