54 replies to this topic

[pop_bottle]

Ive got a vermiculite case that is not doing too well so I thought Id try a mix of peat-moss and compost (both bagged varieties from store). Any advise or wisdom you may share with me on this idea.....

Pop_bottle

[sinthetic]

planning on using the compost as a casing layer? watch out for overlay!

try a casing layer of 50/50 verm/peat with a pinch of lime
or a 60/40 verm/coco casing layer

BTW You say its not doing so well, in what way?

[pop_bottle]

What is Overlay?

[mockeylock]

Coir's a great casing material. It may get more colonized than peat moss, but still works great. I'd bet more people use it than peat moss these days...

[Lazlo]

[quote name='mockeylock']Coir's a great casing material. It may get more colonized than peat moss, but still works great.

Yeah, i'm a fan too. But it does overlay, which can screw you up trying to pick mature fruit and leaving unmature fruit nearby to finish.

[Hippie3]

compost isn't for casings
it's substrate
use a 50/50 peat/verm blend instead
add lime to correct ph as peat is acidic

[spindlewhorl]

hi,

i've been viewing this site on and off for a couple of years, but am new to the boards. i hope this question isn't too dumb for you guys.

i've got about 7 casings (substrate = pf cakes, 1" thick layer, casing is 1/2" on top and bottom, straight fine verm) in three different terrariums. i was having trouble getting them to fruit for a few weeks, then bought a thermometer and realized it was too warm in there. i dropped the temp to 74-78 degrees farenheight and have fruits now.

the casings are doing ok, but are fruiting unevenly, and most of the shrooms are either abhorts or small. i'm not complaining exactly; they still get the job done, but this is nothing like some of the good flushes i've had in the past

i fan them out twice a day (w/ a hairdryer pointed out of hte terrarium, so it sucks the old air out), and I don't think CO2 is a problem but i'm not positive. does anyone know what the ideal CO2 levels are for growth, and maybe where to find an accurate CO2 meter? how much would such a thing cost? i don't want to fan more than i have to for fear of contams.

my other question is about the moisture levels. the whole setup is hooked to one ultrasonic humidifier by hoses. it's on a timer, 15 min intervals. there are valves on the hoses to adjust the amount of moisture going to each terrarium. the terrariums are differnt sizes, and two of them definitely had problems with being too wet up until a couple of weeks ago. i've been adjusting the valves and messing around with the frequency of misting (going between 4 times per day and 10), trying to get the water levels right, but i don't know exactly what i'm going for. i've read that 70% humidity is good for casings, but is it the ambiant humidity that really matters, or the amount of moisture in the casing itself? what are ideal conditions?

sorry this is so long. thanks for any help you can offer.

-spindle

[smegma]

What kind of terrariums?

If they are big rubbermaid style bins you can cut holes in them, stuff with polyfill and just have a fan running in the room.

OR, you could use the old Fanning TEK more often:

1. Grab cardboard.
2. Raise arm.
3. Lower Arm.
4. Repeat.

Or, you could hook an aquarium air pump up to each of them.

Computer fans with coffee filters?

I like the idea of FOLLOW ME HERE:

Cone shape HEPA filter (find it at target by vacuums.
Mattress Air Pump (Get the 112V one with all the plastic nozzels (Target)
1" or 3/4" or 1/2" clear tubing (Lowes, Depot)
fittings (They are grey and made for the tubing, ACE, ACO, Depot (limited)

Hook all that shit up on a timer to flush out the air.

HEPA glued to --> Blower (tape up holes) --> Hose --> T Connector --> Hoses... fitting for inboun hose on bin --> Substrate level outlet with polyfil.

Inlet high, Outlet low.

Clean air on a cycle.

You may just want to fan more.

A Pre-filter of coffee filters would extend the life of the hepa.

[cheeseball]

What do most advocate? I was browsing the shroomery and saw some people do it with dirt, I want to mix some worm castings with my cakes then add a verm layer, if I nuke the castings for 2-3 minutes in the microwave, would it be ok? I need to get it done as these jars are fully colonized and just waiting so anyone please help.

[cutty]

Im really not sure bout your casting Q since I've never used them,But I wouldnt recommend dirt.Maybe try to get some Peat moss and use that with your verm its called a 50/50 (Peat/Verm) casing mix.You can pasturize or sterilize that 50/50 casing mix and end up with great fruiting results.

[Lazlo]

Works fine. I use Sunshine Mix 50/50 with vermiculite or coir 50/50 with vermiculite. This casing is just now starting pinning. The pins around the edge were there prior to casing. Next week is gonna be the biggin!

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[Lazlo]

As for your question, I wouldn't use worm castings in a casing unless they were introduced into the substrate.

[chefpjb1]

looper did you just make a casing out of a while tote? Or do you have a casing in a tray that takes up the bottom of that tote. I'm just asking because of the way your pic looks.

The Chef

[Lazlo]

looper did you just make a casing out of a whole tote?

yes

[Beast]

The casing layer is not supposed to have nutrients in it, but still be able to retain water and air. Coir, castings, manure are all nutritive substances used in substrate, and aren't ideal ofr the casing layer. Peat moss and vermiculite are the two most popular substances for the casing layer. However, peatmoss is slightly acidic, as is mycellial waste, so adding enough hydrated lime to raise the pH to about 7.5 is also recommended. I have used coir and vermiculite in 50/50 ratio for casing layer, and everytime got infested with green mold and cobweb mold, and who knows what else. I'm making the move to peat,lime, and vermiculite or just peat and lime. Dirt seems like a readily available standby, as long as its not to nutrient rich?

[Lazlo]

The casing layer is not supposed to have nutrients in it, but still be able to retain water and air. Coir, castings, manure are all nutritive substances used in substrate, and aren't ideal ofr the casing layer. Peat moss and vermiculite are the two most popular substances for the casing layer. However, peatmoss is slightly acidic, as is mycellial waste, so adding enough hydrated lime to raise the pH to about 7.5 is also recommended. I have used coir and vermiculite in 50/50 ratio for casing layer, and everytime got infested with green mold and cobweb mold, and who knows what else. I'm making the move to peat,lime, and vermiculite or just peat and lime. Dirt seems like a readily available standby, as long as its not to nutrient rich?

You need to up the fanning then. I've use coir/vermiculite for years with no probs unless i've gotten lazy on the fanning. That's why I roll open air now!!! Your 100% right as far as not having a nutrient rich casing.

[cheeseball]

My first casing (which is going right now) is 100% coir and it has about 52 little babies wanting to pop up, but i am praying the mean green doesn't take them away from me. I already had 3 cakes get the green goose, and they were in the same rubbermaid as my casing, i will keep this up to date to let all know about my casing turn out, thanks for the info everybody.

[Lazlo]

Coir is prone to overlay. It's rich in nutes and is a fine substrate material. BUT, as I mentioned I too use it for casing material. 100% coir for a casing will work, but the overlay can be a bitch. Just make sure your fanning 3-5 times a day to prevent molds from germinating and ruining your work. Molds love stagnent air.