
Questions on casing... [merged]
#21
Posted 09 April 2005 - 03:02 PM
Yes, you can pasteurize dirt and case with it... But don't do it.
Indoors it would make a lousy casing, even without all the Trich.
Listen to Looper about coir casings. I don't use coir in casings anymore.
IMHO, 100% Vermiculite is the best choice for a first casing. Just don't overwater... Some people overwater verm. casings because they say it's hard to judge the casing's moisture by looking at it.
#22
Posted 09 April 2005 - 03:06 PM
Agreed!
#23
Posted 09 April 2005 - 03:23 PM
Also, do you have any provisions for drainage?
I assume that you fan for air exchange, correct?
#24
Posted 09 April 2005 - 03:28 PM
Looper, what substrate is in the tote?
Also, do you have any provisions for drainage?
I assume that you fan for air exchange, correct?
Straw/poo/coir/coffee spawned with wbs. Cased with Sunshine Mix 50/50 with vermiculite. No drainage on these bins. I can pick them up and tell by the weight when to lay off the heavy misting. I fan once in the morning and leave the tops of them on crooked for proper air exchange.
#25
Posted 09 April 2005 - 03:57 PM
Casing will definitely increase your yields. So will cloning. Put the two together and look-out!!
I've never fanned my cakes, I just turn my chamber upside down or an aquarium on it's side and the co2 just flows out.
#26
Posted 10 April 2005 - 03:45 PM
thanks for the reply - so you think it's an airflow problem and not humidity... cool, that helps a lot.
the answer to 'what kind of terrariums' is: 2 biggish rubbermaid-style, one standing custom-built out of double-paned windows. it's 2' x 2' x 6'. the larger one seems to be doing better, and that would make sense if it's an air problem - it probably gets better circulation, since it's verticle, and has a vent on the bottom - easier for the CO2 to escape.
i'll have to think more about your hepa-on-a-timer setup. looks real good, but we've already invested in a hepa that's cleaning the whole room, and it's not really the right shape to hook hoses to. for now i'll try more fanning.
muchas gracias!
spindle
#27
Posted 10 April 2005 - 07:36 PM
Alos, CO2 is a red herring as I haven't found it to be a neccessary ingediant to growing shrooms. Best just to get rid of it so you won't need a CO2 meter.
#28
Posted 11 April 2005 - 02:57 PM
When do you expose them to light? Can the light just be for a couple of minutes a day? Like right after I case, can I put them in a box that receives light?
#29
Posted 11 April 2005 - 03:11 PM
#30
Posted 11 April 2005 - 03:21 PM
#31
Posted 11 April 2005 - 03:28 PM
1 dry Litre Verm
1 dry litre Peat Moss
1/3 cup hydated lime
Hydrated in a bucket with boiling water covered wirh blankets for an hour.
Squeez out 'half' the water and apply evenly. Mist it if it is dry-ish.
HE waited until his casing looked like:
http://mycotopia.net...tachmentid=2698
They are uncovered once cased, but environ is controlled, 70-80RH. 72F.
Only watered once to capacity because of RH in room.
#32
Posted 11 April 2005 - 03:31 PM
#33
Posted 16 April 2005 - 07:21 AM
more likely the problem is in the casing layer itself,
proly got saturated as you alluded
and lost some of the microstructure needed for a good flush.
after this flush
use a clean fork to loosen/ruffle up the old casing layer
to make it fluffy again.
#34
Posted 16 April 2005 - 10:35 AM
#35
Posted 10 October 2005 - 10:13 PM
but in this particular case
i'm just not as sure as you are that air's the culprit,
over-hydration is more likely, imo
#36
Posted 25 December 2005 - 11:36 PM
#37
Posted 26 December 2005 - 01:28 AM
#38
Posted 26 December 2005 - 10:59 AM
#39
Posted 26 December 2005 - 11:44 AM
#40
Posted 26 December 2005 - 12:05 PM
The casing layer will more than make up for the moisture that could have been gained through a dunk.
If anything, I think the dunk would have put you at risk for having too much moisture.
Just don't overwater the casing; you don't have any "loss in moisture" to make up for.