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To case or not to case? [merged]


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#21 altered_states

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Posted 22 May 2005 - 01:02 PM

I'd recommend covering that tray with foil to limit air/gas exchange during colonization. You'll get enough leakage around the foil to provide correct gas exchange. This lets the CO2 levels build up. Upon full colonization(within a week from the looks of it) remove the foil and allow the mycelium to be exposed to light for a full day. Don't mist the mycelium. After that first day of light exposure, case with your peat/verm mix. Immediately after casing, lay a sheet of wax paper over the casing layer. In a week or less, you should have pins everywhere.
RR


Removed the foil for photographic purposes only.

I believe that I'm going to do exactly as you recommend.

Never did the light exposure before casing.
Does this cause the mycelium to shift gears in preparation for fruiting?
This is actually something I've been thinking about for a while.
It seems to make perfect sense, sort of initiating twice.

2 Q's:

Open air or saran wrap for the day of light exposure before casing?

Should the wax paper be on the casing or above the casing?

I wouldn't think that it should touch the casing, just want to be completely clear on this before doing it.

Actually, 3 Q's:

Open air after applying wax paper?

Thanks for the tips,
AS

#22 Ali

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Posted 22 May 2005 - 01:22 PM

Removed the foil for photographic purposes only.

I believe that I'm going to do exactly as you recommend.

Never did the light exposure before casing.
Does this cause the mycelium to shift gears in preparation for fruiting?
This is actually something I've been thinking about for a while.
It seems to make perfect sense, sort of initiating twice.

2 Q's:

Open air or saran wrap for the day of light exposure before casing?

Should the wax paper be on the casing or above the casing?

I wouldn't think that it should touch the casing, just want to be completely clear on this before doing it.

Actually, 3 Q's:

Open air after applying wax paper?

Thanks for the tips,
AS


Open, cover with wax paper (plenty of light gets through), turn on a light and wait a day. You do not need to cover it with antything if the RH is high in the area. Saran will work, but droplets collect very fast and drip on your shit.

Billy waits for knots to case (he says "wait for a pin... A PIN, singular, pick it and case immediately), 4-5 usually under the wax paper after 100% colonization, it makes very nice pinsets. He wishes others would expiriment with this to validate his claim.

Billy would not let the waxpaper touch the casing. He keeps the casing stuff 1" below the edge of the tray so this will not happen.

#23 Ra_shroom

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 07:15 AM

I have six partial cakes that I have isolated right now. They were showing signs of a tan mold, and because I was having no luck getting any shrooms, I thought that I'd birth them, cut out the moldy areas, soak for two hours in 200:1 bleach water, then use the 2 liter bottle method to isolate them so as to make sure no contams spread.

They are now getting lots of white fuzz on them, and no more signs of contams.

Does anyone in the know think I'd be better off crumbling them up and casing them, or would that increase the odds of contams coming back. If I case, should the casing materials be pasteurized, and if so, how?

The partial ones right now have no verm on top, but they have 200:1 bleach water soaked perlite underneath them for humidification purposes.

I've been airing them out twice a day.

What should I change, do? Please help, I've been trying for almost two months to get some shrooms.

#24 Hippie3

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:11 AM

in general
the best path
is to disturb them
as little as possible,
crumbling will just add more delay.

#25 morthos

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 10:00 AM

If you suspect contams, crumbling would demand more resources be spent on reknitting the mass instead of fighting the contam.

I would recommend fruiting these invitro style in the jars you made them in; fanning & misting is just adding variables imo.

#26 Ra_shroom

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 04:06 PM

Do you think I should open up the bottles, carefully, and just sprinkle a little wet verm on the tops of those cakes? If so, should I sterilize it somehow?

What can I do, now and in the future to "make" cakes pin? I mean, what conditions can I create to facilitate pinning, other than just waiting them out. Been trying hard to locate this info here and in the archives, but not having any real luck, just miniscule tidbits.

By the way, I have some of a donation to me setting up shop in some quart jars of popcorn. Did a g2g and have 4 quarts and 4 pints going real nice now. Planned on doing another g2g with 2 of the pints and casing the rest.

Want to case 2 smaller sets, was thinking of putting 1/2" wet verm on bottom, nice layer of corn, then 1/4" or so of wet verm on top. Will that work okay? Is 50/50 a better choice? What about mixing in a little store-bought manure?

With some of the corn, wanted to try a smaller straw basket. Can straight corn work okay with that or should I try to add something else to the substrate to "encourage" lots of fruiting/growth. Right now I have verm, perlite, store-bought manure, and brf. Cannot locate any worm poo in my entire city. Could order some online though and get it in time, if you suggest.

One last question: As you can see, I used a variation of the bleach dunk, to what appears to be good results so far. Do you see any problems with me using that same 200:1 bleach mix for wetting my verm and/or perlite, or for misting? (I know it will kill spores). I'm thinking it might help to greatly cut down on possibility of contams in the future.

As you can see, I definitely need a tutor. My fiance is getting quite annoyed with my attempts, time putting into it, and not having a single shroom to show for it.

#27 I_am_me

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:00 PM

You don't want manure or any other nutrient rich material in your casing layer. Straigh verm will work fine and its nice and easy. When you case I would stick with a straight verm layer on the top, no layer on the bottom. Make sure not to over water your casings.

Also I wouldn't put bleach in my water that I wet the perlite/verm with. While the bleach will evaporate I have had some mutation problems with long term exposure to bleach fumes.

As far as making them pin, all you can do is wait really. If you're growing invitro just wait it out, if you're growing in a grow chamber just make sure the humidity is around 95-100% and that you fan around 3 times a day or more to keep them with fresh air.

#28 Hippie3

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Posted 29 May 2005 - 09:29 AM

you cannot 'make' them pin.
all you can do is give light
and maintain environmental conditions
and let nature move on its' own cycle.

#29 bassplar99

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 12:36 AM

When working with bulk straw, do you think it would be better to case or not to? I seem to have a more even pinset by not casing on straw. Have others experienced this?

#30 Hippie3

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 07:53 AM

i don't case straw, fewer contams too

#31 Guest_freakachino_*

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 08:56 AM

I've never cased straw as I've never had a need to do it. One nice thing about straw also is it picks cleanly.

#32 Guest_dial8_*

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Posted 14 March 2006 - 09:23 AM

I've done both many times and I can say without a doubt that uncased straw is the way to go. The pinset is not hindered at all and the time from spawning to fruit is a bit quicker.

Like freaky said, straight straw is soooooo clean.




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