This tek was written as a start to finish guide for the novice hobbyist. This tek aims to satisfy the BARE MINIMUM requirement for bulk style grows. This tek assumes you have done at least a few hours of research on mycology before attempting to understand and/or perform this tek. Many resources exist that you should be aware of, some will be cited later. This particular tek was performed in a part of the world that psilocybin mushroom cultivation is allowed by the law. I do not recommend you break any laws. If you happen to live in a less privileged country, please use the following information for entertainment purposes only.
I named this the 2010 Tek in honor of the year I finally got this mycology stuff right:thumbup: Thank you Mycotopia! Special thanks to Mycotopia and eatyualive and his dub tub tek: http://mycotopia.net...ingle-tubs.html and a very special thanks to *****ADMIN REMOVED -Non Sponsor ****; and thank you to Floppy Peter and his bulk substrate tek found here: http://mycotopia.net...strate-tek.html , it became the basis of how I prepare my bulk; and to the Shroomery for providing a WBS Tek created by SixTango found here: http://www.shroomery...paration-Method which is how I learned how to prepare my wild bird seed; and to all the mycologists out there, the brave people doing your part to open minds and enlighten our age. You have inspired me :thumbup:
TEK AT A GLANCE:
Spores = Hillbilly Strain (p.cubensis)
Spawn Type = ½ quart WBS
Substrate Mix = 3 inches deep, (70/30:coir/verm), field capacity (more on this later)
Terrarium Size/Type = 6 qt sterilite shoebox x2 ‘DUB TUB’ style
Sterile Tek = Sterilized WBS in PC at 15psi for 90 minutes,
Wipe down every piece of equipment you’re touching with alcohol swabs (jar lids, glove box, syringe needles, etc), Oust the workspace, Use a glove box, Flame syringe needle, then wipe with alcohol swab, immediately prior to inoculation in a glove box. Store above ground level when fruiting, like a shelf.
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BEGIN 2010 TEK
Table of Contents:
1. Preparing WBS in quart jars
2. Sterilizing WBS jars
3. Making your incubator
4. Making your glovebox
5. Inoculate your WBS
6. Preparing your bulk substrate mixture
7. Spawning to your bulk substrate
8. Initiate pinning
9. Harvest Time
1. Preparing WBS in quart jars
What is WBS? WBS stands for Wild Bird Seed. It’s cheap and nutritious for your mushies. Easy to find, too. Don’t buy the expensive brands, they will often contain additives that you don’t want on your bird seed. The bird seed you want contains Millet and Sunflower Seeds mostly. It’s about $8 per 20lb bag at most pet stores or super stores.
Soak your WBS for about 8-12 hours in some kind of container, like a big bowl. After the soak, strain in a colander and drain the excess water out in the tub. Rinse it thoroughly so it gets out all the “yellow looking water” and water runs thru it clear. Let it sit in that colander for another 8-12 hours, I usually place the colander in the big bowl and let it drain in that. This ensures that all the water is held within the seeds and not just sitting there in between the seeds. There should be NO DROPS OF WATER that drip when you shake the colander. IMPORTANT: Don’t let it set for longer than 12 hours soaking in the water , or longer than 12 hours drying in the colander. It will start ferment and/or grow… which can be killed during sterilization, but it smells awful and can contaminate.
Fill your jars with WBS 2/3rd full (this allows for room when you shake and/or grain to grain later). Tighten the lid band, not too tight, just so it is snug. Now your jars are ready to be sterilized.
***How I do my lids***
You want to have 2 holes drilled in opposite sides of your lids, a 5/16th drill bit does the trick nicely. I try and make sure there is no jaggy edges left to cut my fingers.
Fill in one hole with CLEAR RTV SEALANT and let it dry (IN MY PICTURE I USED BLUE – DO NOT USE BLUE, IT’S TOO HARD WHEN IT DRIES). The clear RTV sealant is more flexible and the syringe can be inserted into it without letting any contaminates in the jar.
This will be our inoculation point, it seals itself when we pull out our syringe. Leave the other hole the way it is for gas exchange. Cut a piece of Tyvek material large enough to cover the hole and leave about an inch on each side, this will be our filter to keep out contams.
Place the tyvek on the jar, then place the lid on upside down with the rubber grips upwards so it doesn’t create a vacuum, then secure the lid ring band an tighten.
In order from bottom to top it goes: tyvek->lid(upside down)->lid band
2. Sterilizing WBS jars
You don’t need an expensive pressure cooker, I found one at a thrift store. Mine is a weighted pressure cooker from the 70’s probably (lol), the weight sits on top of the respirator. As it builds pressure, the weight rocks and knocks when the pressure has been reached.
First, you must place something on the bottom of the cooker, to act as a heat buffer between the jars and the bottom of the cooker. I use extra jar lid bands. Then I fill the bottom of the cooker with about 2 inches of water, just enough to cover the lid bands.
I take 4 quart jars that are filled 2/3rd full with pre-soaked WBS and place them into the pressure cooker, setting them on top of the jar lid bands – this keeps the jars safe, we’re not cooking them, we are steam sterilizing them. I make sure that the lids are loosened to let in the steam we will create when sterilizing. I also make sure that extra water cannot drip into the jars from the top of the cooker lid, so I place a piece of tin foil over the jar lids. Once everything is ready, put the pressure cooker lid on.
When sterilizing, you wait for this pressure to build AND THEN you start counting down your time. We will sterilize for 90 minutes at 15 PSI.
I sometimes have to use a single buffet style range by “Gourmet Chef”, purchased for $10 USD. Sometimes discretion is needed.
This baby hooks up to a wall outlet and you’re ready to go. I put the temperature on high until the pressure cooker regulator starts to shake and knock and rock. Then I lower the temperature to MEDIUM setting and start counting down. 90 minutes later I remove the pressure cooker from the heating element, remove the weighted regulator, and let the whole thing sit in a corner and cool for one hour.
After all the pressure is stabilized inside I remove the jars, shake to break up any clumps of WBS, and store the jars somewhere dark and cool for at least 12 hours.
Once you’ve given it plenty of time to cool down, you’re ready to inoculate.
3. Making your Incubator
My incubator is simple. A 64 qt tub with a heat bomb inside to keep a steady 82 degrees F.
Build your heat bomb. Get your CLEAR RTV SEALANT. Go buy a 20-40 gallon fully submersible aquarium heater ($20). Go buy a 64 oz juice container (tall not fat). Drink the juice, save the bottle.
You want to fill the 64 oz bottle FULL of water. Now place CLEAR RTV SEALANT around the rim of the bottle. Carefully place the fully submersible aquarium heater into the 64 oz plastic container, until it makes contact with the sealant. You want to make sure that you prop this up when you let the RTV SEALANT dry, so the heater is in the middle of the water, and not touching the sides of the plastic. Once it dries, wrap the neck of the bottle tightly with duct tape for extra security, don’t want that water spilling out – could be a fire hazard.
After this dries, you have a heat bomb to heat your incubator. Go buy a 64qt(13 gallon) Rubbermaid tub with a lid. Plug in your heat bomb, and place into your Rubbermaid tub. Get a thermometer to check the temperature, it will take some trial and error to maintain temperature – I keep mine at 82 degrees F. I’d check it daily, especially if weather conditions fluctuate ambient room temperature in your grow area. You now have a fully functional incubator, cheap.
4. Making your glove box
This one is VERY simple. Some people go all out, and by all means go for it and waste your time. But this is a simple poor mans tek.
Buy a clear Sterilite container with a lid (64qt or larger). Cut two holes for arms. You’re finished.
I am super sterile with my glove box. It’s only purpose is to have a still air environment. You must clean it beforehand with alcohol, I personally use plenty of Oust surface and air (linen scent J). I also always do all my work in a bathroom that’s been sprayed with Oust before I work. The bathroom because it’s not carpeted – any hard floor room will work, smaller the better.
Place your jars, syringes, lighter/alcohol lamp, cotton swabs, etc. into your glove box. Place the lid on top. Rub an alcohol soaked cotton swab over your jar lids before opening any of them or inoculating.
It’s all about sterile technique.
5. Inoculating your WBS
There is a certain order in which to inoculate your jars. You must perform this carefully and without hesitation as you go from jar to jar. Think and act like a robot when doing each step.
1. Flame the syringe needle tip until it becomes red
2. Wipe down with alcohol soaked cotton swab
3. Insert into inoculation point and inject 1 or 2 CC of spore solution
4. Repeat for the next jar
You want to make sure not to stab yourself or touch the needle tip to anything other than the CLEAR RTV SEALANT inoculation point. Don’t worry if you overdo it just a little on your CC’s, just don’t squirt too much in there. Shake the jars after you noc em up to get the spores everywhere.
Or you can just grain to grain from a fully colonized jar. This is much faster once you get things going. Grain to grain is simply pouring colonized grain into uncolonized grain, from one jar to another. This is faster because you don’t have to wait for the spores to germinate, it’s already grown. Some people use a spoon to transfer grain, I just shake the jars and pour from one to the other. Do it in your glove box so it doesn’t get any airborne contams in the new jar to compete with the mycelium.
After about 2 weeks for the spores to germinate (if from multi-spore liquid syringe), and 3 more weeks to fully colonize the WBS (only 1 week once you get Grain to Grain going), this is what you end up with:
(Just a shitty cell phone pic, it’s not really pink – it’s actually very white.)
Now you’re ready to spawn. I only used half of this quart jar to spawn to the bulk substrate mixture… (70/30:coir/verm).
6. Preparing your bulk substrate mixture
Bulk sounds better doesn’t it? I find it’s even easier and more forgiving if you’re careful about being sterile in every step. I’ve personally never fruited from cakes successfully, for one reason or another. Everyone is different I guess.
My mixture is a simple 70/30, Coir/Verm mixture. No additives, just coco coir and vermiculite. 70 percent coco coir, 30 percent vermiculite. All measurements approximated, I didn’t measure these out I just used my best guess and felt the water content.
Coco coir is sold as reptile bedding, in 1 kilo bricks. These bricks need to have boiling hot water poured over them to expand the substrate. Boil 1.33 gallons of water, and pour directly on the brick – slowly as it breaks apart. Use a clean fork or something to help break apart the brick as you pour. That, also, is all that’s needed to kill any germs on it as well. The boiling water pasteurizes it (not sterilizes, pasteurizing happens at 170 degrees or waters boiling point).
There isn’t any need to sterilize coir in a pressure cooker (or verm for that matter) because it doesn’t hold the same bacteria as peat moss, coffee grinds, straw, or poo. The boiling water actually helps the brick expand and seperate
Water content. After adding the boiling water to the coir, I added my 30 percent vermiculite. The brick comes out to about 8 or 9 quarts, I usually throw in around 2 -3 quarts of vermiculite. This USUALLY levels out the water content just fine. But I always check it. Here’s how I gauge it:
1. SQUEEZE THE SHIT OUT OF A HANDFUL!!!
2. Did water piss out of it? Shouldn’t have, did you add only 1.33 gallons? Add 1 cup more vermiculite and/or leech some of the water out into the sink.
3. Did barely any water drip out of it but you can tell it’s still wet? THEN IT’S PERFECT
4. Think it needs a little more? Add more 1 cup (250ml) at a time until you find the correct water content.
The 1.33 gallons is about perfect, but depending on how much vermiculite you added or if you added straw or poo along with coir, the water content could need to be modified. As it stands, 1.33 gallons should be sufficient.
If you squeeze the hell out of a handful and get more than 2-3 small droplets of water, or it pisses a stream, it’s too much water. With this, sometimes less is more, trust me. As you go along in this hobby you can find your sweet spot for water, but stick to the 1.33 gallons the first time.
Mix this thoroughly and you’ll want to let it cool down before you try handling or spawning to any of it. You can store this in a container until you’re ready to spawn.
This is more of a variation of the REZ effect than it is a bulk substrate. This tek just uses smaller amounts to maximize efficiency and only two ingredients to the substrate mixture to keep things simple. Screw with additives only if you perfect this tek, until then do this word for word.
7. Spawning to your bulk substrate mixture
Layers, all about the layers. Like baking a cake!
Take your WBS spawn and shake the jars to loosen up all the grains. Pour down a layer of your substrate mix on the bottom of your 6qt shoebox container. The next layer is spawn. Then more substrate. Then the rest of the spawn. Then finally a top layer of substrate.
Should look like you’re making a sandwich, or a layered cake:
Solid line = substrate
Wavy line = spawn
Until it gets to be about 3 inches deep. You want it deep enough to carry through a few flushes.
After spawning to your bulk substrate, in your 6 qt shoebox, place the lid back on the box (the lid that came with the 6qt shoebox). The white lid that comes with these cheap-ass little boxes… pic related:
Now we want to place this finished tub into your incubator for 5 more days. Every day you must check your shoebox and remove the lid, wiping down excess water that has collected on it. By day 5 it should be about 85% colonized. This is when I start the pinning process
REMEMBER: Any depth will work, but for greater yield and more flushes I try and make sure the entire substrate level is about 3 inches – just under the holes I pre-drilled that are stuffed with polyfil material.
8. Initiate pinning
You may hear a bunch of stuff about when to initiate pinning, but this is how I do it. At 85% colonized, I remove the tub from my incubator, remove the lid that it came with, and place ANOTHER 6qt shoebox upside down on top of the tub.
That’s it, a self contained paradise for mushrooms. How did I build this? Easy, two 6 qt tubs, one on top of the other. Notice: the bottoms are spray painted a dark color to stop light from causing the bottoms to pin.
1. On the bottom tub there is SIX, 1 inch holes, 3 drilled on each side of the lower tub, at the level of the substrate. This is so Co2 can escape - and not build up (which can cause stunted or no growth, learned this the hard way).
2. On the top tub there is one hole for fresh air exchange. Drill just ONE, 1 inch hole in the very center of the top – this is for fresh air to come in and push the Co2 out the bottom holes.
3. Stuff all holes gently with POLYFIL material; don’t use a whole bunch, just as much as needed to fill the hole.
4. Now tape the edges where any excess air might be able to escape.
5. Snip the plastic edges of one side and fold back the plastic so you can attach an office clip to hold the top in place.
6. Use a strip of duct tape to form a hinge on the back end of the tub. This way you can remove the tape around the edges and just flip the lid back when harvesting, also it helps keep things in place.
With the side taped, the office clip on the front, duct tape acting as a hinge in the back, and one support strap of tape running from top to bottom, that shit aint going nowhere – and it keeps all the moisture IN and contamination OUT.
Make sure you keep the temperature between 69 degrees F and 79 degrees F when you want them to start pinning. Lower temperature, more air exchange, and light tells the mycelium to start making fruit bodies.
This acts like the terrarium now. It will catch any evaporating water, while adding plenty of air to tell the mycelium it’s time to start knotting up. Turn on a light for at least 4-8 hours a day to make the mycelium start knotting up (most people say 12 and sure that works too, overkill in my opinion). I usually just flip a light on when I wake, and off when the sun goes down. Timers work here if you want to use one. Light only tells it to pin, and which way to grow, it doesn’t help the grow cycle as much as you’d think, but it is crucial.
Day 3 I noticed tons of hyphal knots all over the top of my substrate. You can still see the coir amongst the white. This is perfect conditions for pin city. On day 5 you will see your first pin. And boy, are they bigguns…
This is a “set it and forget it” method. You simply place another container the same size over your tub and it becomes it’s own terrarium. Simple, yet elegant. Don’t open till ready
9. Harvest Time
You want to harvest right before the veil breaks and spores start pouring out from the gills. Pull the mushrooms from the base of their stem in a twisting motion. This will make sure you don’t damage the substrate too much. Truth be told, this Tek isn’t for plenty of flushes. It’s about getting the most for the least amount of effort and materials. That being said, I usually throw out the tubs and start over after one or two flushes. I’ve gotten as many as four… You can try for as many as you like, but two solid ones is probably the most you’ll get off this mixture.
Again, you hear a lot about how to dry your shrooms. Either eat them fresh RIGHT THEN THAT DAY, or you need to dry them out. I don’t have money for fancy equipment. I simply used a box fan and some cookie drying racks I bought from WallyWorld. It takes about a day or so to get them cracker dry, and it’s not using heat to damage the little guys magic, like a food dehydrator could do (unconfirmed, just my suspicion – could be my wallet talking).
Store them in containers, try and throw some sort of desiccant in there with them. Silica works fine if you don’t have DampRid (silica comes in those beef jerky packages, the little packet that says “DON’T EAT THIS” – like the one that comes in the box of new pairs of shoes). Just throw a silica packet in a coffee can or 6 qt tub with a lid, or whatever your preferred choice of container. I don’t like using Ziploc bags right away, the mushies always seem to rehydrate on me.
I personally like the capping method. You can grind up your shrooms into a fine powder and fill .5 gram capsules (size 00). This makes it looks more discrete, as you can store it in supplement bottles without anyone being the wiser. Grinding the shrooms to powder does two other things. It helps with nausea when ingesting them – your stomach does less work. Also, it guarantees consistent potency amongst all doses. Ever have a shroom and your friend have a shroom, but he got off more than you did? That’s why, some shrooms contain more active ingredient than others. Grinding them all into a powder and capping them equally distributes the magic.
Thanks for reading. Glad to hear your input on how I can improve. :teeth:
results: 10 boxes produced 140 grams (5 oz) dried first flush. will post more results as they appear.
Edited by Freaky, 04 September 2010 - 03:45 PM.
uploaded all photos to topia - Freaky removed non sponsor link