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Everclear 'Pedro extraction? [ethanol mescaline]


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#21 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 08:22 PM

Nope, no hurry. You didn't read my previous post on Non-Polar/Polar extractions. The non-polar (Naptha) wash is just a step before the Polar (Everclear) soak. It actually adds two days to the entire process. The result is supposed to be a more pure compound. I'm not sure it is worth it...but hey its more scientific I guess so that makes it funner.
:)

Doing an acid/base extraction of the cactus flesh can yield nearly pure mescaline crystals after a proper washing of the extract, which can be handy in calculating dosages and easing nausea...

#22 loochypooch

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 08:30 PM

I'd like to add that for the Naptha wash to be beneficial you should probably use a good amount of it. Like 1 part cactus powder per 2 parts Naptha. That way the Naptha can soak all of the bad stuff out before you drain it off. I don't think the bad stuff will evaporate with the Naptha.

#23 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 08:50 PM

I'd like to add that for the Naptha wash to be beneficial you should probably use a good amount of it. Like 1 part cactus powder per 2 parts Naptha. That way the Naptha can soak all of the bad stuff out before you drain it off. I don't think the bad stuff will evaporate with the Naptha.

Naphtha isn't even needed in a mescaline extraction..

#24 loochypooch

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 08:52 PM

Well it should remove the bad stuff shouldn't it? Making it as close to the A/B extraction as possible without needing all the chemicals and tools of an A/B?

#25 mycobri

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 09:08 PM

FOAF would not destroy his Bridgesii cactus. numerous slices were taken off trying to prevent rot, and to form callous. Each time, the green tissue that could be salvaged would be stored in the freezer. Eventually the cutting was lost. FOAF tried even dipping the cut end in bone meal as a last ditch hope. The remaining tissue was separated into outer flesh-dark green and inner flesh. they were dried in the oven overnight and broken up by hand when dry. everclear 151 was added and the jars repeatedly shaken for a few days.
the reason for the separate jars was to show the color difference (alkaloid content?) then both were strained and combined and the material was re-soaked for a second wash. once again they were shaken each day and then strained and the liquids combined. the liquid is very dark and i imagine pretty strong. evaporation will be done with a fan, a flat pan with screen over it and plenty of time. i do not think much material will remain. :smokin:

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#26 loochypooch

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 11:03 AM

Naphtha isn't even needed in a mescaline extraction..


Yea, adding two days doesn't seem like its really worth it. Especially if the "bad" stuff is not extracted by the Everclear anyways and gets discarded with the pulp.

SWIM tried two tests with Naptha and each resulted in the removal of almost exactly 10% of the dry weight. I suppose that if you happened to have a cactus that was particularly rough on the gut or if you were going for a large dose that this could be useful. Or do you disagree?

#27 Hippie3

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 11:13 AM

a kilo of pedro should surely yield more than one dose, synth.
if it's halfway decent at all.
most find ~ 40 g. dry pedro powder to = 1 dose.

#28 synth

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 01:21 PM

'twasn't the conclusion that was reached before in another
thread. would've been nice if someone would've said something
like that earlier if it's truth =]

[just giving you a hard time]

#29 akoutdoors

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 01:53 PM

What is wrong with ISO? The alchy evaporates before the water, if you place 1 bottle of ISO in a plate and evaporate it there is nothing left so it all evaporates with no left over nasites. The cost of a bottle of iso is $1 the euqivalent of using evervclear or bacardi costs about $ 7.50 for the same amount.
I am just a cheap bastard, but there will be no diffrence try it with weed do a quick wash with everclear then do a quick wash with ISO and there will be no diffrence in the end product yeild, taste and potency

#30 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 09:58 PM

'twasn't the conclusion that was reached before in another
thread. would've been nice if someone would've said something
like that earlier if it's truth =]

[just giving you a hard time]

I think Hip means dried, and you mean fresh.. A kilo dried from a top quality known source is about 14-17 grams per kilo, I believe..

#31 mycobri

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Posted 30 April 2006 - 09:30 AM

It's super easy and virtually foolproof.

Thanks Waylit.

btw 6" long and 3" wide cutting with core taken out (done by swim of course)

any thoughts?

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#32 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 30 April 2006 - 09:44 AM

nice!

the golden residue around the sides reminds me of good honeyhashoil :rasta:

enjoy it in good spirits :)

#33 Hippie3

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Posted 30 April 2006 - 11:12 AM

I think Hip means dried, and you mean fresh...


i did say dry, didn't i ?

most find ~ 40 g. dry pedro powder to = 1 dose.



#34 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 30 April 2006 - 03:16 PM

i did say dry, didn't i ?

yeah, that's why I quoted his text in my post, as it was directed at him... ;) Guess it should read "Hip means dry, and I think you mean fresh", to be accurate...

#35 Hippie3

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 07:43 PM

This alcohol tek basically produces freebase mescaline.



speaking of which-

by me!


i believe hard heads mostly exist where weak samples are being produced... not always... some people truly do fit the category... but more and more it seems everyone is a hard head requiring a full gram to get off... he suspects the product most commonly produced to be 65% the potency of pure crystal... or something like that...

potency increases with the density of the crystal matrix... mirror smooth clear needles are 100% pure or as close as one can ever get...

mescaline HCl has divergant solubilities in boiling/cold MEK.

eradicate sanchez this way:

rigourously dry your non-polar with anhydrous MgSO4
likewise dry a quantity of acetone.

add the tone to the NP/freebase solution

apply slow diffusion gas to the mixture.

crystals rain down.

glittering aggregates.

its a lorax/slow gas combo that makes it quick and easy.

filter the product through buchner funnel

wash with cold anhydrous tone

dry.

good enough to lick off the dish as is, but wait...

dump it in a beaker of boiling MEK... really get it boiling good.

(dont blow yourself up... mek is very flammable)

use an earlenmyer.

a real one.

once all the mesc dissolves, stopper it and shove it fast into the freezer...

or better yet...

let it slowly cool for a long time....

but low temp should be way below zero...

you will find rocks of mescaline HCl

they can be smoked just like meth.

melt it slowly, dont burn it... vaporize it... the meth bong makes it possible to take 100 mg at a rip...

two such rips and youre off...

check out the frosting patterns... same thing as meth but utterly different patterns!!!

very clean, no residue left in the pipe...

pleasing taste, not amphetamine like...

i only made about 50 mg of it right before I had to move far...

it did work.

i did melt and smoke the rocks.

i felt the beginnings of an onset.




edit: use a fresh clean glass pipe and a clean bong with clean water. do not allow methamphetamine smoking devices to be used with mescaline... the same equipment is used for both but the drugs are incompatable so contamination is to be avoided...
i did it with about 70 mg of mescaline and recovered 50. Yeilds with identical method applied to related phenethylamine returned 99% of feed. lower yeild with mescaline was due to sloppy, fast work on my part. The experiment was conducted during a forced eviction. I took the "loraxed" mescaline and crystalized (single solvent) from MEK. Its weakly soluble at boiling. Very weak. But it does dissolve. Takes big excess of MEK. 35 ml to dissolve 70 mg at boiling. 7000 feet altitude. Put it in freezer and recovered rocks of mescaline HCl. Hard dense white rocks.

yeild would be 99% + if done carefully and slowly...

the shit turns faintly orange when it melts.

like liquid meth HCl is yellow/clear

liquid mescaline HCl is orange/clear

(meth freebase is yellow... mescaline freebase is orange... i wonder what imparts the colors to them???)

it melts at 181 deg C...

takes more heat than meth... same MP as pseudoephedrine HCl.

i had the thought and had to know then and there eviction or no.

used microwave to heat it and chilled it fast in freezer.

when I did it before with meth, i used sand bath and slow heating and chilled it gradually by placing it on the porch in the sun late in the afternoon... i returned for it just before sunrise when temperature was around zero deg F. the resulting crystals were identical in appearance to the mescaline rocks only much larger... i had lots of the other stuff also... but point is, slow cooling gives better crystals... rocks... than fast cooling...

same as with all crystal growing things...

the orange tinted liquid mescaline HCl puddle was a sight to behold in my pipe... i blew a brand new one for the experiment... no trace of meth contaminated the mescaline... it really is orange... and it behaves identical to meth when you put the heat to it... it fogs just the same... but the patterns on the glass are like unmistakably mescaline and nothing else but... same patterns as I see floating in the air in neon colors while on the stuff at night...

its yummy...

nothing in the slightest bit like meth or ephedrine or pseudo...

earthy tasting and mellow... very smooth...
these results are labled preliminary for a reason... I don't have a full set of answers...

I have not made enough of this stuff in this manner to test the drug full force yet... I could distinctly feel 50 mg but it was not enough for a real trip.

dosing would tend to be around 200 mg min for a full experience...

dosing will be same as IV and onset time will be roughly similar in nature... for a 60 kg male, when 60 mg freebase makes it into the bloodstream, visual distortions will be observed... by the time double this amount is in the blood, a full blown experience will be in force. duration will be slightly shortened... estimating 6 to 8 hours.

where i'm at with it is in the stage of verifying the entire concept... learning to physically produce mescaline that will smoke... the high itself from smoking it hasn't yet been explored... I did feel activity, though.

smoking a drug does not alter its duration. it delivers it to the bloodstream faster and in greater initial concentrations than oral methods do. DMT is short duration drug, regardless of how one takes it. Likewise, the phenethylamines, mescaline included, tend to be very long duration drugs. when you take a drug orally, it seems to last longer because it slowly diffuses into the blood over a long period of time. especially if taken on full stomach. when you smoke or inject, you bypass stomach and it goes directly into the blood.

the baseline duration is the same. differences are based in how fast serum levels rise...



#36 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 08:52 PM

I was just talkin to me! last night about this.. Experiments are in order!! :)

#37 waj01

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Posted 29 May 2006 - 11:20 AM

Any one try a napha clean up of the resulting tar from the ROH extraction of dried cactus? It would be similar to the napha clean up on a sally extraction (which works well). Less trouble than a full A/B extraction and should get rid of the "green nasties" that were mentioned.

PS - I would think IPA is the way to go, 91-99% IPA is cheaper and easier to get than Everclear.

#38 loochypooch

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Posted 29 May 2006 - 11:34 AM

Any one try a napha clean up of the resulting tar from the ROH extraction of dried cactus? It would be similar to the napha clean up on a sally extraction (which works well). Less trouble than a full A/B extraction and should get rid of the "green nasties" that were mentioned.

PS - I would think IPA is the way to go, 91-99% IPA is cheaper and easier to get than Everclear.


Well, I've tried the Naptha pre-wash and found it to be a waist of time. There aren't really any "nasties" in my powder though. If you have a particularly sickening cactus then it would probably be good to try Naptha though. I found that the Naptha wash does work with Pedros and does not remove the good stuff. I doubt it would help if you do Naptha last because the substance is hardened.

#39 shimmy

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Posted 29 May 2006 - 02:05 PM

its the best spaghetti sauce ive eaten yet


http://mycotopia.net...=1&d=1148929495

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#40 Guest_pissybee_*

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Posted 29 May 2006 - 06:18 PM

Well, I've tried the Naptha pre-wash and found it to be a waist of time. There aren't really any "nasties" in my powder though. If you have a particularly sickening cactus then it would probably be good to try Naptha though. I found that the Naptha wash does work with Pedros and does not remove the good stuff. I doubt it would help if you do Naptha last because the substance is hardened.

Naphtha would absorb freebase mescaline, probably kind of poorly, but it would dissolve some of the freebase.. So washing/defatting mescaline cactus with naphtha is useless and perhaps harmful after the exraction.. Using Xylene would pull out more, but would also not be that useful for pulling out nasties. The reason people do acid/base extractions is because of the solubility of the forms of mescaline in each solvent and the insolubility of the nasties.. Alcohol extractions pull out a bunch more crap than an acid base extraction.. There just isn't an easy way to pull out the goodies alone, and even a supercritical fluid extraction which may be somewhat more effective, would probably need anhydrous conditions and further cleaning of the product afterwards..




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