the heatbomb incubator
Posted 20 October 2005 - 07:13 AM
introducing the heatbomb:
the heatbomb itself is a completely maintenance free heating system,
designed for small sized incubators - THE choice for ppl who do not want to worry about
evaporation of water or possible contams breeding in the wet air inside the incubator
if the used to have a fishtank heater in a open water jar or alike.
an aquarium heater
a plastic bottle that u can fit ut heater inside
some boiled (distilled/germ free) water
how to assemble the heatbomb:
1.) its up to u to find one heater and a plastic bottle that
takes the heater inside without leaving too much space on the sides.
2.) once u got ur bottle and heater ready, wash off all the paper lables that
might stick on it and give the inside of the bottle a nice hot water wash
since it cant be bad to kill all the germs u may be able to kill.
3.) next, boil some water or take ur distilled water and fill the bottle up to the brim.
4.) now, insert ur heater, it will cause the water inside the bottle to splash over
since the mass of the heater forces it to, but its allright since that way
u dont leave any possible air inside (i, sloppily still did though )
5.) next, wipe the area around the top of the bottle dry and start to apply
silicone gel to where the heater enters the bottle, just apply a lot of it,
u want to have a good and waterproof seal.
6.) let this sit for a day to allow it to dry fully (silicone takes some time)
7.) now, apply duct tape over the top of the bottle and the heater,
covering the whole silicone seal as an extra 'anti leakage' precaution.
8.) wipe down the heatbomb with rubbing alcohol to sterilize it.
well, taht's it, there u got ut very own heatbomb, ready to use
the jars pictured were entirely incubated in the heatbombed incubator
and reached full colonisation within 10 days, its straight rye.
sure, it can never ever beat a proper TiT but for ppl who just need small
scale spawn its THE choice since it works like a charm and heats up
ur inc pretty fast
here some more pics for u, just for kicks:
typical heatbomb setup:
different view of heatbomb setup:
closeup on some heatbomb'd jars:
fully colonised heatbomb'd jars (after 10 days):
i hope some of u find this handy, i sure love it!
and btw, im proud to contribute my first 'tek'
- Apg8219 likes this
Posted 20 October 2005 - 10:26 AM
Posted 20 October 2005 - 10:36 AM
Posted 20 October 2005 - 10:43 AM
Posted 20 October 2005 - 12:08 PM
I think its important to add that for some they may need to add a type of fan or a way to circulate the air because I found without it my heatbomb only warmed the area right around the heatbomb, not the whole incubator. So someone offered to me to use a fan or push air somehow to circulate the heat better.
True. With a small fan it is a great idea. On it's own it can dry out the side of jars facing it and the moisture condenses on the other side of the jar making it soggy.
- imaleader likes this
Posted 22 October 2005 - 12:43 PM
If you use a large container, you get more suface area which seems to distribute/radiate the heat more evenly. A larger container also provides a barrier against the aquarium heater going on/off a lot and causing temperature variance and/or a fried heater.
As Freakachino mentioned, a tiny little CPU fan is great at distributing the heat.
If you drill one small hole in the top of your sealed container, it makes for a nice %75-%85 RH in the incubator. A bigger hole sealed with Tyvek makes for a %60-%70 environment (also, it won't spill when you invariably knock the bomb over). A nice, high RH means less chance of jars drying out.
I did toss my el cheapo heater and replaced it with a Wan Brothers Pro Heat Titanium 300 Watt model (got it off eBay for $20). The Pro Heat line is salt water safe and comes with a remote temperature probe that you can attach to the incubator wall some distance away from the bomb. Once you dial in the right setting, your temps should vary by less than 1.5F. Give the incubator at least 4 hours to equalize to each degree change on the thermostat. If you fiddle with it every ten minutes (like I did) you won't get a true reading...
As to this not working in a big chamber, my bomb is doing a great job in a 20 gallon Coleman cooler. Just "stagger stack" the jars so air can circulate around them...
Newbie question: What is a TiT?
Posted 22 October 2005 - 10:39 PM
Posted 23 October 2005 - 01:35 PM
I've got to tell you, though, the set of those I have access to is for "personal use only." I love my mushies, but let 'em find their own!
Posted 30 October 2005 - 11:32 AM
if you don't want any air in your heatbomb, and seem to always be getting some, you could grab an empty/clean syringe, stick it through the silicone and into the air and suck it out. the silicone should heal back up upon removing the needle, and you'll have an airless heatbomb.
Posted 11 August 2007 - 04:42 AM
As with the rest of the PsychoTeks, I am merely providing a beginner pictorial how to of ideas that smarter, sexier, and cooler people than me have already thought up. :bow:They just let me loose with a camera.
Materials List, everything bought at the Mart that Must Not Be Named.
(I forgot to photo the nexcare tape in this picture, you need it!)
80 oz Vlasic Kosher Dills Pickle Jar - glass with a metal lid - $2.50
Tetra 30-60 Gallon 200 watt heater - $23.00
NexCare 3M Waterproof Tape - 3.00
I had a drill bit set, drill, file, and RTV sealant bought from an automotive store.
Our first step is to remove the pickles and juice from the pickle jar. I hate pickles so this was the hardest step of the whole process. They smell terrible! Rinse the jar out with hot water and clean the lid. Dry it with a paper towel.
Here's what your jar looks like:
Now we open up the heater, and we carefully peel off the bottom protective grommet on the bottom of the tetra heater.
This is going to allow for a better sealing (smaller hole) opening of the heater to the jar lid which means less work for us! Yay!
I took my biggest 1/2" drill bit and drilled a hole through the middle of that pickle jar lid after I eyeballed with the glass part of the heater how big I wanted my hole to be. Then after the first hole, I moved the bit over so it would get a good bite at the lid and drilled a hole right beside the first one.
Then I took the drill and by grasping the base of the jar solidly (lid screwed on), I sawed the drill bit in an up and down motion while drilling to 'widen up' the flimsy metal lid into a round hole.
Once you bore the hole wide enough to slip the glass part of the heater (grommet still is off) through the metal lid, you seal the top of the heater to the metal lid with a VERY thick bead of rtv sealant.
Be sure to use your finger to wipe the bead upwards onto the top shaft of the heater - you want to make sure the sealant is making a waterproof unbroken seal from the jar lid to the heater. Do the best you can, take your time here.
I ran the cord straight up in the air and draped it over a lamp so that the heater would sit 'centered' on the top of the pickle jar lid. Otherwise, the weight of the cord pulls the heater to one side and it doesn't seal to the jar top right.
Wait 20 mins and the bead of RTV sealant that you attached to the heater will be cured on the outside, but still be malleable on the underneath that is not exposed to air. This is useful because we can smush the rtv sealant against the heater one more time to get a better seal.
Wait another ten minutes. Now we do the same thing to the bottom side of the lid.
Run the bead on the underside thickly and use your finger to seal it to the glass shaft of the heater.
Let the whole thing sit for an hour or two.
Fill the jar with water to the very top so that the water line is all the way to the top of the jar. Slowly submerge the heater and screw the lid on tightly. This will displace a small amount of water. Wipe it off with a paper towel.
Use your Nexcare tape and seal the top of the heater to the jar lid top by tearing small pieces of tape and pressing strips overlapping around the top of the jar. After you seal the top of the lid to the heater using the tape, run the heater for an hour or so. (let the water expand from the heat and leak out the sides. Then take and wrap two long strips of the nexcare tape around neck of the jar where the jar lid screws on to the base. This stops water from beading out of the side.
This is the finished Jar:
This is the Jar on its side in an incubator (an empty rubbermaid container) Be sure to test your jar for a few hours for any case of the leakybadness. [tm]
Have Fun and Be Safe!
Posted 11 August 2007 - 07:08 AM
to build a heatbomb .
it takes a fully submersible heater though.
i use a big hard plastic bottle [apple juice formerly] rinsed clean
the plastic is too hard to easily cut
so i take tin snips
and cut out a small notch
wide enough to slide the cord into
down the side of the bottle neck /threads
about 1/2 inch or an inch
stick the heater in the bottle, after setting to HIGH,
sliding cord into the cut-out notch
use silicon adhesive to seal the cut inside & out
let that cure,
fill with water
then you can screw the lid on tightly to seal
the cord comes out the bottleneck on the side
not thru the lid.
next time i build one i'll snap a few pix to illustrate
but it only takes a couple minutes,
some tin snips and some silicon
plus the heater and bottle,
and if you should decide to move/mail it
you can drain the water out to lower the weight.