Water. Water! Water?
Posted 03 March 2005 - 10:50 PM
Posted 03 March 2005 - 10:53 PM
Posted 04 March 2005 - 04:38 PM
Don't wait until after the boil to make the holes, or you might bust a few jars. Just cover the top of the jar with foil for the boil.
Posted 20 March 2005 - 01:47 PM
Is there a cure for water logged cakes?
A really dry room?
Posted 20 March 2005 - 01:50 PM
Posted 20 March 2005 - 01:57 PM
my friend has done it with a soggy log she had. she mixed it with some damp verm, not field capacity and broke it up. it ended up working out just fine for her.
hope this suggestion helps
Posted 20 March 2005 - 02:37 PM
Posted 20 March 2005 - 03:04 PM
break them up and use as spawn. mix them in with some coir and verm. and make a casing. you can make the mix a little on the dry side so when its all mixed, the excess water from the cake will level it out and compensate
sounds like a decent POA to me.
Posted 22 February 2006 - 10:32 PM
4 cups of verm, 1.5 cup of BRF and 2 cups of water?
Correct me if im wrong please.
Posted 26 April 2006 - 03:13 PM
The WBS was soaked for nearly 24 hrs before canning and the jars after 12 days were densely colonized. When they came out some slid out and some did not come so easy, but overall they did not seem to be too dry or too wet.
I also used caution not to overly saturate the casing layer when squeezed you'll get some drops, but it's not wet mush either.
So my question is, after reading a post about logs and basket teks getting too dry to make flushies and the need for dunking, Where does the water come from that the flushes need to grow?
Will humidity make a big difference in how they grow? In other words, if a proper humidifier is kept in the grow room to keep 85 - 90%rh, could that alone eliminate the need for dunking, and will the cased wbs get too dry?
Does the humid air keep watering them as they grow, so by the time they are fully mature they are using more water from the air rather than sucking the grains or casing water dry?
Ill post pics later:smokin:
Posted 26 April 2006 - 03:26 PM
Posted 26 April 2006 - 06:04 PM
You might want to consider bottom "casing" layer of verm to help keep the moisture high. I believe its called the rez-effect.
After your first flush and a nice dunk, you should consider that tek
BTW, you cant replace a good dunk
Posted 26 April 2006 - 06:11 PM
if your worried about dunking and contams you should look up some bleach teks.
I make up a gallon or so of bleach water (1.25 tbsp bleach : 1 gallon), add a bit to my dunk water and put some in a spray bottle for fruiting time.
easily keeps contams at bay
Posted 26 April 2006 - 06:26 PM
that answers all of your questions.
The wbs contains enough water to support a flush, also the moist casing layer will wick moisture downwards. Keeping the humidity high will prevent the casing from drying out, but doesn't replace a dunk after the first flush.
rez tek is best done pre 1st flush...
are you really suggesting he disects a perfectly good casing post 1st flush?
there is no point in doing this. especially if 'dunked' as you say..
..how do you 'dunk' your casings, beebopboy?
i think YOU are the one that needs to go read in the archives, friend
Posted 27 April 2006 - 03:34 PM
The next round we're going to attempt a pelletized straw substrate as it holds lots of water, can be dunked 2 or 3 times before moving to an outdoor bed, and requires no pasteurization some report, as the pellets are heat treated at manufacture.
1000 wet here we come.
1000 dry....:eusa_thin, hmm.
Ill post pics in the coming week keep an eye out.
Posted 27 June 2006 - 05:47 PM
Posted 27 June 2006 - 06:32 PM