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Advanced Multiple Grafting on Pereskiopsis


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#1 llamabox

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Posted 30 April 2006 - 11:56 AM

CACTI ON VERTICAL STOCKS
By Irina V. Ovchinnikova, Ukraine


Seven years ago I took interest in grafting cacti on Pereskiopsis. Once I had an idea of grafting a seedling onto the place of an areole. First I grafted 8 seedlings onto a Pereskiopsis which I put horizontally on the soil. The lower areoles rooted, and I grafted seedlings onto the upper ones. The scions survived and developed so dynamically that surpassed their congeners grafted in a usual way.

I was not satisfied with horizontal grafts though they are very convenient – you should just put a cut seedling on the horizontal cut and that's it. As I lacked spare room which is typical for any big collection of cacti I wanted to try vertical grafting.
I chose 10 specimens of Pereskiopsis 20-25 cm high and grafted 20-30 seedlings on them. I usually keep leaves at the lower part of Pereskiopsis, 5-10 cm up from the lowest leaf. The rest of the stem is for grafts.
Posted Image
The process demands a lot of patience and skill. It is not difficult to graft 3-4 seedlings as they have enough cell sap which glues them to the stock and does not dry during the time of grafting. But when you graft 20-30 seedlings the upper ones dry out and fall off even if you place the Pereskiopsis under the cover with high humidity after grafting each of the seedlings. No fixtures work here. I just cut the leaves of Pereskiopsis lenghtwise and dip the cut of the scion in the cell sap. The sap from the leaf of Pereskiopsis is identical to the sap of its stem. That's why the scion is never rejected.
There are also difficulties in cutting areoles. It is not difficult to cut off a prominent areole, it is more difficult to do it in the lower part of the stem. It merges with the stem, so I do a cutting as shown in picture 1.

After grafting I place the Pereskiopsis to a humid greenhouse. Four to seven days are enough for the
scion and stock to grow together. Then I keep the plants as usual.

Pereskiopsis has such a drawback as growing into the graft. If you graft seedlings onto areoles it does not happen. Besides the "pushing" ability of an areole is so strong that even the seedlings with damaged growing point give offsets from each of their own areoles. Seedlings take rather well even at the lowest areoles though this part is usually so lignified that a usual graft should be excluded.
In two months the seedlings grow 1-1.2 cm high and become crowded. You may cut off every second one and keep the rest to grow up to 3-4 cm.
Posted Image
When you graft vertically you skip 2 prickings out of seedlings, save room and time. I grafted about 30 species of cacti and I never observed any rejection or incompatibility.
Material by V. Boxer, Angarsk.

#2 Guest_durban_poison_*

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 12:25 PM

well i have a perskopsis and i want to multiply it. can i just take a cutting just like any other cactus. just cut the top 5 in off let it dry and callous over, then root. seems like it would dry out quickly especially because of the leaves. any advise would be great.:eusa_shif

#3 llamabox

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 12:39 PM

I cut 4-6 inches off. De-leaf an inch or 2 on the bottom, and place in domed tray with peat substrate. They will rot if kept to moist, but must be slightly moist for good rooting. I sometimes let the cut ends dry, but it all depends on the time I have. They seem to do well either way.

#4 Guest_durban_poison_*

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 01:08 PM

is a rooting hormone advised as i have lots sitting around? when you say too moist you are refering to the substrate not the atmosphere right? well my perskopsis has a cereus crest already attached to the top. there is a branch coming from the base that is now about 5in. i was just going to cut this off and root to be my perskopsis mother. should i let it get larger before cutting? this being the only branch coming off of the base i have no room for error on my part. Thanks llama, as always extremely knowledgable and quick to respond.

#5 llamabox

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 01:15 PM

I use a rooting powder, and I think that helps to dry it out faster. Yes on moisture, an overly wet sub will rot the stem. Humidity is ok, and even needed for new grafts.

Just hack it off, and leave the cut on the larger plant exposed to the air, or dust with sulfer. I have never left my cuttings of Peresk sit and callous, and I have only lost 3 out of more than 24 this summer.

If you leave any behind it may grow out a new top there. And if you keep new growth trimmed off as soon as you see it this will help promote faster growth in your graft.

This is the one thing I am having issues with my self. Not the growing of the Peresk, but the grafting it self. But I just keep making new stock, and sooner or later I will get the hang of it.

#6 rocketman

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 01:23 PM

i cut them and stick them in cactus/succulent soil. havent had one die or not root yet.

#7 Guest_durban_poison_*

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 01:26 PM

well i have a gel rooting hormone. I will take pics and keep you guys posted on how it goes. im more intrested in the perskopsis then the crestate cereus so i will leave some perskopsis stem there.

#8 HaiLeY

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 11:35 PM

i cut them and stick them in cactus/succulent soil. havent had one die or not root yet.

I am trying my first lot of Pereskiopsis cuttings right now using the method you mentioned, don't know if they have grown any roots yet but they look pretty healthy. How long did yours take to root?

#9 llamabox

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Posted 04 August 2006 - 07:32 AM

It only takes about 2 weeks. Sometimes a little over a week if they were in full growth when the cuttings were taken.

#10 Guest_durban_poison_*

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 02:14 PM

i will put up some photos tonight. no roots yet it has only been a few days, however it hasnt stoped growing.

#11 HaiLeY

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 12:01 PM

Do Pereskiopsis do well under flouresent lighting? If so what would be the ideal light cycle for optimum growth? I have some sitting in filtered natural light in my kitchen and they are doing ok, but I would'nt mind speeding things up a bit :)

#12 rocketman

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 12:28 PM

can you put them outside where they can get some good sun at least for the rest of the warm weather? if not, or in winter go to wal mart and get a shop light flouro fixture......size dependant on your needs. i have 2 48" fixtures. they sell grow bulbs there too, and they work well. put the bulbs about an inch above the pereskiopsis and you will notice a big difference. i use 12/12 light cycle on all my cactus, but some prefer 18/6.

#13 HaiLeY

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 06:05 PM

Thanks rocketman. Would cool white tubes be ok or does it have to be the grow type tubes?

#14 Phungivore

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 12:33 AM

is this plant pereskiopsis ?

Attached Thumbnails

  • pereskiopsis 1.JPG
  • pereskiopsis 2.JPG


#15 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 04:12 AM

yeah, looks to be so.
that or an elongated sempervivium(sp?), but i doubt it.
maybe tho. but has the phyllotaxy of persekiopsis. any spines?
any aeration in that soil? doesnt look like any perlite in there:confused:
maybe getter into an airier mix and wait a bit to know for sure.
looks like a Pereskia tho, yes. b good!

#16 Phungivore

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 02:22 PM

where would these spines be at the stalk ?

#17 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 04 September 2006 - 06:40 PM

yes. but second thought i believe pereskia dont develop them unitl much older. either way theyd be on the stalk, yes.

#18 Phungivore

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Posted 20 September 2006 - 09:40 PM

got my hands on some true pereskiopsis, so i now know this plant pictured is some other succulent like a jade plant but rosetted

#19 Guest_zekesdream_*

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 06:45 PM

If you have experience rooting Pereskiopsis cuttings, please take a look at these pics and offer any advice you may have. Pay particular attention to the yellowing/orange leaves. Thanks in advance.

conditions -
calloused cuttings
rooting in cactus potting soil 5 days now
room temp/humidity (70f/55%)
window sunlight (Winter here in Zone 7 - 10.5 hours sun/day)
bottom watered twice so far, quite moist soil
Thanks!

Attached Thumbnails

  • 2007_0104pereskiopsis0004.JPG
  • 2007_0104pereskiopsis0003.JPG
  • 2007_0104pereskiopsis0002.JPG


#20 cheech

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 07:09 PM

pereskiopsis can handle a good bit of watering, but it looks like your's have had a bit more than they are comfortable with. i'd let them dry out good.




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