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Silly(c)One's lastest ventures into cannabinology


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#1 SillyCone

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:55 AM

Hi all,

Most of you probably know me for that huge unending thread in the Magic shrooms board... Don't worry, I won't be outputting 15 pages about how I learned to grow cannabis, that would be too long to explain and I'd probably catch Alzheimer before I can finish :p

I haven't got much pics to show yet, but here's the plan.

So I have 2 rooms dedicated to the grow. One for veg and one for bloom, obviously.

In veg, I have a 400W HPS (MH are useless, I know now) and a 200 kubs carbon air filter + RVK. The plants grow on a Duma table with a small drain to waste drip irrigation system. I've been growing in coco coir exclusively for 12 years now, I would NEVER go back to dirt or RW :
1. I love handling the coir
2. great in hydro automated systems
3. even stronger taste and smell than any other substrates
4. very scalable (I use pots from 4L big to 11L)
5. great rootmass/yield ratio

In bloom, I'm restructurating the whole room. What doesn't change is the ventilation system (1000 kub/out, 450 kub/in) and the irrigation system (300L rez, 6000L/h pump, drain to waste drip spiders - 12 plants each).
I used to have 3x 600 HPS horizontally with Adjust A Wing reflectors that gave me close to 1g/W harvests, with around 12 plants per square meter. This time I'm going vertical, with 2x 600W stacked... I also intend to reach the 1g/W goal or more...

For now, I got those strains going :

- NYCD "soma" cut
- Amnesia "core" cut
- Sweet Skunk (Breeder Steve's cut)
- Panama CBG (=Cannabiogen, my friend Charlie Garcia)
- Cheeseberry Haze (own selection from seed)
- Khmer Gold (landrace from Cambodia)

I'll probably received a few more cuts tonight, out of my head :
- C99BX
- Jack Herrer
- Big Buddah Cheese (I did the original Cheese many times before, this is the first time with a copy... I did the same with the ECSD and the copy was very close)
- Last but not least.... tbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrtadaaaaaa : A5 Haze !!!

I might still get some more strains in the close future. I probably won't keep MP of most, as most come from close friends with loads of mother plants. Ahh, nothing to worry about for once !

Cheers,
Silly©One.
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#2 roc

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 01:19 PM

Sounds like a nice setup and does make one self sufficient.

Kudos to you!

#3 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:43 PM

Firstly - never say never. The universe LOVES to make ya eat yer own words (at least that has been my experience).

Second - pulling up a chair, man. If ya put half the detail and love into this thread that ya did the other one, I'll be a happy mutha...

One way or the other - good luck!!!

#4 Jawn

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:46 PM

Lookin' forward to the pictures! I love a high quality grow.

#5 Dr.Psilo.

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 11:53 PM

What type of ferts do you use? Surely you don't use coir by itself do you?

#6 SillyCone

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 12:38 AM

Thanks all for the good vibes, !

@roc, one and many of his friends ;)

@Bucky, hehe, in theory, I'd say you're definitely right, but in the case of coir, I'm willing to take the bet against THE WHOLE UNIVERSE :D ;)

@Jawn, I'll try not to disappoint :p

@Dr.Psilo : I use exclusively dutch ferts, as I live relatively close to the Netherlands (my favorite grow shop is around 60 miles away from home) and they are much cheaper than the local shops who also provide... Advanced Nutrients, who are already thieves in Canada, but adding the shipping and you have absolutely insane prices... but I diverge already.
So here are the products I cannot live without anymore, and have proven themselves along the years :
- ATAMI/B'Cuzz Coco A+B : base NPK
- Bio Nova BN-Zym : enzymes, absolutely necessary with coir
- ATA-XL : the bomb (vitamins, enzymes, fulvic acid, amino acids, kelp extracts => hormones & micro-elements, and probably other things, all that in a 100% soluble liquid adapted for drips systems - how to grow organic in hydro :thumbup:), used in bloom. In the past, I've used all those elements in powder format, but those would clog up the drips in my hydro system, produces a stinky foam and make a general mess of my reservoir...
- a mix of mycorizaes, beneficial bacterias and amino acids, used at each repotting for a great microfauna and flora, good for chelation of the nutes among other symbiotic things...
- PK 13/14 to boost flower production, used sparingly from week 5 to 7-8.
- Roots Exelurator : the cheapest and the best roots booster, used in veg for explosive roots growth

I try to keep the EC at maximum 1.8, and pH for coir is best between 5.6 and 6.2. The water in the reservoir is heated to 21C and mixed by a circulation pomp. The main pomp is set on a cyclic assymetric second timer in DIN package (rail).

Edited by SillyCone, 19 October 2011 - 12:45 AM.


#7 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 12:59 AM

Heh, heh, heh...

I don't wanna be a dick but ya sound a lot like I once did. And hey man, don't think I'm calling ya wrong. You may come to completely different conclusions than I did (and I might well learn some new trix from ya).

HOWEVER...

Coir is a great additive but a little bit of dirt goes a long way once you start concentrating on microbial life in the substrate. The more you can jack organic activity in the substrate, the bigger a plant you can grow with less nutes and better stress tolerance (in less dirt as well). Especially if you use pots designed to prune the roots and maximize root formation.

Straight coir cannot support the same diversity of microbial life that a coir/soil matrix can support.

Whether or not that diversity of microbial fauna will drastically effect the quality and quantity of your buds is very much open to discussion. Personally, I think the organic route is a good one (as long as you use quality hydroponic salt nutrients as the base regimen).

But again - these are just my opinions...
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#8 SillyCone

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 06:45 PM

Heh, heh, heh...

Do you picture yourself on one side of main street, one hand above your Colt, with myself facing you and glazing you with cold eyes ? :laser:

ROFLMAO, man, that was overdue, at last some challenge... but this time, we're playing in a field I've made my own for almost as long as you did, unlike them shrooms :D

I don't wanna be a dick but ya sound a lot like I once did. And hey man, don't think I'm calling ya wrong. You may come to completely different conclusions than I did (and I might well learn some new trix from ya).

Hihihihi I absolutely love it when people start a sentence with "I don't wanna be a XXXXX, but [here am I, saying XXXXX things]"
Just joking, as I'm harvesting huge blue penises, and I once heard : you are what you eat... :D

Coir is a great additive but a little bit of dirt goes a long way once you start concentrating on microbial life in the substrate. The more you can jack organic activity in the substrate, the bigger a plant you can grow with less nutes and better stress tolerance (in less dirt as well). Especially if you use pots designed to prune the roots and maximize root formation.

Straight coir cannot support the same diversity of microbial life that a coir/soil matrix can support.
Whether or not that diversity of microbial fauna will drastically effect the quality and quantity of your buds is very much open to discussion. Personally, I think the organic route is a good one (as long as you use quality hydroponic salt nutrients as the base regimen).

But again - these are just my opinions...

Of course, my friend, are we still men if we can't share opinions ? Please rest assured that none of your comments are taken in a personal way or felt displaced in any way.

Now that it's said, let me try to argument a bit...

If you're starting to know me a little, you know what I'm about to say : in theory, I agree 100% with everything you said above. BUT (hihihi of course), but, in practice, I have to disagree, a little.

Coir has the perfect air to water retention ratio to support the fastest growth possible. That's the most important aspect of the substrate in my eyes. And it's organic, meaning it is easy to implement microbial life in it. As you may have read in my post just above yours, I use a lot of organic complements. At every repotting, I inoculate the coir with mycorizae and bacterias, and I feed those with ATA-XL and molasses from time to time. Enzymes are also used with every single watering.

I used soil for 7 years before switching to coco, and from time to time, I had a plant or 2 in soil next to the others in coco. IMHE, coco beats dirt hands down without hesitation. But it wasn't that easy in the beginning, because you have to control many parameters you don't even have to take into account seriously for dirt, like development of your "own" microbial and mycorizal life, much less pH buffering capacity, using pH adjusted fertilized water for every watering, learning the nutrient recipes for hydroponics in the marketing jungle, flushing the excess salts in the substrate every few weeks, using automatic watering systems as coir has to be watered minimum 2 times a day, ...

Coir is neutral, in that way, it is optimal for control freaks like me as I can and have to control every parameter. It is much less forgiving than soil, but when you master the fucker, it will give you results beyond your wildest dreams !

Not wanting to brag (meh, ok, just a bit), but one of the biggest growers from Amsterdam at the end of the '90s/early 2000, the one who gave the Amnesia cut to Core and thus the community and was growing it under 60 lamps when he got busted, saw my buds of the cut and told me he was really impressed, he'd rarely seen it so sti(n)ky and so full of trichomes. With coir, the Core cut, in my care, creates droplets of sugars and terpenes, and the leaves are almost black without any signs of overfertilization, meaning it's maxed out in chlorophyle... The plant is producing so much elaborated sap it's oozing it from the pores of the calyxes... I've never ever seen any other plant do that, and I've never seen the Core cut do that in other substrates than coir.

Man, the problem with coir is that I could write an entire book on its advantages, and I never know where to start (ADHD brain...).

That's an issue I'm facing more and more as my consciousness expands on many subjects, it gets harder and harder to explain as the knowledge becomes more and more intuitive and less and less expressable verbally... I always try not to go too deep in order to keep a link with my peers by communicating, but at the same time I feel it holds me back. You know ? Like the shaman who has to live recluded as he's going too deep for the other members of the tribe to follow, at least he has the advantage he doesn't have to explain himself in order to be believed. Ah, faith has its uses after all ;)

Edited by SillyCone, 19 October 2011 - 07:01 PM.


#9 SillyCone

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 07:13 PM

I don't have most my pics at hand right now (got around 10-15GB of cannabis DSLR pics - to be sorted :p), but here are 2 I dug out of my forum for your viewing pleasure.

This is an F2 of Sensi's Jack Herrer that goes by the name of Jack F1 (for Formula 1, not F2, F3, etc).
The ice-o of that plant was grey/black !
She was perfectly ripe at 10 weeks, had some chocolate/hazy flavour and a strong sativa high. I didn't keep her due to a mislabeling of the clones I received at the time. It should be possible to find her back, but there's only 1 Jack that I absolutely want to grow again, the one I named as Jack Candy for my community at the time and is now known in the french community by that name still. But more on that cut if I have the opportunity to grow it for this session.

Meanwhile, I give you, the Jack F1 :

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319069592

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319069592

Attached Thumbnails

  • Jack 1.jpg
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Edited by SillyCone, 19 October 2011 - 07:21 PM.


#10 Enoch

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 02:10 AM

Thanks all for the good vibes, !
- ATAMI/B'Cuzz Coco A+B : base NPK
- Bio Nova BN-Zym : enzymes, absolutely necessary with coir
- ATA-XL : the bomb (vitamins, enzymes, fulvic acid, amino acids, kelp extracts => hormones & micro-elements, and probably other things, all that in a 100% soluble liquid adapted for drips systems - how to grow organic in hydro :thumbup:), used in bloom. In the past, I've used all those elements in powder format, but those would clog up the drips in my hydro system, produces a stinky foam and make a general mess of my reservoir...
- a mix of mycorizaes, beneficial bacterias and amino acids, used at each repotting for a great microfauna and flora, good for chelation of the nutes among other symbiotic things...
- PK 13/14 to boost flower production, used sparingly from week 5 to 7-8.
- Roots Exelurator : the cheapest and the best roots booster, used in veg for explosive roots growth



Hmm, I think I may have found my new shopping list. I am attempting my first indoor cannabis grow. I have read about coco and it seems like the best choice for people who can not afford an aeroponic system. I have a few seedlings in 50/50 coir/perlite. I have the Technaflora full line starter pack called the Recipe For Success kit. I got it because it was pretty cheap but now I am thinking I may have to go for a nutrient line that is specifically made for coco.


Sillycone, are you growing in 100% coco? What mycorrhizal/beneficial bacteria products are you using? Have you tried the FungiPerfecti mycorrhizal products?

#11 SillyCone

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 06:41 AM

Hello Enoch,

To me, yes, the coco is the best hydroponic substrate hands-down. As a matter of fact, I believe the only way to beat coco is to go full aero (TAG with high pressure sprays), but you loose many advantages for pure production. I like to stay in contact with the earth, and coco is much more "earthy" than TAG (=True Aero Grow). Coco produces enough for me that I don't want to trade my pleasure for even more prod. Oh and with aero, be prepared for a nightmare as you have absolutely no buffering capacity : pH is 1.5 off ? in a few minutes you see the plants reacting. I wouldn't sleep anymore and would have to monitor my plants 24/7 ;)

You can't go wrong with ATAMI and BioNova, they've been used extensively by dutch growers for at least 15 years, and have helped produced thousands of tons of cannabis. They are the best but also the cheapest (in 5 or 10L containers) in a specialized market that understood you could ask the moon for a litre of shit, and the hobby grower would give it to you if he thinks there's even a slight chance to get more production out of... a miracle or something. You know the catch.

Yes, I'm growing in 100% coco, it is absolutely perfect as it is. That said, it's a good idea to mix it with Perlite like you did for the seedling stage, else you have to be extremely carefull with the watering. Coco is great once fast growth has set in, making available to the roots the perfect mix of oxygen and water, but for seedlings and recovering cuts it might hold too much water. After that stage is passed, the bigger the plant, the faster she drinks... The mass above the ground can be up to 9 times the root mass, I've had plants in 7L pots drink more than a litre of water twice a day !

For mycos (I never know how to spell that one :D), I used to buy MycoMaxx @ super-grow.biz, the guy (Michel) had everything needed in powder format : pure fulvic and humic acids, gibberlines, cytokinines, mycos, kelp extract, amino acids, etc. Damn it's one of my biggest losses on the net... The guy was fighting the system, providing amazing products for ridiculous prices. With 5$, you could buy 1 oz of PURE fulvic acid. 1g was enough to beat Diamond Nectar (GHE) in concentration... And Diamond Nectar costs 20€ per LITRE here in growshops.

Sorry for the diversion... I don't know all the products that contains mycos, I just try to find them at the shop I'm at, depending on the brands he carries. Most modern product lines carry a mix of beneficial bio helpers. At AN, I believe it's sold separately (more cash for them) and one of them is Tarantula.
The mix I'm using right now, for example, is from Humbold Nutrients or something like that. Doesn't matter, really, as long as you add bacterias and mycos and you learn how to feed them.

Edited by SillyCone, 20 October 2011 - 06:52 AM.


#12 SillyCone

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 11:59 AM

Went to take a few pics.
First 1 is in veg, second is NYCD and the rest is my flowering room as work-in-progress.
Oh and last one is the new pots I'm trying, Smart Pots from the USA. Roots are prunning already, I'm curious to see the results, as I've always used square pots.
Next on my shopping list are 10 Air Pots, I'll probably run 10 plants in each kind of pot, and maybe a control square pot.

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319129703

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Edited by SillyCone, 20 October 2011 - 12:15 PM.


#13 SillyCone

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 09:49 PM

I think one of the most important things I understood along the years growing in coco, that applies to any hydroponic inert substrate, is the composition of a good cannabis diet, that is, all the additives that matter, avoiding all the marketing hype that plagues our beloved craft.
Here are these elements :

- mycorizae & beneficial bacterias in the substrate : they develop around and in the roots (ecto- and endomycorizae) to help with the nutrients uptake. They chelate the nutrients, breaking them into smaller pieces that are more able to pass through the osmotic barrier of the roots. The beneficial bacterias help fight the "bad" bacterias growing around decaying root matter, among other things.

- enzymes : they help activate the microlife by breaking down the cellulose from dead roots into simpler sugars. Absolutely needed with every watering in coir.

- a cocktail of vitamins and amino acids : plants love it, but with moderation. excess vitamins are eliminated with no harm to the plant, but they are expensive so no need to overdo it. Amino acids are especially usefull during veg stage but are beneficial during most the plant's life.

- humic and fulvic acids : those are the building blocks of soil © mother nature. To be exact, humic acid comes from decaying leaves, and that's the smell of the florest (humus). Add pressure to it for a few thousand years and you got oil. This is the black gold of nature. The problem with humic acid is it's not 100% soluble, so it clogs up hydro systems and accumulate in the substrate, which becomes "dirty", literally. The solution is the use of fulvic acid, which is extracted from humic acid, and is 100% soluble in water. In it's pure form, it's extremely concentrated, a few centigrams will completely darken a litre of water in seconds. It has many uses as it activates symbiotic microlife, but one I'm sure about is its chelating capacity, so I like to use it in every watering. A little bit will go a long way.

- kelp extract : that one is magical. It's some kind of seaweed that's been dried, and it contains tons of useful components for plants, the most important, functionally, are : microelements and plant hormones, mostly cytokinines (they boost chlorophyl production or cell division, don't remember - wiki them - but in practice it helps cannabis produce more sidebranching). Kelp extract can be added to every watering at every stage of growth, and can be used to boost rooting for clones, help chlorophyl production and general plant health when foliar fed, and many other uses. Oh, and its effects are potentialized when combined with fulvic acid. Try a mix of 0.25g/L of kelp extract and 0.11g/L of fulvic acid as a foliar spray - under the leaves is better - in case of premature yellowing of the leaves or in support for young seedlings/clones, you'll be amazed by the results ! Add a little L-amino acids and you got the perfect diet for baby cannabis plants, no fear of burning them.

- pH down (phosphoric acid mostly for bloom) : having a well adjusted pH is one of the most important aspects of growing hydroponically. EC (electroconductivity, measuring the quantity of salts dissolved in water) doesn't matter so much, in the sense that you can learn to measure it intuitively, and even if not, just cut the quantities indicated on the label in half and you should always be on the safe side of the EC scale for cannabis. With a "wrong" pH, many nutrients chemically lock up, crystalize or precipitate, making them unavailable to the roots, and with time, clog up the capilaries of hydro systems, nozzle heads of aero, etc. Coir likes lower pH than many others, as it doesn't have much buffering *or* maybe because it comes from coconuts broken down in tropical ocean water which are very salty with a high pH. As I matter of fact, I don't give a sh*t why but have empirically determined that my plants like it best between 5.6 and 6.2. Water has to be pH balanced EVERY TIME, even when flushing the coco every 2 or 3 weeks, else salts accumulate very quickly. Even then it's not rare to get ECs in the excess water measured up to 4.0 Siemens ! How cannabis roots cope with that, I have no idea, but it never stopped them from blossoming...

- water, and lots of it ! Coir CAN NEVER DRY OUT ! As soon as the plant in it is mature enough, past the seedling stage, coir always holds enough air that you could even water it continuously and not fear root rot. Of course that depends on the grade of the coir you're using. Some are more coarse than others, those are the ones to look for if you want a recirculating hydro system. Slabs like CoGR are of that kind. The finely ground coir is more adapted to hand watering as it will hold more water and cope with less frequent waterings. I personally prefer the finely ground one, it is smoother to the touch and more sensual to handle and works very well in my drips systems.

Edited by SillyCone, 20 October 2011 - 10:18 PM.

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#14 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 11:33 PM

Man, this is why I hate talking about growing weed....

I didn't mean to sound like a dick and I sure didn't mean to sound like I was ready to slap leather at high noon.

There are many different ways to grow damned good pot. And some of 'em involve no media whatsoever.

I didn't mean to sound like I was pissing on coir or suggesting that it is an inferior media. The only reason I realized coir was good for growing mushrooms was because I already knew how good it was at growing pot.

But these days I grow pot in Fox Farm Ocean Forest. Three months from now, I might be growing in Yeti fur (assuming the local SubGenius collective can get off the frop and onto the herding).

Seriously, though, no diss intended man. Coir is an excellent substrate.

#15 SillyCone

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 06:05 AM

Man, please relax ! Damn internet communications, everybody spends its time apologizing... There is absolutely no dis taken, I was trying to make humour and welcoming the intellectual challenge you proposed me.

You certainly didn't sound patronizing or anything, and I certainly never meant to express you lacked any gentleman qualities...

Ahh man, if this would be live, we'd be sharing a spliff laughing out loud at our own stupidity ;)

Sorry if I came out as defensive or agressive to you, its only my passion for coir I'm trying to convey... Or maybe you felt like I was justifying myself ?
Not at all : having been an admin of cannabis forums for years, also because I love to talk ;), I learned to be as extensive as possible for teaching purposes. Everytime someone asks me a question, it's an opportunity to tackle a subject under a new light ! Of course most of what I say isn't intended for you as I have no doubt you know all that too well !

Edited by SillyCone, 21 October 2011 - 06:24 AM.


#16 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 11:27 PM

Mea culpa, man...

I'm way over sensitive these days and it keeps leaking out in weird ways like it did above.

No harm, no foul from my perspective.

And I'd be hitting that spliff with ya and giggling about how easy it is to misinterpret stuff on-line...

#17 SillyCone

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 07:56 AM

Ok then, all is well...

Let this thread start back on track !

Yesterday I went to the new growshop in Brussels. Bought some coir (B'Cuzz/ATAMI 50L bags), some ATA-XL (I can't go missing on that one, it's almost as important as my basic NPK) and most importantly, 10 Air Pots as I said earlier. Man I love those !
Very Hi-Tec/S&M kinda look :D

Here's a review in 420 magazine forums (I hope I can link this here ?) :
http://www.420magazi...containers.html

I'm already more convinced by Air Pots than Smart Pots, as they are made of recycled plastics and thus are very rigid : moving the plants doesn't harm the roots as the container doesn't change shape, unlike Smart Pots which are made of fiber cloth. Smart pots take less space than Air Pots, though, empty or full. I believe it's going to be much cleaner to work with Air Pots, as roots grow through the cloth with Smart Pots and I guess will stay woven into the fibers... I can't imagine how the Smart ones will look like after they had a few yields in them...

Anyways, I love the concept of roots trimming and it is great to make new experiments on that principle. Keeps one motivated along with the vertical lighting.

Edited by SillyCone, 23 October 2011 - 10:50 AM.


#18 SillyCone

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 10:48 AM

First, general view of the veg room with the new girls (4x C99BX, 2x Jack Herrer (hazy pheno), 1x A5 Haze) :

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319384716

Then a closeup of the new root trimming pots : Air and Smart :

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319384716

And finally, different stages of an Air Pot :

https://mycotopia.ne...=1&d=1319384716

Attached Thumbnails

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#19 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:12 AM

I am also a very big fan of using air pruning pots!

I use the "Rootmaker" brand, starting with the quart size and moving up to the one gallon squares. Root pruning pots make a big difference in getting the plant to use all the available soil space.

With air pruning, a plant that would need a 3 gallon regular pot can be finished in 1 gallon of media. One must pay a little more attention to watering because the containers dry out much quicker but the savings in space and the smaller amount of waste generated are totally worth it.

One suggestion - if you put just a little bit of space between the containers you will get even better results. A little bit of air circulation makes the air pruning more effective while also increasing the amount of oxygen in the root zone.

#20 SillyCone

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 12:07 PM

I'd never heard of Rootmaker but just paid them a visit, they seem to know what they're doing ;)

Their product line is very extensive, and I like both their cloth and injection molded containers, but seems to me the Air Pot is a superior solution to their RootBuilder® II Kits. Anyways, it's not even a matter of choice, as Rootmaker isn't available here in Benelux (Belgium-Netherlands-Luxembourg) and importing plastic containers from the USA is an ecological nonsense.

As for container sizes and air pruning, in coir, for a middle sized plant, I never needed more than 6L of substrate (< 1.5 gallons). The air pruning pots I bought were all that size, so I'm really curious as to what this will bring to the already explosive root growth I obtain with coir and drip irrigation systems watering with cycles of a few seconds many times a day... (let's call that second dripping or microdripping). Oh and of course that means that drying out is never going to be an issue for me as I would never use coir without microdripping.

In order to be sure, I repotted the 4 C99BX in the following containers : 2x Smart Pot 6L, 1x Air Pot 7L, 1x square pot 6.5L. Now just wait and see...

Edited by SillyCone, 23 October 2011 - 12:12 PM.





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