
silicon sealent and tyvek
#1
Posted 13 May 2006 - 11:09 AM
im going to be using the last of my syringe in two(only have .75 left) so i need the self healing port, and maybe tyvek paper
do all cd cases use tyvek?, i think i read this somewhere. how do i know if its tyvek
#2
Posted 13 May 2006 - 11:15 AM
can i use any type of silicone sealent as a self healing port?
im going to be using the last of my syringe in two(only have .75 left) so i need the self healing port, and maybe tyvek paper
do all cd cases use tyvek?, i think i read this somewhere. how do i know if its tyvek
Maybe try injecting the .75cc into a liquid culture for the most bang. Anyways tyvek is what postal envelopes are made of, the white ones that look like compressed fiber paper that is really strong and doesn't rip.
#3
Posted 13 May 2006 - 11:36 AM
it can take the heat.
dunno about cd cases,
but if you can't find tyvek envelopes at post office
try polyfil [pillow stuffing]
#4
Posted 13 May 2006 - 11:55 AM
2.i should inject the rest i have into 1 lc
3.if i was to use tyvek, could i shake it around
4.tyvek doesn't rip-so i should look for an unripperable postal envelope then
#5
Posted 13 May 2006 - 12:23 PM
2. Make an a LC in the biggest canning jar you have. Only fill it 2/3 full. Sterilize it and then inject only half your remaining spore solution. .75 mL should contain a LOT of microscopic spores.
3. If you do a double tyvek layer with some kind of spacer so the pieces don't touch, you can shake to your heart's content (sheet metal washers make good spacers). If you use polyfill, don't shake (swirl gently), you don't want to get the polyfill wet.
4. If you get the Post Office envelopes (or CD covers) that have long visible fibers and can't be ripped (they just stretch), you have tyvek. The PO calls these "Priority Mailing" envelopes and there should be a big stack of them at the supply counter of your local PO.
Here are two lids with four silicone injector ports. The lid on the right needs another layer of tyvek, it was left off to show the washer. The underside of each lid has another washer and layer of tyvek (two washers, two layers of tyvek):

Underside pic (again, needs it's tyvek attached):

The attached thumbnail is a topside closeup. Hope this helps!
Much more complete writeup:
http://mycotopia.net...ead.php?t=10067
#6
Posted 13 May 2006 - 01:16 PM
there are different type, such as for "bath rooms" for "windows" and "all purpose"
there are others but what should i look for in regards to it being suitable
#7
Posted 13 May 2006 - 01:17 PM
#8
Posted 13 May 2006 - 01:29 PM
it's transparent, making hiting the hole a bit easier
plus it sticks better
plus it can take higher temps.
RTV brand silicon adhesive at auto supply store.
go.
now.
;)
#9
Posted 13 May 2006 - 02:46 PM
#10
Posted 13 May 2006 - 03:03 PM
#11
Posted 13 May 2006 - 03:07 PM
the ear plugs are hard to keep in position, i hear.
:lol:
#12
Posted 13 May 2006 - 03:08 PM
it is.
the ear plugs are hard to keep in position, i hear.
:lol:
Whadya say? What?
:teeth:
#13
Posted 13 May 2006 - 03:32 PM
#14
Posted 13 May 2006 - 03:59 PM
#15
Posted 13 May 2006 - 04:12 PM
what properties of silicone sealent should i look for? give me some basics so i can at least make a informed decision
hippie has already given you the basics pretty much. man. a silicon that is clear and can withstand higher temperatures is best
#16
Posted 13 May 2006 - 04:19 PM
so what other things or should i get a upvc type silicone sealent or one for doors
#17
Posted 13 May 2006 - 06:11 PM
Hippie uses RTV brand silicone adhesive. You can get it virtually anywhere, as well. I'm not certain what it's primary use is, but I've seen it in a ton of auto parts stores.
If you want to choose a brand different from one of those, you need to go to the store and carefully examine the labels of the products you can choose from. If the label doesn't indicate a maximum usable temperature, write down the brand names and look the info up on the web. I would suggest looking for MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets). Google can help you here.
The temp range for Silicone II is -75F to +400F, so it is fine in the pressure cooker. Virtually any Silicone based product is going to survive the temps. You won't know how flexible it is going to be, though, until you squirt some out and test it. Goop, for instance, is thin and dries kind of hard. It takes multiple applications to get a thick glob and it is not very good at self healing. You want something that says on the label that it stays flexible after curing.
I would highly recommend searching out one of the two specificly mentioned (and extensively tested) brands already mentioned, but to each his own.
If you find something new that works great, please let us know...
#18
Posted 13 May 2006 - 06:28 PM
#19
Posted 13 May 2006 - 10:42 PM
#20
Posted 14 May 2006 - 05:28 AM
are all rtv brands the same? or do these differer aswell
anyone?