i usualy go overkill on precautions
(especially first time)
if time/$$$ permits
INVITRO DIXIE GROW
Started By
prismaticEffects
, Jun 06 2006 10:50 AM
101 replies to this topic
#22
Mind
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Posted 09 June 2006 - 09:52 PM
that is totally not necessary unless you were living in a dumpster or your verm barrier is not thick enough or some shit like that :)
Once again different strokes for different folks :)
YEeee, lol yea im with u on that, lol
#23
prismaticEffects
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 12:21 AM
well how about this:
why not spray?
she doesn't need to
but it certainly doesnt hurt to clean the air of the space being used to incubate...
it isn't a dumpster,
but that closet isn't a sterile environment either.
no worries about mutations because it's only sprayed while the top is down.
why not spray?
she doesn't need to
but it certainly doesnt hurt to clean the air of the space being used to incubate...
it isn't a dumpster,
but that closet isn't a sterile environment either.
no worries about mutations because it's only sprayed while the top is down.
#24
encapsulated
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:53 AM
well sounds like you are fine then :)
#25
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:55 AM
i dont think oust (glycol based) is a petroleum product, is it?
#26
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 02:08 AM
just googled some more and oust keeps 98% of the ingredients a 'trade secret'
supposedly the 'inert' ingredients can indeed cause some fucked up shit on a microbial level
(yeah,that 98% is claimed to be 'inert'.by dupont,and when tested those 'inert' ingredients killed SPERM,inert? hardly)
id avoid any chemical particles in the fruiting/incubation chamber.
just bleach the cooler or whatever yer usin b4 use and store in a clean area o the house
pf jars have a 'filter' built-in,dry vermiculite on top,
so you can even inoc./store in open air with tin foil lids if you wanted to.
supposedly the 'inert' ingredients can indeed cause some fucked up shit on a microbial level
(yeah,that 98% is claimed to be 'inert'.by dupont,and when tested those 'inert' ingredients killed SPERM,inert? hardly)
id avoid any chemical particles in the fruiting/incubation chamber.
just bleach the cooler or whatever yer usin b4 use and store in a clean area o the house
pf jars have a 'filter' built-in,dry vermiculite on top,
so you can even inoc./store in open air with tin foil lids if you wanted to.
#27
prismaticEffects
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 02:12 AM
ok, cool cap-
-thanks
-thanks
#28
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 02:22 AM
no problem, anytime i can elp im glad to.
youll pick up yer own little way of doing things,
and drop whatever isnt necessary.
just takes some time doin it to find yer groove
youll be fine.
just keep it super simple,& dont stress the small stuph
hope to hear some good news soon, pfx
be well :hippie:
youll pick up yer own little way of doing things,
and drop whatever isnt necessary.
just takes some time doin it to find yer groove
youll be fine.
just keep it super simple,& dont stress the small stuph
hope to hear some good news soon, pfx
be well :hippie:
#29
Hippie3
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 08:31 AM
i use Oust
no probs yet
no probs yet
#30
prismaticEffects
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 12:04 PM
quick question:
while incubating for invitro,
the lids should be screwed tight, right?
tape and foil are OFF
once colonization is complete,
then you want to loosen the lids for air-exchange,
correct?
while incubating for invitro,
the lids should be screwed tight, right?
tape and foil are OFF
once colonization is complete,
then you want to loosen the lids for air-exchange,
correct?
#31
reverend trips
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 12:17 PM
Thats right.while incubating for invitro,
the lids should be screwed tight, right?
tape and foil are OFF
I've always waited till I see pins form and then losen and flip upside down.once colonization is complete,
then you want to loosen the lids for air-exchange,
correct?
Make sure you give it a few days after it looks colonized anyway, just to make sure it is fully colonized.
#32
prismaticEffects
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 12:21 PM
thanks Rev-
actually that leads me to another question:
do you remove your vermiculite barrier(s)?
if so, when?
actually that leads me to another question:
do you remove your vermiculite barrier(s)?
if so, when?
#33
reverend trips
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 12:25 PM
I remove it after the first flush, then dunk.do you remove your vermiculite barrier(s)?
if so, when?
#34
prismaticEffects
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Posted 10 June 2006 - 09:26 PM
cool thanks
i'm so excited,
i just can't hide it...
:teeth:
i'm so excited,
i just can't hide it...
:teeth:
#35
prismaticEffects
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Posted 11 June 2006 - 05:31 PM
Day 4:
Attached Thumbnails
#36
SharkieJones
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Posted 11 June 2006 - 07:28 PM
Nice looks like your friend is on her way. Good luck.
#37
prismaticEffects
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Posted 11 June 2006 - 08:01 PM
does anyone have any idea what sort of difference there will be
between the tap water/ pond water substrates?
faster myco-growth?
healthier fruiting?
etc, etc.
between the tap water/ pond water substrates?
faster myco-growth?
healthier fruiting?
etc, etc.
#39
beardedlady
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Posted 12 June 2006 - 12:25 AM
I just knocked up 10 jars, 5 with tap water, 5 with fishtank water. This was 11 days ago. The spread of mycelium in all jars is about even, not one type colonizing quicker than any other. Maybe we'll see when it comes to fruits, if it made a difference?
Vegetarian fish produce feces with vegetable matter in it...so that water should be good, right?
Vegetarian fish produce feces with vegetable matter in it...so that water should be good, right?
#40
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Posted 12 June 2006 - 12:50 AM
tap water is usually treated with lotsa chems. depends where ya live.
better off usin well water, or collected from a body of fresh water
yer fish tank water will work fine, beardedlady, its just a bit richer. n/p.
the thing is, in this hobby, you want to try to use only organic materials.
any chemmy tap water YOU wouldnt want to drink should be avoided,
i think the original PFtek calls for bottled distilled H2O [dont quote me on that 1]
but even treated tap water will still work IME. but i just use distilled (r/o).
1 option in lieu of distilled is the run-off from yer a/c unit. its free :)
better off usin well water, or collected from a body of fresh water
yer fish tank water will work fine, beardedlady, its just a bit richer. n/p.
the thing is, in this hobby, you want to try to use only organic materials.
any chemmy tap water YOU wouldnt want to drink should be avoided,
i think the original PFtek calls for bottled distilled H2O [dont quote me on that 1]
but even treated tap water will still work IME. but i just use distilled (r/o).
1 option in lieu of distilled is the run-off from yer a/c unit. its free :)
