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Redboy -potato/malt agar jars - G2G / Myc Syringes - Mycelium Milking / Super-Inoc


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#41 plantman21

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 01:05 PM

I think that if you didn't sterilize, you would end up with the mean green or worse. YOu would have to fractual sterilize, to make sure no badies get a foot hold.

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#42 hyphaenation

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 01:12 PM

Feel free to experiment ... I'm on a bit of a trajectory. My main goal is to try the milking equipment out by flooding several jars in tadem (with one jug of myc-milk) and freeze some extra to see how it holds up to freeze/thaw. There's some other ideas I'm birthing regarding mixing the milked myc-water with blended egg-carton pulp and using that to super-spawn bulk sub like horse manure. The idea being a fairly contam-free inoculant than doesn't contain grain , but has the ability to entirely mix with the bulk sub. In past experiments I found that blended egg-carton was excellent for mixing. It takes on a fluffly pulp-like appearance after blending with water , I think it will work excellent when mixed with heavy myc-water.

My silicone is dry on last nights tweakings. You really have to let that stuff set up proper , especially if your going to be PC'in it. By taking time to make those lids right , I should be able to use them for many moons.

I'm excited at trying Amaranth for the first time and also for my first milking.

I'll keep you posted.


PS: Steamed popcorn is possible ... its been done many times here:

https://mycotopia.ne...orn-experiment/

https://mycotopia.ne...tml#post1109842


Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:40 PM.

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#43 hyphaenation

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 06:46 PM

I was concerned about the first milking tube that I made and that it wouldn't withstand PC'ing very well. I upgraded to a new set and used plumbers tape and even a wee bit of duct-tape , just to make sure it doesn't leak when pouring. The milking tube is thicker also. Very shortly I'll PC the rig with a dummy-jar at one end and the clean water jar on the other. I'll slip the dummy-jar lid off and place it on the jar I'm going to milk , fasten the band and dump most of the water into the colonized jar. Swirl that around and shake , then dump back into the water jar and let drip drain and return normal breather lid ... then move on to the next jar and so on down the line. The original water jar will have extra water so that each jar will get a full super-inoculation.

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Just giving the silicone the very last chance to dry and I'll be off milking the blue cow shortly ...

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:42 PM.

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#44 hyphaenation

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 07:11 PM

Here's the milking rig hooked up with a dummy-jar and one with clean water. I'm about to PC this for 1/2 hour or so at 5 PSI.

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:43 PM.


#45 hyphaenation

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 08:02 PM

Hopefully the rig stands up to 5psi for 30 minutes. Its the plastic hosing and silicone I'm concerned about , so I added a double layer of toweling to keep the rubber off the pc walls and protect the lids. When its done in a few minutes I'll move it to my cold basement and before it completely gets cold I'll remove the rig , so it doesn't get rig-amortis and harden in a weird configuration.

#46 psycheholic

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 09:36 PM

You could even build a rack to hold multiple milking rigs at once. That way you can set it and forget it, making sure all excess moisture is drained out. Good stuff man.

#47 hyphaenation

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 01:25 AM

Lunchbag Let-down

Well , just as I feared the aquarium plastic tubing did not stand up to even 5 psi pressure cooking. Damn , imagine 15 psi ... Well , so much for using what's around the house. Now i've changed gears and headed down to the hardware store for a pair of laundry water-line connections that would be much more PC'able. At the same time I am going to use a proper drill-press and appropriate bit and drill proper holes in the jar lids. The ones I did were done with small cutters and done crudely. This is the kind of project you need to make high-heat resistant equipment , to do that I need proper round holes and also proper 3/4 inch threaded connectors that will be super-glued into the lid and then covered with a thin layer of silicone to seal.

For tonight , and to save a bummer situation I decided to use the coveted glass gallon jar with bottom-holed drain-spicket with button (its a lemonade jar style). I washed it well with hot soapy water , drained , and refilled with light bleached water , then drained and rinsed. Then I partially filled the jar with store-bought water. Covered the drain spiget and lid with double tinfoil layer and PC'd for 45 minutes at 5 pci. Inside my glove-bag I will transfer 3 jars of colonized popcorn into the milking jar , swirl , shake and drain into a store-bought water bottle 1/3 pre-filled. When I fill the water bottle with mycelium-water I will set it aside and set out to build proper PC'able jar lid adapters. I know what i need to do , but its going to take a bit of work to manifest it. Once its in place and working , it will be reusable many times.

I'll update later tonight with the gallon jar milking update.

Edited by hyphaenation, 05 January 2013 - 01:44 AM.


#48 ConsciousFeeder

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 01:56 AM

Awesome. Sad that the tubing didn't hold up but you'll find something that'll work and when it does it'll be a pretty damn convenient myco tool.

#49 hyphaenation

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 02:22 AM

Thanks for the support. I know I'm close , but I just need to sort out PC'able connections that are tight and sealed , hopefully in the next 48 hours. I still have a few jars to test-milk. By tonight I will have a large water bottle of myc-water and the extra I will freeze in a plastic rubbermaid drink bottle and freeze it to test for freeze/thaw/later use.

I'm kind of a fan of making a thread on the fly and making/correcting mistakes in-thread rather than doing everything behind scenes and only presenting the finished/working product.

I'll grab pics tonight of the gallon jar milking.

Edited by hyphaenation, 05 January 2013 - 02:44 AM.


#50 ConsciousFeeder

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 03:13 AM

What comes to mind is an external water cooler that I had a while back that had these nice male and female connectors that wouldn't let any liquid through the tube or heatsink if they weren't plugged into each other.

Something like these might work for you if you can find one that has a wide internal diameter. They are parts for PC water cooling so probably don't have a large enough diameter for your needs. But if you can find some metal ones it would be perfect. But not an immediate solution.

http://www.ebay.com/...8932#vi-content

Just found these http://www.colder.co...9/Products.aspx

http://www.freshwate...s-fittings.aspx

Just some ideas hyph :love:

Edited by ConsciousFeeder, 05 January 2013 - 03:26 AM.


#51 hyphaenation

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 04:38 AM

Despite my disappointment , I did manage to milk my first couple liters of thick mycelium-milk ....

The gallon glass jar with spiget proved to work pretty good. Not ideal , but better than nothing/failure.

 

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:44 PM.


#52 hyphaenation

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:37 PM

My kingdom for a retaining washer ... or locknut !

It's frustrating because I've been through all my gear and to two hardware/building supply places and I got everything I need to properly make the milker , including:

- 3/4 inch connector hot water tank heavy duty hosing
- 3/4 inch X 3/4 brass threaded adapter
- mandible and 1 inch circular saw blade
- gorilla glue and a different waterproof expoxy

The 1 inch round saw blade cut perfect holes , a thousand times better than my attempt at using snips. I can easily make a dozen perfect holes in 5 minutes. The best part is the 3/4 inch threaded brass threaded perfectly with it. The problem comes in the fact that nothing sinches the deal , nothing to do the final tighten-down.

I'd rather wait and get the proper equipment than fuck around and try just guerrilla the lid to the 3/4 adapter. I'll probably use glue and/or silicone under the retaining washer when I get them , but I don't want to use inferior methods at this point.

My plan is to drive 2 hour return trip to nearest big town and hopefully find either the washer or locknuts. Once I get them I will be golden for absolutely tight connections that can withstand PC'ing and the stress of having a milking tube attached to it and also being PC'd and moved around.

This ring is like my precious right now ... me wants it. Me needs it.

When I do get some , I am off to the milking races.

Meanwhile I drained to 2 liters of mycelium-water i milked last night down to one liter by taking only the bottom half after letting it settle. Now I have a bottle of extremely thick mycelium water 2/3's full that I have put in the freezer on its side (so when it starts to settle it freezes with an even amount of myc down the side for when you go to thaw X amount of CC's.

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Edited by hyphaenation, 05 January 2013 - 11:04 PM.


#53 deepfried

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 02:31 AM

Hyph, I'm really enjoying this thread. I'm anxious to see how your ideas play out.

It seems to me that you will need some type of pressure relief for the 2 jars participation in the liquid transfer. The doner jar is likely to create a negative pressure and the receiver jar will experience an increase in pressure. It is conceivable that the liquid will not fully transfer without some sort of pressure equalization between the 2 jars.

I also think that a bleach bath of the transfer tube would adequately sterilize it. I doubt that it is necessary to PC it.

An issue I dealt with several times was with too much liquid in my grain jars inviting bacterial contamination. I'll be interested in seeing if your setup allows enough moisture to drain out. I don't think it is as much of an issue with a pint or smaller size jar due to faster colonization times. I have always used quart size jars and lost a lot of them until I started adding a bit of dry vermiculite. I'll also add that the issue with too much moisture was with WBS and popcorn. I don't have that issue with grass seed. I don't see grass seed as being a good candidate for this process.

I offer my opinions for discussion purposes only. I am just a self taught student with much less experience than you.

#54 Erkee

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 12:55 PM

if you like smaller hardware maybe look to lamp parts: threaded lamp rod comes in brass too
gets you through surfaces, allows lock nuts either side, teflon tape to seal and it withstands pc temps
and nuts are thin/compact.

with brass threaded rod you could solder in copper tube nipples, then leave the hose off during PC and quickly push on your bleach-cleaned hose - there is a hose for every copper tube, i usually go 1/16" smaller on the hose size to give a tighter seal - requires hot water prep: hose-end in hot water for a minute and then quickly work it on to the copper, it shrinks back a bit but gives a snug fit thereafter.

you could even make silicone stoppers for the hose then put a small amount of bleach or bottle cleaner (brewers store) into the hose and cap it.. would probably want a sterile rinse before use.. :special:

Edited by Erkee, 06 January 2013 - 01:06 PM.


#55 hyphaenation

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 08:54 PM

Thanks for the insightful help. I appreciate the comments. Originally I thought of just bleach water soaking the milking equipment , but I started down the path of making it sterlizable and now there's no turning back at the moment. I made the journey to the city and got some 3/4 inch lock-nuts. They fit perfect , so I made up some lids with perfect holes and threaded the lid on to the brass fitting , applied some guerilla glue and then screwed and tightened the lock-nut. This snugged things up amazingly tight. Lastly I applied a layer of super-glue (waterproof) on the top of the lid where it threads.

Now things are drying and by tomorrow I feel confident the equipment will be durable and functional.

Stay tuned.

 

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:45 PM.


#56 hyphaenation

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:44 PM

The G2G agar-jar reloads are getting close to done.

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These are the jars I'm going to milk in the morning.

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:46 PM.

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#57 hyphaenation

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 11:20 PM

Mycelium space-alien hand ...

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Also looks kind of like a wise old bird.

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:46 PM.


#58 hyphaenation

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:09 AM

The new milking rig is finished now.

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Will let it cure till tomorrow before trying it out.

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If this one works I'll make some more milker-lids the same way.

Feeling good about the high heat resistant hot-water tank hosing. It has the good 3/4 hookups , plus the hole in the inner tube is fat which should allow for decent pouring.

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Edited by hyphaenation, 03 December 2014 - 07:47 PM.


#59 hyphaenation

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:04 PM

Milking update:

I did my first full-fledged milking ... The milking-rig stood up to 5 psi for 30 minutes and was piping hot when it came out. I let that and the jar of clean water attached to it cool down fully (outside). Once it was cooled I took all the jars into the glove-bag and wiped each one with an alcohol-soaked cloth to clean them.

First up was the colonized 10 CC jar of popcorn. I took its lid off and slid the milker on it in one fluid motion , then placed its old lid in a small tub and closed the lid. Tightened the band on the milker-lid. Ready for lift-off !

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I lifted the water jar and it poured into the broken up popcorn , it flowed great. Then I shook vigorously , let stand and shook again. When I went to pour the water back into its original jar there was a hold up. It wouldn't flow but for a trickle. It was those stainless steel mesh screens I had put in , so removed both and soaked the milkers in bleach water.

When I hooked it all back up and poured it flowed much better , but especially at a certain angle that allowed air-bubbles to burp up.

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After each milking there was more and more mycelium in the collection jar.

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After milking three jars and draining them well , I was left with a thick soup of mycelium-milk. Now its time to hook-up the sterilized jars and super-inoculate them ...

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Each jar is flooded and then drained well. Lastly after all the extra moisture is out they are rolled around to spread things out evenly.

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All done milking and super-inoculating. Now I have:

- Original flooded jars of 5 & 10 CC to recolonize
- New popcorn jars that were flooded
- New amaranth jars that were flooded
- Jar of left-over heavy-myc milk

I set all the jars in a warm place to colonize. The milk I set aside in a cold place until I decide what to do with it. I already have a liter jug of milk from the first pull with the big jar that is now frozen. I'll thaw that out in a month or so and try a test bach and stick back in the freezer. Also I froze a thick mycelium-water syringe to try the same.

First run was epic. A few things went wrong and now I know for next time. I'm very interested in seeing how the large jars of milked grain recover and how long it takes compared to normal.

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Edited by hyphaenation, 04 December 2014 - 06:07 PM.

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#60 hyphaenation

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 01:09 PM

Nano-Milkers

Well I was happy with my first test batch of milking and super-inoculating , there were a few things that didn't pan out and caused me down-time , like the 2 hour drive to get lock-nuts and the scrapped rubber hose/caps and the time it took to mess around trying. I couldn't help but think it could be done easier , as it is its kind of a rigamarole and I doubt many would give it a try.

I kept going back to making the lids work as is ... so I gave myself a challenge. Come up with the best design for a mycelium milker with only these three parts:

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I literally have hundreds of both these items laying around different parts of my house , so i took a few moments , sat down after smoking a joint and contemplated. Firstly I decided to drill clean holes in the lid with a metal drill bit.

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After I drilled the holes , I took the rings in my hand and examined them and thought , what if I super-epoxy the two rings together back to back. I already had some good epoxy that is both water-proof and good for metal so I mixed that up as per direction , scratched the ring with a butter knife and applied it liberally to the top of both rings evenly and wearing surgical gloves (very important to keep that shit off you) I placed one ring on to the other. On top of that I placed a jar for weight and filled it with water.

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The next morning I was ready for a test and I hooked it up to a jar of water and the other end on an empty jar.

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My first Nano-Milker

It works perfectly ! I'm really stoked.

Now I feel a bit dumb for wasting all that time , but you live and learn on the fly. Now I can make up many pairs of mycelium-milkers of different sizes (I use two types of jar wide and not).

The way you get the milker lid on and off is like how you do G2G transfers ... take one lid off and set in clean dish while you place the milker on , tighten it down. Now take the lid off the water jar and in the same motion place the milker with G2G jar upside down on top of it and tighten the band. You just tighten each band independently but don't torque one band against the other.

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Now you flood the G2G jar with the water , mix , shake and flip it back into the milk catching jar. Presto , you have mucho mycelium water.

I'll use these new milkers in the next round when the grains I have grow in and keep you posted.

Couple points about the milkers:

- must use epoxy that is waterproof and good for metal
- scratch surface of ring-band before applying epoxy
- apply epoxy liberally on both band tops
- let dry properly
- snug each band to the jar tightly , but using its own band , don't wrench the top one to tighten the bottom or vice versa
- have clean "dummy" lids that are used to cap jars that just came off the milker

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Edited by hyphaenation, 04 December 2014 - 06:11 PM.





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