i have tried no-till by topping the ground with compost and planting, mulching, liquid feeding. and it's good.
not much compost ready this year, haven't started the wormery for castings, nor the mulcher to prepare their food, nor has the buggery been built, nor the snail feeder and bee homes. but that will come for their winter.
agar pods too ?
this tiller is a compromise to somehow satisfy friends, family and neighbours who feel tilling is necessary.
and it's a solution to not having the foresight to mulch a garden area last fall with leaves, to 'redirect' the vitality of some existing plants which may be displaced to grow staples for my tummy.
nature has bounty this year and still much time to take what is 'unneeded' lol
the swizzel stick works but could be improved.
here's the 'tiller part':
- the heavy pipe described in post#2 had an earlier life as hand railing,
- it has a 2" x 4" x 1/4"rectangular attachment plate welded onto the end of the 30" portion of bent pipe . it closes the pipe end. it also works nicely as a hand plate when shoving the long portion of bar under the compost pile.
- the attachment plate has two 1/2" holes
- these holes are 2-1/2" from centre to centre in line with the pipe in an 'o O o' or 'hole pipe hole' arrangement.
- through the 1/2" holes i inserted and bolted 1/2" threaded rod so that one rod protruded 3" below the plate and the other rod protruded 4-1/2"
- the rods are parallel to each other and the 30" pipe side
- makes hole about 5-1/2" diameter, 5" deep.
- when rotated at the pipe bend the longer bolt did maintain centring while the shorter bolt acted as 'drag cutter' or 'lift cutter' depending on direction of rotation.
- when used as 'lift cutter' small rocks could be lifted or pried out.
- a difference in bolt length of one and one half inches seemed adequate to maintain centring and provided some decentring ability when a larger rock was encountered.
in unrooted soil:
- rotation and churning was easily achieved, very light muscle work.
- speed was about 1 r.p.s.,
- an inch or so depth per revolution
in heavily rooted soil
- rotation could be muscular and fast or easy and slower,
- old surface vegetation was pulled in and wound on the parallel tines
- soil was more compacted.
- counter rotation somewhat loosened the wound-up vegetation but still required hand removal or a quick tap to remove.
things i will change:
- change bolt lengths to 4-1/2" & 6"( deeper easier )
- increase spacing between parallel tines from 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" or 4" ( wider holes) ,
- heavier bolts, 5/8.. ( durability / longevity / pry strength for rocks )
- hammer the bolts flat and add temper so springy and more knife-like ( reduce friction by cutting
rather than mashing )
Edited by Erkee, 25 May 2014 - 08:43 PM.