87 replies to this topic

[wharfrat]

Disclaimer: I do not claim this tek as mine. Parts or all this tek have been found on the internet. Although perfected by me through trial and error.

 

 

Coco Coir substrate with coffee supplement.  A 4 part series.

 

Part 1:  Substrate

This tek as written will yield 8+ quarts of substrate

 

Things you will need

1 brick of coco coir (brick only, do not use the bags, they contain an antifungal)

1 cup used coffee grounds (they must be used, fresh are very acidic)

1 gallon of boiling water

Approximately 3tbs of pickling lime (calcium hydroxide), (optional but highly recommended)                     

Vermiculite (optional but highly recommended)

5 gallon bucket with lid

Large oven bags (optional)

Medical or micro pore tape (optional)

 

 

Getting started

Place the brick of coir, one cup of coffee and lime, in the 5 gallon bucket.

 

 

Pour 1 gallon of boiling water in the bucket, cover tight with lid and let sit 15 minutes.

 

 

After 15 minutes you will want to break up the brick of coir that has swollen about 3 times its size, mix well to get coffee and lime mixed. Cover tight with lid and let sit 1 hour.

 

 

 

After 1 hour, mix the sub as good as you can, making sure to get the edges of the bucket, the lime and coffee like to settle. At this point I like to check the PH of the sub just to give the mycelium the best possible chance. 7.5 is optimal. This sub is at 7.0 which is minimum but I will go with it. To raise PH, just add a little more lime, let sit for 20 minutes then recheck.

I am using a $10 PH meter, they work great just take a sample of sub, wet it till it’s a bit muddy, this will give you the most accurate reading

 

 

Check for field capacity (proper amount of water retention) when a handful of sub is squeezed and only a small amount of water runs out is perfect, if too wet add vermiculite until desired field capacity. I used 1 pint of vermiculite in this batch.

 

 

Ok, sub is ready to either be pasteurized or sterilized. I will be sterilizing this batch, but the prep in a cooking bag will be the same either way.

 

First fill your sub into an oven cooking bag, squeeze all the air out and use the tie provided to seal the top.

 

 

Now we want to make steam vent holes. I cut a few holes and cover with micro-pore or cloth medical tape, this will help the bag vent but not allow water or bad guys to get in. Now PC or oven pasteurize.

 

 

I’m gonna drop this guy in my PC @ 15psi for 90 mins. I put a small plate on the top of the bag so it won’t plug the PC vent.

 

 

                                 

 

Cont. Part 2 Fruiting Chamber (Dub Tub style)

Edited by AGAMA, 13 December 2014 - 05:36 PM.

[wharfrat]

Dub Tub fruiting chamber part 2 of 4

 

Part 2:  Fruiting chamber

This tek as written will make (4) 6 quart shoebox tubs @ 2:1 ratio

Things you will need

4 quarts of colonized spawn

8 quarts of substrate (see part 1)

(8) 6 quart shoebox tubs (tubs from Walmart or dollar stores for $1)

1 Large plastic trash bag for tub liner

Aluminum foil

Micro-pore or cloth medical tape

 

Getting Started

First thing we need to do is cut the trash bag down to fit the tubs. I found the large plastic trash bags will give me 4 equal rectangles that are large enough to go into the tub.

 

 

The bags straight off the roll or out of the box are fairly sterile, but a quick wipe with an alcohol wipe isn’t a bad idea, at least the side that will be touching the substrate. Tuck the plastic into the tubs.

 

 

Now we will fill the tubs with the substrate. I like to use my hands (gloved) and grab handfuls and equally distribute it between each 4 tubs.

 

 

Add 1 quart of spawn per tub, break up the spawn as well as possible then mix thoroughly into substrate, making sure to get in the corners.

 

 

Trim the liner down to 1-2” above sub level, do not tape. I use a small pair of scissors, it gets easier the more you do.

 

 

After, lightly level out the top of the sub making it as uniform as possible without packing it. We want it light and airy and even to promote the best possible pinset

 

 

Cover the tubs with foil. Make 4 holes in the foil for air exchange and cover the holes with micro-pore tape.

 

 

Into the incubator they go, until completely colonized, this usually takes approximately 10 days. I recommend not to open the tub until the 10 day mark, as not to introduce contaminants before the mycelium has the chance to run the whole sub.

 

After 10 days, this is what they look like

 

 

Cont. Part 3 Casing 50/50+ tek (optional) part 3 of 4

Edited by wharfrat, 12 December 2014 - 08:13 PM.

[wharfrat]

Casing 50/50+ tek(optional) part 3 of 4

 

Part 3:  Casing

This tek as written will make 1 ½ quarts of casing material. Casing a sub will keep much needed moisture close to the surface to help with a nice pinset and subsequent flushes. The oyster shells will keep the casing airy and help buffer the PH of the sub/casing. The pickling lime is a must to raise the PH of the very acidic peat moss.

 

Things you will need

1 pint of Spagnum Peat Moss

1 pint of Course/med vermiculite

1 cup Crushed oyster shell

Pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) NOT Optional!

Water

 

Getting Started

Add all the ingredients together and mix thoroughly, and a small amount of water at a time while checking for field capacity. Once field capacity is reached, we need to check PH level, our target range 7.0 – 8.0, 7.5 being optimum. Keep adding lime until desired PH level is obtained. Remember to check the casing with a very wet sample. Once optimum, you can load the casing into quart jars or over bag and PC @ 15psi for 90 mins.

 

 

Applying casing

You want to sprinkle the casing over the top of the colonized substrate. We want it to be light and airy. Do not spread it on like peanut butter, just spinkle it.

 

 

 

 

Cont. Part 4 Fruiting

Edited by wharfrat, 01 November 2016 - 07:53 PM.

[wharfrat]

Fruiting: Dub Tub mist and fan part 4a of 4a-4b

 

Part 4:  Fruiting

This tek as written will make (4) 6 quart shoebox tubs @ 2:1 ratio

 

Things you will need

The remaining (4) 6 quart tubs, for lids

Spray bottle

Spring or Distilled water (a lot of tap water has chlorine and fluoride, I recommend against it)

Patience

 

Getting Started

Now that our tubs have colonized 100% it is time to put them into fruiting conditions. We will lower the temp, give them some ambient light and fresh air. Start by removing and discarding the foil lid and simply place the other tub on top, making a mini greenhouse. You will want to lightly mist and fan 3 or more times a day. Within 1 to 2 weeks you should begin to see the fruits of your labor.

 

 

 

 

Fruiting: Zombie Tubs part 4b of 4a-4b

These are set and forget tubs good for those busy people. A casing is highly recommended.

 

Part 4:  Fruiting

This tek as written will make (4) 6 quart shoebox tubs @ 2:1 ratio

 

Things you will need

The remaining (4) 6 quart tubs, for lids

Polyfil (for FAE filter)

Duct Tape or equivalent

Oscillating fan

Casing Material (see part 3)

 

Getting Started

First we will need to modify our tubs, I suggest doing this prior to spawning so you don’t have to work around the sub. Make 2, 1” holes on both long sides of the bottom tub just above sub level.

 

 

Now make 2, 1” holes in the upper tub, close to the top. Stuff all holes with a ball of polyfil, try not to make them to tight, light n fluffy is what we want.

 

 

Now it’s time to seal them up, give the upper tub a good misting then place it on top of lower and completely seal the two halves with tape.

 

In order for this tek to work we need air flow in the room the tubs are located, we will use an oscillating fan for this. The fan will run constantly 24/7. Place the fan away from the tubs, other side of room if possible. Do not point directly at tubs, but rather have it oscillate and just glance the tubs as it goes back n forth. This will give the needed FAE. Keep tubs closed until ready to harvest.

Edited by wharfrat, 12 December 2014 - 08:26 PM.

[Microbe]

Wow! Very nice right up Wharfrat.

[Vikings333]

Great thanks for the step by step details! Can I oven pasteurize all the sub in turkey tins? And also what about a cup of castings for a little boost?

[wharfrat]

Great thanks for the step by step details! Can I oven pasteurize all the sub in turkey tins? And also what about a cup of castings for a little boost?

yes on the turkey tins.. my only concern would be keeping it clean until ready for use. the oven bags are sealed, so you can actually let them sit for a few days if needed. As far as the ewc, i don't see why not, i have never used them. when it comes to nutes, more is not always better, too much and your spawn won't run, or take longer to colonized, risking the chance of contamination.

Edited by AGAMA, 12 December 2014 - 11:11 PM.

[wharfrat]

Here is a tip: Breaking coir bricks into smaller portions.

 

split the brick through the side lengthwise, as pictured below..

[wharfrat]

Wow! Very nice right up Wharfrat.

thank you brother.. i'm glad to contribute.

[Vikings333]

What's the plastic bag for? How do I fit it in without covering up the holes?

[torn2bits]

Awesome pictorial & confidence booster for any one starting out in bulk.
Great contribution

[wharfrat]

What's the plastic bag for? How do I fit it in without covering up the holes?

the plastic bag is a liner, so when the sub shrinks the liner stays attached to the sub, therefor not allowing the sides and bottom of the sub to be exposed to much air, keeping evaporation down, reducing fruiting in those areas and only out the top of the sub. Better for killer flushes... thanks for asking, i will post this in the tek.

[BlackPeter17]

What is the average weight u pull off these per quart of spawn? And how is the potency say as compared to BRF cakes or to manure based subs?

[wharfrat]

What is the average weight u pull off these per quart of spawn? And how is the potency say as compared to BRF cakes or to manure based subs?

average for 3 flushes is around 80g dry, but i have had upwards of 100g.. i've had 1 flush way 64g dry, subsequent flushes are usually around 20g dry..

I would say one can expect to get 25g dry per flush easily with out the casing.. with the casing you can squeaze out a bit more

 

potency has many factors.. this sub is not one of them.. just as potent as any other way you can grow.

 

oh and genetics play a role is weight also, some mush are more dense, some really hollow

Edited by wharfrat, 13 December 2014 - 04:24 PM.

[Vikings333]

Just spawned and made some new lids with silicone and tyvek for my next round of seed that is hydrating now :) question about LC.. Is it worth trying with a syringe tht came with my spores? I don't know the gauge looks thick enough to scum up my lc..

[wharfrat]

Just spawned and made some new lids with silicone and tyvek for my next round of seed that is hydrating now :) question about LC.. Is it worth trying with a syringe tht came with my spores? I don't know the gauge looks thick enough to scum up my lc..

you can.. 18 gauge is typical.. but 16 is better.. you might have to break up the mycelium a little bit by shaking.. what i try and do is suck some in then blow it back out, this tends to break it up a little bit with out disturbing the blob too much

[Vikings333]

The lc worked great! All 8 jars have considerable amounts of growth and tons of independent mycilium blotches. But... The jar is now seemingly contained. The once suspended mycilium is not floating and clumped together on the surface..Next round I'll use silicone injection ports.

[wharfrat]

for the doubters... Lipa Yai on coir/coffee sub

[Heirloom]

wharf , that's one awesome flush. beautiful.

[peacefrog]

Awesome! I never had much luck with coir. I don't know why, but never did. I always got better flushes with straw or a combination of straw/poop. Great flush, great write up.