50 replies to this topic

[TurkeyRanch]

I currently have 42 quarts of 50/50 wbs/oats inocculated with Texas Yellow Cap Cubensis, and I still have grain left over (ran out of jars) destined for the freezer.

Freezer? You need some chickens. Or spawn bags.

Have you frozen hydrated grain before with success? My initial thought is that it might lyse some or the cells, making the grain mushy.

Edited by TurkeyRanch, 26 May 2015 - 10:51 AM.

[Microbe]

I currently have 42 quarts of 50/50 wbs/oats inocculated with Texas Yellow Cap Cubensis, and I still have grain left over (ran out of jars) destined for the freezer.

Freezer? You need some chickens. Or spawn bags.

Have you frozen hydrated grain before with success? My initial thought is that it might lyse some or the cells, making the grain mushy.

I have frozen hydrated grain successfully. I posted it somewhere here at myctopia. I am wanting to try freeze steralized grain and see how that works. Man that would be nice to have a deep freezer full of steralized spawn. Thaw, inoculate and incubate. I have 1 bag in the freezer now and will pull it out in 90 days and see what happens. Of course i will need to this several times for it to be considered viable option for me.

[TurkeyRanch]

I know people do it with BRF cakes with success. I am curious how it works for you. As long as the container is well sealed I don't see why it wouldn't work on sterile spawn if it works on hydrated grain. Congratulations on the house, BTW!

[happy4nic8r]

I have wbs, corn, and brf/verm, all hydrated and in the freezer for two months as a trial.

 

I used brf/verm before, and it worked amazingly just as well as fresh, why wouldn't it?

 

Now the whole grains, I was amazed they are almost like unsoaked, but when they thaw, that will be the question.

 

Maybe mushy?

 

Next month, like Microbe says, 90 days.

[Microbe]

I know people do it with BRF cakes with success. I am curious how it works for you. As long as the container is well sealed I don't see why it wouldn't work on sterile spawn if it works on hydrated grain. Congratulations on the house, BTW!

Well we lost the bidding war to a investor but we put another offer in yesterday on a other one. We will keep bidding until we get one. Im going the fixer upper route making it a investment with potential profit several years from now. Thanks though TR.

The frozen hydrated spawn was only in the freezer for 30 days and it did make the grains a lot more wet then im used to working with, probably from the water expanding and coming out of the grain. I had to dry it for a few minutes in the oven to get rid of the excess moisture before steralizing. I wont be able to do this with steralized grain but im going to check it out. This is one of those things that if it worked the masses would already being doing i think. I will update ya with the results.

[Microbe]

I have wbs, corn, and brf/verm, all hydrated and in the freezer for two months as a trial.

I used brf/verm before, and it worked amazingly just as well as fresh, why wouldn't it?

Now the whole grains, I was amazed they are almost like unsoaked, but when they thaw, that will be the question.

Maybe mushy?

Next month, like Microbe says, 90 days.

My grains (oats) were not mushy. Now i prep them in a way that leaves a soft but solid core or just a tad dry. Like you stated 90' days would be a good timeline to gauge this by.

[Cue]

 

I currently have 42 quarts of 50/50 wbs/oats inocculated with Texas Yellow Cap Cubensis, and I still have grain left over (ran out of jars) destined for the freezer.

Freezer? You need some chickens. Or spawn bags.

Have you frozen hydrated grain before with success? My initial thought is that it might lyse some or the cells, making the grain mushy.

 

EVer notice how when bread has been frozen that it doesn't seem to mold?

Just an observation

 

I've always mixed the frozen grains in with newly hydrated grains, and it has always seemed OK.

[Microbe]

I have 2 pints of steralized grain under my flowhood that have been there for over 2 weeks. I got burned out inoculating spawn bags one evening and didnt feel like cutting up agar( pints are for masters and inly receive agar plugs) and they smell fine and look ok. Im going to inoculate them Friday making it over 3 weeks they would have sat there. I think frozen steralized grain will work.

If it does then the wife can spend her evenings running the PC and filling up a deep freezer. How awesome would that be to just pull out a bag of spawn the night before to let it thaw then inoculate it.

[Microbe]

I was running a little low on WBS so I bought a bag of Oats to add to it so I would have enough for a large jar run.
50# bag of racing horse whole (they also had cracked) oats cost $14.95.
Better than paying almost $20.00 for a 40# bag of WBS, especially since the oats expand more.

I currently have 42 quarts of 50/50 wbs/oats inocculated with Texas Yellow Cap Cubensis, and I still have grain left over (ran out of jars) destined for the freezer. Where as, usually I would have not gotten more than 35 jars out of what seems to be the same amount of pure WBS.

I didn't use any pickling lime or even rinse the grain and I still didn't have any clumping issues even when I left one run to cool over night in the PC.

Next Cubensis jar run will be 100% Oats done with Cue's steep tek.

Hopefully everything will work out good, so I will be able to try the oats with Pans later this summer.

If you never have tried Oata then you may have noticed that they swell about 50% after a 2 hour steep while WBS, at least the kind i used, expanded maybe 15%. This is relevant as not only are Whole Oats cheaper, they also give you more mileage pound for pound when measured by volume.

[Cue]

 

If you never have tried Oata then you may have noticed that they swell about 50% after a 2 hour steep while WBS, at least the kind i used, expanded maybe 15%. This is relevant as not only are Whole Oats cheaper, they also give you more mileage pound for pound when measured by volume.

 

Exactly my point.

[Microbe]

I spawned 2 mini monos at 2:6 ratio 50/50 coir/straw and 1 66 quart 10:20 also 50/50 coir straw. All 3 Yexas Yellow Cap clone.

I also spawned a 66 quart tote using same ratios as the first of another b+ culture i have. This one i think will produce better then my last one. I will never discuss weights here so please take no offense.

Spawned Monday and wrapped shrink wrap around them again. These are all no hole monos other then a few 1/8" diameter holes for air tubing. The eazyfelt observed was the filter i left as a backer when filling the existing holes hot glue and that got stuck and cant be removed without pulling out my glue plugs. I removed the filters and used micropore tape as a nacker on the other tub

Im curious to see how this works and if it is subpar i can easily push the glue plugs out and go back to the 6 hole design and use a fan for FAE. Im always trying to find improvements in FAE and this coukd be a waste of my time but we will see. I will update with pics throughout the whole process this time. I lost 15 quarts of spawn because once again i missed the seal on the bags and air had gotten into them and some green showed up;) but i will figure these F'ing bags out eventually.

Stay tuned.

Edited by Microbe77, 27 May 2015 - 09:20 PM.

[Microbe]

Love oats... to eat, for agar and spawn! The first no soak/simmer grain tek I remember is Fahsters "Quick step rye" tek. Good stuff. Excellent writeup 77!https://mycotopia.ne...-step-rye-prep/.

Hyph man i have see your archives but will you please show us something a little current. You know mybe a single cake? I would love to see a single mini mono from you. It goes a long way when mods break out their shell ans drop a bomb. Either way i appreciate you a lot as you have given me words of encouragement for a lo g time now :)

[hyphaenation]

Sorry Microbe, wasn't trying to offend you by posting Fahster's no-soak prep from the archives. Just giving a hats off to him.

And a grow challenge... oh my. I guess your right and I haven't been contributing enough grow threads. Gotta pull my weight... I have a good one in mind that may even impress you if all goes well. I'll dust off my prints and get right on it.

Edited by hyphaenation, 29 May 2015 - 07:04 AM.

[happy4nic8r]

Hyph, I never used to appreciate you, almost cringed when I saw you had replied to a posting, but I have to say, whatever link you have to the archives and can pull up those at the drop of a hint.

 

I have no such link to the archives and can't find anything twice. Do you save the links somewhere? Is that possible on this site? Do you do it on your computer?

 

You don't have to prove your grow-ability to me, I have seen it, and if a person wants to stand back and add helpful commentary and links, thats just fine with me.

[Mycomaniac2007]

You kinda get to know were things are if you scan them enough.. I rember the old format that was a bunch of lines.. very simple but not as amusing to surf. Every week or so I try to go through a bunch of the old links in thr archives just to re fresh my brain with things.. looking for a few select usernames is key when searching... But theres alot in there

Edited by Mycomaniac2007, 29 May 2015 - 11:20 AM.

[Mycomaniac2007]

Ohh and microbe.. you stated a few small holes for tubing in the no hole mono. Air pump , could you explain just curious if your doing this totally no air exchange or just a different route, thanks

I ask just because ive gone the pump route with an exchanged filter with good success. This was in a shotgun that were stacked so I was trying to find a way to not lift everything when giving air, turns out if I plugged up most of the holes with hit glue except the front and had the tubes ran into the back it worked great after a bit of tweaking. This was Pans so there was def enough air exchange.

I actually ran one tube into my mono from the top also.. it did have poly holes but I never fanned the tub except the couple times I mist the substrate. Never had a fan , just ran it on a timer but I didnt want to dry things out so I removed the tube most of the time.

Edited by Mycomaniac2007, 29 May 2015 - 11:28 AM.

[happy4nic8r]

I need to get some of those inline HEPA filters. 

 

My pump was bubbled through a stone in water container so I had air and misting without removing the cover.

 

Somehow the whole thing got contaminated, and my guess is that the air filter I put on the intake of the pump wasn't fine enough.

[Microbe]

Sorry Microbe, wasn't trying to offend you by posting Fahster's no-soak prep from the archives. Just giving a hats off to him.

And a grow challenge... oh my. I guess your right and I haven't been contributing enough grow threads. Gotta pull my weight... I have a good one in mind that may even impress you if all goes well. I'll dust off my prints and get right on it.

No offense. I wasnt challanging as i know you can grow. nice to see when admins share grows. It makes me feel safer posting here(builds trust around site security) and its fresh illustrations to your teachings. Same text book just updated version. I didnt challange you Hyphenation but im damn sure looking forward to your grow now! ;)

[Microbe]

Ohh and microbe.. you stated a few small holes for tubing in the no hole mono. Air pump , could you explain just curious if your doing this totally no air exchange or just a different route, thanks

I ask just because ive gone the pump route with an exchanged filter with good success. This was in a shotgun that were stacked so I was trying to find a way to not lift everything when giving air, turns out if I plugged up most of the holes with hit glue except the front and had the tubes ran into the back it worked great after a bit of tweaking. This was Pans so there was def enough air exchange.

I actually ran one tube into my mono from the top also.. it did have poly holes but I never fanned the tub except the couple times I mist the substrate. Never had a fan , just ran it on a timer but I didnt want to dry things out so I removed the tube most of the time.

Sorry i wasnt clear when i said no hole mono. Im still going to provide FAE but im going to use it via airpump with no holes in the tubs other then the 2 for the airlines pumping in fresh dry (normal room RH) air. The stale humid air will be pushed out through the top through due to the pressure increase. Im seeing which gives be better results. As long as im cycling the air complelty once an hour, timer 15 minutes on and 45 off, i should still get good evaporation and a good pin set. The only difference is im relying on the sub entirely to provide optimal rh. I would rather use a spray bottle a few times a day if needed then to have to clean ultrasonic humidifiers like i used to.

I dont filter my air and i did some math to calculate in minutes i would need to run the pump based on its output. I add a few minutes to compensate for bottlenecking, pressure drop and shit like or estimated i should say.

All the tubes will be the same length so that the air will have to travel the same distance from the pump to the tub or bag. In addition i can control airflow for all 32 lines that are hooked into lever operated gang valves.

Once i get it set up i will share it.

[Mycomaniac2007]

Cool now I see , I like using the dry air also as using an air stone gives me the heebie geebies with all that excess moisture. I just cut a myco filter about the size of a quarter and replace the filter on the underside of the 127 gph pump spliced two ways for each bin. Im looking forward to the results. I dont see many pple going this route and some say its trouble but it just took a bit of tweaking on my end and once its right, its fully automated. Probably not feesable for more than a few tubs thpugh. Also, Ive seen cubes grow well with minimal air exchange also but its not really ideal. I love using my automated setup.

Edit... Interesting. I never thought it would be able to support that many substrates. I'll be interested in the end result

Edited by Mycomaniac2007, 29 May 2015 - 05:09 PM.