The Botanist Files V1.0
Posted 21 September 2017 - 02:33 PM
You don't need heating mats if you germinate them indoors. Mine do well in any temperature between 15 C and 35 C. So room temperature would be fine.
Just try to make sure you have some live peat moss before you order seeds. You're going to need a patch of it for germination. It's best to have that before the seeds arrive, because time is of great essence. I've had seeds germinate after 60+ days, but the survival rate is absurdly low.
Something I've noticed, that would probably help the survival rate of these youngsters, is that directly after a root starts penetrating the husk, it's best to put the seeds in to the soil. Otherwise the plant will adjust to low-nutrient levels, and it will burn when you put it in a soil medium afterwards. The husk will drop off of the seedling on its own, but if it takes more than 2 weeks, it's best to operate with a fine scalpel and give it a hand. Coca seedlings have a very peculiar transparant-ish layer around the seed edge, which helps you find the area to slice. But lets not get ahead of that, the natural way will work just fine. I think I've described a soil mix, somewhere on these botanist files. The only addition I can make it to use 7% coco peat, and some clay. Other than that: peat, peat moss, and a dash of regular potting soil will do fine. pH should be around 5-6, not much higher. With that, I mean the actual pH of the soil. Watering should be done with the same pH, but if your soil is around 7, your plants will die. That's why the peat is so important. Basically the same principle as with blueberries. They just need acidic soil, otherwise their natural state doesn't allow proper nutrient uptake.
With all these things in mind, you'll be good to go.
@Spooner: that seems like a lot of back breaking work, but clay is good soil none the less. The Netherlands basically thrived on it; we pumped out the sea and marsh water, and when salt washed away, all we had left was clay. I reckon if you dig deeper, you'll find more condensed clay that doesn't fall apart that easily. But as I said; a normal soil transfer would do fine as well. We'll have to make do with whatever we can get! I'm the type that recycles every bucket of potting soil until there's no organic matter left, and then still feed it to the worms before throwing it out in the yard.
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Posted 21 September 2017 - 04:02 PM
About clay I heard that if mixed with rock dusts it can make a fine substrate, I don't recall the soil chemistry about clay but that's something I need to look into for my gardening needs.
Posted 25 September 2017 - 02:28 PM
My chemistry teacher used to say that if we could harness that power and all the secrets of clay, all of our detergents, dish washing soaps, and what not, would all be clay based instead of EDTA (which is a synthetic molecule that acts in the same way). Much like chlorofyl actually, taking up Mg2+ and safeguarding it in a mesh of carbon-hydrogen-nitrogen-atoms. EDTA is less specific though, and takes up nearly all metal ions based on the pH of a solution.
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Posted 25 September 2017 - 05:59 PM
Posted 05 October 2017 - 04:25 PM
Edited by Heirloom , 05 October 2017 - 04:26 PM.
Posted 02 November 2017 - 08:45 PM
I've only just begun to scratch the surface of thos golden journal. I'm blown away with your knowledge of Coca growing and your Canna post have really got my attention and look forward to finding out how your project with Rhianna is taking shape.
Once I'm through reading your thread I'm sure I'll have lots to ask. Top quality thread so far looking forward to the rest.
there is more spirituality in a single psychedelic plant than all the churches of the world
Posted 12 November 2017 - 01:43 PM
Posted 14 November 2017 - 02:11 PM
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Posted 04 December 2017 - 02:36 PM
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Posted 05 January 2018 - 03:24 PM
1. Add 1mL of 1mg/mL 6-bap solution to water, water plants.
2. Wait two weeks.
3. Add 1mL of 1mg/mL IBA to the water, water plants (at night).
What happens with the 6-bap? You'll get branching.. So much that the plants will most likely not grow at all, but stall instead.
What happens with the IBA? You'll get a 6-bap inhibitor, and pretty awesome growth. The branches that didn't become shoots, now become shoots.
From a solid yet flimsy stick, to a nice sized bush in 3 weeks. And no, I'm not talking about my dick, this time. This time it's about coca plants, again.
I overcame stalling tropical plants by the way, also by adding IBA to the watering solution. Completely stalled plants revitalized after epibrassinolide (0.1mg/L)+IBA (3mg/L) treatment. Some of my miracle fruit plants were no more than barren sticks, with more dead wood than alive parts due to being burned alive in the sun.. Not anymore! They are alive and kicking again.
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Posted 13 January 2018 - 11:14 AM
Forementioned hormone treatment yielded results like this:
Some meristems divided into as much as 4 unique meristems, meaning there's 3 more points of growth. This causes the plants to become 'bushy' from the first year, instead of after two or three years.
Scary leaf dropping. Then an explosion of flowers, which were left unpollinated to save energy for the revival of the plant, which is happening now. This is a novo, and not a coca (or novo x coca hybrid) like the rest. It responds a lot different to 6-bap, with strongly reduced nodal spaces and very inhibited length growth.
Coca x Novo hybrids all tend to respond in the same manner. Due to some watering and nutrient issues though, some plants have dropped their leafs and need some more time to regenerate.
On a small note, just for the people that have been wondering about growth speeds of coca.. These younger plants are close to a year old. That's an estimate at least.. I have posted pics of the berries from which they came, but lazy as I am, I don't feel like going back a few pages to check the dates. Most of these young seedlings have passed the critical stage, in a few months they'll be as indestructible as their parents. Indestructible, yes, but very, very sensitive. Sensitive women can be calmed down with a good backrub, throwing chocolate across the room and keeping some distance.. These coca plants don't care for your care.. They do whatever they want. Little rebels. I like that as much as I dislike that, because it makes diagnosing issues very hard.
Edited by JanSteen, 13 January 2018 - 11:19 AM.
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Posted 17 February 2018 - 01:24 PM
Posted 28 February 2018 - 03:51 PM
And mayby I can contribute something to it.
Clays are the finest products of weathering of aluminiumsilicate stones like granite or gneiss.
There are fat clays which consist of smaller particles which are formed let´s say like little plates-
you can think of it like if you are dripping some water on some glass slides and they stick together and are sliding well on each other (under a microscope).
This is plastic clay.
Because clay is a product of erosion and weathering different kind of oxides, minerals and other elements or particles can join the material.
Ironoxide for example causes the red colour, if there is lets say also manganese present the clay gets black (also poisonous if unburnt).
The more metaloxides and for example calciumcarbonate are present the lower the meltingpoint of clay gets.
The more pure the clay the higher the meltingpoint.
If clay is comletely dried and soaked with water again it will fall apart in the different paticles and you end with slip.
You can dehydrate that slip to a certain point and have plastic clay again. Like that its endless reuseable unless burnt.
Loam is geologically spoken a mixture of sand (bigger than 63µm), silt (bigger than 2µm) and clay (smaller than 2µm).
The particles are formed more like grains and because of that not plastic.
You can also burn loam and use like normal ceramics. I mostly use them for creating glazes.
Like what I read about akadama its more like a mixture of loam and clay or some loam with an high amount of clay.
You can make clay and loam stable by burning or high pressure - which both also occure natural.
Japan is an vulcanic island so the loam and clay there is a different than ours, much more metaloxides and minerals are contained
in secondary deposits except calciumcarbonate. This also means that more micronutrients are present which gives this Anagama the special plus of a mineral vertilizer.
What I also read in my short research about Anagama ist that burned anagama is the loam from there but not fired that high that it gets
ceramical characteristics and sinters together.
The material is only baked at a low temperature like 500 degrees.
In my experience clay or loam that low fired tend to fall apart easily if used as a dish for example.
Seramis or other bricklike material is completely different and will only fall apart by erosion, weathering, mycelium and different microorganisms.
Where I am living loam and clay is present nearly everywhere in different qualities.
Despite the loam and clay here most times are high in calciumcarbonate content, I think this could work also out well as an ph-puffer.
For the special mineral and metaloxide content of anagama it would be easy for adding them to the
loam/clay mixture before bakeing to a certain temperature. The lower burnt the material is, the faster it falls apart.
You inspired me to do some test series. It will need some time,when I get results I will post them here.
If anybody get´s an chemical anlysis of anagama that would be great!
I´m quite familiar with silicate chemistry so I could relatively easy alter the material to what we want.
I hope this excursion did not went too far to the depths of silicate techniques.
If I misspelled or used the false term please be forgiving- english is not my first language.
Edited by outoforder, 28 February 2018 - 03:57 PM.
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Posted 02 March 2018 - 10:21 AM