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Building a Solar Setup this year YIPPY!!!!!!


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#1 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 13 February 2016 - 03:44 PM

So...

 

I've been reading about solar power for about 3 years now easily. 

Read just about almost everything I can read, to the point that it makes my head spin and I finally

conclude... "I dont think i can possibly learn anything more without actually getting my hands dirty and start

plugging things in"

 

 

SOOOO

 

I have pretty much decided in going with around a 4000 watt system.

Would consist of around 8x 6v batterys that have 428aH

 

powered used is only around 1000 watts daily though, so i got a lot of extra room.

 

 

Was thinking about getting around 5x 250watt solar panels.

 

Was going to run the battery bank at 24 volt since the batteries are 6volt but maybe I can make

them into 48volt??  I know id rather do 48 volt because the conversion to AC has less lose AND

you can use smaller wires when connecting everything.

 

Of course ill be spending the funds for the top of the line MPPT charge controller.

 

This way, I can use my PV array setup for 48volts, then the MPPT will adjust the voltage according

to what is required by teh battery bank in order to charge.

Probably be going with an Outback controller.

 

Ill go with a high quality inverter also. 

ID LOVE to figure out if its possible to connect WIND in the future to the same system, maybe ill have to

add a few extra things?? but I dontknow, that area is still iffy with me, and people dont like to share to much info

regarding this kinda stuff... lol  like its a secret... assholes.  (fuck it though, ill figure it out myself and spend the money

needed during the way)

 

 

 

Im planning on making purchases REAL soon here.

But then i ran into this video that is damn intriguing and really makes me want to rethink my batteries.

 

 

new battery technology is amazing and I think it would be wise maybe to venture a little bit into these batteries.

Specially old junk laptop batteries and salvage the good cells within them.

 

 

Now i used to want to build my own PV panels, and quickly realized that for the amount of time id put into

that project and funds and the fact that it just WONT LOOK to nice and over time

the clear coating or glass finish just isnt going to be as good as a commercially bought panel.

Especially the REC panels that are made in the uSA and have a NON-REFLECTIVE finish on the glass, something

i think is important. 

 

BUT, whtn it comes to batteries, I think it might be worth making something like this youtube video below that ill post.

4k watts for a few hundred bucks... might be worth is. 

 

because one of those 420 ah batterys at 6v is 2520 watts and $350.

If i can spend 400 bucks and get 4000 some watts with a few days of my time, I think its well worth that

extra wattage considering the amount of time it will take me to make such a thing.  

Really got me thinking.

 

 

 

id imagine though, that i could probably make a home made "power wall" in the future and match the

voltage of the current battery bank i have and just add it into the loop??? but maybe not... beacuse

the cells will probably be only 2v, and the cells in the other bank would be 6v cells. 

 

^^ Thats what i mean about making my head spin a lil bit lol and why i just need to start

doing something with this so i can get some REAL WORLD DATA to actually look at and feel.

 

anyone ever make a solar setup? 

 

 

 

 

[Direct Link]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#2 Myc

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 09:37 AM

Regarding your thoughts on the inverter:

 

You will want to make sure that your inverter can receive multiple charge inputs. There will be separate input terminals for each generation source - wind, water, solar, and "alternative". These inverters are out there, you just have to research which one will most suit your needs for the cost out-lay.

 

I like Tesla's power wall too. Was thinking of pre-ordering one myself but I'm shuffling around and dragging my feet.

The advantage (it seems to me) is that when utility power is lost, the power wall will perform automatic transfer functions - isolating the utility upstream while accessing the battery storage. With existing grid inter-tie systems, when utility power is lost, the system shunts to prevent stored/generated voltages from traveling upstream onto the utility lines (leaving the end user without power until utilities are restored - regardless of battery storage). One has always been forced to choose between:

Utility grid inter-tie - power is unavailable during utility outages

or

Off-grid generation and battery storage - you may need a generator charge input for extended periods of cloudy weather so you can back-feed the system with a traditional generator in order to charge the batteries.

 

It gets complicated sometimes.



#3 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 11:51 AM

hum.. i think i forgot to add a space after my inverter comment.  

 

 

But correct me if im wrong, but isnt it the Charge Controller that I would be looking for that

has the addition input ports for .. Wind, Solar, Water, or alternative and NOT the inverter?  

 

Just wanna clear that up so others are not confused, because from what I read about battery power is...

 

Well use PV for the sack of easy convo, replace PV with water....wind or alternative(generator)

 

But you get power from the SUN that is captured by the PVs

 

the power is then taken from the PVs to the CHARGE CONTROLLER

 

from the Charge controller, the power gets put into the BATTERIES 

 

 

from teh BATTERIES the power is then sent to the INVERTER that just makes the power go from DC to appropriate AC voltage. 

(excuse to use of terms LOOSELY, just trying to keep it in the basics) 

 

 

 

 

 

or... if you have multiple power sources, WIND and SOLAR,

do these then need to be plugged into an INVERTER that is able to accept both of them, and then

that power is combined and sent to the Charge Controllers??

 

 

 

 

 

 

This will be 100% off grid,  grid tie WILL NEVER suite my needs.

(mainly because they put a 130% limit on the size of your setup in relation to your power usage records, F THAT lol

not limiting me.  I'll sell some extra power to my 2 neighbors, secretly of course, thats probably illegal MOST LIKELY...

i wiped my ass wrong today and that was probably an illegal maneuver lol)

 

The main reason im making this setup is because of my aquaponic setup, I CAN NOT have

teh power go out EVER.   ANd in my area, the power company CAN NOT(the infrastructure is too old its not possible)

give me CLEAN POWER, i get BROWN OUTS all the time and DIPS in power almost as if they are fucking with me....

I almost lost my fish last year because of a 5 hour power outage, I was forced to use a 5 gallon bucket to scoop out water

from the tank and just pour it back in to help add o2 to the water, poor fishies were all at the surface gasping for air... talk

about an erie sight when seeing ~1000 fish trying to breath AIR and not WATER... lol  

 

 

That cant happen and Im spending the funds to make sure it doesnt happen. 

It costs me $1200 a year JUST TO BE CONNECTED to the grid, that DOES NOT include the use

of ANY POWER, just flat rate 100 bucks a month for RENTING the lines and poles and meter.. RIDICULOUS !!!!!

So that right off the bat will give me $1200 EXTRA each year in order to maintenance my solar setup, whether that be

adding panels, batteries, replacing anything ETC... and IMO... 1200 a YEAR for solar system maintenance

on a 4kw setup is a SERIOUS AMOUNT OF maintenance budget... OR MAYBE NOT??? Regardless though, im going to

find out first hand and im doing it lol...

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was thinking about maybe getting some Fork Lift batteries, but the weight of those fuckers are INTENSE, talking 1000s of lbs EASY lol.

lots to consider for sure.   I do haev a machine that ill be able to move those batteries around without a problem, but still...

would haev to really build the solar shed pretty bulky 

 

 

 

 

 

[Direct Link]

 

 

great video right there.

 

Dude has 21 panels that are 250watts each.

you can see how FOGGY cloudy it is during the video and dude is making 2kw IN THE FOG..

 

So the whole, "you not gunna make power during cloudy days" is IMO... and Soon to be IME(i feel)

BULL SHIT

 

Im going to have 5-6 panels 250watts each, high end panels probably the RECs.

 

5 panels is roughly 23% of 21 panels, so lets round down to 20%.

 

Im anticipating my panels making at least 300-400 watts on a cloudy foggy day( i rounded DOWN even more)

 

 

 

 

 

I know you build Solar Setups Myc, and I knew youd be the ONLY one to comment in this thread, and Im so happy that you did.

 

I wanna knwo all your input if you so feel i deserve the time you spend typing this stuff out for me. 

If you dont think i deserve it, thats cool lol, But just know that I appreciate your input and hold it to quite a degree.

 

Plus, I always like talking electric with people and talking to people that knwo their shit, then when I actually start putting things together,

i can have a damn good ballpark idea of where I should be and what not.

 

 

:)   Its going to be venture, and I calculate around a 5000-7000 ticket venture

 

but thats going to be a 7000 ticket venture TO FREEDOM BABY!!!!!

 

 

 

Better believe im building a solar power food stand with a refrigerator on it for my mushroom sales :P  

FUCK YOU POWER GRID lol,


Edited by Il19z8rn4li1, 14 February 2016 - 02:39 PM.


#4 Myc

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 12:49 PM

I'll do my best to respond.

 

I've built and worked on several systems - and they're all different due to the changes in technology as time has passed over the last 14 years. There's something new every day.

 

That being said,

The systems I've wired use an Inverter to accept the charge inputs.

They inverted the charge inputs to ac as well as sending surplus energy through the charge controller - which regulates battery charge input - to the batteries for storage and later back-feed into the Inverter. The newer systems can combine all of these elements - making discussion complicated.

 

The big batteries are worth it. Whatever you can manage to handle. 

Keep in mind your battery storage area. It must be well (very well) ventilated. You will need to periodically, on a schedule, condition your batteries. This function can be performed by the charge controller which will cycle and "cook" the batteries. The operator will un-cap the batteries prior to the cycle and top-off any cells which have lost water. During conditioning, a great deal of hydrogen sulfide is produced and must be readily dissipated. Any sparks, motors, switches, pilot lights, etc.....can spark a disaster if you haven't factored in enough free-air and ventilation for the enclosure as well as considering potential ignition sources.

 

The system with which I'm most familiar uses lead/acid batteries used to power large earth-moving equipment. They weigh approximately 80 lbs. each.

 

Build a system which is easily "modular" - so you can change out parts as technology advances.


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#5 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 01:28 PM

I'll do my best to respond.

Thanks, You know me well enough to know how to read my text :)  I mean no disrespect when asking any questions, I just am a curious critter is all lol

 

I've built and worked on several systems - and they're all different due to the changes in technology as time has passed over the last 14 years. There's something new every day.

I noticed this from just reading about it over the last 3 yrs.. crazy lol like i said, head spinning at times.

 

That being said,

The systems I've wired use an Inverter to accept the charge inputs.

They inverted the charge inputs to ac as well as sending surplus energy through the charge controller - which regulates battery charge input - to the batteries for storage and later back-feed into the Inverter. The newer systems can combine all of these elements - making discussion complicated.

Ok great, that makes a lot of sense to me.   That's what I need right there, the reasoning behind the madness if you will :P

 

One question before I go further with this portion... have you used the MPPT charge controllers?  

I'm 100% using one of those and I believe that maybe kinda what your talking about when combining all the elements, no?  

 

 

 

The big batteries are worth it. Whatever you can manage to handle. 

Keep in mind your battery storage area. It must be well (very well) ventilated. You will need to periodically, on a schedule, condition your batteries. This function can be performed by the charge controller which will cycle and "cook" the batteries. The operator will un-cap the batteries prior to the cycle and top-off any cells which have lost water. During conditioning, a great deal of hydrogen sulfide is produced and must be readily dissipated. Any sparks, motors, switches, pilot lights, etc.....can spark a disaster if you haven't factored in enough free-air and ventilation for the enclosure as well as considering potential ignition sources.

I was considering these for sure, specifically fork lift batteries probably, or whatever I can get locally used, then recondition the whole thing, do all that jive. 

Was expecting to do the maintenance whenever it would be best or recommended for the batteries. 

The batteries are going to have their own building actually, its going to be the "solar shed".  So they will have amazing ventilation for sure as I want

to keep them at a stable temperature too.   I've read plenty of warnings on the off gassing.

 

 

 

That being said, that's looking at the DIY Tesla batteries.

The maintenance is only a fraction of the lead acid batteries. 

 

Plus. I'd by buying all dead laptop batteries from online, so I'd be recycling those batteries for my use, then any

dead cells I'd recycle accordingly.   Kinda "doing my part" thing with cleaning up after the throw away society.

Granted the forklift batteries would be recycled in the same manner, but these smaller batteries would take up a

hell lot less room and require like zero maintenance and don't off gas and they are just smarter batteries...80 lbs for 4000watters...

 

(excuse me if i sound like I'm picking sides here, the smaller batteries or forklift batteries, I'm not, I'm just

weighing the options, the pros and cons of each in order to determine what side I will have to pick for my start)

 

 

 

The system with which I'm most familiar uses lead/acid batteries used to power large earth-moving equipment. They weigh approximately 80 lbs. each.

What were the approximate dimensions of those 80lb batteries.  Thats something I haev been referring to because

some batteries will be the same aH but one will weigh 10-20 lbs less... when Is see that, I think the one brand cut some corners

to make a cheaper battery for more profit....

 

 

 

 

Build a system which is easily "modular" - so you can change out parts as technology advances.

This is A NUMBER ONE aspect of this system im making, it HAS to be 100% modular.

Thats one of my MUSTS when doing anything.

 

It Must be

Modular

Mobile

Practical(economical and efficiency go here too)

 

aside from nice disconnects between components for easy swap out, what

other aspects would you include to make it more modular.

 

 

I was thinking about getting more wattage then I require currently for sure, future growth.

Looking at inverters that have multiple power inputs to accept wind water or generator. For sure

one of these, because ill for sure have a generator to charge the batteries if I need to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by Il19z8rn4li1, 14 February 2016 - 01:35 PM.


#6 Heirloom

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 01:38 PM

look into lithium battery's for power storage.



#7 Myc

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 01:51 PM

Charge controllers: To be strait honest, someone else designed the system based upon their budget. I was provided with materials and engineered the wire sizes, over-current protection, conduit sizes, disconnect sizes, dc rating of equipment, etc....

 

So you're dead-on correct in buying quality disconnects in consideration of modular design. Square D, 600v rated equipment is also DC rated. Just trying to save you a nightmare hunting DC rated equipment. The 250v stuff is NOT rated for DC.

 

The batteries about which you asked are approximately 20 inches Long, 8 inches tall, and 8 inches wide and weigh roughly 80 lbs. each. They were racked-up on a custom welded, skeletal tube frame.

 

I gave some more thought to your comment about generating on cloudy days. You're correct. Even when covered by one of those cheapo blue tarps from big box store, the panels will output a voltage.

However, if your load exceeds your input, you'll still drain your batteries and need an alternate charging source (or a MONSTROUSLY HUGE solar array). This is based upon real-life observation of the working, off-grid system. 

I'm pretty fired-up myself and plan to attempt to bridge the gap between both worlds. I'm hoping the production version of the Tesla power wall does indeed have the automatic transfer technology. Placed ahead of a utility-grid inter-tie system, this device could "trick" the inverter into seeing a utility voltage and stay up during utility outages. Meanwhile the transfer would prevent voltages from going upstream to the utility grid for safety. This is my goal.

 

Next, I would take a traditional house system and separate convenience loads from "horse-power" loads - like ranges, dryers, HVAC, etc......into a separate load center which would tie into the grid (still). All convenience loads would be carried by the batteries - outlets in bedrooms, lighting, refrigerator (essential to me). This would present less of a drain and allow a smaller battery system to be used. 7Kw or 10Kw sounds like a lot - but once you put a straw in it and start sipping, it goes down quick. The transfer switch would sit between the horse-power load center and the convenience load center.

 

Using your setup as an example:

Sounds like the aeration pump is the essential part of your system. My stomach dropped when I read the story of the fish. I would have been crying my eyes out at that scene frantically doing everything I could.



#8 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 14 February 2016 - 02:35 PM

look into lithium battery's for power storage.

 

These are what I'm comparing to the conventional off grid power storage for possible replacement.

 

 

https://www.youtube....tion_2192684301

 

 

welp... so far from my searching, it looks like because of that video and tesla..

the DEAD laptop batteries are pricey lol... of course... bastids lol


Edited by Il19z8rn4li1, 14 February 2016 - 02:47 PM.


#9 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 03:42 PM

Ok.  so I have been doing some math here, quick rough and dirty math lol

 

 

So.   the batteries in laptop batteries from what I have been seeing, are more times

then not going to be these batteries here.

 

http://www.amazon.co...ASIN=B00NUI45AU

 

 

 

The 18650s, from what I have seen so far have this range of variable between battery brands. 

 

For amps i seen

2500mA - 3000mA(maybe some bigger ones

 

and voltages

3.5v - 3.7v (probably a few others out there) 

 

 

these are averages.

 

and for the most part I am seeing that if you buy used laptop batteries or used cordless drill batteries

your looking at around getting 9 cells in the laptop batteries and I dont know about the cordless drill ones,

I havent checked those yet.

 

 

But for laptop batteries, you can get the packs for around $10 a piece and you can expect to get

around 9 cells per pack and of those 9 at least 1-2 will be junk if the batteries are sold as BAD batteries,

if they are just OLD, you can get all nice batteries.

 

So this comes to around.. $10 / 7 good cells = roughly $1.42 per cell lets call it $1.50 per cell, might be able to

find them cheaper? 

 

 

I was thinking about running 7 cells in series making it 24.5v roughly

and having 10 banks of that in parallel to give me 20a roughly

giving me around 490 watts, i think?  for a 70 cell bank.

 

rough math gave me around 21 cent per watt.   so make it 25 cents, maybe add another 20 cents

for the wiring and soldering and other parts to put it together

 

45 cents per watt. ball park... 

 

now if going with these Lith Ions,

 

-I wont have to build a "serious" rack for these batteries to keep PEOPLE protected

-I dont have to worry about maintenance like refilling water, checking SP, and being sure they are vented

-I can insulate the solar shed even better regarding the venting aspect

-they take up less space and dont weigh as much as the lead acid batteries

-I learn a lot more about electricity with this project and my nephew can help me so he can learn too

-Im recycling things that people just throw away when its only like 10% broken.

 

 

 

 

now with the lead acid batteries I figure this out.

the battery i linked above, the

428aH 6v battery, with shipping is like 411 bucks.

roughly 2568 watts

and this comes out to around 16 cents a watt.

 

hum, 

 

thats 1/3 the cost of the lith ion batteries and I dont have to build them, they are already good

to go. 

 

if I get these 

 

-ill have maintenance with the batteries(would have to deal with that)

-A nice sturdy rack would have to be built so that people are protected from the battery terminals

-A ventilation system would have to be designed or some venting method implemented

-I would only require 2 of these batteries for my small setup right now.

-id still have a cool project to work on and have my nephew help out and learn some stuff.

-I could probably get away with quality insulation job on the shed even with these.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hum... so far im actually leaning toward the lead acid batteries for now, the ease of being able to be SETUP

right now and not have to worry about wiring up 600 cells with fuses and what not might be good for now.

Seems more practical after I have run some numbers.

 

 

But these numbers are saying that im paying 1.50 each cell, if i can get that down to say  a buck of 75 cents..

then we might be in the ball game. 



#10 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:06 PM

Ok after doing some more math.

 

If i can get the 18650 cells for around 25 cents a piece, which I am seeing more UP TO DATE videos still

showing people getting them at,

 

that would come to around 3 cent per WATT..... DEF worth going with the Lithium Ion batteries if im able to do this.

 

thats around 1/4 the price of the lead acids, but will require me having to do some local searching for

junk laptop batteries. 

 

First places im going to check are some local PC stores where people might drop off old batteries to

be recycled, well im trying to recycle them babies.   :) 

 

 

also, i might head to home depot and lows and check out the old lithium cordless drill battery packs and

see what I come up with.

 

 

at that kinda savings, it might be worth spending a day hunting down batteries. 



#11 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 10:34 AM

Wow...

 

[Direct Link]



#12 Heirloom

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Posted 27 March 2016 - 03:47 PM

I was talking about 12 volt lithium batteries the size of car batteries. they can last up to 10 years ,drained to zero and recharged.
NO LAP TOP BATTS: Large lithium batts car sized at the biggest.

They cost more but are light weight , great for camping or woking in the outback/ bush.

I have 6 volt electric car batts  12 v glass mat batts and they are heavy and can't be drained but to 50% at most and don't last nearly as long. I could not put them on a donkey or horse when I go camping or to work in the bush.

I have a friend who sells Lithium batts at his shop. I will at least get some pics if not make a trade for some as I have solar panels I used at my last house but since I moved have not hooked them up.

Most deep cycle will be ruined if you use them to jump start a vehicle but these lithium's will work as car/truck batts and deepcycle.

I will post some pics and stats on them on moday when his shop opens. I don't want you to buy his but buy local to avoid shipping costs.


Edited by Heirloom Spores, 27 March 2016 - 03:49 PM.


#13 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 11:32 AM

I was talking about 12 volt lithium batteries the size of car batteries. they can last up to 10 years ,drained to zero and recharged.
NO LAP TOP BATTS: Large lithium batts car sized at the biggest.

They cost more but are light weight , great for camping or woking in the outback/ bush.

I have 6 volt electric car batts  12 v glass mat batts and they are heavy and can't be drained but to 50% at most and don't last nearly as long. I could not put them on a donkey or horse when I go camping or to work in the bush.

I have a friend who sells Lithium batts at his shop. I will at least get some pics if not make a trade for some as I have solar panels I used at my last house but since I moved have not hooked them up.

Most deep cycle will be ruined if you use them to jump start a vehicle but these lithium's will work as car/truck batts and deepcycle.

I will post some pics and stats on them on moday when his shop opens. I don't want you to buy his but buy local to avoid shipping costs.

 

 

mind posting a link bro????


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#14 Heirloom

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 12:17 PM

just do a search for 12 volt lithium battery, many sizes.  They are sold widely now at battery shops to auto supply. No maintance needed as lead acid require. you can use half the number of batts because they actually need to be completely discharged to get the full life out of them.

I forgot to take my cam today but will set it out in the morning. My friend and I talk quite often , I have tried to get him to join but he is so busy with work and all the paperwork. He loves his mushrooms or rather mine, I give him.

I find this an exciting subject as I have solar panels myself BP 275 - 75 watt 2x4' panels and some other that are smaller but very useful. I also got a 5kw generator with a trailor to move everything with and a camper if I need to disappear.

the single crystal cells will last 80 years or longer of daily use.

another choice is the big forklift batteries they get rid of them when they won't work for 8  ghours straight, they are still able to serve as solar batts and last a very long time down side is the are huge and very heavy , my brother had one in my shed then sold it and it tool more than  4 strong guys to move it and they were barely able to do it , a fork lift is the best way to move then. These can be found localy to.

 


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#15 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 12:47 PM

just do a search for 12 volt lithium battery, many sizes.  They are sold widely now at battery shops to auto supply. No maintance needed as lead acid require. you can use half the number of batts because they actually need to be completely discharged to get the full life out of them.

I forgot to take my cam today but will set it out in the morning. My friend and I talk quite often , I have tried to get him to join but he is so busy with work and all the paperwork. He loves his mushrooms or rather mine, I give him.

I find this an exciting subject as I have solar panels myself BP 275 - 75 watt 2x4' panels and some other that are smaller but very useful. I also got a 5kw generator with a trailor to move everything with and a camper if I need to disappear.

the single crystal cells will last 80 years or longer of daily use.

another choice is the big forklift batteries they get rid of them when they won't work for 8  ghours straight, they are still able to serve as solar batts and last a very long time down side is the are huge and very heavy , my brother had one in my shed then sold it and it tool more than  4 strong guys to move it and they were barely able to do it , a fork lift is the best way to move then. These can be found localy to.

 

 

nice.

 

 

So you got no websites that sell high aH 12v lithium batteries? 

 

I did a quick search and only see low amp hours.

 

http://www.lithiumio...ion-battery.php

 

this is one i found.. at that price, I can get a lead acid battery and deal with the maintenance because

id have nearly 2-3 times the amount of storage and thats with only draining the batteries to 65-70%.

 

 

 

I searched for lithium the first time you mentioned them a few weeks ago.

Just interested to see what you go link and info wise...


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#16 Heirloom

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 02:05 PM

12 volt lithiuom ion battery first is 300 ah - $ 2999,99
Second is an 80 AH @ 869.99

These were found at www. Dragonflyenergy.net

I would look local for the best deals, RV centers Battery shops so on.

I could list them all day with specs but you know the AH you want and what you are willing to spend.

 Looking forward to your progress and anything you can share with us.

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#17 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 02:52 PM

thanks. thats all i was asking for was some linkage :)

 

I'm looking at around 2000ah in storage.


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#18 Heirloom

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 03:31 PM

www.BluePacific.com, I have found places in my area but more and more want to put together your system then let you build it, making it harder to get good prices.

I wish I bought the small windturbine I was offered buy a company. They sent me twice as many 75 watt solar panels the shipping invoice was missing and they were to be signed for, the ups guy forged my signature because I was not home.. I  could of kept them but called and authorized purchase.
I would look into a small wind turbine as they power at night . even little 400wt/hr units can help. minght power your microvave and lights in the morning  +.

The down side of a wind turbine is you cannot shut off the power if you generate to much ( common ) you need and electric water heater elements to burn off the excess  power though the best solution is to use those water heater elements is to heat water for hot water or hot water heat.

 I can buy a wind turbine for under $ 400n and use a tower built using schedule 40 plumbling steal.

 Others reading this need to know thatr you can use 12 volt for short distances to 48 volt Dc for longer distances. Wher I live I don't need special permits. while other 20 minutes away now need them for solar and wind. They built a lot and the city wants their cut  of the $$$

thank you for this topic I believe it will inspire others, peace dude

 

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#19 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 03:43 PM

wind turbine is already in the plans. 

 

And yea, you need a over load handler for the wind turbines.

 

But a water heater makes a lot more sense, especially since I got a bunch of fish.

Turbines dont cost to much at all, you can get a 1kw one for a few hundred bucks.

 

Even if it only produces 200 watts or even 100 watts... thats better then nothing during

night time.

 

good call.

 

 

 

 

regarding voltage and wire size and distance, im sure that anyone that ventures on this kinda

project is going to do some research and surely come across those very important details.

 

 

To add to it though.

 

VOLTAGE PUSHES AMPS(current)

 

CURRENT(amps) create resistance and heat

 

higher the current the thicker wire required.

 

So Low current and high voltage gives you ability to use

SMALLER WIRES and travel vast distances.

 

 

id recommend anyone making anything like this to make their battery bank at least 24v

and their panels 48v. 

youll save on the wiring.

 

Charge batteries then use invertor to get 120volt, this way you can have a nice 100ft radius around

your battery bank to pull sensible power from.


Edited by Il19z8rn4li1, 28 March 2016 - 03:51 PM.

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#20 Il19z8rn4li1

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 03:43 PM

these are the batteries im looking at getting.

 

 

http://www.solar-ele...1/6cs-17ps.html

 

 

4 of these ran in series to give me 24volt. 546amp.

13,104 watts. 

4585 watts usable

 

The max wattage im going to require is roughly 400watts

 

 

going to start with this then move forward from there.


Edited by Il19z8rn4li1, 28 March 2016 - 03:57 PM.

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