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Mono-Tubbing with Pans (Grow Log)


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#1 peacefrog

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 07:57 PM

Introduction:
I decided to do and share the way I prefer to grow pans from my isolated culture of Pan cyans Hawaiian. I needed to revive my slant and capture a few fresh prints anyway. This culture has proven to be the best producer I have ever isolated to date. I have done a lot of work to procure this culture, so I intend to keep it as long as I possibly can. So I take this culture out every 8-12 months to transfer to a new plate, then back to a new slant to keep it fresh and alive. This particular culture is 5 years old and has been rejuvenated 7 times. It still grows and produces the exact same way it did 5 years ago when I isolated it.

Agar Work:
The refrigerated culture slant from which I transferred to a new agar plate:
1. Slant 2.JPG

The plate from which I transferred to a fresh slant and used to inoculate my grain master:
2. Pure culture.jpg

Grain:
Grain master 24 hours after inoculating with a single small agar wedge
3. Grain Master.JPG

Grain master fully colonized in 6 days:
4. Grain Master colonized.JPG

I use a trick here with dung lovers and it seems to work really well. I use approximately half the amount of grain per jar and added to that, I place an equal amount of field capacity manure. This allows me to use lesser amounts of grain and agar for my grain master. Also, the tiny pieces of manure become many inoculation points when transferred to G2G jars. This small amount in the jar is capable of inoculating 10 other same size jars (in my case I use pints, as my pressure cooker is small and will not hold quarts). But in this case, I only inoculated 6. You will be surprised and think you are only getting a tiny bit in each jar. But after the shake and recovery, you will see those many tiny pieces of manure have spread very well in the G2G jars and will give fast colonization speeds.

G2G jars at 2 days after inoculation and ready for a shake:
5. G2G 2 days.JPG

G2G jars 3 days later and are fully colonized and ready to spawn:
6. G2G jars done.jpg

Bulk Substrate Prep:
My favorite bulk recipe to date with pans is 3 ingredients: manure, vermiculite and gypsum. Although, I have been using coir to supplement my subs as well recently with great results, I thought I would go back to my staple recipe for this grow. Plain wheat straw or a combination of straw/manure works very well too. I just prefer to use manure because I can get all I want for free:

Field composted horse manure I get from a local horse farm:
7. Horse Manure.JPG

Broken up, all pieces of wood and rocks are discarded making a very fluffy manure based sub:
8. Fluffed up.JPG

Gypsum added (I usually just eyeball it but a good rule of thumb is 5-10 percent per volume of sub.):
9. Gypsum added.JPG

Vermiculite added (Once again eyeballed but anywhere from ¼-1 part):
10. Verm added.JPG

All ingredients mixed together thoroughly and ready for the addition of water:
11. complete.JPG

Field capacity and ready for pasteurization:
12. IMG_0674.JPG

Spawning, Colonizing And Consolidation of Bulk Substrate:
Layering spawn and sub (you can also just pour all in and mix with clean hands):
13. 1.JPG 13. 2.JPG 13. 3.JPG 13. 4.JPG 13. 5.JPG 13. 6.JPG 13. 7.JPG

Tub fully colonized and allowed to consolidate for 4 days:
14. Tub Colonized.JPG

Casing Prep And Colonization:
My casing recipe for this size mono is as follows:
2 cups of Peat Moss:
15. Peat-casing.JPG

2 cups of Vermiculite:
16. Vermiculite-casing.JPG

2 tablespoons of gypsum:
17. Gypsum-casing.JPG

2 teaspoons of hydrated lime dissolved in a little water (I use hydrated lime pellets):
18. Lime-casing.JPG

All mixed together and brought to field capacity:
19. Feild Capacity- casing.JPG

Pasteurized for 90 minutes, allowed to cool and applied very thinly (~¼ inch) to the consolidated sub and put straight into fruiting mode:
20. Casing.JPG

This 50/50+ recipe produces a casing material that is right at or near neutral on the pH scale. This a little more than what is needed for this size tub, but I like to have extra for patching due to possible uneven colonization and in between flushes. Pans are tenaciously attached to the casing layer, which can leave large holes when you pick them. So I like to patch after I harvest each flush, but that is optional.

Colonized casing:
21. casing.jpg

Notice that the casing layer is not overrun and has colonized well. This is where the consolidation of the fully colonized sub makes a big difference. IME with pans, when I would case right after full colonization, the casing would be overtaken in a matter of days with thick mycelium, and would subsequently give me poor flushes, mostly from the sides. I began to notice that the best fruiting happened on the sections of the casing that looked like the above picture. Consolidation for 3-6 days solved this issue completely and I always do it now with the same results. Other pan growers have had great results not utilizing this technique, but I would highly recommend it to anyone. After all, it does not hurt a thing to do it.

Pin Set:
22. Pinset 1.JPG 23. Pin set (4).JPG 24. Pin set (2).JPG

Conclusion:
Matured and ready for harvest:
25. flush.JPG 26. flush 2.jpg 27. flush 3.JPG

Harvest pic:
28. Harvsest 1st flush.JPG

All in all a pretty good haul for a mini mono of pans IMO. Happy growing to all!

Edited by coorsmikey, 04 June 2016 - 08:24 PM.
Added tags for future organization

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#2 wharfrat

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 08:21 PM


All in all a pretty good haul for a mini mono of pans IMO. Happy growing to all!

Excellent write up, your hired! thank you my friend, this should help out a lot of people..


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#3 Tenderfoot

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 09:04 PM

:thumbs_up2:


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#4 Jrotten

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 01:02 AM

Maybe I didn't understand, what is your ratio of manure to Verm? Awesome wrote up.
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#5 truMushrooms

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 03:34 AM

Very nice write up, and awesome looking fruits man!

I'm gonna take you up on the advice regarding the consolidation of the sub before applying a casing. I recently cased a mono like a day after colonization and I'm getting the first pins but all in the sides, still looking forward to see how it turns out. 

Do you always do this consolidation before casing, regardless if it's pans or not?


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#6 peacefrog

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 04:09 AM

Thanks, wharfrat!

Maybe I didn't understand, what is your ratio of manure to Verm? Awesome wrote up.


I mostly eyeball it but anywhere from 1/4-1 part verm per manure. I.e. I sometimes go 50-50 with the ratio. The verm is not necessary, I just like it for its help with water retention and help with consistency of the manure based sub.

Very nice write up, and awesome looking fruits man!
I'm gonna take you up on the advice regarding the consolidation of the sub before applying a casing. I recently cased a mono like a day after colonization and I'm getting the first pins but all in the sides, still looking forward to see how it turns out. 
Do you always do this consolidation before casing, regardless if it's pans or not?


Nope just pans. No need to do it with cubes or with buttons. I colonize the casing normally covered with holes for GE until done then introduce fruiting parameters. I just noticed how aggressively pan mycelium would attack the casing layer.

Thanks for the kind words!
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#7 Microbe

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 04:24 AM

Amazing! That is excellent work!
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#8 Heirloom

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 11:04 AM

 A real nice how to grow Pans write up. Looks like you harvested a lot of fruits.

           namaste


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#9 Jrotten

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 01:38 PM



Thank you. I was just mixing a new substrate using field dried cowpoo. It has a pretty nice texture on its own similar to coir when dry. After bringing it to field capacity with the Verm I added a bit of coir just for the added fluffiness. I'm going to pasteurize the bulk for some cubes, but I think I will sterilize some in a grow bag for pans that I haven't gotten ready just yet and freez the bag until I'm ready to inoculate with another pan attempt.

Also and maybe I'm miss something but your "grain master" is actually a mix of manure and grain? Also it looks like you use a bare minimum for the master I'm assuming to speed colonization and get it to the spawn jars ASAP?

Edited by Jrotten, 18 May 2016 - 01:39 PM.

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#10 spacecake

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 03:03 PM

Very nice and simple ,easy to understand writeup...

Great results too ! :thumbs_up:


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#11 peacefrog

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 12:27 PM

Jr,

Yes it is a mixture of prepped grain and field capacity horse manure. I like it for my grain master because it allows me to use lesser amounts of grain and only 1 small agar wedge to get some quick results for my master. It's just something that I like to do with dung lovers for a little quicker growth and like said, using a lot less agar for my master. Several particles of manure will cling to the grain, but most will not. After colonization, the poo will break up pretty well for the most part and become many inoculation points beyond what you have from grain alone. It just fits my style of growing and i get all the poop I want for free so I like saving agar and grain!

Thanks, Heirloom and spacecake for the kind words. Pans are my favorite actives to work with these days.

Edited by peacefrog, 19 May 2016 - 12:30 PM.

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#12 Jrotten

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 03:27 PM

Well I'm inspired. Following several piece of advice I'm prepping 8 half pints to inoculate with pans. Should be inoculating tomorrow sometime.
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#13 peacefrog

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 05:06 PM

Good luck and good vibes on your up coming grow!
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#14 whitethumb

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 08:10 PM

nice buddy, glad to see you putting in pan work again!
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#15 MLBjammer

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Posted 20 May 2016 - 03:23 AM

Beautiful tutorial, easy to read (nice font!), wonderful pics, and a ton of great information.  

 

Of course, this is vault material.  I edited your title, BTW, adding another "b" and a dash.


Edited by MLBjammer, 20 May 2016 - 03:27 AM.

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#16 peacefrog

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Posted 20 May 2016 - 07:55 PM

Thanks as always, jammer. I got the font right this time but just had to screw something up lol.

And I'm always grateful and glad when you comment In my threads, whitethumb. Looks like you got some nice fruit from the PW's and the AA+. I am actually growing some AA+ on agar as we speak complements of Jammer for the free print (again thanks, bro).

2nd flush:
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

2nd flush harvest:
image.jpeg

And some printing going on:
image.jpeg

I am making several prints this go around for any members who would like one. Just pm me, and I'll be happy to send you one.
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#17 Roasty McToasty

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 06:31 PM

Badass thread peacefrog! This is great info for one trying to get some pans (like me). I have had bad luck in 3 or 4 attempts. Dirty prints, and cubes sold to me as pans (wtf). Trying a spore syring from a reputable source that has inoculated an lc. Lc has knocked up 4 test quarts of wbs soaked in casting tea water and hydrated to field capacity in same tea. This was 2 days ago, so fingers crossed. Thank you for this awesome info. I'll definitely put it to good use. Those are some nice looking trays btw. Nicely done mate!
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#18 Jrotten

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 07:26 PM

Final question (for now): what is the depth of that sub? With the layering it appears to be at least 2-3" but idk. I've always read to keep pan sub to 1" but that came without the impressive results documented in the same thread.
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#19 peacefrog

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 04:07 AM

Thanks, Roasty

Jr,

My depth is 2 inches for monos with pans. The tape I put on there guides me that exact depth while mixing up my sub before pasteurizing. And ask away, bro. That's what all of us are here for! For smaller trays I usually don't go above 1 inch, but with larger tubs, I always use the 2 inch depth. I wouldn't recommend going too much deeper with um, but have read other pan growers have had success with slightly deeper sub depths. IME 2 inches is perfect for um.
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#20 Microbe

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 10:48 AM

Im surprised these are doing thos great in a mono tub. This is one of the best if not thee best Panaeolus species mono tub grows i have ever seen.
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