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COB build for Cree CXB3070 instructional


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#1 Hash_Man

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Posted 24 December 2016 - 10:24 AM

COB Cree CXB 3070 instructional

I months ago I asked for help to build a COB grow light' so this is the step but step summery/instructional from that thread. To many people to mention that have helped but thanks bros.

Step by step style instructional of a build, including what Color wire to another and preferance of mounting the COB etc.

Parts list:

Cree CXB 3070 LED COB ... 30. - 55.00

Alpine Artic 11 fan heatsink combo
. . .16.00 dollars

Meanwell LPC 60-1400 driver . . 16.00

Small tube of thermo paste ..

soldering gun . . .

Soldier . .

Flux . . .

Kapton tape . . .

22 AWG wire (stranded or soild)

-------------------------------------------------
When you receive the Alpine Artic 11 heatsink and fan combo, be careful to not to touch the pre-applyed thermo paste on the underside of the heatsink,

you prolly will want to use it, for ease of build.
You may prefer to remove it and apply your own, read further to decide...
20160806_174249.jpg 20161224_090409.jpg 20161224_090518.jpg 20161224_090526.jpg

1. Attaching the COB to heatsink
using thermo paste. Remove the factory paste with rubbing alcohol, note: the alcohol will dull the finish so it that bothers you be careful to stay within the cob space perimeters.

If your using the Artic 11 pre-applyed thermo-paste skip to step 5.)

2. With masking tape mark out the area outside where the cob will set. to keep the paste from getting all over.

4. Install the COB to the heatsink.
Once you have the paste thinly applied.
(there is an holder by Ideal made for the CXB3070 but my opinion after installing one, you really need to have the two holes drilled precise.
20160806_144229.jpg 20161224_090526.jpg 20160807_110246.jpg 20160807_114636.jpg

5. it's much easier to use Kapton tape after you thinly apply the thermo-paste you just set on the COB and place a small weight on top the COB (careful not to scratch or dent or crack the COB) let it set up over night?

20160914_185347.jpg 20160917_100218-1-1.jpg 20160917_100129.jpg 20160917_100218-1-1.jpg 20160917_100129.jpg

Due to the Holidays, wiring the fan and wiring the driver will be coming up

Edited by Hash_Man, 24 December 2016 - 12:48 PM.

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#2 Hash_Man

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 02:54 PM

Fan wiring

20160623_190420.jpg
The Alpine Artic 11 is 0.16 Amps @ +12 V DC so you see you won't need a lot of mA (miliamps) a .5 - 1.0 amp 9 volt adapter will be plenty for a few CXB3070's
2016-12-26 09.47.03.jpg


We're going to use a 9 volt AC -DC wall adapter the fan is actually rated for 12 volts DC but 9volts is plenty and will add life to the fan.
There will be 4 different color wires coming from the fan, basically isolate the yellow an blue wires you won't use them, I just cut them back so there is no exposed wire to anything and I put a dab of silicone on the ends to assure no contact.
Note: you'll have to cut the wires out of the little harness, you'll see.
20160103_152739.jpg

When your wiring multiple fans a terminal block is better than twisting the wires together risking they come apart (see below) should be self explanatory. Basically put one hot lead (if you want to call 9 V DC hot) on one side and connect together all those terminals on that side and all the seperate fans wire individually on each of the screws on the opposite side then repeat for the negative coming from the 9 volt adapter.
Terninal block.png


Adaptor 9volt.png
you are going to cut off the 'plug' end of the adaptor.
On most these adaptors there is a little symbol giving a clue where your Positive end may be but really you may very well need a multi-meter the cheapest one you find will be fine . . mine was 6.99 at Northern tools, I know, I know Chinese shit hay I works for budget.
So you just want to find out the neg. and positive wires if your not familiar how to do this, here's a short instructional link below but I also provided a short step by step.
https://www.google.c...oid-metropcs-us

So yea after you remove the plug from the adaptor and carefully strip 3/4 in. of plastic shielding, I've found its pretty delicate wire (so hopefully you have done something like this before) but not impossible to do.

Set the multimeter to the 10 scale under DC and plug the adapter in a outlet, you then put you red test probe on one the of your exposed wires from your 9V DC adapter and the black on the opposite one, you reading should be +9.000 on the scale of 10 or there about if it's a neg (-) reading or if your using a non-digital meter that the needle indicator stays at 0, reverse your probes and should give you a positive reading so at that point you know the wire the red probe is on is the positive. Then wire up your terminal blocks as discribed earlier. If you are just twisting your wires, I'd sugest to solder the twisted connection and use the aproprate shrink wrap or at least wrap well with electrical tape. But note you really need to use the terminal blocks, they are not expensive.

Next up wiring the driver

Edited by Hash_Man, 26 December 2016 - 07:40 PM.

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#3 Hash_Man

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 05:19 PM

The driver is pretty simple but see how complacated I can make it sound.

On the driver there are just two wires in, and two wires out.

But first we need to run wires off the COB. On the Cree CXB3070 if you have used the Kapton tape method to attach the COB LED to the heatsink that I recommend, you want to locate the positive and negative points on the COB to soidler to. I think just the positive side is marked and its marked with the '+' symbol picture below.
$_58.JPG
So, I'll be honest I really don't wire color protocol so I just soidlered green wire to the negative side and black to the positive, I seen that sometimes their wiring black now for positive so I did that.

The drive has two wires on each side
20161227_162339.jpg

On the right side on the Meanwell LPC-60-1400 are fairly clearly marked with 'V+' for red positive so that makes sence and you'll attach/solder that to your wire going to your positive side of the COB, then the to your negative. Note: it's impossible not to mix these up or you'll blow the COB.
20161227_162353.jpg

On the left side is you wires for power. Now, there is a blue wire and a brown wire, which one do you think is going to the positive side of your wall plug .. wrong its the brown wire, so remember that. The reason is that these drivers are universal for different countries so just remember when wiring your plug.
If your attaching to a plug and wire from a cord you cut off some old blender or something it's polarized meaning it discerns positive and neutral here's some imiges that will help also you do know the fat prong on the plug is neutral.

FH08APR_LAMCOR_02.JPG FH08APR_LAMCOR_02.JPG FH08APR_LAMCOR_03.JPG FH08APR_LAMCOR_01.JPG

There you go, I'm sure I left out some details but hopefully this should get anout anyone through it.

Edited by Hash_Man, 30 December 2016 - 05:23 PM.

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#4 Heirloom Spores

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 11:50 AM

Thanks for posting this info.

What size of area would you suggest  and would you recommend LST or a scrog for grow style?
I already have some of the materials needed.

Thanks Hash for your time and effort to post this valuable info. I'm sure I had other questions but have forgotten now.



#5 happy4nic8r

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 12:36 PM

Pin it. Archive it. I remember this one, and the peltier chips the Heirloom turned me on to. 

 

out of likes, so a verbal LOVE is going to have to suffice!!


Edited by happy4nic8r, 31 December 2016 - 12:38 PM.

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#6 Hash_Man

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 05:44 PM

What size of area would you suggest

Any size, you just need more lights for bigger areas but I'd say 250 watts of COBs easily replaces 600 HID but way less electric usage.

would you recommend LST or a scrog for grow style?

I like single cola SOG's but it's not for everybody, so between SCROG and LST I'd say LST its more versatile less work and faster . .


Pin it. Archive it. I remember this one, and the peltier chips the Heirloom turned me on to.

Wow cool happy4nic8r 'thumbs'

I never seen the 'Peltier' thread till now I've been wanted to utilize those things to keep my root area cooler in this cab . . time to pick Heirlooms brain again
: )

Edited by Hash_Man, 31 December 2016 - 06:16 PM.

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#7 Heirloom Spores

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 06:09 PM

Sogs are good , thanks.


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#8 Heirloom Spores

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 07:03 PM

a few pics of some LED panels I have 1 is a 1 wt led  run at less than a watt per led. Only red and blue. I do not recommend these.  I wish I had saved my money.

the other is a multi  spectrum panel run at 1 watt per led  for a total of 500 watts a panel.
this one is still over priced . can do a grow , sog ,scrog or LST.  I have used it for vegging
I would not recommend this lamp for cost and grow ability.

I did not do enough research before buying these many years ago. I did not understand lighting .

I am just showing an expensive mistake I made in an effort to save on lighting costs.

I know that LEDS / COBS have improved  since I bought these.

I use several LEDs for house lighting and to light up my house plants.

I am going to use the 500 watt LED panel to do a 7.5 sqr ft, scrog to see how it performs .
I expect 6-8 ounces  or more.

I like trying different lighting to see what's best for me.

I had trouble taking pics as they showed my face in the reflection.

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by Heirloom Spores, 31 December 2016 - 07:07 PM.


#9 happy4nic8r

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 07:37 PM

skywatcher can muddle your face if it shows in a photo, btw. I found similar results with the peltier chips I experimented with.

 

They werent expensive, but they also didnt work as well as I would have liked. They heated great, but revers polarity cooling not so well.

 

Now I have a good bank of solar panels and batteries, and could have continued my experiments with my solar grow cube, but alas, many parts had to be left behind in my midnight move. 

 

I did get to salvage some, and will continue on, but technical difficulties have caused delays. Life has it's moments. 

 

Luckily I have a really fucking good life!!!


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#10 Heirloom Spores

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 09:15 PM

Thanks Happy. I think some peltier plates are better for cooling/ heating /making electricity. I bought one for heat buy they are not
effecient  when it comes to power consumption.



#11 Hash_Man

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 09:47 AM

I am going to use the 500 watt LED panel to do a 7.5 sqr ft, scrog to see how it performs .
I expect 6-8 ounces or more.l


Yea HS, I have a couple low watt blue/white panels that work great for mothers and early veg clones keeps the internodal spacing tight.
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